lexus400

The seats in my '91 are shot and the base has always been a little short. Has anyone upgraded from a newer model? LS430 maybe? thanks, Bob

Thanks I got it before I saw your post (damn!). What I wound up doing was removing the reservoir (3) 11mm bolts. Once that was out of the way, I used a short 17mm wrench to get the valve out. I put the wrench on the valve and then hit the other end with my 1/2" bar and a hammer to loosen it. I used an oil drain plug in place of the valve. Bob

thanks, unfortunately, that tutorial assumes that the pump is out of the car aleady. I'm so frustrated because I did this about 5 years ago! My manual only says "remove mounting bolts". I just can't remember which bolts to remove to get it out! If anyone knows, please post! I tried to get a vac line looped to each port on the valve, but there isn't even enough room to do that. If I left the old lines on I could have used a "T" but too late now. Bob

I am in the process of removing the idle control valve on the PS pump and plugging it. Found the correct size oil drain plug (if what I read was correct - 14mm x 1.5). I started to work on this and thought, why do I need to actually remove the valve. So, I tried a couple of vac caps with small hose clamps on the 2 valve inlets. It works enough to know that there's no difference with/without the valve. I drove it and it felt fine. One of the caps is dripping though. Not sure if I cut it with the hoseclamp, maybe I didn't even need it but wasn't sure what kind of pressure is building up. Anyway, I'm going to just plug the pump as originally planned. I don't see anyway to get the valve out w/o removing the pump or at least loose enough to turn it on it's side a bit. I replaced the pump about 5 years ago but can't remember which mounting bolts I need to remove so I can get to the bottom. Can someone tell me or post a pic? Anyone removed the valve with the pump in place? thanks, Bob

Good stuff, thanks guys. One last question, anyone have a pic of it installed? (or description of where it is). Once I get the new one I can swap it out, just not sure where to look (top of the intake manifold?). Bob

Does anyone know the part# or have a description? I can't seem to find it with the search. thanks

My car is going through a lot of PS fluid but no visible leaks. It's a '91 with 180k and about 75k on a rblt pump. I'm also getting a huge amount of smoke through the exhaust which has never happened before (when first started). Isn't there a check valve or something that fails that causes this exact problem? I seem to recall reading about this at one point. Any thoughts? thanks, Bob

'91 LS and shifter button is tight and won't engage in order to get it into gear. Takes a lot of playing around with before working. Once it does, it's fine. Any ideas? thanks, Bob

yes, jump over to clublexus and look for a thread from me "LexusLS" with the subject "rear knuckle bushings".... Bob

Yeah, it's a no brainer. Without these bushings you would have to replace the whole knuckle at $241 a side plus $85 for each arm. For $100, I can take care of both sides. Should be pretty easy, I've done a bunch of bushings like this before on other cars.

Does anyone have a pic of this hose ? I have almost 180k and a new pump. I think I'll replace this before it breaks. Thanks for the heads up. Bob

Would you want a car with mileage that low ? I don't think it will have REAL collector value, they made too many. Plus you have all of the potential low mileage issues (leaks, etc.) that wil probably crop up. 981 miles and 11 years old, that's less than 100 miles a year, 20 miles a week if someone drove it religously. I would be willing to bet it's sat for many months, maybe years at a time. I think I would be more interested if it had 5-10,000 miles on it. Just my .02 Bob

Thanks, I just found the answer - Credit to "AussieLS" on ClubLexus. Pics attached. Hopefully this will help the next guy as this can be really confusing... Bob

Thanks, I found that but I can't figure out which one I need. They were no help and I even emailed the pic in my post. Do you know off hand ? I've heard it referred to as a "knuckle bushing", "control arm bushing", etc., and can't get a clear answer. It'll be easier to install than find it ! Bob

I can't find anyone who can tell me what ADUS or other bushing I can get for the rear knuckle... I've emailed this pic around w/o any luck. Any ideas ? thanks, Bob

I'm looking for rear knuckle bushes myself, haven't found a source yet. Did they provide a part # by any chance ? I wouldn't worry about the TB at 66k. Yes, it's overdue by age but these belts hold up really well and it's not an interference engine if it does break. I would hold off on that and maybe do it next year. Nothing out of the ordinary, they're just trying to get you to do everything at once. Bob P.S. - you'll get years more out of the CV's. Mine have leaked a little for about five years. Once the joint starts to make a little noise I'll get a new one from raxles.com.

I have play in each rear wheel ('91 LS, 176k), the only thing I have done to the rear suspension is the bushing on #9, everything else is original. The play is coming from the "Rear control Arm"..... I can order the arm but the play is on the bushing pressed into the "Knuckle", #2. Is there a source/part # for that bushing ? Looks like the same procedure I did on the "Strut Rod/# 9 last year. thanks, Bob

Yes, I was planning on doing the fronts but after really checking everything again, it looks like my inner tie rod is to blame and the control arm bushings in the rear. I was sure it was the bearing and kind of ruled out the rack/inners because it's pretty new. I would shocked if the hub tamer didn't work on the Lexus but I have only used it once. I'll check the manual and see if they have a listing. Yes, the Timken bearings look like a quality piece and I would give them a try even though I usually stick with OEM. Bob

found it, dealer did not have a bearing so I'm going to try an aftermarket using my "Hub Tamer" bearing kit. Great tool, presses bearings in/out on the car. Just used it on my A8 and saved a lot of disassembly. Bob The bearing I'm using is a "Timkin". Made in Japan, $42 at Autozone. We'll see how good it is, looks first rate in the box.

I didn't download this one from the TIS website and am going to try to get done this weekend. thanks, Bob

I had mine done about 2 years ago (foam "blocks" is what the shop said they installed) and that did the trick for me. It don't think that it will change the height at all and there was no change in appearance. On the left hand side of my seat I could push it down with my hand until it bottomed out. That's what hurt but it has enough padding to be comfortable now. Bob

It won't play, did you get it working ?

would love to see that too !

Don't overthink it.... leaving you stranded is a rare event with these cars on not indicative of a bad one. This is probably one of those things you would have noticed beforehand if you owned the car for a while. Bob

I retapped mine (had to drill out the old ones) so I could install new ones. There have been theories that if the wheel has the slightest bit of play (wheel to hub) that the rotor could move ever so slightly. I would tap them out and put in new ones, only takes about 10 mins a side. I don't think that's the source of your shaking though. If the rotors are true, could be tie rod ends causing the shaking.