lexus400

I think that's it. What I bought is a crankcase filter too. I looked a couple of others and they seemed to be the same thickness, just different sizes. I bought one that was about 5" in diameter. It was folded in 1/2 in the package.

Ah, I didn't know that.... thanks for the clarification !!

sapper_daddy - thanks, I'll send a PM nc211 - the carrier bracket is what the caliper bolts to (it's the part you unbolt to get the rotor off). You'll need that !! This is kind of unusual, the carrier bracket is not usually a part you replace in the life of the car. Bob

Does anyone have a brake carrier bracket ? I know a couple of you guys found a few parts cars. I need the pass side/front. This is the bracket that you bolt the caliper up to. Mine has a crack so I need to get a another one. thanks

Good idea, guys. I changed mine on my LS and my mother in laws ES yesterday. If you go to Pep Boys, get the biggest filter they sell. It's the same thickness as the smaller ones and you can probably make 6 out of it. Bob

same problem on my '91 and yep, spare wheel looks horrible, all corroded. My trunk seal looks ok too but I have a feelig that they all "look" ok but still might be bad. I haven't fixed mine yet but drilled an 1/8" hole in each of the rubber grommets in the meantime. That's worked great for about 6 mos... at least the water has somewhere to go. Bob

ok, thanks for the clarification. I will pull it apart. Bob

yep, I have about 175k on it. Just to confirm, the fan clutch has the new bearing correct ? thanks

My fan has a wobble and I can feel a little bit of play if I grab it. Should I order a new fan clutch ?

I'm replacing the drive belt tensioner pulley. Got the old one off and it's shot, lots of noise from the bearing. Anyway, put the new one on but it doesn't really sit flush/get tight enough against the tensioner. I need it go go in another 1/8" or so. Is that normal ? Compared it to the old one and it's definitley the same part. Just seated the old one in place and it feels the same way ? It doesn't look keyed ? Any ideas ? thanks

Everyone plant this somewhere in the back of your mind..... A couple of years ago, I was doing a TB on an ES300 and couldn't get the crank bolt off. I have a Craftsman/IR 1/2" gun with a 6 HP compressor. I tried for over and hour with no success. No what it turned out to be ? The button on my gun wasn't pushed in all the way !! It was in enough to operate and sound like it was hammering away but was probably only putting out 1/2 the torque. Did I feel like a dope. It's the first thing I check when I can't get a bolt off now...

I think the verdict is go with OEM rotors which I'll do. Yes, forgot to mention that the problem has just been with the fronts. I'll give those a shot and see what hapens. Bob P.S. - caliper pins have always been greased with high temp brake lube

YES ! RELAX.... I wouldn't classify this as a run of the mill brake question would you ? This is well beyond the break in period for the pads or rotors. Like I said, I've done probably 50 brake jobs in the 20 years I've been working on cars. This is the first time I've had an issue like this... I think I have all the obvious things covered and was looking for something else to try. To the previous poster it's a '91 LS and the brakes are a little undersized. I think I might try OEM rotors and see if that makes a difference. Bob

All done by me. I've done probably 50 brake jobs myself and have never had this problem. Yes, guide pins are always cleaned and lubed. I have plenty of movement so I know that the pads aren't getting hung up on the pins. No squeal or noise, brakes work fine... just continual warping.

Mike, that sounds like the soleniod or starter to me. Unfortunately, this is probably the hardest component to change on the LS. I shudder for the day I hear it on mine... Bob

I'm using Raybestos rotors (2x) and I've turned the OEM once or twice. Pads are Raybestos ceramics. I've used both these pads and rotors in different cars and they have been great ??

I have a persistent problem with rotors warping. I have tried turning them and buying new ones. I go a couple of thousand miles and then very steadily they get worse and worse. Been through this about 4 times over the past 2 years. Calipers seem fine, no excessive drag. I replaced rear carrier arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, new rack, tie rod ends, struts, etc. I needed to do all of this anyway but I mention it because I know other components (carrier arm bushings) can cause a vibration in the front end and the shifter. Is there anything else I should look at ? The funny thing is the last time this happened, I checked the runout with a dial indicator and they seemed ok. I put new ones on anyway and the vibration was fixed ? I always use a torque wrench on the wheels. Fluid has been flushed a couple of times. Anything else that might be making it appear as though the rotors are bad ? I'm sure all rotors warp a little bit and maybe there's something else that shows up unless the rotors are dead on (new). thanks... Bob

It might be worth just replacing the whole half shaft. They're pretty reasonable and might last longer than a split boot. I haven't heard anyone have long term success using them. If you spend $25 on one, you're 1/4 of the way towards a rebuilt shaft with 2 new boots. Bob

yes, it does. I looked at it this way, with 170k I was on borrowed time anyway. For a little over $100 it's the same principal I apply to replacing my car battery. After 4 years it goes... I'll dig up the website. The receipt was not the same company name as the website. I got the Denso's. Bob

I just changed the original (pre cat) sensors on my '91 with 170k. It was running fine/no check engine light. Man, what a difference. I've had a slight "dead" spot in the acceleration since I bought the car 8 years ago. Moral of the story, install new ones if you have more than 80k miles. You will notice a difference. I got two Denso universals for about $110. I'm going to start changing these more proactively rather than waiting for a code... Bob

'96 ES. I replaced the EGR valve but am still getting the same code. What should I try next ? any ideas ? Bob

I removed what I think is the EGR valve assembly - (5) 10mm nuts but I don't see what I can clean ? The manual says "check valve for sticking and heavy carbon build up". There are two tubes but they look ok... not clogged. I removed the whole thing and I think the valve is the round piece with the single vac line attached. If so, how does that come off ? I don't see any screws or bolts that attach it to the cast iron piece ? It's next to the vac modulator. thanks, Bob P.S. - I was getting an EGR "restricted" code a few months ago and now it says "excessive" so I assume my problem is the EGR valve.

Let's not be so politcally correct - that is hideous by any standards.

I changed mine for the first time at 125k and it looked brand new. I wouldn't bother at less than a 100k. It's just a bunch of gears and when is the last time you heard of a rear diff going ? ALL other fluids in the car I go overboard with. Bob

I just put one in about 2 mos ago from one of the sites on ebay. It was a net of $275 after the core. I'm very happy, it looks to be a top notch rebuild. I'll find and post the name if you're interested. Bob