Bali26

If your trac system is acting up, remove its fuse and see if the symptoms go away. Also clear ecu memory by disconnecting battery for a while before this. TRAC error code is cleared by tapping brake 8 times in 3 seconds with tc and e1 jumped. Best of luck..

You could cut one of the prongs off from headlight bulbs so that only high beams worked. That way only fogs will be on at low beam... at your own risk.

I thought using the shift release button on gear lever allowed trans to be put in N without battery. Is your hood latch cable operated like mine? IF so: Have someone bang lightly with fist around latch area while pulling interior release. Also check its connection to cable. Try spraying WD40. Try heating latch with hairdryer. You might be able to reach positive terminal of battery from below by jacking the car up but it sounds crazy. Negative is engine block. Thats all i got...

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...db804dvc/#legal

I fixed the cone but it didnt make the sub work. Maybe something is wrong with its internals. I'm just gonna buy a new one. Here is the link: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...eries/db804dvc/

Try banging around the lock area with your fist. Check the keylock near the interior latch. Have someone listen for click when you pull the latch...

I have a very strong feeling it has something to do with your fluid. Not enough or too much. Heat expands it, making it work...? Wrong fluid?

So you saved 2 dollars by going aftermarket? Twice?

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

You dont have to replace the plastic manifold nipple if you are just going to plug the acv. Like me, you can just use an appropriate screw and epoxy glue to seal it off...and a plug on the metal manifold nipple. Feel free to break off the plastic part partly covering the acv wrench slots so that you can get the wrench on it good. After getting the wrench on it horizontally, push it downward with a metal pipe or something that will rest on the wrench head. Pipe will be vertical, wrench horizontal with pipe's hole resting on the wrench's head. I hope im making sense. I didnt have a pipe so i used some rachet extentions and spark plug socket.

58-60 USAF in NH, 62-65 North central MT, Anchorage/Fairbanks/Barrow in the early seventies, computer service and sales. What I've been trying to say is that here in my area conditions that require winter tires are rare enough that it's better to simply rely on chains for those rare times. So I never have to buy winter specialty tires of any flavor (nor pay to have them swapped over) and I only have to buy new tire chains if the "next" vehicle I buy requires larger ones. Intermixed with all that is my patent/extreme dislike of FWD & F/AWD vehicles in ANY adverse roadbed condition wherein they can suddenly become extremely dangerous with no warning to an inexperienced driver. Were I still living in MT and had to make a choice between a FWD or F/AWD equipped with the best winter tire imaginiable and a RWD or R/AWD with summer tires I would choose the latter EVERY TIME..! On an adverse, slippery, roadbed FWD or F/AWD vehicles are just as dangerous, or even moreso, as a 4WD/4X4 with the diff'l remaining locked after underway, highway cruising. Me too... I have all season and live in Canada. Whenever the road gets slick i slap on my snow cables (Security Chain Co model shur grip Z, s rated link: http://www.scc-chain.com/Traction%20Pages/Trac_SGZ.html ) I really believe a lot of snow tire users dont really need them or could do fine with cables. Perfect safety-product Marketing ploy...but it help the economy.

There are 3 mounts total. 2 on engine, ie one on drivers side and one on passenger side. 1 on transmission. Trans mount is very easy to do. Engine mounts are harder I have to do mine too. OEM is best. There is no good DIY tutorial available but this might help. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...30&hl=mount http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...amp;hl=glenmore Maybe you can post a photo DIY when you do yours...

If you twist the key twice in driver side lock does it unlock all doors like it is supposed to? If not that means an electric connection between driver doorlock and security module is bad.

search: andrew valmos in google or dealership

How about s rated tire cables?

I dont know what kind of wire will be appropriate. Maybe a stiff wire of some kind which can be pushed What i did was get an old tire valve and attach a stiff narrow hose to it. This way I was able to use gas station air.

In my humble opinion, don't put daizens they will make your ride harsh. Spend a little more money and buy rubber bushings. Much softer.

Arnotts are very good deal. Dont use a hammer, get a puller. No need for washers really just tighten up the nut and install cotter pin. That nut is going nowhere and you still have the cotterpin just in case. If something ever comes loose you will hear it long before Why would you? They come with beautiful rubber bushings in em.

your drain pipes for sunroof are clogged. There are 4. 2 out of front corners and 2 from back. Pour water in those holes individually to determine which one is clogged.

Pardon my ignorance....what is the ECT fuse...I do not see it listed by that name in my owners manual. Is that the OBDII fuse for diagnostics...Is it in the box under the hood or on drives side compartment. What does ECT stand for? Thanks The car is running great, will it hurt it to drive it very far? In my 91 its under the hood near battery. Its for the computer. You can't pull codes on odbII yourself. But im pretty sure they will go away with ecu reset.

The oxygen sensors

Remove ECT fuse for a few minutes to reset the system. If it comes on again then you may have messed up your O2 sensors or a spark plug maybe. You can also pull the codes at that time.

I meant push out of parking lot to avoid tow.

But you didn't do the brake tap reset + Ect (at the same time)?

Push