gbhrps

beejayy1224, That's the wrong question. Why buy parts when you don't know what the cause of the problem is? You may find that a wiring connector to the door motor has come undone, or the connector is corroded and just needs to be cleaned up. Its possible that a mouse has made a nest in the air box and its jamming the door open or closed. As for the cost of the parts, once you know exactly what parts you need, if cost is a concern, find a wrecking yard that will let you take the parts off yourself and buy them for a fraction of the cost of new. Keep in mind that a Camry of that same generation may well use the same parts, which would make parts even cheaper to buy. And if you don't have the expertise to do this kind of work yourself, find a good independent mechanic or a good backyard mechanic who has been in the backyard a while to do the work. Good Luck!

scorpio47, If the smoke smells sweet, its coolant, and you have a leak from the radiator, a coolant hose, or the front bank head gasket. One thing for sure, if its coolant, you will be able to smell it, Be aware that it doesn't take much of a leak for the coolant smell to be prevalent. Then again it may well be oil that has found its way on to the front header pipe and is being burned off, again from a minor leak. To track it down you may well find that you'll have to get the car on a hoist, and have an experienced mechanic check things out, before a minor problem leads to a really big expensive one. Good Luck!

beejayy1224, If you have cold air from the center dash vents and warm from the side vents, its not going to cool the car down as you are used to. The fact that one set of vents expells cold air and the others don't, says that the motor that opens and closes the side vent feed from the HVAC unit has stopped working. Either the door flapper is broken, the motor has seized/burned up, or the wiring to the motor has gone south. The problem is that the motor parts are all under the dash and difficult to get to to fix. On a car this age, I would not be taking it to the dealership, as the cost may be astronomic. Find an independent mechanic who works on Camry's and get him to diagnose the problem and fix it. Be prepared to spend some bucks as it may prove to be a time consumming repair. Good Luck!

hoopes999, Try looking for the same thing on a 93 Camry, as they are really twins. There may be a write up or video on YouTube.

Thanks guys! I'll check it out.

xlexus, Your best bet is to check eBay as they come up there with some frequency from wrecking yards. Be aware that just having the head unit will not be enough. The dash surround is entirely different on a Navigation equipped ES, as is the radio, and HVAC. Everything is integrated on the nav screen. That may mean that wiring harnesses may be different, the control units for each system as well. Then there is the GPS antenna that hides in the rearview mirror (I believe) as well as its wiring harnesses, the rear camera and its wiring to the front of the car. The list and work involved will be daunting to someone who isn't a wrenching fanatic, because all kinds of interior panels are going to have to be removed and replaced. And to expect a dealership to do it will prove almost as expensive as what you paid for the car. You need to do some research before you jump in and find that you are in over your head. That may prove difficult unless you can get access to a Lexus Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year. They are expensive and few people have them outside of the dealerships. Even Toyota Dealerships don't have access to them. I suggest finding a Lexus tech person who can give you an idea as to what you may need, and then find an ES of your same generation that has been written off in a wrecking yard, and then canibalize it for the parts you need. Be aware that even when you're done with the install, that updated GPS mapping will still be required, and on eBay they aren't cheap. Personally, your best bet is to live with what you have right now, save some bucks, and keep your eye open for a Nav equipped ES down the road, and then do a swap. To give you an idea ... I have a non turbo 1990 300ZX, and on the forums every week there is someone who buys one and wants to make it into the turbo version tire shredder. The forum advice is always the same .... if you want the twin turbo version, sell your non turbo and buy a twin turbo. The cost and expense of making one is far too expensive in time and money to even consider doing. Good Luck!

Gentlemen, A recent episode with a no start condition on my Bride's 2011 ES350 got me to thinking. How does one go about getting into a locked ES when the battery is dead? There are no locks to open with a key, as everything is done from the key fob buttons or the close proximity of the key fob to the door handles. There must be a battery jumping point under a panel through a wheel well or under the car somewhere. Or do you just go through a window with a brick? Seriously, Lexus must have a procedure for such cases. Anyone know what it is?

rexbella, You are most welcome. I might also add that the tear/crack edges really need to be filed/ground back at a 45 degree angle on both sides. This ensure that the adheasive gets into the seam to fully bond both edges. Obviously there will be some body work to do after the adheasive is cured to bring the seam area back level with its surrounding material. As well, depending on the colour, you may find that the tear area can be " blown in", rather than painting the entire cover. Silvers just don't allow the same procedure and usually force you to paint the entire panel. Good Luck!

rexbella, I'm a backyard mechanic as well as a helper in an automotive collision and antique restoration shop. We are constantly removing, repairing and reinstaling bumper covers all of the time. If yours has just the tear that you describe, a repair and repaint is the cheapest way to go, as I'm sure Lexus will want terrifying amounts of dollars for a new one. And then it'll cost even more to paint it. Removing one is a one man job, but after the repair and repaint its a two person effort. This ensures that you don't scratch the paint upon reinstall. Its been two years since I removed my wife's last ES's bumper cover (04 ES330) for just such a job. Yours should be similar. If there are all those plastic covers over the entire engine compartment, they come off first. Push the center of each plastic plug down until they snap and then lift them out. (To reinstall them, push up on the bottom of the pin until it comes clear of the top, insert into its hole and push the top down until it snaps into place FLUSH across the entire top of the plug assembly. There are 13 (?) to remove, and if you don't get them all back in the correct locations, you'll end up with 3 left over. Pull up the front plactic section and find the 3 places you missed. Start the bumper cover removal by removing any plastic plugs and 10 mm bolts across the top of the rad support between the headlights. Then from under the front of the car, pry down the center of the plastic plugs and pull the entire plug out. There may be some more 10 mm bolts to remove. Then at the seam between the fender and the bumper cover, right at the front wheel opening, there will be a screw or 10 mm bolt the screws straight up into the fender that has to come out. There may be some plastic plugs and screws along the inner wheel well that screw into the front bumper cover to be removed. You may have to remove them first to find that bolt that screws straight up. At this point, with firm but gentle pulling (don't yank on it) pry the sides of the bumper cover out away from the fender and towards the front of the car. Do the same on the other side of the car. Pry the grill section of the cover away from the rad support, and then wiggle/pry the cover straight away from the bottom seam with the headlights. (You'll see plastic grips on the bumper cover that secure under the headlights that need to be freed up. Once the cover is entirely free, reach in behind it and unplug the wiring connectors to the fog lights and you're done. I suggest that you entirely remove the grill assembly and the fog lights from the bumper cover to get a far nicer paint job without masking and overspray. This is pretty easy to see how they're removed when you get it turned over on a bench covered with an old blanket. After repairs and painting, cover all matting surfaces on the car and the bumper cover with masking tape. I guarantee that you'll scratch the paint if you don't. That's the headlight edges, the seam of the fender shared with the bumper cover, and those same areas on the bumper cover. All of the tape can be removed just before you palm push the bumper cover into its final resting positions, but leave it on until just before you seat everything for good. As for repairing the crack/tear, there are special adheasives that are far better than fiberglass. They will cure to become part of the bumper cover, and yet remain pliable unlike fiberglass. You can get it an an autobody supplier, but most require a special grease gun type applicator that mixes the two tubes of chemicals together at the same time. In other words, its not amateur friendly or inexpensive. I would suggest getting a body shop to at least make the repair for you, and depending on your expertise, maybe they should paint it for you. Reassembly is just the reverse, just don't forget to hook up the fog light wiring before you pop the cover back on. Guess how I know to remind you of this? Good Luck!

Guys, You both need to share your disappointment with Lexus USA. Write letters to their complaints departments explaining the issue including several pictures. Be polite, but firm in expressing your disappointment with the lack of concern shown by your dealerships in dealing with the problem. Explain that you both belong to this forum, and hope that you don't have to share your treatment to the forum members, Consumer Reports, the Better Business Bureau in your state, and all of your friends and relatives. You hope that Lexus would reevaluate your issue, as you know of at least one other owner who has the same exact problem. Also state that their response to your issue will help you to decide whether or not you will purchase another Lexus in the future. I can tell you that this has worked for me over the years with GM on a repair for a 77 Corvette, 3 months after the warranty was up. It also worked with Toyota on a used Cressida we purchased. In the GM case they gave us the rear end parts free of charge, and required us to pay the labour charges for the repair. More than fair. As for Toyota, they gave the dealership the parts for free, and paid them to install a new sunroof computer, and this on a four year old used car. I repeat, be firm but fair with them. Tell them that on a vehicle of this age, initial cost, and reputation in the industry, that you would expect that Lexus would want to correct the situation and keep a valued customer. Good Luck, and let us know how it turns out.

kerk, Do an online google search for the "Consumers Report best used cars to buy", and you won't find one BMW or Porsche, or Audi or Mercedes Benz listed. You will find almost every Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Mazda, Subaru and one Ford (the last generation Fusion) and one GM (Lacrosse?) (Can't recall about the Nissan's, Kia's, Hundyai's.) Personally my wife has had 3 Lexus ES's and two Cressida's before that, and everyone of them has required no more than basic maintenance. I'm not saying that nothing ever goes wrong with a Toyota/Lexus vehicle, but problems are few and far between. If you treat them right and do what is required, they are pretty much bullet proof. As for your BMW, do the same search for the 10 worst used cars to buy, ... the X5 places number one. Makes one wonder where their X3 would end up. As for what I personally drive, Subaru Outback's. I've had 4 since 97, and have never had a major issue with any one of them. Sorry to burst your bubble on the Bimmers and such, but you did ask. Good Luck with whatever you decide on! (Hint: Get the Lexus!)

suprasvoboda, Before you go for this, be sure you know where the body control module is located, or you may be wasting your time. Check with a Lexus service tech, or a good independent mechanic who works on Camry's, as they should be located in the same position on the car. There really is no big deal with removing the knee bolster on the driver's side if it is indeed behind the panel. I pulled that same piece just last year on my wife's last ES, an 03 ES330, to replace the accelerator pedal and and its accelerator pedal position sensor. There are two or three screws as I recall and one or two plastic push pins that simply need the centers pried out, and the panel is loose. It will only come out 3 inches or so, as all of the wiring switches for the trunk release, etc. are connected and need to be unclipped and pulled apart on the back. On the other end of the panel (near your right knee) is the power pedal switch (if so equipped) and a small grating which has a plastic tube (interior air temp sensor?) behind it to be removed. Don't worry about getting everything back together correctly, as all the connectors will only fit in one location, to keep you from hooking up the wrong wires and switches. There is as I recall a small rotary volume switch along the bottom about dead center that needs disconnecting for the keyless entry warning beeper. Just take your time and pull gently, and you'll figure out what has to be done. This isn't rocket science. As for a manual on all of this ... they are few and far between as Lexus is very stingy and wants about $600 for the factory service manual. Very few people have them, but they are out there. As I said before, go for it, but take your time and don't force anything and you'll be surprised at how easy it'll be. Good Luck!

wineluver, It really comes down to how deep your pockets are, whether you can live with a small leak, is your driveway interlocking brick or gravel, or whether you're someone who must have a pristine ride. From my perspective, you can mop up an oil leak spot on the driveway a heck of a lot of times, compared to 20 hours labour at $85 an hour and $50 worth of parts. But its your call to make.

oxfordlexusman, Google search each code for your year and model to get a starting point. For instance "2001 Lexus DTC 1135". Do the same for each one. Keep in mind that these will be just starting points as to where to look for the problem. Don't rush out and buy any parts, because most people who go that route end up with the problem they had at the beginning, but have just dropped several hundred dollars replacing a part that was not the issue to begin with. After you find the code meanings, then find a good independent mechanic who you can trust (through friends), and explain your issues. Many times a good mechanic has solved this same issue and can read between the lines, to zero in on the real cause of your problem. Experience is the best teacher here. It will pay dividends in the long run. There are too many people who get the free code reading at Pep Boys or similar and just buy the suggested part. Then they discover that the part didn't need replacing, but something else in the same system caused the issue, like a bad ground wire. They could have spent $15 and ended up dropping $150 instead. Good Luck!

EvaFearless, You're going to have to take the car to a good independent mechanic who you trust. Lexus can do the same for you, but the end result will be more dollars from your purse. Give the mechanic the history you gave here, and with a wiring diagram for your year and model ES, he will be able to track down the wiring harness or component in the loop that has shorted out. You've started on the right track to solve the issue, but it requires an expert's help at this point. If you have a local shop that calls itself similar to "Kitt's Auto Electric" (a business near my location) , that would be a good bet also, as they do mainly electrical systems problems, rather than mechanical, and should get to the source of the problem much quicker, meaning less dollars. Good Luck!

suprasverboda, Try a local wrecker who has the same generation of ES. Or contact one of the wreckers that sells used parts on eBay, and tell them exactly what you need and where its located. I'm sure they can pull one for you and price it much better than a new one. Just don't tell the wrecker what Lexus wants for it, but they may well know anyway. Good Luck!

JLakewood, You could have a problem with just your head unit requiring repair or replacement, but it may just need a reset to correct the problem. Do some online research on Google under "2007 Lexus (or Toyota) Nav reset" or similar. You might get lucky and find a post somewhere that explains how to do a reset. If not, its of to the dealership. Years ago Toyota had a swap/repair program for its radio head units that was very reasonably priced. I made use of it on a Cressida back in the 80's. I don't know if such a thing is still available, but you might ask the dealership. I think I paid $300 or so to exchange my problem radio with a factory refurbished unit. Considering a new one was over $1000 at the time, it was a great deal. Good Luck!

grinner, My experience on the last 2 ES's we've purchased for my wife. First ... let some other person pay the hit on the depreceation ... so we buy our vehicles 2 or 3 years old, that scream of "pride of ownership". Her 2nd E ,an 04, was hit in the front right corner previously, welds and rust on the top corner of the rad saddle telegraphed a mild hit, possibly new headlight, front fender, etc. The car had 41 000 km's and was pristine with a complete service history. It drove and treated us fabulously till it was just time for an upgrade last year, after my Bride officially retired. Here in Ontario, Canada, the government has since mandated that all accidents and repairs associated be reported to the next buyer. We traded the 04 on a 2011 ES with 38 000 km's, absolutely loaded to the teeth with every option. Its a honey and early in its life it was hit to the extent of a "reported .. $24000". The car was repaired and the original owner continued to drive the car until we purchased it from where he traded it in on a Honda Van, due to a family change. The fact that the original owner had found no reason to trade it after the collision damage fix for 2.5 years, told me that it was fixed correctly. That and the fact that it came with a complete service history, and I spent 2 hours crawling all over and under the car on a hoist to check everything out (backyard mechanic whose been in the backyard for many years). I defy anyone to find a hint of any repair damage, and I seriously doubt that the amount of damage reported, was actually done to the tune of $24 000, which would have been half the value of the car at the time, and it would have been written off rather than repaired. We've now had the car just over a year and it runs flawlessly. My wife loves it. I might add as well, that where we bought the 2011 ES took her 04 ES on trade and put it right up front on their lot, in the same position as the 2011 we traded up to. The 04 sold in two days. My point is, that your damage doesn't look all that bad, and if its fixed correctly, you may find it will continue to give you years of great driving for far less than the payments on a new one. That said, if after its repaired it just isn't the same ... deal it. Selling a used ES is not hard at all, if its been taken care of. Good luck making your decision!

suprasvaboda, Been there, done that, but on an older ES or Subaru (too long ago to remember exactly). Anyway, I found long pigtailed 12 volt bulbs of the same size at Radio Shack. The pigtails are about 2 inches long, in a two bulb bubble pack for about $3.00? Thin green condoms were on the original bulbs that I carefully twisted off to reuse. Then with an ice pick tool (or similar) I unwound the pigtails from around and through the holes in the original bulb plastic sockets, and removed the old bulbs from their plastic twist base. From there its an easy fix to insert the new bulb's pigtails through the plastic base, pull the bulb into place and wind the pigtails around the contours of the plastic base and cut off the excess pigtail. Then install the green condoms. Easy fix ... and pretty cheap. When one of these bulbs goes, since they are all in parallel, the increased juice when one burns out tends to burn the others in the same circuit pretty quickly. So if there are any old ones still working, it might be best to replace them while you have everything still apart. Good Luck!

grinner, Kind of hard to grin after that. I share your pain. Did the air bags fire? The seat belt pretensioners? If they did, add the cost of rebuild parts and labour and I suspect you're looking at a write off. If the bags didn't fire or the seat belts, it may be a possible fixer upper, but with CarFax, etc., and the next possible owner discovering the damage, it may prove hard to find a buyer or even trade it. Then again, if you can fix it yourself, and after the fix it has no bad habits, you could get lots of great driving years out of her. But its a crap shoot. If it were mine (I have a shop to work on it and the expertise to do the body work and paint, a bunch of other vehicles to drive in the meantime, am retired and have the cash to do the job) I'd go for the fix. If you're not in this kind of similar situation, it might be best to let the insurance company write it off and deal with the wreck. You could be quite a long time storing the wreck until you even break even with selling parts (after buying the wreck from the insurance company). Keep us posted as to how it all works out. Hope it works out for you, but ... you walked away from the accident man! It could have been far worse! Good Luck!

KBRZ330, No doubt about it .... you are a sick puppy! My heart stopped when I read your first post.

lady tigress, Its unusual for the female owners to ask this kind of a question, but since no one has jumped on this thread to answer you , I can off er the following. Everyone will have a different answer for you, just like the argument of Ford versus Chevy versus Ram, as to who makes the best pickup. Then again, an ES is not sprung or designed for slapping around on the road, as a Toyota Supra for instance. This only complicates your question. To get a close to best answer for you, would be to go online to TireRack.com, fill out your vehicle's year, make and model, and driving patterns and see what they suggest. They pretty much sell tires made by all the tire manufacturers out there, and will be about as unbiased and knowledgeable as any source you could find. Good Luck in your search!

Mo Free, We have to assume that you are only partially filling the gas tank, which must be down near empty before you added the fuel. Without doing a mileage reading at the time you added the fuel, and then again at the time you next fill up, and then doing the math on distance travelled and the fuel used, its impossible to give you any kind of an answer. I can say that with all of the various cars I'ved owned in 46 years, that many of them had fuel gauges that never read accurately across the entire gauge face. Some after a total fillup would never have a gauge movement off full for 80 miles or more. Others would drop from full quickly and then took forever to get from a quarter full to empty. And then some seemed to be fairly consistent throughout the entire gauge face. Until you actually do a mileage check, its a stab in the dark to know whether your car is using too much fuel. Then again, a lot of that is based on how you drive the car, tire pressures, the terrain you drive on, stop and go versus highway driving, etc.

JMWarren, I think you've hit on the problem cause and the required fix. I've never had to dig in to one of these, but as my wife's last ES and her present ES both have this feature, I'd be most interested in what you find is the culprit and the steps to fix it. Get back to us when you complete the job, will you?

You obviously have to get codes read to narrow down the problem. I have a 90 Nissan 300ZX from the same era that requires reading the codes from the flashing leds on the ECU. I suspect that your ES will be similar. So you need to get Pep Boys or a tech person to determine which code system you have, where the ECU is located, and have them read the codes. Its a crap shoot other than that. You really have no other way to start narrowing down the problem, other than considering what the smog tech guys might have disconnected. Then again, maybe its just coincidence that your issue started just after the test. Check the O2 sensor connectors, or the MAS sensor to see if they disconnected anything under the hood. Is a vacuum line been disconnected? It may have been done purposely to get you back to their shop for a rip off fix, or as I said, it just may be coincidence. Good Luck!