Bali26

I had the same problem as you. Remove ect fuse for an hour to reset computer. Then jump Tc and E1 points on ODB diagnose under the parking brake lever. Press brake more than 8 times in 3 sec to reset trac. Just keep tapping fast and it will reset. That solved it for me.

Check out this Your car maybe the wrong year though: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

reset trac and abs by pushing brake pedal 8 times in 3 seconds google: x km in miles

Yeah man, unless you are good doing repairs yourself don't buy. Even though LS400 is reliable, there's a specific list of things, its definitly going to need... If you have a garage and are good with tools, I dont see why not.

If CEL is on, there must be a code...Sensors not responding cos your car is in limp mode. Check codes....

Ahem, So I take it that I should stop checking for an answer to my ohm vs temp Qn?

Hi Lexls, Tutorial says that resistance should be 5.1-6.3 ohms at 68 degrees, and higher resistance is a problem. However, I had no resistance whatsoever at 40 degrees. It just said 0. I was taking the reading (two black wires) with sensor still on the car to check it. Does this mean o2 sensors are shot? Im getting 9 miles a gallon city by the way. No cel or trac light. 91 ls400 170K. Thanks and great site...

If your motor is getting oily dirty, something is leaking. If you are getting a black soot around any A/C fittings, they are leaking, if you are getting a spatter from the fan, your fan clutch is leaking. I always try to keep a motor clean. Dust can be hosed off, but any petroleum based stain has to be addressed. If you HAVE to clean a motor, I would recommend using the degreaser setting (green foam stuff) on the local DIY car wash and I would do it on a running motor. If you hit something that makes your car stall, you know exactly what needs to be dried off. I would rinse the green off with the low pressure spot free rinse. It is at a low pressure that would not compromise the weatherproof boots or fittings and it dries without spotting. A dirty motor is concealing any leaks that it may be starting. I did this procedure on my 98 Suburban and never stalled it or had an ignition problem related to the washing and the motor was always clean for me to spot any potential problems. Well, I got my advice from a senior Lexus mechanic when i took it there for check-up on the day i bought my car. The engine was really dirty so I asked him about it. He told me to treat the engine like a computer especially on a high mileage car, since the rubber boots are no longer water tight. He was quite clear, no water, no steam. But to each his own...

You are gonna do far more damage by "cleaning" it. Leave it alone. I have never washed my engine and never will no matter how dirty it gets. Its ok to wipe.

Try to search. There are a LOT of threads here about that. IAC valve is on PS pump, bottom side. You are not supposed to clean it. You are supposed to clean PS rack solenoid. Its on the PS rack with 2 wires sticking out...

Thats how it is supposed to be. Lit when doors open and shut off when closed...

Are there any other products that are comparable? i live in Canada and haven;t been able to find Seafoam in my passing glances.... Is there anything out there similar? NAPA

If you give me your VIN or Color code I can see if the paint is still available. Hi JZ, My car is a US import, 91 LS400, taupe brown metallic, two tone. Can you help me with the touch-up paint too? Whats the best way to get some? I live in Canada... JT8UF11E3M0081127 Thanks

Thanks a lot for that Simon, How did you know it was sticking? Did you just move it by hand to feel it? Do the pistons just come out completely? And brake fluid leaks out? Thanks Im also gonna buy a multimeter and check O sensors and MAF

OK.... you need to remove the valve from the PS pump and purchase a 17mm drain plug and plug it. Now you have 2 vacume lines to plug up which were connected to it. Cheap and good solution..... Cheers

Thanks Jerry, But wouldn't I have a Check Engine light if that was the case? Is it a DIY? Cheers

Hi, I'm only getting 10 miles a gallon city and 15 miles a gallon highway. This with me very light on the pedal. This problem is taking all the fun out of having a LS400. There are no warning lights (except the TRAC which comes on sometimes after 5 mins of driving). 38 psi tire pressure. No smoke or strange sounds or vibrations. No obvious vacume leaks. Now I've heard of sticking calipers. How do i check for it? Any other things I can check for? I cant afford taking my car to a mechanic right now. I have most tools. Any and all suggestions are very very appreciated.... Thanks in advance

Hi, I couldnt find an equivalent sub anywhere. So i took my sub to a repair shop and they quoted me $80 for re-coning. I didn't want to spend that much so I bought a 8 inch sub off craigslist for 10 bucks and removed its cone and am now going to install it into the OEM myself. Wish me luck...

Hi Pishta, My 91 LS400 end with 170K miles (hi Elvis) has the same problem. I can feel vib from steering as well as footwell but only under load when accelerating. Yesterday i replaced trans mount. It removed the D versus N vibration. I also installed arnott UCAs (so cheap and good) But the steering and footwell vibration still the same. Now im looking to replace engine mounts next but after putting front wheels in rear to rule them out first. Also PS rack bushes could be bad... If you need to buy trans mount buy from autopartsplace.com cos they have free shipping on over 50 buck purchase. I bought mount, oil filter and oil drain gasket to make it a 51 dollar order :) Keep us posted cheers

Guys....You are ALL right. Here's why: There is 3 types of auto glass. (Just like the tires on your car) OEM OEM-equivalent aftermarket Non OEM-equivalent aftermartket First two are exactly the same in quality and many times the exact same manufacturer. (Pilkington aka LOF) Third one is same "dimensions" as OEM but not the same quality and should be avoided. The tricky part is knowing which is which. For that you should look at the grading specs on the corner. And installation is EVERYTHING... Cheers

Well I live in Canada, I got my UCAs from arnott today. Its was 199 + 27 shipping + 67 customs. So $300 total. Really like the service so far. They look solid. Will post when I install them.

If someone could help with photos or a link to a photo tutorial, it would be great. I need to do mine too (and i'm sure many others too) , just need some encouragement.......Thanks

Check your Battery connections, dont only check, clean and tighten them. Then go up all the way to sparks. Its usually something simple. Oh and also it can be a fuel supply problem, My car behaved exactly like that when once i ran out of fuel.

If the overflow is already empty, It can't leak. I think you might have a leaking overflow. Coolant from overflow also gets sucked back into radiator as engine cools back down. Mixing coolants or just using plain water is ok in an emergency...You really need an honest mechanic.

Sounds like water pump / seal...Drive at your own risk. Change timing belt if you change water pump. Keep water in the trunk and keep the reservoir full.