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check under the seat, there should be a wire running down under the carpet, if it isn't there then chances are you got one without power seats. I've got the same setup where buttons don't work, I asked around on ALSC and they said it's just a standard production seat. One way of telling whether it was fitted on your car is to look for two buttons which say 1 & 2, these are the seat memory buttons.

My Soarer was imported from a company called TBO in Japan, it was about to be built to be a desert racer but they found a smick TT supra to project on so I snapppd it from them (through a friend) before any additionla mods made the car unregistrable. I did mentioned about getting a carbon fibre bonnet but the only detterent apart from the price of it was that they dont' ship overseas. I know this isn't much help but might give you more direction to check out some of the places in japan as downunder in OZ, anything like that invites the cops to defect me. (if they can catch me)

mah gawd !! that's beautiful !!! take it !!.. I want one of those L badged steering centres, anyone wanna swap a Soarer badged one for a L ?

Well dude, if you want to satisfy your thirst for power then perhaps follow some alternatives. You COULD buy the supra (geez I won't knock back one like everyone else here) but then again you've dumped 40k and still got a standard car back with VVTi on it which will make it a !Removed! to hack up for power. I'd be more persuaded to get the SC400 at a cheap price then once I get bored with the V8 I'd buy a Supra TT motor and gearbox then do the conversion. You'll then have heaps of bang and luxury to back it up. You'll save money in the long run and the conversion won't be too hard as the 2jz is already a native to the JZZ/UZZ engine bay. And none will guess it when they see a SC400 badged car roll up purring only to be dusted off by a TT screaming for attention at the wheels. This should help you hold the "American Muscle has nothing on me" trophy. Well that's my 2cents, this is Kent Brockman signing off.

1) any difference in chassis from sourer vs. sc300 There is next to nothing in difference apart frmo just a few luxury's that don't appear in the SC300 but do in the Soarer, one thing I did find was the dash display, SC300-Analog Soarer-Digital and there is no way of converting from either !!! There are a few other little bits and pieces but for what you want to do I guess it would come down to personal choice. SC300 - less luxury and options. ;) Soarer - Seems to have almost all of them. SC400 - Always loaded. :P 2) how much weight difference is there from sourer to sc300 The main difference in weight is the engine, the SC300 comes in the 3ltr 2jz motor, the Soarer comes in the 2.5ltr 1jz motor. From memory the curb weight for a Soarer is somewhere just shy of 1600kg (phat boy). But when you start removing alot of the luxurys you'll get a lighter car, a good point of reduction is the doors !! they weigh 50kg+ each side so some carbon fibre replacements will do the trick in lightening and I believe evening it out for drift application. B) 3) how much does the sc300 weigh without driver See above. :) 4) is there a better year to get for the sc300 ive noticed 92-99 just wondering if some years are worse or better then others. Try for a July+ 93 model. Majority of the ECU problems have been ironed out (see the model differences chart somewhere). If you are looking at replacing ECU all together then I guess you choice is to VVTi(95+) or not VVti(95-). <_< Hope this answers your questions and please keep me in the loop about your project as I've read a little about doing the change over myself. Someone needs to put those Nissan kiddie drifters in their place. :D

Washers and gaskets for the lines, and some brake fluid.

compared the prices ? $100USD for the clearcorners version (and you still have to send your originals to them) or $78AUD for the same thing but you get to keep your lights. I guess it's a case of how bad do you want them. <_<

us guys down here are getting together to group buy these clear side indicators.. the cost for us is $78 (+shipping I think) so convert that from AUD to USD and you'll find it's really really cheep =) here is the thread, signup and put yourname down. ALSC - Clear Side Indicators @ $78 AUD

yep :P Mine's a 4/94 and it came with almost everything that you wanted except for the 5speed.. Further down the track when I get the funding I'll be switching over to either 5spd manual or auto (not sure if the 95+ 5spd auto's bolt in without problems)

actually guys, the black interior came out in the '94 models. :P That's where the production began, I think the '95 released the first black leather interior. Those tail lamps start for the late late '93 model through till the end of '95 i think. <_< They are the only ones you can easiley convert to clear taillights (see clearcorners.com for example). I have the same tailights and want to do the conversion but I would like to change the bulbs to high powered and colored LEDs to replace. My only problem is I don't know here to start !!!

whatever you do don't use dexron type 2 that'll cause some bad shuddering in the engine.

do you have a analog display or digital display for your speed ?

:whistles: I suggest you clean the outside of the light first before opening it up. Chances are it's all surface and nothing inside. I found out the hard way as I opening a perfectly sealed light when then started to condense. (fixed it though) Just wipe it down a few hundred times with a plastic cleaner till you get the result that you want. :magic:

heya, if your looking at removing your induction that goes under your headlight then you'll have to remove your headlight also. Apart from the bolts/nuts you visually see from the top view there are also another two hidden inside the wheel arch. I'll try to explain this the best I can. Either take your wheel off or turn it full lock in. unscrew the plastic inside the wheel arch exposing the insides of the front section of your side panels. You'll then notice two bolts next to the indicator which you undo then the light will simply popout. To take the headlight itself apart you'll ahve to melt the glue. Just throw it in the oven for a few minutes but not too long as you don't want to melt your entire assembly. When the glue is soft enough you'll be able to pry the lens off, there are 3 sections the lens, the chrome bit inside and the rear backing. To reassemble, do the reverse.

heya meddle, I guess it wouldn't do any harm. what engine are youl ooking at throwing in ?

Mine started out like this, the lights were yellows so I took them apart to clean. I found once apart that it WAS clean which ment I destroyed a perfectly good seal. Then came the condesation, the way I worked around was I took the light out and let it dry in the sun for a day then laid another coat of nogaps on the outside of the edges and buttered it evenly across. This has since fixed my problem as it's completely dry inside and airtight also (with the exception if the bulb sockets).