GuyTelefunken

If your ECU is bad, this is what Lexus will likely want to do: Replace: ECU $1,579.03 2 Master Keys - $338.00 ($169.00) Valet Key - $49.51 Total parts = $1,966.54 plus Labor They keys are locked to the ECU and cannot be reprogrammed to a different ECU. The basic problem with the used ECU is that you will not be able to put it into programming mode unless you have the ignition cylinder and at least one programmed master key from the car that the used part came from. Even if you did, it will have different key cuts than your car so it will not let you insert and turn your keys to program them. (There are rumors around the water cooler that somebody has the ability to reprogram a used ECU, but I wouldn't know how to find someone to do it.) If the keys that physically turn the locks in your car are not programmed to the ECU, the engine will not start.

I used Lexus FIPG on my transmission pan, on a '98 GS300. I ordered it from Lexus. It is pink, with a consistency slightly heavier than toothpaste. I believe it was Three Bond 1281 FIPG. I could not find it anywhere but the dealer.

J.U.N.K. P.S. I do not agree with the notion to place star washers under any connections. The plating on virtually all the common hardware readily available in the US today, i.e. washers, screws, nuts, etc., is garbage when compared to that of the hardware specified by the engineers at Lexus. I have seen cases where owners have tried to "improve" what the Japanese have already spent time perfecting only to create more problems. When a car is manufactured, often special plating and painting techniques are used to protect the conductivity of each connection point. This attention to detail, I.M.H.O., is difficult to duplicate and often overlooked.

California legal systems differ slightly from what is required in the other 49 states. The differences vary by car. The only real difference I can find on the California model is that the downstream O2 sensor, yes the one you are working on, is heated. California_Federal_Emissions.pdf

The octane rating of the fuel should have no real effect on the cleanliness of the filter. Soaking and elbow grease are the main ingredients to removal of anything rusted.. PB Blaster is one of my favorites as well.

It is indeed part of the fuel pump. Although the pump assembly can be removed from the tank and disassembled, Lexus claims it is designed to last the life of the car.

Yes. You are on the right track.

Although I don't have any advice for your problem at this time, I am curious about your previous ECU replacement. What was the problem in the past that required the ECU to be replaced?

If the lamp is working, all signs point to the module. Code_22.pdf SRS_Code_Display_And_Clearing.pdf

If the alignment of the roof panel is not flush within service manual spec., it can be noisy. There is a bit of audible noise with the inner panel open, but it should not be distracting. I can say that the GS sunroof is not the quietest among other makes, particularly when open.

The only thing you may lose is the radio presets and seat/mirror memory. As slate67 suspected, the idle and initial driveability may be a bit odd as the ECM reestablishes adaptive settings. Keys do not lose their programming during a battery change.

This is normal. Hydraulic pressure in the GS is provided by a pump. After depressing the brake several times, the pump will cycle on.

This is it on your '02. PCV_Valve.pdf

I'm going to guess you are hearing the VSC warning chime. Since the ABS light is on as well, I would suspect a bad wheel speed sensor/wiring. You need a scantool to monitor the individual wheel speeds and point you in the right direction as to the cause.

The stock amp powers all the speakers. Check the following fuses: Radio No. 1, 20A - Engine Room No. 1 Junction Block Dome, 10A - Driver Side Junction Block, in kickpanel under dash Radio No. 2, 15A - Passenger Side Junction Block, in kickpanel under dash

With the key on, engine off, set the parking brake. Move the shifter into "D" or lower. Open and pull out the entire ashtray assembly (including the trim around it). Disconnect the wire to the lighter socket and set the ashtray aside. Open the center console. Grip the rear edges of the wooden console trim with your fingers and pull upward about two inches. Disconnect the three connectors from the switches mounted in the wooden panel. Pull the wooden panel upward and away from the dash. The cupholder is fastened to the panel with screws. You will likely find something stuck in it, such as change, etc. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Don't be surprised if one or more of the lamps in the switches just happens to burn out after reassembly. This often happens when the panel is bumped during servicing. If you are unlucky, you will need to order the bulbs for the appropriate switch(s) from a Lexus parts dept. Lexus is the only source of the correct lamps.

We use these boys quite a bit. LKQ They might only sell to a garage though. The up side is they tend to be reasonably priced and have a good selection.

It is part of the MAF sensor. These mods are usually not worth the trouble they can cause I.M.H.O.

They do not look like standard Lexus wiring, nor are they of colors associated with this area of the car. They look like aftermarket wire colors from a remote-start or alarm system. The white nylon cable tie is a dead giveaway. Follow the cables and look for aftermarket garbage.

You need to identify the source. If you see antifreeze all the way in the back, I'd advise putting the car on a lift and looking for the source. You may have a leak in some other area as well.

Two likely possibilities. A. Your air conditioner is not working properly or at all. The A/C compressor must function with the defrost on, it normally turns itself on when defrost is selected. Also make sure outside air is selected rather than recirculate. Selecting recirculate will not let the A/C remove moisture from the air inside the car as efficiently as outside air. B. Your heater core may be leaking antifreeze. If this was the case, you should smell antifreeze inside the car. Additionally, you may notice a drop in coolant level.

ABS sensor is the same as Wheel Speed Sensor. Using a scan-tool is the only way to verify proper operation of the wheel speed sensors. Check the operation of all (4) sensors with a scan-tool. Repair/replace sensors/wiring as necessary. Clear any codes with the scan-tool. If your battery cable was loose, it certainly could cause the car to stall.

TPS Adjustment TPS_Adjustment.pdf

Looks like connector IK2, for the HVAC system. I have no pinout data on that connector.

You need a front wheel speed sensor. The only way to find out which or both is with a scantool.