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topgun921, Pull the inner door panel and have a look, because its going to have to come off to diagnose and fix the problem anyway. Once off, you may be able to see where the problem is. Typically, a plastic clip breaks or comes undone and releases the control cable/rod to the lock mechanism. Once replaced, the problem is fixed. Other problems occur when a spring in the lock mechanism comes undone or breaks, not allowing the latch to lock around the rod attached to the rear door opening. In this case a used latch assembly is the best way to go, as a new one on a Lexus this old will be very expensive, if even possible to get. In some cases, the latch springs shut into its locked position when the door is open, not allowing it to catch around the rod when the door is closed. By pulling the outside door handle while trying to flip the latch open with a screw driver can fix this problem. Good Luck!

es300_98_NY, The usual rule of thumb for checking Tranny fluid is to have the engine and tranny up to temperature, and then with the car in PARK at idle , check the fluid on the dipstick. If the fluid is not up to temperature, the car isn't idling, etc., you won't get an accurate reading. By all means, don't over fill it, and don't run it if its low on fluid. Your best bet is to get the car at idle and check the fluid, even if its cold, and see where it lies on the dip stick. If its anywhere near the Full mark, the car should be safe to drive until you can get a more accurate reading when the tranny has finally come up to temperature (say 15 minutes driving). At that time add more fluid if necessary. If you check the tranny fluid level at idle when its cold, and the level is way off the Full mark .... don't drive the car until you get a competent Service tech to tell you how to proceed. Good Luck!

topgun129, If you're just changing the pads it won't matter either way. Only if you are changing the rotors must it be off. As far as torque numbers are concerned, it really isn't a big deal. Tighten the caliper bolts until they contact with the slide pin and 1/8 of a turn more, or until really snug. As for the wheel lug nuts, 100 ft lbs is adequate. As far as doing the job, do a youtube search for vids on Camry or Lexus brake replacement. There are many to choose from that will point you in the right way. Use a large C clamp or water pump pliers to reseat the caliper piston. You won't need any fancy tools otherwise. Good Luck!

saedito, Several things come to mind, all of them related to the front wheels. You may have a loose front wheel, a bad front wheel bearing, or a bad half axle shaft/CV joint. All of them spell stop driving the car at speed until you get the problem checked out. What you describe is far from normal and requires immediate attention. Don't keep driving until something breaks and you are facing a far more expensive repair, or worse. Good Luck!

Phil, You may have to get a diagnosis from a Lexus dealer, as much of these cars is proprietory to Lexus, and not even aToyota dealer can help you. You might try searching Toyota forums for a similar occurrence to see if there is a fix, as the Camry of the same generation shares many of the same components and systems. If that gets you no where, see if a Lexus dealership can give you an answer. If changing the entire instrument panel turns out to be the fix, eBay may keep the cost down from the stratosphere. Good Luck!

Phil, I'm certain that a lot of people are confused as to what "trouble lights" are? Are you referring to the four way flashers, the CEL (check engine light) or all of the dash indicator lights that flash on briefly when you start the car and then go off?

sandygarf, You'll need to pull the entire interior door panel to change out a door mirror. The main reason being the wiring harness for the mirror will be under the main door panel. There will be three 10 mm nuts with washers attached that hold the mirror itself to the door, and then that wiring harness connector. It'll take longer to remove the inner door panel, then to change out the mirror. Good Luck!

They are NOT the same! The part that I replaced was under the passenger rear suspension. It is a small grey plastic switch control that has a 3 inch or so long arm that sweeps through a 40 degree arc. The end of it is attached to a small rod (coat hanger diameter rod) about 3 inches long, the other end of which attaches to the A arm of the passenger rear wheel. As the rear wheel moves up and down it pulls or pushes on the small rod, which in turn sweeps the switch arm through an arc, sending the signal to the headlight motors, via that computer box you see in the eBay ad. The switch body measures 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches by 3/4 of an inch thick and has four screws, one in each corner. It has a short two or three wire connector and attaches to the underbody of the car, above the suspension. I can't say that this under car part is the same one that you need, or that the one pictured in the eBay ad you provided is it. All I can say is that the one I describe worked for me, simply because when I opened up my switch it was full of rusty corroded parts and obviously the culprit. I would bet that if you contact the eBaye seller he could provide the part I describe from his parts car. But whether or not you need the one part or the other, someone will have to diagnose that first. I suggest you climb under the car and remove the switch part I described, remove the four screws and open it up carefully and check its insides. If you're comfortable with that job yourself. If not, get a Lexus dealership to tell you what parts gone south, and then buy a used one from your eBay guy. That will be your cheapest route. Good Luck!

obsidianr, That's too far back for me to still have a number. I went with the picture of the sensor that was posted in the eBay add. It matched perfectly the one from my wife's car, and the year and model were the same. I'm sure that if you contacted a Lexus dealership and asked for the part number and its cost, they'd give it to you. It is a propritory part for Lexus. No one else will sell it. But you might find with some online searching, that for the same generation years of Toyota and Lexus cars that have the self levelling headlights, there may be several that share the same part. For instance, many years of Toyota and Lexus vehicles all share the same power window switches and brake parts, etc. My wife's ES presently has Toyota rotors on it from the V6 Camry of the same year. Cheaper to buy than the Lexus ones, and in my case, the Toyota dealer is in town, the Lexus dealer is 70 miles away. Good Luck!

You might check the sway barend links to see if their bushings are up to par. I had a vehicle that had the same rear end clunk on drive away that was traced back to the link rubbers on one side. Good Luck!

You have zeroed in on the fuel delivery as the culprit, and I would wonder if the electrical side of the issue needs addressing. First off, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to see if the ECM will reset and let you run a scan. That might point at the ECM having gone into Limp mode for some reason. Spark plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, cam position sensor, crank angle sensor? Perhaps that new alternator is part of the issue. Then again, maybe the throttle body needs a good cleaning. It could be a pile of things. You really need to get the ECM back on line to throw the trouble codes, or you are just going in circles. Good Luck!

fergi, I have a super low mileage 1990 Nissan 300ZX that is one of my toys. It developed a similar rear tire wear pattern, but on the inside 2 inches of each tire, on tires that had less than 10 000 km on them. After reading up on the issue, it became obvious that the rear end needed an alignment. In my case new springs, shocks, and adjustable camber arms were required, because the springs had settled and there wasn't enough adjustment available to correct the wheel geometry. Your car may just need a 4 wheel alignment, but be prepared for springs, struts, or linkages if more is required, because of the age of the car. You may be lucky and get away cheaply with just the alignment. Good Luck!

Duckfamily, (I really want to ask about that online name of yours, but I won't.) Thanks for the headsup on the steering joint needing lubrication. My wife's 04 has the same issue. I'll dig into it next week. Thanks again for posting the solution!

dcasanares, First, the car is off warranty at this age and any competent independent mechanic can do the work cheaper than a Lexus dealer, simply due to the shop rate difference. Second, every shop makes a certain profit from the parts and fluids it uses to do the work on your car. For you to show up with your own brake fluid, timimg belt, and other items, is likely to ruffle some feathers. I would sure ask the mechanic first, before I went this route. Thirdly, for the age of the vehicle and the mileage on it, you don't need to spend the extra money on SUPERIOR items. Use OEM timing belt parts (belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner) if you must, but aftermarket parts will do the job just as well, if you don't go the really cheap options that are out there. Regular, suggested maintenance, and careful use of the car, will give you far more life expectancy than you are even seeking at 219 000 miles. Just be sure that all that you've been told needs to be done, actually needs to be done. Get under it yourself, or get another opinion on each of the items. The timing belt should come first (at 100 000 miles I believe), followed by the brake flush (suggested every 4 years) and the tuneup and fuel injection service, but they are only required if the car is running rough. Otherwise push that item further down the road. As for the leaks, how bad are they? Can they wait awhile if they are small? Then again, maybe they spoil your interlocking brick driveway, and need to be addressed sooner. You have some options, you have some time, and you have a well built car with a reliable reputation, if its not beat on and is driven responsibly and cared for. But you don't need to go overboard, unless you have the time and money for the peace of mind it will give you. As an aside, you really should have started another thread on your topic. You would most likely get more responses that way. Good Luck!

Gentlemen, Here's what I found after a web search, from 3 different sources: To reset the windows : Go to the local switch at each window (not from the driver's door) and manually run the window full down then full up, and hold the switch in the up position for a count of three. This must be done at each door, as each window is individually manually reset by doing this. The windows will then operate automatically from both the local switch on each door, and the remote switches on the driver's door. Obviously, the driver's window is reset in the same manner. Good Luck!

Gentlemen, I agree, a newby should NOT attempt a spark plug change on an engine with this intake configuration. It is a recipe for an expensive disaster. Doing the same job on a 4 cylinder Toyota or Honda would be a good place to start to learn. Everything is right out front and easy to get to. The back 3 plugs on an ES are a replacement nightmare. That said, I have come across a posting quite some time ago (2 years or so) of a backyard mechanic who did these same 3 back plugs on his ES, WITHOUT removing the intake and all. He said that the required tools for the job were, in order of importance, LOTS of patience, small hands, and a (for lack of a better term) spin ratchet. A spin ratchet is one where instead of swinging the ratchet handle back and forth, you can also just turn the handle grip clockwise and counterclockwise, while the ratchet is stationary. As I recall, he said it took him quite a while to do, simply because you're doing the job blind, and just by feel. Personally, I bought just such a ratchet in preparation for tackling the job myself, on my wife's 04 ES330. I just have to wait for her to pile on another 38 000 km and I'll find out how easy it is myself. And yes, I'm a backyard mechanic, who has been in the backyard quite a while. If the spin ratchet method doesn't pan out, I'll tackle the plug change the old fashioned way.

mbh, Try the eBay route again (as you've already stated), and then you're forced to go the wrecking yard route for any ES of the same generation. Surely some wrecking yard within a three state range has one and can ship it to a yard local to you. Most wreckers have their own online communications link to find parts in other yards and have them shipped to them. You'll pay for the shipping, but you would anyway with eBay. Good Luck!

Sounds like a bad ground to that light, or a bad connection. 1. Pull the bulb, clean its contacts and the contacts in the socket. Reinstall it and check the problem. 2. Change the bulb. It may look good, but may be failing. 3. Search the wiring back on the harness to the first ground you find, clean that up, or add another wire to the ground on the socket and fasten it securely to a good ground on the body somewhere behind a panel. Good Luck!

You seem to be on the right road for longevity, but should add the following if you haven't already done so: replace the brake fluid, tranny fluid and filters, and coolant (do a flush as well). Wouldn't hurt to get the throttle body cleaned and have the brakes taken apart, cleaned and relubed. Other than that, fix what needs to be fixed as they appear. Good Luck!

Sicilian504, Get that wheel bearing checked and replaced if its bad! You're flirting with disaster. If that wheel comes off at speed you may well be visiting a funeral home, yours, or the family that was killed in the car you hit. Yes, a bad front wheel bearing can cause a vibration that you'll feel in the steering wheel, but so can an out of balance front tire, or a bad bearing or CV joint in a front axle shaft. A bad wheel bearing doesn't necessarily have to make noise, although they usually do. Get it checked soon! The longer you let it go, the more it'll cost to fix. You don't need to go to a Lexus dealership, any good independent garage can do the work (Cheaper most likely) and they can use aftermarket parts (Cheaper again, most likely). Yes these jobs are a DIYer. I've done several over the years on various vehicles I've owned. But I've got to wonder from the questions you are asking, whether you have the knowledge and tools to do the job competently. To find out, go on YouTube and search for vids on changing front wheel bearings. Doesn't matter what make of car, as they are all pretty much the same. After watching 2 or 3 you'll know whether you feel confident enough to tackle the job safely yourself.Good Luck!

lebowski2, If you don't have an ABS warning light come on the dash when you brake, the problem is most likely in one of the calipers rather than the ABS pump or sensors. I would suspect that a stone or such is lodged in between the pad and rotor, or that a single brake pad, slide pin or caliper piston is sticking. What the grinding is won't be sourced until you swing the calipers off the rotors and check them out. Something is corroded or severely worn and needs replacing. If its a sticking caliper, I'd bet that the brake fluid has never been changed, a job that Toyota recommends doing every 4 years. Good Luck!

From what I can find online in short order, any 1999 to 2001 ES will share the same doors as your car, and should be a direct swap, with the exception of colour and interior panels, which can be swapped with your originals. Good Luck!

Obviously the only way to correct the problem is to pull the windshield and reinstall it properly. If you have wind noise, you will have water leakage into areas where there will be electrical short circuits and rust outs that will be very expensive to repair down the road. That said, you might try a tube of Automotive Goop. Its a tube of clear sealant that can be squeezed into the cracks around the mouldings or between the gasket and the glass. You might get lucky.

There aren't any. Just pull the headlight assembly straight forward. There is an alignment pin on the headlight that fits very tightly into a spring socket. You'll think its another bolt, its not, just pull hard enough to overcome the spring socket.

bkcali, You need to see if Lexus can get you the part, and if not, find a same generation Toyota Cressida or Lexus ES250, or Toyota Camry in foreign auto wrecking yards. Chances are the part is the same on the same generation of vehicles from Toyota, say 1988 - 1990 or so. Its going to take some searching, for sure. Good Luck!