lexus400

Well, good news and bad news on mine. Turned out that the problem was the FRONT rotors. I've worked on cars for twenty years and the vibration was definitley coming from the rear. The steering wheel was not vibrating during shaking. Doesn't make any sense to me but two new rotors and pads fixed the problem for about 8k miles. It's now slowly coming back so I think I might have a caliper hanging up which is causing one of the rotors to warp. I'll post an update but for now check the fronts on your cars ! Bob

just called the manufacturer (USA Industries). Axles are the same on both sides. Same is true for 6 cyl Camry's too. The 4 cyl Camry's are different which must be the diagram I downloaded. Bob

I'm going to be replacing the axles on a '96 Es tonight. I p/u some remanned ones from my local parts guys and both axles are the same (same part # too). I thought that the left and right sides were different ? What is the snap ring and lock bolt that people have referred to ? Is that only on Camry's ? I asked the parts guy to doublecheck and he said that they are the same for both sides ? If they are the same than this should be pretty EZ.... thanks, Bob

Man, I've searched every possible way but can't find any procedure under your name. Do you have it locally and can post it again ? I think a couple of people are looking for it. I'll be happy to take that and add some pics and get it over to the maintenance section. Bob

yes, helps a LOT - thanks !

SKperformance - do you have a procedure that you wrote up for replacing an axle ? I've searched for about 1/2 an hour by topic and under your ID but can't find anything. thanks, Bob

I've got a blow outer boot on both sides. Does anyone have a procedure for replacing the axle shafts ? I've done these before but not on a Toyota/Lexus. thanks, Bob

no, look for my post within the past week abouty that... Bob

and # 5 - brake cylinder, leave in place.

I can tell you what you DON"T need to remove for the rear from the instructions above: 2 - b,c,d 3 and 4 That's WAY too much in order to get the strut assembly out. You can access the top strut bolts w/o taking out the parcel shelf by using a 13m socket. There's a little flex to the parcel piece in order to reach the back nuts. No reason to take the axle or brake out either. When you're reinstalling the the new strut, quickly press down on it to compress it (make it shorter) in order to get to fit back up into the upper mount and clear the axle. You'll see what I mean when you try it. It also might still get caught up on the side of the inside wheel well. There was one "edge" which I tapped down with a hammer. I also put some grease where it was hitting which helped it slip right into position. This is probably not an issue if you take the axle out but you're adding hours to the job if you follow the Lexus procedure. Bob

thanks guys...

I'm guessing that this is a dirty/clogged EGR right ? Anyone else get the same code and what did you do to fix it ? thanks, Bob '96 ES just turned 225k

It's more than likely the guide pins on the caliper. Worth a shot before you give up on the caliper. Make sure you flush the brake fluid too. Bob

one more thing.. make sure you get new "bump stops", they will be shot for sure.

MNJack, I'm in CT if you wanted to get this done... a little bit of a ride but I can do it a lot cheaper than the dealer. I've been getting OEM/KYB's from http://www.stopshopanddrive.com. They're about $75 a piece. Yes, I would get the boots as well. Strut mounts ? Tough call... more times than not they're ok even on high mileage cars. If you're not getting any "clunking" noises you might get away w/o them. Of course the problem is when if/when they do go, you need to remove the struts again. The back seat needs to come out for the rears, you don't need to take out the rear shelf (ignore that step if you see it in any write-ups). Email me if you need any help or want to get them done. Bob rdunne14@comcast.net

The '92 that my friend might part out has a bad differential bearing. Can I replace the diff w/o removing the transmission ? thanks, Bob

I wouldn't... a door against a fender or quarter panel is a different story. You can't really see the top of the trunk AND the quarter panel at the same time (except for the top edge looking down). I've done this and after waiting for the new paint to cure, buff the whole car to blend it in. It's usually the different levels of shine in the clearcoat that make new panels look "different". Once you level it out with the rest of the car, it'll be fine. If the trunk is that good, all they're going to do is wetsand and paint. Not a lot of work especially with the trunk off the car. 2 hours labor TOPS, and maybe $100 for a pint of paint and clear.

I bought them for a few ES300's as non serviceable, meaning you get the whole strut assembly. The OEM's are only about $75 a piece so even if you could get cartridge inserts, it's probably not worth it. Bob

Guys, I sold my friend my '92 ES about two years ago which I bought it from the original owner, my mother in law. The trans output flange is making noise and the probably needs a new differential. The car also needs, a new rack, windshield and drivers seat repaired so he's probably going to part it out. It has a GREAT body and if by chance your car is gold, doors, trunk, hood that you could use by just bolting on the parts. All of the glass and lights are good too. Has factory CD changer which I had rebuilt by Pioneer 2 years ago. Trans has 40k on a rebuild and shifts perfect. Fluid has been, and was just changed. This problem is in the diff and sounds like a bad axle (which are both new within 40k as well). Engine has 180k, oil has been changed every 3k since new. I just did tune-up less than 5k miles ago, timing belt/wp tensioners done about 40k ago. Engine will need a couple of seals which is no big deal if you're pulling it out anyway. I just did valve cover gaskets and oil pan within last year. Radiator is brand new. 2" of receipts... (dash and temp lights are going). Car is in CT. Let me know if you have interest in parts or the whole car. Like I said, the car is very driveable probably within the state with no problem but I can't guarantee that. Email me if interested and I'll put together a better list. Bob rdunne14@comcast.net

It'll work fine.. I've done it a number of times.

Forgot the second part of your question. You replace it as a whole unit. It has a single (17mm I think) bolt in the middle. Just release tension on the serpentine belt (no need to remove it) and make the swap. You'll probably want to remove the black plastic piece on top of the radiator to get better access. Just a few 10mm bolts.

I just had this problem on my '92 and it did turn out to be the upper drive belt tensioner. It was worse when it was cold and then slowly got better as it warmed up. Change that first, it's only a 15 min job if that. Even if it turns out to be one of the others they do fail eventually and you're not wasting a lot of time. It's about $50 at the dealer. Bob

You can use this procedure on your '92... that's how I've done it a number of times on a few different ES's. You get about 3 qts out on a drain and fill. No reason why you can't disconnect the trans line and flush it the way it's described. That'll work on virtually any car. As long as you keep adding fluid until it looks clean (red) that will flush the whole system. Same concept as bleeding brakes. Bob

I have a '92 ES which I sold to a friend of mine a couple of years ago. The trans was rebuilt and has about 40k miles on it. He called me because he was getting a noise coming from the front when driving. At first I thought it was a CV joint but when I looked underneath the output flange that connects to the axle (the inner CV) has a lot of play in it. It moves up and down and even has some play in/out. I am hoping that just the output flange is loose and that the center bolt needs to be tightened but I think that it might be the bearings in the transmission. Anyone else had this problem before ? Bob

a spring compressor is another example of an "SST"...