marlon08901

Glad I could be of some sort of help! ;) Best of luck with your project and don't forget to come back and let us know how it all worked out for you! By the way, what country do the letters VN represent? I am really bad in geography!!! The only countries I can think of that have the letters V and N in it are Venezuela and Vietnam...but I am sure there are probably more....Anyway...once again...GOOD LUCK!!!

I was too when I first thought about doing installing the alarm myself but then I figured....if I don't disconnect any harnesses and test every wire before I tap into it.....I should be ok. And thankfully, it all turned out good! B)

Glad to be of help!.....Please keep us posted on your New Alarm purchase----brand/features/price range---so other members can benefit B)

THANKS FOR THE COMMENT BUT I DON'T THINK A $600 ALARM SYSTEM IS WHAT I NEED. I FEEL THAT SOMETIMES AN EXPENSIVE ALARM IS JUST THAT! -AN EXPENSIVE ALARM. JUST BECAUSE IT COSTS MORE MONEY DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN IT IS BETTER---BUT I GUESS YOU WILL FEEL MORE SECURE BECAUSE YOU SPENT SO MUCH MONEY. NEVERTHELESS, FOR A $6OO ALARM YOU ARE PAYING FOR THE BRAND NAME AND UNLESS YOU DID IT YOURSELF HALF IF NOT MORE OF THAT MONEY IS FOR THE INSTALLATION. AND REMEMBER THAN EVEN THE BEST ALARM IN THE WORLD MAY CAUSE YOU PROBLEMS IF IS NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY.

Sorry to hear about your break-in :( I don't know about 96' but in my 90' the factory alarm system only activates when the hood/trunk or door are opened. It does not have any other kind of protection such as glass break, microwave or shock sensors. I think it was designed more as just a "anti-theft" system - to discourage would be thiefts by sounding the horn and disabling the ignition....not to protect the insides of the car. I have just recently installed an aftermarket alarm/remote start in my car and it does have a shock sensor but not a glass break sensor...so I may just buy the extra sensor and try to incorporated in my new system. In your case even if you had an aftermarket alarm with no glass break sensor....someone could still have broken into your car go in through the window and take whatever they wanted without setting the alarm....unless your shock sensor is set to super sensitive but then it would just go off everytime a car drove by so most of the time it is set towards a medium levels no so sensitive.....that's why they have glass break sensors. You may even want to go all the way and get a microwave sensor too, that way even with the windows open the alarm will sound if someone even puts their hand in through the window. Now, not all alarm systems have these capabilities, so check with the local alarm shop to see what options you have...I would recommend brands such as Clifford and Viper.

Aaron-- Trunk opener/Trunk Release - negative- at trunk release switch! (I used the blue wire in the top 2wire harness) there's a picuture of it...posted above..you must have missed it. Dome light /Door trigger - negative - red/white - third plug from left to right at the driver's side kick panel - there's a picuture of it...posted above..you must have missed it. I used this wire for my aftermarket alarm so if anyone opens the doors the alarm will sound. If you are installing a "REMOTE START" with NO alarm features you may not need to use this wire as a door trigger. If your REMOTE START has a wire that tells you, it needs to be connected to the "Dome light" this is the wire you would need to use. It has a NEGATIVE charge when the doors are open. Therefore, it will need a negative charge from your system to turn the "dome" light "on" when you start your car. Defrost upon remote start - make sure that you climate control unit is left "on" and also the defroster is "on" when you turn the car off. This way when the car starts the "heater" and the "defroster" will work. There was no extra wire from my alarm for this "defrost" wire. Nor did I see any "defrost" wire in the guides...I'm not sure if it exists! Hope this could help!

OK....MY REMOTE START/SECURITY SYSTEM/KEYLESS ENTRY/TRUNK POPPER--HAS OFFICIALLY BEEN INSTALLED BY MYSELF WITH SOME HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT FROM MEMBERS OF THIS FORUM! SYSTEM INSTALLED: READY REMOTE (DESIGNTECH) MODEL # 20092 TIME SPENT: 4HRS INCLUDING PICTURES + 1HR SPENT...TO RECONFIGURE DOOR LOCKS-(I WILL EXPLAIN LATER) PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THIS IS MY FIRST ALARM INSTALL!! OK...SO HERE WE GO: TOOLS I USED: PHILIPS HEAD SCREW DRIVER 10MM SOCKET/WRENCH ELECTRICAL TAPE WIRE TIE DRILL-FOR HOOD PIN SWITCH -YOU MAY CHOOSE TO USE THE SAME WIRE THAT THE FACTORY ANTI-THEFT USES. WIRE SPLITTER (TO SPLIT WIRE "WITHOUT" CUTTING IN IN HALF) VEHICLE WIRING INFORMATION - I WILL TELL YOU COLORS OF THE WIRES I USED--BUT PLEASE TEST THEM!! MULTIMETER - OR SOMETHING TO MEASURE/TEST THE POLARITY OF THE WIRES. SOLDER/SOLDERING IRON - I ONLY USED IT ON THE MAIN WIRES! -POWER/IGNITION ETC.. I started by removing the bottom half of the underdash held in place by 5 philips head screws. 3 on top (pictured) 2 at the bottom. after taking all the screws out....unplug the ECU diagnostic plug (at least I think that' what it is) and the courtesy light (pictured) by turning counterclock wise and pulling them out. Once you take the bottom of the underdash you will discover 2 10mm screws at each end of the bottom of the upper half of the undersdash. Take them out! The upper half is held in place by 6 10mm screws 2 at the bottom and 4 at the top. BEFORE REMOVING THE TOP 4 SCREWS UNSCREW THE HOOD RELEASE WIRE- It's held in place by 2 philips head screws-take them out and then release the wire. The 4 top screws are located 2...right bellow the parking brake release handle and the other 2 are bellow the ignition/lock cylinder (you need to pry out the plastic piece sounding the key switch)--please see pictures. BEFORE--pulling this part out....pull out what looks like a little vacum hose and a 2-wire white harness from behind this section. AND also take out the plastic piece where the Gas and Trunk release switch are mounted, which is held in place by 2 philips head srews. Now, remove the plastic air vent tube and the plastic trim piece at the bottom of the the diver's side door frame. OK HERE COMES THE FUN PART!!! behind the lock cylinder, right next to where the air vent tubing was......you will find a black harness with thick wires, this is your main harness. Notice that the colors of some of the wires change from one end of the harness to the other...for this specific install I used the ones on the bottom of the harness (see pic)... The colors, polarity and functions are as follows: 12V POWER - positive - WHITE/BLUE START - positive - RED/SILVER DOTS * IGNITION 1- positive - BLACK/ORANGE * IGNITION 2 - positive - BLACK/YELLOW ** ACCESSORY - positive - PINK/BLUE * My aftermarket system came with a starter kill-wire (not even I with the key can start the car if the system is armed) a relay was used and the start & Ignition1 wires were used. This is an optional feature that I did not need to install but I choose to. Some aftermarket systems do not have this feature and even if it does you don't have to use it if you don't want to. Instructions on how to do do this should be included the manual that came with your system. ** Although most aftermarket alarms do have a positive (+) Ignition2 wire output - The Ignition 2 wire from my aftermarket system was negative (-) so I had to use a relay to turn it into a positive (+) The manual your aftermarket system came with should tell you if you need a relay or not and also how to use it. If you need more info let me know. The following 2 wires (Horn and Hood pin) I will tell you what the wiring guide says about them but I did not use them nor tested them so you will have to that yourself. I'll tell you why I chose not to use them later. The colors, polarity and functions and location acording to most wiring guides I found are as follows: Horn - negative - green/red - steering column The following picture is of the harness to the right side of the steering column where most wiring guides will tell you the Horn wire is...however, they said the same thing about the parking light wire and I could not find that wire here...I'll show you where I found it later. Also, please note the the Horn wire is NEGATIVE and my system has a POSITIVE horn wire output so if I wanted to use the horn I would have to use a relay AGAIN.... and I did not have any more relays at hand, besides I do like the sound that the siren that came with the system has so I decided to run a wire to the front engine compartment for the siren. I'll show you how later. Hood pin - negative - green/white - anti-theft module The following pictures is of the harnesses at the anti-theft module. The anti-theft module is located at the top left hand side corner under the driver's side dash behind the fuse box. I chose not to use this wire because it seemed very thin and hard to get to and I was not comfortable stripping the plastic piece and attaching another wire to it (you can use wire attachement clips but I did not have any) besides, I was already runnig a wire to the engine compartment for the siren so I decided to run the wire for the hood pin too! By the way, you may run the TACH wire at the same time too (if you choose the tach options on your starter). OK...since I was talking about running wires to the engine compartment here is how I did it. There is a plastic groumet under the carpet right by where the brake pedal is so I took the groument out, inserted a long screw driver all the way to under the car (there is another plastic groumet there)....attached 2 wires to it and pulled it back up-inside the car. I ran the wires from under the car along the side under a metal heatshield plate all the way up by the brake fluid container(SEE PICS). Make sure to insulate your wires so they won't be affected by the heat....I used tape around the wires and also wire loom. Once the wires are in the engine compartment I plug one of them to the positive side of my siren, screw the siren inplace and grounded it. The other wire I ran to where I had drilled and installed my hood pin switch and connected it there. Inside the car I connected the wire from the siren to the POSITIVE siren output from my aftermarket system and connected the Hood pin switch to the NEGATIVE hood pin switch input in my aftermarket system. I DID NOT USE A TACH WIRE! Ok...NOW WE ARE WORKING INSIDE THE CAR AGAIN......WE ARE HALF WAY THERE!! I NEED A DRINK-- Some of the following wires are in the locations most wiring guides (I looked at) indicated, some are not! ---I will indicate which ones the wiring guides I looked at were wrong about! THESE ARE THE PLUGS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL! The following are the wires and locations I used! The colors, polarity functions and location I USED are as follows: Trunk Release - negative- at trunk release switch! (I used the blue wire in the top 2wire harness) Parkinglight - positive - green/sliver dots - wire bunch coming out from fuse panel -guides were wrong about his one! Door trigger - negative - red/white - third plug from left to right at the driver's side kick panel - guides were right! Brake - positive - green/white - second plug at the driver's kick panel (gray plug) - guides were right! OK--THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PLEASE READ CAREFUL!!! ONCE AGAIN...THIS IS BASED ON MY INSTALLATION AND MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE....WIRING GUIDES MAY DIFFER FROM WHAT I DID! CHECK YOUR MANUAL AND TEST ALL WIRES!! I found 5 wires that have to do with the lock/unlock and anti-theft system arm/disarm. I only tested 3 at first but then find out I needed to test more!! BY THE WAY...WE HAVE NEGATIVE DOOR LOCKS! There is a BLUE harness on the diver's side kick panel (next to a small white one) - They both hold all the wires coming into the car from the driver's side door. (I circled the wires I used in my final installation...not circled is the green/black "unlock" wire) On this BLUE plug you will find a Green/black wire - this is the unlock wire using the control switch - it showed no changes when using the key. (This were the first wires I tested and they seemed right so I used them first--did not test any more.) Green/red wire - this is the lock wire using the control switch - it showed no changes when using the key. (This were the first wires I tested and they seemed right so I used them first-did not test any more.) Grenn/yellow wire - this wire is the lock wire using the key and the FACTORY ALARM "ARM" - it showed no changes when using the switch. Green wire - this is the FACTORY ALARM DISARM no unlock although it shows a change when unlocking the door with the key--no changes when unlocking the door with the switch. OK...HERE'S WHERE IT GET'S TRICKY. There is a green wire in the 4th harness at the driver's kick panel... ALL guides told me it was the FACORY ALARM DISARM....which it is a FACTORY ALARM "DISARM" BUT ALSO "UNLOCKS" THE DOORS (I did not know that part at first..I thought it was only the "disarm" wire---THEY BOTH (GREEN WIRES) TESTED THE SAME EXCEPT WHEN GIVEN A NEGATIVE CHARGE ONLY ONE OF THEM OPENS THE DOORS). WHAT DOES THIS ALL MEAN??....LET ME EXPLAIN AND LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES. At first I used the Green/black (unlock) and the green/red (lock)---and connected my aftermarket system's ->FACTORY ALARM "DISARM" and "UNLOCK" wire to the green wire at the bottom of the kick panel like the manual and wiring guides told me to. SO---I could lock and unlock the car with the new remote and I can get the car starter--THE PROBLEM was that when I started the car the door would "unlock" and even though the aftermarket alarm was still arm....I could open the door and the alarm would go off (siren will sound) and I could not start my car with the key...but I could have stolen things from inside the car and run away before anyone would know....SO---you do NOT need the doors unlock when the car starts!---THE SOLUTION connected the aftermarket FACTORY ALARM "DISARM" wire to the green wire at the BLUE plug-NOT at the white plug at the bottom-THEY BOTH (GREEN WIRES) TESTED THE SAME EXCEPT WHEN GIVEN A NEGATIVE CHARGE ONLY ONE OF THEM OPENS THE DOORS). SO--I had my lock/unlock and I could start the car without the doors being open but then I thought....hmm! why is the factory alarm not arming??? I thought maybe it is not supposed to work when the aftermarket alarm is on, and I thought I was done but something still did not make sense. What is the reason the FACTORY ALARM is not on?? There has to be a logical explanation...so I posted another topic and some people told me their factory alarm did not work in conjunction with the aftermarket one. But, someone told me that they could still arm the FACTORY ALARM with their remote key. I don't have a button on my key but I knew that the FACTORY ALARM used to arm itself after I press the lock botton and close the door, so....I decided to test more wires and see which one tested as "lock" with the key...that's how I came across the green/yellow "lock" wire. So I disconnected my "lock" wire from the green/red "lock" wire and connected it to the green/yellow "lock" wire. NOW----I CAN START THE CAR WITHOUT ANY DOORS BEING OPEN. I CAN USE THE KEYLESS ENTRY AND WHEN I LOCK THE DOORS/ARM THE SYSTEM WITH MY REMOTE....BOTH ALARM ACTIVATE! AND WHEN I PRESS THE UNLOCK OR DISARM THE AFTERMARKET SYSTEM....BOTH SYSTEMS DISARM! IN CONCLUSION: THE HARDEST PART WAS DEFINATELY....TROUBLESHOOTING SOME ISSUES AT THE END! ALL THE FEATURES OF MY REMOTE START WORK PERFECTLY AND I AM HAPPY WITH IT. OK SO HERE'S THE DEAL: IF YOU WANT TO USE AFTERMARKET ALARM SYSTEM ONLY...USE: GREEN WIRE AT BLUE PLUG FOR FACTORY ALARM DISARM -NO UNLOCK GREEN/RED AT BLUE PLUG FOR LOCK -FACTORY ALARM WILL NOT ARM! GREEN/BLACK WIRE AT BLUE PLUG FOR -UNLOCK IF YOU WANT TO USE BOTH ALARM SYSTEMS...USE: GREEN WIRE AT BLUE PLUG FOR FACTORY ALARM DISARM -NO UNLOCK GREEN/YELLOW AT BLUE PLUG FOR FACTORY ALARM ARM-LOCK GREEN/BLACK WIRE AT BLUE PLUG FOR -UNLOCK I HOPE THESE PICTURES AND INSTRUCTIONS MAKE SENSE AND WAS OF HELP TO SOME OF YOU! SORRY I HAD TO GO ON AND ON BUT I FIGURED IT'S GOOD TO LET YOU KNOW THE PROBLEMS I ENCOUNTERED! Disclaimer *All INFORMATION PROVIDED TO YOU WAS BASED IN MY OWN EXPERIENCE......I AM NO EXPERT (FAR FROM IT) AND CANNOT BE BLAMED FOR ANY MISTAKES/DAMAGES CAUSED BY MIS USE/ MISINTERPRETATION OR FAILURE TO DO YOUR OWN WIRE TESTING...THIS INFORMATION IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE USED AS A GUIDE. THE ALARM SYSTEM WAS INSTALLED IN MY OWN 1990 LEXUS LS 400. READ YOUR INSTALLATION MANUAL FULLY BEFORE TRYING TO INSTALL ANYTHING IN YOUR CAR AND USE WIRING GUIDES FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES TO COMPARE.

OK....MY REMOTE START/SECURITY SYSTEM/KEYLESS ENTRY/TRUNK POPPER--HAS OFFICIALLY BEEN INSTALLED BY MYSELF WITH SOME HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT FROM YOU! I tried writing it right here but I don't know how to add pictures unless I start a new topic so......FOR DETAILED INFORMATION OF MY INSTALL, INCLUDING PICTURES!! Go to my TOPIC titled: "1990 LS REMOTE START/ALARM INSTALLATION"! Hint: "click" on my name <-to the left.."click" on member's topics and select the first Topic. Aaron! I hope this will help you with your install!! UPDATE---YOU CAN JUST GO HERE: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...t=0#entry281786

Ok...after a lot of wire testing and trying different configurations I managed to figure out a way to use my "new" remotestart/alarm by itself without the factory alarm (the way I had wired the door lock/unlock originally) and I way to use both alarm systems together by unpluging and rewiring the alarm/remotestart's "lock" wire :) For more details and "PICTURES" of my first alarm install, please visit my othre TOPIC, titled "1990 Ls400 Remote Start/alarm installation " Hint: Click on my name <--to the left! click where it says member's topics...there will be 3 topics go to the one with the above tittle. Thank you for your comments and suggestions!! UPDATE---YOU CAN JUST GO HERE: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=44049&hl=

WHY???? WHY WOULD YOU DO SUCH A THING?? DON'T YOU LOVE IT ANYMORE???:cries: Unless there's something really, really, really wrong with it like bad damage due to an accident....I don't think you should sell it! But if you decide to do so....I am sure you will get a lot of offers in here! I already have one and I love it!

Yes! This new system comes with a starter kill relay and I can't even turn the car on with my key when the alarm is "armed". Also, I tried unpluging the "new" alarm and then the factory anti-theft light comes on. So, I am guessing it is normal for the factory alarm to be disabled with this new system. And if someone tries to rip this system up (which would take a while because we all know it's not so easy to get into the under dash of this car) then they still have the factory anti-theft to deal with. But, I want to double check with other members who have a remote starter/alarm system installed and see if their factoy alarms work together with their new systems or not. This is my first alarm install and I may be wrong and they are both supposed to work.....and I want to make sure.

Hi......if you check my other posting you would know that I was going to install an aftermarket remotestart/alarm/keyless-system in my 90' LS 400 which I just did yesterday.....I'll be posting pictures soon! However, before I post the pictures and mark this project as "done" in my to do list. I have a quick question for those of you who have a similar system installed in your car. Everything works with the new system------remote start--keyless entry (lock/unlock)--remote trunk opener---and all other sensors. I always thought that if you installed a system like this the factory anti-theft system would still work and only de-activate when you remotely start the car but in my car it does not work. I mean, it does not matter much to me because the new alarm works great and protects everything, but I want to make sure I did things right. I think that if I connected anything wrong things would not work right with the new alarm so I am pretty happy with the way it turned out but........COULD YOU TELL ME IF THE FACTORY ANTI-THEFT SYTEM IN YOUR CAR STILL ACTIVATES (LIGHT ON THE DASH COMES ON).......AFTER YOU HAD NEW ALARM SYSTEM/REMOTE STARTER INSTALLED IN YOUR CAR??

I was looking for the same thing (grill) formy '90 LS400 but I could find was a place on Ebay that sells a chrome grill kit that fits on your stock grill. I ordered it, installed it in looks awsome...I really like it. (looks just like the pictures on the site) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-LS400...sspagenameZWDVW

I tried looking at a couple of sites for you and still found nothing!! :( My guess would be to call or vistit...crutchfield.com Eventhough I could not find install kit for you in their site...their advisors are excellent and can give you some ideas on what to do. Good luck! (I'll keep looking and let you know if I find anything).

Sometime the backlight bulbs do go bad and there is a way to replace them, but it is also a common problem for the LCD screen to get blurred out or totally black....for this you have to options to replace the LCD screen...or to have your whole unit re-built. Here are some links that may help you-- This link will take you to a ebay auction where they are currently selling the LCD screens (you have to specify what car you have) which you can do yourself or have someone else do it for you. Since as you mentioned that you have a limited knoweldge about electronics I would have someone else do it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-Clima...sspagenameZWDVW If you decide to buy the LCD screen...this link will help you or whoever does it for you..to install the LCD screen in your Climate Control Unit: http://www.lextreme.com/lcdtech.html If you think you only need to replace the backlight bulbs....this link will show you how: http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/howto_aclights_repair.htm FINALLY...IF YOU THINK THIS WHOLE REPLACING THINGS YOURSELF IS TOO MUCH.. YOU CAN HAVE THE UNIT REPLACED! This link will tell you where to send your unit for replacement...it will cost you about $295 and you have to send the unit to them: http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/info_lcdrepair.htm This link will take you to a ebay auction where....you will have the option of having a rebuilt unit sent to you and then you have to send your "old" unit to them. (You will have to pay a $100 deposit which will be refunded when they get your unit) or you can send your unit to them and wait til' they fix it and send it back to you. I USED THIS SITE AND MY UNIT WORKS PERFECTLY!! I used option #1 payed the deposit and then got it back with no problems! This way I always had a unit in my car. At the end..the unit ends up costing you like $150 or something like that. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-LS400...sspagenameZWDVW I HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM!! --MARLON PLEASE COME BACK AND LET THE FORUM KNOW WHAT YOU DECIDE TO DO AND HOW IT WORKS OUT FOR YOU!

THE ANSWER! No...they would not go "DEAD" due to age. The LCD display would usually go black due to age but the controls should work..at least most of them. The radio would probably burn out some bulbs and you may not be able to see all the buttons at night but that's about it. Have you checked the fuses yet?

Hi...I know who you are talking about....I bought a Climate Contol Unit from him and it works perfectly!! as of today/// January 8, 2008...his link is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-LS400...sspagenameZWDVW

No problem...I am glad I could help!! ;) Make sure you post some pics for all our members!

I will definately post some pictures!!

Well, the check engine light will have to be checked by the code(s) being read. I think this has to be done by plugging the computer reader to the plug under the hood. Not sure about the brake warning light. Is the fluid full for the brakes? Does the brakes seem OK? If the break light shows up only when you press the brakes that's when you need to check the bulbs in the back...if the light stays on while you are driving (without pressing the brakes) like it happened to me...check brake fluid level!..that's what was wrong with mine. After a while it happened again and it was the same problem so I checked and one of my fluid lines to the front wheel was leaking so I replaced it and I never had the light come on again. As for the engine check light coming on...the cheapest way to know what it is would be to go to an AUTOZONE or ADVANCE AUTO PARTS store and have them do a diagnostic of the check engine light for you..for FREE!!! good luck!

HA HA HA -- OF COURSE NOT MAN...DO YOU THINK I'M LOCO?!!! THIS ARE JUST SOME HARNESSES I CUT FROM A JUNKED 92 LS400. I HAVE THE WIRE COLORS AND EVERYTHING BUT I WAS JUST WANDERING IF ANYONE NEW EXACTLY WHERE THE WIRES I NEED ARE, JUST TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR MYSELF. BUT I WILL JUST TEST THEM AND FIGURE IT OUT. BY THE WAY, YOUR WEBSITE.....SWEET!!!! YOU DID A AWSOME JOB MAN, CONGRATULATIONS!!

I have been looking for rain guard for my car for a while too (90ls400) and all I can find are for the front doors...I did find a company a while ago (over seas) but they were just too expensive. If I do find something fo all 4 door I'll let you know...meanwhile, I'll continue my search! There are a couple of places on ebay that say wood trim (but not real wood) for your car....what kind of radio do you have (single or double din). I have a kenwood double din radio and I did not need a dash kit...because I was able to use the stock bracket (whre the original radio was) to install my new radio and the radio came with an oversize trim ring (you can get just the ring on ebay too) and all I had to do was custom cut the ring to fit the contours of the center console. I also bought the wood trim kit ($100) and it looks pretty nice...I attaching a picture now....if you look right under the radio the custom cut wood piece did not fit right (opening was not high enough to fit radio..I sent this picture to the company) and they were able to redo it and ship it to my at no charge so now it fits perfectly! I am also attaching the dimension for the radio custom piece...so you know how to cut the trim ring. I hope this helps! thanks for the info but I was wondering what 8 inch subs did you replace because I'm planning to take mine out since it crackle at high bass for some reason which sound so nasty :/. i have an alphine headunit i want to put in I guess its a single din? whatever that mean... How long did it take you to put it in because I was planning to swap out everything from my car with 4 alphine type s speaker with 2 pioneer premier subs powered by two amps. SINGLE OR DOUBLE DIN REFFERS TO THE HEIGHT ON YOUR HEAD UNIT....SINGLE DIN RADIOS ARE ABOUT 2.3 INCHES HIGH WHILE DOUBLE DIN RADIOS ARE ABOUT 4 INCHES TALL LIKE THE ONE IN MY PREVIOUS PICTURE. THEY BOTH HAVE THE SAME WIDTH. IT ONLY TOOK ME ABOUT 30 MIN. BUT I DID NOT REPLACE ANY SPEAKERS----I DID REPLACE THE SUBWOOFER IN THE BACK BUT I KEPT THE STOCK AMP. THE AFTER MARKET RADIO SOUNDS A LOT LOUDER THAN THE STOCK RADIO AND IT SOUNDS GREAT WITH THE STOCK SPEAKERS SO I DID NOT FEEL THAT I NEEDED NEW AMPS...BACK IN THE DAY I PROBABLY WOULD HAVE PUT NEW ONES...BUT I HAVE KIDS NOW SO I CAN'T BE GOING TOO LOUND ANY MORE...LOL GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT...KEEP ME UP TO DATE WITH PICTURES!!! HERES: A LINK ON INSTRUCTIONS TO REMOVE THE BACK SEAT...YOU WILL NEED THEM! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=14710 OK---HERE IS SOME MORE INFO YOU MAY NEED! http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html <--HOW TO REPLACE SUBWOOFER...INCLUDES LINK TO THE SUBWOOFER YOU CAN BUY...IT'S ONLY ABOUT $70 FROM CRUTCHFIELD! http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html <--HOW TO REPLACE STOCK HEAD UNIT! http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/rearseat.html <--HOW TO REMOVE BACK SEAT (BETTER LINK THAN THE ONE I GAVE YOU BEFORE)! OK...If you decide to put in the amplifiers you told me about...the easiest way to run the wires from the engine compartment are under the car. From engine compartment bring the power wire for your subs..underneath the car to about where the driver's side seat is....under the seat(under the car) there is a plastic groumet you can take out and run the wire to inside the car...from this point run the wire through the back seat to the trunk. Therea was a link to this procedure but...I think the website was updated and I can't find this info anymore....if /when I do, I will let you know. I hope this information will help you in your proyect!! -marlon HERE'S THE LINK I WAS TELLING ABOUT.....BRINGING WIRES FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT TO INSIDE THE CAR! http://www.cureline.net/lex/audio/howto_wiring_install.htm

HERE'S A LINK THAT MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU! http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html <--HOW TO REPLACE SUBWOOFER!!

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html <--HOW TO REPLACE SUBWOOFER...INCLUDES LINK TO THE SUBWOOFER YOU CAN BUY...IT'S ONLY ABOUT $70 FROM CRUTCHFIELD!

I have a 90 ls 400 that needed a sub replacement as well. The dealer has two options, the Nakamichi or Pioneer subs, both pretty expensive, 370 amd 260 respectively. I talked to local installers. The first said he could throw in a "Kicker" for 150 bucks, but he really had no concern about ohms or enclosure space. The second installer said I would be better off getting a factory component or he would build an enclosure for one of his own subs. He said his experience with the trunk space and the resistance requirements of the ls 400 system have never been very good. He said he would be more than happy to take my money and install something that didn't sound quite right, but he thought the best bet was still a factory component. HERE IS A LINK THAT MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU IN YOUR DECISION: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html <--HOW TO REPLACE SUBWOOFER...INCLUDES LINK TO THE SUBWOOFER YOU CAN BUY...IT'S ONLY ABOUT $70 FROM CRUTCHFIELD! YOU CAN ALSO CALLED CRUTCHFIELD UP AND TALK TO ONE OF THEIR ADVISORS FOR FREE! I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU A LITTLE BIT!