GuyTelefunken

When the MIL is on, you must check for codes. If the VSC Off indicator is also lit, I would suspect a problem with the throttle position sensor or accelerator position sensor.

You are correct, the SSC is not applicable to your problem unless you had a problem with a rear door. The assembly is replaced including it's component parts for the rear only, not the front. I don't believe you ever mentioned if your problem was in the front or the back. There is no TSB or SSC related to the steering motor to my knowledge.

P0441 and P0446 do go hand in hand. The diagnsostic charts are below. P0430 can be a sign of a bad cat. Sometimes an O2 sensor and/or circuit is the problem. You need an OBDII compliant scantool to look at the oxygen sensor signals. P0441_P0446.pdf P0430.pdf

Lex01_430, can you tell me where you purcahse your aftermarket door actuator kit? Thank you. Perhaps it's none of my business, but I continue to wonder why people that drive the finest cars on this planet begrudge the price of parts. Usually, it is after years and thousands of miles of troublefree service that one of our cars needs something. All of the sudden, people become bargain shoppers. I find this attitude particularly irritating in my shop where removing the aftermarket crap that people "improve" their cars with is a weekly occurence. That being said, Toyota products have been designed with the utmost care and attention to detail. Often, replacing a seemingly simple part with another which was not specifically designed for the purpose, will lead to more problems down the road. More often than not, it is more trouble in the end than if the part would have just been replaced with the proper one. If you value a continued, virtually trouble-free relationship with your car, do it and yourself a favor. Do it once and do it right. On a related note... There is (was?) a service campaign having to do with some 1998 model GS300 & GS400 models for the rear door latches. Under the campaign, affected cars will have the rear door latches replaced and the front latches inspected and/or replaced. The cited problem is that the interior lamp may not illuminate when a door is opened. The switch is in the latch assembly. So I suppose, if your car falls within the affected VIN range and you are having a door locking problem....and you just happen to nitice your interior lamp does not always illuminate...ahem...you may have a chance of getting it fixed under the provisions of the campaign. Special_Service_Campaign_XL1.pdf

Please read the rules at the top of the Buy & Sell page.

In the post are the correct procedures for diagnosing the P0125 code. Also included is the procedure for replacing the thermostat if you should so choose to do it. I personally don't think it's your problem, but that is only my opinion. P0125_Diagnosis.pdf Confirmation_Driving_Pattern.pdf Thermostat_Replacement.pdf

The kit is $20.12 MSRP from Lexus. You can find it at Hoy Fox Parts.

You can run the diagnostic check on the AC system. Look here.

Find a competant mechanic. It sounds like you may be a victim of the "trial and error" repair technique. The evap system has good diagnostics capabilities. Unfortunately, several tools are required to diagnose problems properly. Not to mention, experience and knowledge. I would bet money that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the computer. I have seen only a very, very small number of bad ECU's in almost 35 years of car repair. Not one was Japanese.

The GS300 starter comes out from the bottom. There is no need to loosen anything but the transmission dipstick bracket bolt. Lexus MSRP is $248.05 for a new starter and it takes about an hour for a GS300 to change it. The GS4X0 is a whole different story. It's much more involved.

The injection system is rediculously simple. When the problem manifests itself, I have 12V at EA2 (see .pdf). Therefore, I must assume that the ECM is not commanding the injectors on because some condition of starting is not being met. What I need now is a definitive list of things that must be present for the ECM to command the injectors on. I have confirmed the following: Crankshaft Position Sensor - OK Camshaft position Sensor - OK Fuel Pump Control Module - OK Fuel Pressure - OK DTC's - None What else is there? Injection.pdf

I have the lab scope hooked up to the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil (cylinder 1) and fuel injector (cylinder 1). Finally, the car decides to not start while connected to the scope. All signals are good except the injection. The injectors are not firing. Ahh, the question is why?

Hey, how about we split the proceeds?

It's probably leaves or other debris in your fan. Open the glovebox, remove the access panel at the top edge in the back of the box. Look inside. There is a door inside behind which is the interior air filter. Grasp the handles on the door and wiggle it free. Pull the filter straight out. Be careful, if it hasn't been serviced lately, it may have a large quantity of dirt on the top side. If you find it is full of junk, clean it with a shop vac as well as the interior of the slot where the filter goes. While you're cleaning the opening vary the fan speed from off to high to help dislodge any debris. It'd be a good time to replace the filter. The filter element only, without the plastic frame, is the most economical from your dealer.

One OEM master key on my keyring, as usual. I'm going by way of CKP or MAF sensor. Of course, the engine will not start or run with the CKP disconnected. Now the MAF sensor is another story. According to spec., the car should start and run with substituted values when the MAF sensor is not connected. Here's what I have found: Starting attempts: 50 Start and stall: 9 Start and continue: 31 No start: 10 Interesting. I would have assumed that it would start each and every time. I just can't figure that one out. --------------------------- The explaination of idle control, from service data: Idle_Speed.pdf

My understanding of the IACV is that is has little do due with idle or starting (see attached service data.) I can command the VSV on or off with my scantool. I can clearly hear it open and close. As I understand it, idle speed is controlled by the throttle plate angle, not the IACV - Intake Air Control Valve. Furthur: The timing belt has not been changed so I can rule out accidental damage in that area. A major obsticle in diagnosing this problem is th inability of my scan tool (Snap-On Modis) to record live data while the engine is starting. It seems that most/all? scan tools cannot communicate with the ECM during starting; only before of after the engine is running. I talked at length to the Lexus technician and he concurs that the Lexus scan tool suffers the same issue. I have confirmed that when the no start condition is present, the engine will crank for an infinate time on the first try. That is to say that holding the key to start for 30 seconds or more will not produce even a hint of combustion. If there was a fuel pressure problem I would think that the engine would attempt to start and stumble. If there was a problem with the MAF, I would expect the same. The data I get from the MAF both before and after starting is consistantly stable. IACV.pdf

Replaced the fuel pump. Problem remains. I'm back to square one.

Where are you getting this price?That is correct for the black one 98-00 but I beleive the chrome one is sold with all the surroundings for about 350. Hoy Fox Of course, my info is only as good as their info. Interestingly, there is no listing from 02-05 and the price is different for 98-00. Best to call.

Sounds like the hard drive died. You boys in the Bahamas sure have a lot of trouble. Are you sure your not too close to the Bermuda triangle?

Sure sounds like a dying LCD screen to me. I've seen this happen in other products, but not in a Lexus. Are you friendly with the dealer? How many miles do you have on the car, warranty? Hope your dealer is friendly because the Nav./CLimate control unit is in the $5,000.00 range for a new one.

The factory chrome piece for a 2001 thru 2005 is $19.42 MSRP. It will "likely" fit 1998 thru 2005.

The patient: 1998 GS300, 105K miles The symptoms: The cold crank time is noticeably longer than usual. To avoid undue wear on the recently replaced starter, I will crank the engine for approx. 5 seconds. On the second attempt, the engine will start, idle poorly and at reduced rpm, chug and die. On the third attempt the engine will start and idle normally. The engine can now be restarted an infinate number of times without any problem. After a cool down period, say >2 hours, the problems will occur again. The car is regularly serviced so items like filters, fluids, battery state of charge, etc. are in good shape. Since I running short on ideas, I thought I'd give a Lexus dealer a shot at this. They started with the computer, of course no codes or misfires recorded. They cleaned the throttle body (even though I had it !Removed!'n'span). They removed and inspected the spark plugs. They were original and in top shape but nevertheless replaced as it was time per normal maintenence. Spark plug well #6 was found to be partially filled with engine oil which ran down from the oil fill area. The thought was that maybe spark plug #6 was being affected by the pooled oil. At this point, they thought the problem was licked. The car started fine 3 times over a 6 hour period. The next morning, crank, chug, die. Any suggestions or similar experiences would be appreciated. Currently, the car is still at the stealer....er...you know. Therefore, I need to make a decision to let them continue guessing or to bring it back and study it myself. I'm thinking that residual fuel pressure is dropping but they claim they checked it and it's A.O.K. I am somewhat familiar with the returnless fuel system having only one fuel line from the pump to the rail but I do not know where the check valve is to prevent drainback to the tank. Is the check valve integral to the replaceable pump or is it in the pump housing?

There is nothing to worry about as the spring and shock are handled as an assembled unit. the only way to hurt yourself without removing the nut on the end that holds it all together, is perhaps by dropping it on your foot.

Found in the service manual.

P0141 is a code for an oxygen sensor, specifically Bank 1 Sensor 2. The price seems about right. Of course, I could be more specific if you had listed the year of your car. Bank_1_Sensor_2_Location.pdf