2JayZ

TRD911 - do you know the process for tightening the steering pre-tensioner? Seems silly to bring the car back to Lexus and wait for the Service Department when it can be fixed in your own garage. Especially if they will charge an hour of labor to do it.

If you are looking for a significant MPG improvement over your 5.0 I'm afraid the GS will not handily provide it. Not to take anything else away from the discussion -- and I do LOVE my GS300 -- but you'll only improve your cruising range by about 50-70 miles per tankful. If one more day away from the gas station every week will make you happy then go for it, but definitely don't expect fuel economy to be a "feature" of the GS3.

Chill with the SHOUTING -- it's a holiday weekend for most of us. You'll get your answer if you are patient.

Increasing the oil capacity in any engine is always a good thing in my opinion. Adding a bigger filter will increase the oil-to-filter surface area and should provide more efficient filtration. It could also allow you to leave the filter on longer if you were inclined to do so. Smaller filters aren't a problem with 3000 mile oil changes, but with the new longer life oils, some requiring changing every 10,000 miles, a bigger filter could pay a worthwhile dividend.

We can help you better if you update your profile with the Model & Year of your Lexus. Generally, it sounds like the front suspension "unloading" after you come to a stop and then accelerate. Try backing up, coming to a complete stop then moving forward again to see if it still happens. If not, it may be a front bushing or suspension bit groaning at you due to excess wear.

Traditional logic says when you see white smoke you are burning coolant. Whe "white" part of the exhaust you see at full throttle is a mix of water vapor and glycol (and whatever else is in your coolant). The fact that you are also using oil seems to indicate a head gasket problem. There is probably a flaw in the gasket in proximity to an oil passage and water jacket passage.

Try disconnecting the battery again for an hour - just pull the Neg terminal off. Re-connect, then make sure you use a Master key to start the car. If this doesn't work you probably need a trip to Lexus to get reprogrammed.

This is why most of us call the "Dealership" the "Stealership." Simply go to your local trusted muffler shop and have them tack weld the heat shield back to the cat where it has come loose in order to stop the rattling. Don't you dare replace the entire cat (like the Stealership says) just because the outside shield rattles. Someone should fire the Service Manager at your Lexus store. That's some genuine rip-off advice they gave you!

My opinion: Goodyear F1 GS-D3 OneTred for strictly "summer" driving conditions (17" only), Goodyear ResponsEdge (carbon fiber reinforced sidewall) for A/S driving (16" / 17").

OK, I'm going to show my age here... In 1990 I took my 1989 Honda CBR600F up to 145. Do motorcycles count? Anyway, that was a rush. No room for errors and the front end became very twitchy even though I was fully tucked. In about 1995 I took my 1986 Porsche 944 turbo up to 150. The car was like "cool, this is what I do" and just blazed along almost effortlessly.

Welcome to the forum. I just recently had my console apart in order to change the gear indicator bulb and it was a snap. Here's a link to the thread that provides a step-by-step method, courtesy of BananaGS Lexus DIY page: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=console As you use the forum you'll see that many of your questions have been addressed previously by other members. One of the best "getting started" tips is to use the Search feature on the forum. In many cases, you can get answers right away rather than waiting for a member to respond. Once again, welcome. :D

Are you guys (Lexusfreak & dcfish) saying the OEM plugs last longer and give preferred (or better) performance versus the premium class Iridium plugs I mentioned above? The folks at sparkplugs.com list the OEM NGK BKR5EKPB-11 and Denso PK16TR11 plugs as being double ground Platinum center electrode. I thought the Iridium plugs had the longevity edge over Platinum plugs, and were therefore preferred. If you guys say OEM then I would certainly be inclined to agree (especially considering your post counts on the forum) but it seems to go against common sense.

HUH?? I am confused. Neither answers the question. BP I'm sorry to see you are confused. I think the answer is -- try to use the Search function before asking a question that has been asked (and ultimately answered) a billion times previously on the forum. I have been a member for a short while, but I've seen GuyTelefunken answer this several times already since Nov '07. In my humble opinion it is a silly thing to be concerned about anyway. What's the point of having a loud beep? So everyone can see you are locking or unlocking a Lexus? We should wager to see when the next yahoo rips his dashboard apart and then asks this very same "where is the thumbwheel" question. I'm not normally a grumpy *BLEEP* but it's getting old already.

Lots of previous discussions on this topic if you use the Search function in the GS forum. Concensus seems to be it's best to go with either NGK or Denso Iridium plugs since they last longest and give excellent performance. Also because changing plugs in the GS3 is a pain in the !Removed! for most of us. Cost should be about $7.50 for the NGK IX and $12.00 for the Denso IK16.

Good grief, not again! :chairshot: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=44468

It is probably assumed, but make sure you go for snows on all four corners. A GS with snows on the rear only would be a real handful. I've had great success with Bridgestone Blizzak & Kleber Kapnor tires. Depending on where you live Kleber tires may not be available to you.

If you are already happy with the V8 then you should go for the GS4. Big diff between 225HP and 300HP in the GS. Plus you'll miss that 8 cylinder growl when you accelerate. Mileage isn't that much lower in the GS4 versus the GS3 anyway.

I know it is generally agreed that the Denso and NGK Iridium plugs are the best choice for performance and longevity for our cars. Has anyone dared to try the new Pulse plugs advertised on sparkplugs.com? My plugs are due and I've chosen the NGK BKR5EIX-11 Iridium IX plugs at about $7.50 a pop -- but those Pulse plugs sure look interesting (except for the price, that is!)

Are you using fuel with octane rating of 91 or higher? Also, make sure to use gasoline only (without added ethanol) if you can find it where you live. Your problem could be this simple.

After removing the three nuts the plastic side cladding will still cling to the door due to double-sided "sticky tape" used at the factory. You can carefully pull the top of the cladding away from the door with your fingers, then use a razor blade (or a window sticker scraper or "widget") to carefully separate the cladding from the door. Don't scratch the paint on the door or you'll have rusting issues later, even though the scratches will be hidden behind the plastic cladding. Keep the edge of the razor blade on the plastic cladding when separating the sticky tape. If you are truly skilled you will be able to run the blade along the tape only without touching either the door metal OR the plastic cladding. Try it! After the sticky tape is separated you'll also have to undo the plastic securing clips that run along the bottom edge of the cladding. When these are unfastened the entire plastic piece will come off the door. Remove the phillips screws along the bottom edge of the cladding and slide the old strip out of the groove, pulling toward the rear of the car. The screws may be rusty so be careful. Clean any dirt/gunk out of the groove with water and a small scrub brush and dry everything with paper towels. Slide the new strip into the groove and put the phillips screws back in. If the screws are rusted badly you may wish to replace them with stainless steel as I did on my GS. Clean everything well with lint free cloths and Windex, paying special attention to the metal on the outside of the door. Do not get the sticky-tape wet! If you happened to scrape any of the paint on the doorskin touch it up with paint or primer. Run a thin bead of clear silicone along the surface of the sticky tape on the plastic cladding. Reassemble everything and repeat for the opposite side of the car. Don't wash the vehicle for 24 hours until the silicone has a chance to cure. Have fun!

Nice! This is exactly what I needed -- thank you. :D

My gearshift indicator bulb in the center console has burned out. Not a huge deal, but I want to fix it. I searched the forum archives but can't find a step-by-step for disassembling the shifter console to replace the indicator bulb. Anyone know how to do this on a 98 GS?

Can someone tell me why people are so concerned with adjusting the volume of this "beep?" There seems to be a new post about this topic every three days on this forum. A savvy forum member could probably use the Search function to find the answers he/she is looking for... :whistles:

Me too. And we don't drive BMWs either.

Me? Wrong? I hardly think so. Hahahahaahaahhahahahahahaahahaha. Brilliant post.