OKSC3

E-manage can't replace both the map and the maf, it has to have an air sorce signal to work with. Thats the problem I have running on my car right now, (Impreza) they are notorious for blowing MAF sensors, specially under boost, and we don't have a way to convert to a map sensor (Short of a HKS VPC), and just have to upgrade to an aftermarket MAF

Yeah, hadn't noticed it was a 430, thanks for pointing that out...

They don't scare me to bad, its not hard to get into a fender bender and do 60% or the value damage (or what ever your insurance company determines is totaled), and in that respect there probably isn't very many cars on the road that are 10 years old that haven't been bumped or tapped in some way. And 75% dosen't sound bad...

Local salvage yard... P.S. Never call it a junk yard, they get ticked!! hehe

In Oklahoma going 20mph over the speed limit is wreckless, and you can be charged with attempted manslaughter if someone is riding with you... Bleh

LMAO, Just install some Halogen track lighting...

Get an E-manage... More flexible...

A good turbo A/T shouldn't really burn out, unless your using a itty bitty turbo that spools quickly and dosen't make much power past 3k, lol... Funny that you would want to burn out at all... Ohh, and there is a secret, hold down on the brakes and floor it. Your front brakes hold alot more than the rear...

Ohhh yeah, its been salvaged since '98 (last 22k miles) so its been on the road for a few years... I sent an e-mail to the seller asking for specifics on damage (They probably won't have any) and if there is any sign of a jacked frame...

Found a nice '95 SC300 Manual with 53k Miles on it, Silver (platinum) with black leather interior, Naka Stereo, ect... But as the title states, its a salvaged title. They are asking right under $9000 for it, and it lists for 12,000 on the nada low side for a normal titled car in my area. So about $3k less than retail, is this a decent deal or should I be looking at another couple of grand less? Its a really sharp car, and I had planned on going the way of the dodo since I didn't want to spend around $10k on my next car for it cuts my budget thin on aftermarket upgrades, but the way I look at it is if the frame is straight and the body is clean I can N/A-T it like my last car and run the crap out of it. Kyle

Had relatives that I used to visit every summer that lived in Plano, always took Hebron exit off of 35 to get there. They move up to lake Kiowa though.

Pretty cheap...

Upping the compresion ratio can be done in alot of ways. If you want to stay NA I would deff look into getting some higher compression pistons, but that would probably be a custom job, and thus expensive. Supercharging is really good for low end torque, when you go FI you are pretty much just adding compression, both with turbo's and superchargers. But the problem is that with a turbo is that it dosen't add much below 3000rpm. You could probably run rods that were a tiny bit longer, it just all depends. I am not familiar with the backing on these cars as I am new to this platform, but with it having the same characteristics as the Supra you might be lucky and find someone who does offer higher compression parts. But most people try to lower it to run more boost. I would rather run 6psi of boost on a 10:1 ratio than run 10psi of boost on a 9:1 ratio. And I will beat him off the line, if not all the way through. There is big formulations that will show the effects of boost on higher compression and on lower compression, but a good place to get an idea is look at all the honda's. A honda running a 8:1 lowered compression ratio may make 325whp, but its is probably only making 175ft/lbs of torque, where as the same engine running a 10:1 will make less horsepower, say around 230whp, but it will also probably run around 235ft/lbs of torque. (Just general ideas) But along with running high compression with FI comes the risk of blowing gaskets, warping or cracking cylinder walls (Don't think that would be much a problem on our cars) breaking rods ect. Its all about running within your limits. If the limits on the stock 2jz with stock internals is 600whp don't shoot for 700whp, shoot for 550whp and have a car that is reliable, safe, properly tuned, and a monster. Sorry kind of got off track there! lol

Blew the internal valves on my PS pump on my eclipse, had to be over 2000rpms to get it to turn easily. lol

Check the FAQs and such in the pinned section, you can also go to http://www.autotrader.com/research/model_i...pl?restype=used

On a NA you will loose torque with loss of back pressure. And a turbo back should be properly sized based on displacement and such. I would be hisitant to run a 3inch exhaust on a 3.0 liter personally. Most likely a 2 1/2 or 2 3/4, of course I am a Torque Pimp personally, and I feel violated if I loose torque to make horsepower! hehe. But this is all pretty much personal opinion and how I like my vehicles to drive. I run 2 1/2 on my RS-T (2.5l) and it pulls so hard it makes your teeth hurt.

Looks like a handlaid job myself, specially since its sporting a tail light conversion.

Wasted spark could deffinitly be the problem, does it feel like it is hesitating (falls off) or does it feel like it just dosen't have the power it did at one time. If it actually hesitates change your plugs (cheap), and if you can afford some new plug wires go ahead and get them. But don't get suckered into getting the expensive MSD or Nology wires unless your running some serious mods (FI), you don't need fancy plug wires a new set of OEM's will provide more than enough room for the current you need, and they are loads cheaper. If it feels like the car has lost power overall do a DIY grounding kit, they seem to help alot, specially as a car gets some age on it. You would really be surprised, and I am sure someone here or on the supra forums has posted what you need and the steps to a DIY kit. Ohh, and you can replace your fuel filter, rather cheap also, and it dosen't hurt either. Just start with the things that it won't hurt to service anything and see if they aleviate your problems. Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter. Cheap, and need to be done after so long anyhow. Hope this helps, Kyle

Supercharging should add some, but a turbo won't add low end torque. You could always bump the compresion ratio, get domed pistons, a thinner head gasket (If available). Comp Ratio is where the torque is at.

Actually an Open, if he had a short his trunk would keep opening.

Too true, not like taking your engine out of your honda for an si engine. When going from a NA to a FI setup no matter how easy the engine fits you have to upgrade ALOT of support components to get it to work correctly. I say the cheapest that a swap could run would be around $7k to $8k. Doing a turbo setup on the stock engine would be cheaper if you took your time. I took six months (waiting for the best values I could find) getting all the parts needed to turbo my Impreza and ended up doing it for around $3k or less. But as JP said you can easily get in over your head doing a swap, its not just an engine out, engine in and your done. Kyle

Naw, on the Soarers there was a chip in the key that when you left the car it would lock, thats about all I know, I don't know if you got so close if it would unlock for you. I just read that its useless if you loose your key that came with the car and wondered if the USDM cars had them installed or not.

Was the Autolock feature used/available in any of the US SC's?

You should check ohms check negative to the chassis. Current flows from negative to positive, so if your having grounding problems you get no powa!

Its all up to you and what you want to do man. I am getting an Auto myself, and if it gets old I have the means (lift, multiple other cars to drive, anon) and access to the parts, ect. to install a manual. So I don't have to have a manual to be happy right off the bat. But if your going to end up hating it and wanting to sell it because you didn't get a manual I say hold out. And you also have to be willing to go to the ends of the US to get one if you want it bad. They can be hard to come by sometimes. Look at all the online sites, get websites/phone numbers for all the local dealers, specially the used dealerships. Let them know what you want and when they go to auction they will be looking for that exact car.