marlon08901

Did you ever find out what was wrong?? How did you fix it?

Update....so I started the car this morning and slowly drove it to the mechanic and I noticed that whatever speed I drove (did not drive it past 25mph), if I took my foot off the pedal the car would just keep going at the same speed until I applied the brakes.....just like when using the cruise control. The car is already 22 years olds so I figured there could be a possibility that the cruise control module under the driver's side panel is defective and/or perhaps the cruise control mechanism that controls the throttle when the cruise control is engaged is rusted out or somehow getting stuck. I mentioned it to my friend (mechanic) and he mentioned that over the weekend he had work on a car that had the same problem as mine and it was in fact their cruise control malfunctioning. He said he would check the car out today and let me know what he finds...I will keep you guys updated too.

Hello my friends....Let me first start by saying that my 90 LS400 is the best car I ever had and although I have changed a couple of parts here and there...I was never in the position where I would not feel safe in the car until yesterday. There may be 2 problems not sure if they are related or not. Yesterday morning I put gas in my car (I live in NJ so the gas attendant puts the gas in) a couple of minutes after driving while at a light the car stalled...I tried to restart and it sounded like it was not getting enough gas (I had ran out of gas before in other cars and that's how my lex sounded) after a couple of minutes it started and everything seemed normal until it did it 2 more times later in the day, one of the times while I was driving a bit slow but had not stopped, it stalled and I was able to pull over and park this time it did not start until 30mins later...could the gas attendant putting the wrong fuel cause this problem? (I usually make sure to tell the attendant to put premium fuel in but yesterday I don't think I did)....I had only put 1/2 a tank of gas at the station so I drove to a differ gas station and filled tank up and made sure it was premium fuel...car still gave me the "not enough gas" 2 more times the same day. The car had stalled in the past but it was due to a bad MAF sensor before I had replaced the MAF I had replaced the fuel pump so I don't think it's a fuel pump problem. Anyway, this brings me to my second problem, last night I drove about 20 miles to drop my daughter off at her mother's and everything seemed fine, however, on the way back when I took the ramp to merge in the one of the states' highways I pressed gas pedal and after I hit 60mph I took my foot of the gas but the car continued to increase speed without me pressing the accelerator....needless to say I tried to press on the brakes as hard as I could but the car only seemed to slow down a bit but not stop, that's when I pulled over to the shoulder, put the car in Neutral which made the engine surge all the way to 5000+ rpms...I immediately pulled the key of the ignition...I checked to make suret the floor mat was not pushing the gas pedal and it was not. Then, I waited a couple of minutes, tried to start the car and the engine surged again as if someone was pressing the gas pedal. I turned the car off had it sit for a while (about 20mins) and the car started just fine. Then I was was very careful observing my speed and everything was back to normal...but since it was late at night on the highway and there was no traffic I decided to increase my speed slowly to see if the car would speed up by itself again and as I hit the 60mph mark I felt it start to surge and pick up speed on it's on (my foot was no longer on the accelerator) I pulled over right away...did same procedure as before, at start up engine surged again, pulled key out, waited...turned car back on and drove home as slowly and carefully as I could. In the past I had had issues with the idle going up and down by itself but it was usually in the very low rpm and the problem was solved when I cleaned and replaced the bearing in the idle air control valve. So, knowing that it is not the IACV not the MAF sensor....any ideas what could possibly be? Anyone with a first gen. LS400 had this problem? I started the car up this morning, pressed the gas to see if the engine would surge on it's on but everything seem fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you! Oh...also I forgot to mentioned that I had cleaned the throtle body about 1 yr ago so I know it's in good shape and also checked the cable coming from the accelerator to make sure it was not getting stuck anywhere it seem to be in proper working order.

I have used aftermarket control arms in the past n they still work very well....i got them on ebay.

Cheers!

Sorry to hear what happened.....Here's the link for the tutorial on removing the front door panel. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

Yes! It can be done from under the car...just put the front end on jack stands n u will have enough room to work with. Im far from being a mechanic n even I was able to do it.....definately a DIY job in my opinion...I have 90 LS400

It is called....AIR CONTROL VALVE (ACV)....not to be confused with the IDDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE (IACV) which is mounted in the top/front part of the engine. Anyway, this AIR CONTROL VALVE (ACV) is the one bolted to the PS Pump and has the 2 small hoses connected to little nipples. If you follow the next link you will be able to read about a way you can take the ACV out and just plug the hole...(YES, this will eliminate the 2 small hoses, you can plug the hoses or just remove them and plug the nipples on top/middle of the engine and on the black air intake tube....where the hoses where connected). I removed these hoses and have not notice any difference on the way the power steering behaves and neither have many other members whom also removed the ACV. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/343856-all-in-one-power-steering-fix-s-solenoid-acv-plug-drain-flush-bleed-system-diy.html (SCROLL DOWN AND READ THE PART THAT SAYS; "Removal of ACV valve, and Plugging such valve with the ACV itself") I HOPE THIS HELPS!

Yeah...tons of sellers on ebay have the clear bumper lights...I like the mods man...but perhaps it would like a little better if you try to integrate some of red to the center console or maybe even the head rests. Keep up the good job!

Check out this link: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65123&st=0&p=413049entry413049 That is a post I made a while ago......after that posting I bought a MAF adapter and Cone Filter at Autozone and now it looks and sounds pretty good and I'm happy with the performance. I will be posting new pics of the finished project later this week.

Big Time! Thanks. Glad to help!

Go to this website; http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1991_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10L-AEPGKA_8401.6.html?hl=84930 check the part number you need and then (on the same site) change car to newer years and check those part numbers....if the part numbers are the same for lets say 91, 92, 93 and 94...then you know they are interchangable. Hope this helps.

Honestly, I am not sure as to what kind of CAI [Cold Air Induction] mod I'm going to do because I did not think about doing one until a I finished the intake tubing mod. There are a few options I have seen for DIY mods and short ram intakes....taking out the front cover of the air filter housing and keeping the stock filter..using a K&N filter instead of the stock filter (without front filter housing)...cuting holes in the front of the air filter housing to allow more air in...and removing the filter housing and using a adapter to install one of those cone shaped filters. Here are some pics of what I found..and their respective websites with more info. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/215535-air-intake-mod-ect-reprogram-power.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/56619-my-cold-air-intake-more-pictures-2.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/56619-my-cold-air-intake-more-pictures.html I think I will try using the adapter and the aftermarket filter and building some kind of heat shield...although, I did see an INJEN HEAT SHIELD on ebay but I don't think I wanna pay $60 when it does not even include the filter. Anyhow, for anyone interested here's a picture and the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Injen-AIR-FILTER-HEAT-SHIELD-lexus-LS400-LS-400-90-2000-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563d6be4c8QQitemZ370397668552QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Well, yes...the noise reduction part was what I first thought of when I saw the resonator but I was not aware of any potential power lost. I did some quick research (funny enough when I googled ls400 Helmholtz resonator...this was the first link they showed)anyways, what I read made sense. Basically, air is pulled in from outside then pushed into the resonator which will incrase the pressure of this air before it exits the resonator and gets sucked into the throtle body "When air is forced into a cavity, the pressure inside increases. When the external force pushing the air into the cavity is removed, the higher-pressure air inside will flow out." therefore, giving more power..in the low to medium range. Sounds reasonable, however, as you mentioned, I have not experienced enough power lost to notice...hopefully, if I did lose any power it will be compensated by the cold-air-intake mod coming up. We shall see!

So...that's what it is called?...lol Well, I was not sure what the purpose of it was ... but I was hoping it would not affect performance if taken out....could you tell me about it? I eliminated the resonator box attached to the black intake tubing going into the throtle body and honestly, I don't feel that I have lost any power at all....was I supposed to? In the couple of days since this mod I have used the car mostly for in town driving and just took in on the highway a couple of times and all I can say is that so far I have not felt any difference...the car still drives like a beast! I did not think this mod would make much difference anyway, except maybe for looks...and it was not expensive at all...I only spend about $45...it was just to see if the mod could be done inexpensively and with easy to find parts and now we all know it can be done. I am going to fill her up tomorrow morning and measure to see if there are any changes in fuel consuption....just to see if anything changed but I doubt it. I guess next I will do a short air intake to let more air come in and maybe then I will gain some horsepower like some members claim....however, I will be keeping any stock parts I take out so I can put them back again if I'm not happy with the changes.

Suspence is over! lol B)

Hello Everyone - I was reading through the forums about installing cold air intakes and someone asked about how to replace the black plactic air intake tubing that comes in our 1st gen. LS400s.....which intrigued me and after finding no responses to this question...I decided to see if it could be done with parts available at the local autozone by my house. Interestingly enough I was able to do the mod and it was not even that hard. I know that we should not mess with our cars because they already have everything they need to run nice and smooth and we love them for it! Nevertheless, I just wanted to have some fun and feel like a teenager playing with my car (have good memories about that)...anyways, here's what I did. 1- Loosen C-Clamps holding the air intake to throtle body and air intake to MAF sensor housing. 2- Diconect the plug from the MAF sensor (you can try doing it without disconecting the MAF..I had to because I replaced my MAF sensor the same day) 3- Remove air filter housing and MAF sensor housing (remove 2 10mm bolts attaching unit to car body and theres is also a bolt holding air filter housing to car body on top of headlight) 4- Remove Air Intake Surge Tank (remove 2 10mm bolts attaching unit to engine) Use 45 degree intake elbow attach it to 90 degree elbow intake tube (purchased at autozone) Using 2 - 3" red rubber couplers attach end of 90 degree intake tube to throtle body and 45 degree intake tube's end to the metal MAF sensor housing. As you will see in the pictures bellow the angles worked out perfectly...the only problem was that there was no attachement on the tubing to connect the vacuum hose from the original intake tube to the Idle Air Control Valve...therefore, I drilled a 3/4" hole on the top of one of the tubes and using a PCV elbow and a PCV groumet I made a connection on intake tube for the vacuum hose NOT FINISH-----WIll FINISH WHEN I GET HOME...MUST LEAVE WORK NOW! -- OK..I am back! SO...as I was saying I used the above pictured PCV elbow and PCV groumet and both part made a pretty solid, leak proof connection. VERY IMPORTANT - as you know, there is a smaller hose attached to the OEM plastic intake body, which goes to the air control valve (ACV) under the Power Steering Pump -- in my car this valve had been removed due to power steering fluid leaking into the intake --but that's another story....the point is = for this modification you can either repeat the steps above and make smaller connection for smaller hose OR you can disconnect hose and just plug the hole in the ACV valve where the hose used to be. It's up to you! Ok..so now just put MAF hosing/air filter back together, plug in your MAF sensor...secure all your C-Clamps and you are DONE! Ok now a couple of point I will like to make...IF YOU TRY THIS..YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK! I DID PURCHASE A COPLE OF INTAKE TUBES AT DIFFERENT ANGLES AND AFTER SOME EXPERIMENTATION THE ONES USED WERE THE ONES THAT BEST MATCHED MY PARTICULAR APPLICATION (I RETURNED THE REST)...ALSO THE TUBING AND COUPLERS I USED ARE 3" IN DIAMETER....THE END OF THE THROTLE BODY AND THE END OF THE MAF HOUSING ARE ABOUT 3 1/4" SO YOU NEED TO STRETCH THE COUPLERS A BIT. YOU COULD PROBABLY BUY 3 1/2" OR EVEN 4" IT'S UP TO YOU...I BOUGHT 3" BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT THEY HAD IN STOCK AT THE STORE. HERE ARE SOME PICS WITH THE 45 DEGREE ANGLE TUBE REVERSED (SO THAT VACUUM HOSE ATTACHES FROM THE BOTTOM) JUST A DIFFERENT OPTION IN CASE YOU WANT A "CLEANER" LOOK. WHAT DO YOU THINK? BEFORE ALSO - SOME PICTURES USED IN THIS POSTING WERE ORIGINALLY POSTED IN A Article by Curt Oberg (1UZFE Throttle Body Cleaning)which you can find here: http://www.lextreme.com/tb.htm AFTER M07nH

Hey guys....I have read a couple of postings on wanting to find replacement filter for the EGR Vacuum Modulator but as we know the dealer won't sell just the filter. So as someone suggested, I went to the local autoparts store bought a universal filter material and cut it out to replace the filter in the EGR V. Modulator. Here's what I did: 1 - Remove modulator cover 2 - Remove filter 3 - Inspect filter If not too dirty you may want to use some compressed air to clean it or like me, you can just replace it. 4 - Buy aftermarket filter similar to original filter in texture and thickness this is what I used (form autozone) 5 - Cut aftermarket filter to shape 6 - Replace old filter with new and you are DONE! Fairly simple to do and not expensive at all!

HEY GUYS...I JUST REALIZED THIS WAS POSTED BLANK!....NOT SURE WHY NOR HOW TO DELETE THIS POSTING I APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVENIENCE....ALL CONTENT INTENDED TO BE HERE IS POSTED AS "Replacing The Egr Vacuum Modulator Filter" here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65122 IF YOU KNOW HOW TO DELETE A POSTING LET ME KNOW SO PEOPLE DON'T KEEP READING THIS! PLEASE!

I read a couple of articles on code 13 and I think this link may help you out: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42064 As for the code 31....I replaced my MAF and the code...along with all related problems went away.

You can easily find a used one on ebay: http://shop.ebay.com...-All-Categories The amplifier is located on the left hand side of the fuel tank in the trunk...it's easy to get to. This amp powers the subwoofer only...all other speakers are powered by the built-in amp in the head unit. I would beware of ebay used electronics, The seller may have had the same problem as you. I would only purchase a refurbished amp if I were you. Sound advice I bought a used amp on e-bay over a year ago..and it still works perfectly!...but yes, reburbished and with some kind of warranty would be a great choice!

You can easily find a used one on ebay: http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=ls400+amplifier&_sacat=See-All-Categories The amplifier is located on the left hand side of the fuel tank in the trunk...it's easy to get to. This amp powers the subwoofer only...all other speakers are powered by the built-in amp in the head unit.

I have a 90 LS400 with 160,000....I did Seafoam last year before I changed my plugs. The SeaFoam cleaned up the system and did not cause any problems. I'll be using SeaFoam again this weekend but now I'll put it in the crankcase before I change the oil and I'll put the rest in the gas tank.

Thank you for you quick responses RDM - Yes...the ACV has been removed and fitted with a plug, also I made sure both ports were capped. I will try SeaFoam tomorrow and see what happens. As for the steering, I agree with you that it would take a while for the P/S fluid to negatively affect the steering but I was hoping that was the cause so it could be easily fixed with a fluid flush. I will still flush the P/S fluid out, double check for any trapped air and if nothing happens then send the pump back and get a replacement...(good thing it came with a 2 yr. waranty!) although I trusted it would be a good pump since they mentioned; - All their Units Are 100% Hydraulically Tested And Put Out Factory Recommended Pressures Before Shipping!!!. Is there a way check if the pump is working properly? CuriousB - I'll clean the throttle body and IACV after I do the SeaFoam (I am sure they need some very good cleaning)....while I wait the SeaFoam to work and start the car again. I'll keep you posted on any changes.

Hello! Here's the situation...I had power steering fluid leaking from the P/S pump seal and also lots of white bluish smoke coming out of the tail pipes at start up....ok, that's a common problem and tons of info about it in the forums. The problem is that, before I had the pump replaced the car ran great and steering was nice and easy at the right fluid level, however, after the mechanic replaced the pump...he put it P/S fluid and NOT A/T fluid...to make matters worse car started to blow out TONS of smoke all the time and not just at start up plus engine started to hesitate as if there was a vacumm leak (I checked all connections and did not see any missing or defective vacumm lines). That's when I read about the Air Control Valve possibly causing fluid to leak into the intake and since it was a new pump..I am guessing the amount of pressure and fluid into the intake was a lot more. Therefore, I told the mechanic to take the ACV and that immediately stopped the smoke. But the hesitation in the engine continues specialy when I am stopped at a light/stop sign, it feels like the car is going to stall....unless I put the car in parked and there's no hesitation there. Also, the steering, although is not too hard, it is definately not as easy as it was before the pump replacement. I took the P/S fluid out of the reservoir and added A/T fluid...but only made a very small improvement in the steering. My questions - could the excesive amount of fluid sucked into the intake manifold be clogging up something and cousing the hesitation in the car? If so, what would you recommend I do? As I mentioned before, the engine ran great before the pump replacement so I am assuming is not the fuel related but the posibility of a faulty fuel pump and/or EGR valve came to mind.. I was thinking of using SeaFoam to clean the system. - would using Power Steering Fluid instead of Automatic Trasmission Fluid be causing the hard steering? I am assuming it is and I'll be flushing the system soon but I want to know if this has happened to anyone else. Or perhaps the new (rebult) pump is somehow defective? Please let me know what you guys think......thank you!