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Hey those pics are good so far !! just need some words to connect them now. I had the same prob too when changing my spring/shocks. The bump stops were worn (and tornon the left) so the car was sitting 70mm from the road. Had them replaced with poly urethane stops so they never tear again. I'd like a copy of the final product for this doco as my rears are due for a rebuild. Bilstein, ahh such a great long term money saver =)

I attempted this ages ago as I wanted to switch to the analog display (so I could adapt an aftermarket 300km guage) But basically the wiring is setup very different from the analog to digital, I'm sure it can be done but you'd need to know japanses and have good electronics knowledge as it's not as simple as plug in the new unit and your done. anythings possible

I think there's some mis-information here. 91-93 models had the reverse light in the centre of each of assembly. 94-95 had it (reverse light) on the bottom inner corner. 95+ took the full inner part of the assembly. I drive a '94 and am abotu to clear the taillights as well. I've already blackened my front lights, now to clear the rears !!

Hi Guys, I just bought a 2nd hand autometer air/fuel ratio guage. It came out of a GTi-R pulsar and I'll be throwing it into my 1jz '94 Soarer. Has anyone installed these before and if so, where is the air/fuel wire that goes into the ECU ? The closest I've seen is to find the sensor and tap in there. Has anyone installed a similar guage of any brand before. If so, where does the 3rd wire go ? The autometer site is pathetic for tech instructions. <_< :whistles:

*tears* 5 speed gearboxes are now a myth in australia. No more left, would love to get my stumpy fingers on one. The auto just isn't cutting it anymore.

I'm planning on doing this, thanks for the info regarding the 2jge and gte differences.. Is there any other internal differences apart from the oil squirters ?

I found it was cheaper to do it myself. After changing all the usual bits and pieces you remove the EFI fuse and replace it a few min's later. This will reset factory ECU to original specs adn computer will start relearning again. Good way of settings the computer to learn with all the new bits and pieces thrown in.

supposedly there are two different types of Mobil1, the stuff you buy in the 5ltr bottles or the ones that come in gallens. They both a labelled the same but supposedly the gallens have a more lower rating 5W-

Ms Emerald has one on her SC400, perhaps ask her where she got it from.. here's her URL Pic of her car: http://www.importtoys.com/STUFF/DriftGirl.gif http://www.importtoys.com/emerald/emimport1.htm Her Homepage: http://www.MsEmerald.com

would that be of any use on the 2.5 1jz ?

Rims are a very personal thing, it makes up a large portion of the image you give out about yourself/ryde. :P I would give me opinion that those rims are too 'racey' as I prefer the dish style setup on the Sc430, it compliments the chunkyness of the body. :D End of the day, it's really up to you cause if you're not a 100% on the rims then don't get em else you'll be stuck with them for a long time ! :(

Is it a metal antenna ? looks like a mobile phone one or just a short plastic bit ? Sounds to me like a remnents of a GPS system.

Sounds like there *may* be a air bubble in your fluid, but general the steering in the SC's are stiff, turning circle is fairly wide also 12.1m turning cirle I think from memory. :P I look at it being more a good thing then bad, e.g. 200km+ driving, you don't want to tap the steering only to have it do a half circle because of high sensitivity. :( <_< The majority of those GT cup cars don't have power steering installed to improve sensitivity to the road for drivers though I don't wanna do that with 255's on

jdmSoarer - is that actually your car ? <_< Please tell me it is !! :magic:

From the stock ECU you can milk upto 600hp with piggy back units (S-AFC, delimiter, RSM etc). :P This is from a Supra or a Soarer, I'm not sure about the whole engine conversion thingy as I'm sure you'll have to install an aftermarket ECU. If you do with with a SC300 it shouldn't be too bad as you'll still have your dash. :D The boys downunder with the digital dash soarers lose all their display and get so many faults appearing because of the change. <_< Sorry I'm not much help, just telling from what I've seen.

2JZ-GE + turbo Package + 1JZ-GTE head installed with HKS metal head gasket = The base for a 700hp beast

AWJ - if you get signed up with Lexus, let me know when they require a test driver for their prototype cars :D

This is very debateable, from personal preference I ditched the BFI setup and put a HKS rampod filter in. I then made a seperate section for air to get in for it. THis worked well for me, as for dyno comparison, well I don't know, to me 1-2kw difference isn't really a difference. my 2 cents Kent Brockman signing off...

It is possible, is your camry HU security coded ? if so then don't really bother. Other then that if you are determined to install it then you'll have to either get a workshop manual to figure the wires or sit there with the multimeter and work it out.

to my understanding, they are all the same. But just throw a post up on the following forum to confirm. Unfortunately I'm not the one arranging this. ALSC Clear Side Indicators Thread

check your owners manual, I'm not sure where they are located for your model.

then how do you explain the vvtl-i ?

I bought it for lastability, mines done 200,000km+ and I still don't have to change the turbos, neither of them is smoked out (just slight). Just follow the rule to change oil & filter every 5000k, not just oil and you'll have a car that'll last the ages.

As for your aircon, if the noise sounds like a huge fan blowing then that's normal, but if oyu get a screeching or squeel like a bearing is missing then I suggest first to gease the wheel carefully to see if it removes the noise, try not to get any on the belt as it will eventually cause it to crack.

I'm guessing yours is an auto, a trick I learnt is that if you floor it like you did the power to the wheels is lost in the gearbox. Don't ask me to explain it as I was half clued when someone told me. Basically the gearbox doesn't allow all the power to go down to the wheels, the best way around this to kill that dead spot is to throttle at about 75% from start then once you feel your past around 50km/h you start pushing down further (no instantly) this will give you smooth powerful acceleration. I've compared it against a friends soarer when both of ours were stock and this method was the winner, of course there are so many other things to take into consideration but generally this was the best way to put the power down without losing soo much torque on the lower end trying to get it up.