lexus400

You're right but inside the rubber boot there is a ball and soket which does wear out but not nearly as much as the outer tie rods... Bob

Second on the Akebonos. They are the best brake pads I've used and I do about 20 brake jobs a year. About $65 or so for the LS. Bob

I got mine at a local supplier "ARI" - American Rebuilder I think. I've had it on for about 2 years, 30k miles and it's fine. I would buy another one from them. Bob

'96 ES... I'm getting two codes: P0446 (evap emission control sys.... circuit malfuntion) P0401 (EGR airflow insufficient) Any ideas ? I thought maybe I would take the EGR apart and clean that first. It's all original, car has 230k on it. Does anyone have a pic of the EGR ? I don't have any PDF's for the ES, just LS. thanks, Bob

Agree 100%. These Lexus stereos, including the Nakamichi are way overhyped. Remember, this is 15 year old technology at this point. I would replace the speakers with good replacement 5.25"'s for the doors. I swapped out all 4 of mine with Infinity's for about $150. They sound much better than stock. I also swapped out the sub with a JBL open box deal I got for $50. It sounds better than when it left the factory... Bob

Definite "yes" on the water pump since it's the timing belt that drives it and you're right there. Would not do the alternator at 90k. Very little if any labor savings and as long as your PS pump is not leaking on it, you've got a long way to go before it needs replacing. Mine is original with 170k and I'm sure there are plenty of people with higher mileage than that here on the board.... Bob I’m having the 90K service done in the next few weeks. I know these cars are almost bullet proof but water pumps and alternators are common failures (at least on cars that I’ve owned) on older cars. After reviewing several posts on the price of having these services performed later, it seems like it would be cost effective to do preemptive maintenance. What do you guys think? ←

How long are you guys finding the radiators lasting ? My '91 still has the original. When I change the oil, I can see the backside of it and some parts that are green. No visible leaks though and I don't add any coolant. I'm wondering if I should just replace it on my own schedule before the winter.... Bob

perfect, thanks...

True, if you are going to use a stop leak make sure it says it's for an auto tran NOT Power steering. Easy mistake to make... Bob

Does anyone have the torque spec for the engine subframe nuts ? They are the deep 17mm nuts, two on each side. I loosened these to get clearance to get the rack out. They're tight but I want to be sure that they're right. thanks

No, this is on the Gen I which I understand is totally different. Some people have called it a strut rod bushing but Lexus calls it a "cushion". Bob

My headunit is the OEM Pioneer and sounds 50% better by just replacing the spkrs...

yes, I have replaced the door spkrs (5.25") and the sub which is an 8". It's located on the rear deck. The factory spkrs are just full range made by Pioneer so don't get caught up in the hype that that you can only use "Lexus" components. I used Infinity's in the doors and a JBL sub in the rear. I think I spent about $250 for everything. Bob

I replaced mine yesterday. Two questions: 1) Why do they want you to mark the bolt/nut, measure, take it off and then put it back on ? I just left it intact and put everything back together. Anyone else do it that way ? 2) I now have a high pitched "squeak" when I turn the wheel. I can figure out what I could have affected when swapping these out. Any ideas ? thanks, Bob

yep, I was able to get them yesterday at a dealer for $115 each. I'm sure I could have done better but there was some value to getting them same day - especially on a Saturday. thanks..

Dealer wants $125 list... thanks, Bob '91 LS

I've done the rears w/o removing the parcel shelf, caliper and driveshaft on a couple of gen I cars. The instructions look the same for both. I don't know why the have you do so much disassembly... Bob

I have a similar problem and I just replaced my rack/outer tie rods last night. If I wiggle the wheel back and forth, I can hear/feel a clunk behind the steering wheel. With the rack out, I was able to verify that the noise is coming futher up the steering shaft towards the wheel. There's a little play if I grab the shaft and move it up and down. You can really only test this with the steering rack removed or the yoke disconnected. BTW, the new rack makes the car feel like a whole different beast. MUCH tighter in the front end. I replaced the rack, outer tie rods and rack bushings. Bob

Got the rack out. took about 2 hours. Pretty EZ actually. I took some pics and will do a writeup when I get the new one installed. Couple of tips now in case anyone is doing one or just about to: 1) The rack doesn't appear to come out w/o loosening up the motor mounts and jacking up the engine OR a much easier way is loosen the subframe bolts which will drop the whole engine down about 3/4". Once you do that, the rack comes right out. 2) The PDF says to "loosen" the top yoke bolt and remove the bottom one. Not sure why the top one needs to be loosened. The bottom is what disconnects from the rack (If you don't know, the "yoke" is the u-joint looking piece that connects the steering shaft to the rack). 3) I STRONGLY recommend changing the motor mounts (or at least the driver side) while the rack is out. I did mine about six months ago and what would be a 20 min job w/o the rack takes a couple of hours. The pass side is probably easier w/o the rack too but not horrible with it in place. 4) The only things you need to disconnect are: tie rod ends 2 PS line connections (these are facing the front of the car and are the hardest part) soleniod connection (quick disconnect) steering yoke 4 rack mounting bolts 5) I got new outer tie rod ends and rack grommets. More to follow, Bob

Well, I have a couple of things going on: - I replaced the inner and outer tie rods last year and noticed fluid inside the boots when I did the inners. I knew that it was starting to go. Fast forward a year and about 15k miles and it's leaking pretty good. I also have a clunk in the steering that feels like it's in the rack. With someone else in the car moving the wheel back and forth and my hand on the rack, I can feel something internal. It's the original rack with 165k so it's bound to have some play. I have a remanned rack on the way for $275 and picked up the rack grommets and inner tie rods for another $135. The only other thing I might change is the yoke which looks like a miniature u-joint on the end of the steering shaft. I'll check that when I take the old rack out. Bob

Same as the other Bob... I have a '91 which has done about three times in the 7 years that I've owned it. It is a carbon buildup. The first time I had it towed because it sounded like the engine was running with no oil. Lots of noise, really rough, black smoke. It's happened two more times since and now I just let it run for 2-3 mins and it goes completely away. I'm sure that's the case with yours... Bob If you take apart the Throttle body and clean it that will help.

Thanks... that's exactly what I needed. ko90ls, thanks for the offer but I think these will get me going. I'll take some pics as I do this... Bob

I downloaded about 20 of them from the Toyota site but forgot to get the one for the steering rack. I'm doing one this weekend... thanks

Looks like I need to replace the rack on my '91. Leaking and has some play with 165k. Has anyone done one and have a link to a procedure ? I've done the inner/outer tie rods so I have an idea on what needs to be done. A good rebuild source would be a huge help. I'm concerned that the rebuilts for $200 are just getting the seals replaced... thanks

Traction control... basically it keeps the rear wheels from spinning by applying the brake quickly. Turn it on/off when you're in the snow (if you get snow where you are... didn't check your loc) and you'll feel right away what it does. Bob