GuyTelefunken

No problem. Did it solve your vibration issue? What many people don't realize is that it does no good to mount a perfect rotor on an imperfect hub surface. Many times a slight vibration can be cured by only changing the position of the rotor with no need to do any surfacing to the rotor at all. It is harder to make a customer believe (and pay) when you tell them that you just rotated the rotors and fixed their problem. In fact, I have a family member that is a mechanic fo over forty years and I told him this. He replied that it was a total waste of time and laughed at me. I pity the poor souls that bring their cars to his shop.

Wow you did get a little busting on the last thread. I particularly liked the one about the pencil Oh yes, and don't worry about that one member's idea that the car might run differently when the fuel drops to a low level. I've serviced thousands and thousands of cars from every corner of the known universe and I have personally never witnessed or heard of something even remotely similar to that. You definately seem to have a legitimate problem and deserve a legitimate solution.

There are two fuel level senders, the main on the driver's side and the sub-sender on the passenger's side. Both are replaceable seperately in the GSxxx from 1998 on. They are about $67.00 each Lexus MSRP. As far as running out of fuel when the gauge still registers fuel in the tank. It is possible that your fuel pump is failing. Typically, when the level of fuel drops to a certain point, the fuel pump is no longer immersed in gasoline. When this occurs, the pump temperature will begin to rise. (Gasoline is the coolant for the electrical fuel pump motor. Sounds safe doesn't it?) As the motor in the pump ages, it can sieze when it gets too hot. If the senders pass the test, then suspect the fuel pump; particularly if you have a lot of miles on the car.

There are many, many, hundreds of codes that will illuminate the check engine light. Many faults take a certain amount of time or number of driving cycles before a code will be set and the MIL (Multifunction Indicator Lamp) will be lit. Incidentally, the technical term "MIL" is what technicians sometimes refer to the check engine light as. Unfortunately, you have to visit the computer once again and see what the problem is now. It is entirely possible that the original problem was misdiagnosed, therefore not corrected by replacing so many parts. As well, one of the parts may have failed.

This statement about the longevity of an oxygen sensor is absolutely false. The length of time an oxygen sensor will last depends on many factors. There is absolutely no validity to this. I recommend that you visit your dealer and demonstrate the problem to them. Oxygen sensor performance as well as the operating condition of every other component of the car can be accessed with Lexus computer diagnostics. It is pointless to replace parts with no indication of their condition. Furthuremore, if you had a problem with an oxygen sensor or other major engine control systems component the check engine light would likely be illuminated. In the rare case that the specific problem is going undetected by the onboard computer, a code or codes may still be set in it. As far as replacing "the sensor" as another member suggests, in this car there are four. The total MSRP from Lexus for the four sensors is over $600.00 plus tax and labor. It seems rediculous to replace parts which very likely have nothing to do with your problem. The problem you have has to do with throttle response, or lack thereof. If this were Jeep land, I would point you to the throttle position sensor. Usually in Lexusville, a failure or fault in this component or one related to it will illuminate the check engine, and VSC off lamp simultaneously. In rare cases, it can still be faulty with no indicators. This component is one of the many possible causes to your problem that can easily be checked with the appropriate computer diagnostics.

Capacity is 1.43 US quarts. It should be filled while level.

The copper pipes are most likely the cable guides which guide the left and right cables from each side track to the motor. They are an unlikely source of a leak.

Highly unlikely. To test the theory, turn the VSC off and drive it.

It is perfectly acceptable to have all the weights on the inside. Lexus wheels are specifically designed to not have an exterior wheel weight lig. It just plain looks better. With an accurate balancer being operated by a skilled operator, balancing wheels in this was is perfectly ok. A complete and thorough brake job will most likely eliminate both the shake and pull. You may have a sticking caliper or other hardware missing or damaged. There are several clips, shims, and springs which must all be present and in the proper position for the brakes to work correctly. Also, cutting the rotors is not a twenty minute job as a majority of mechanics make it out to be. The rotors should be cut only on a properly calibrated brake lathe, meticulously measured and indexed at all five possible mounting positions on the hub to ensure the smallest possible runout in the mounted assembly. This takes time. For me, it takes about three hours per axle to do properly. I made a post on this procedure here. As well, the balance should be checked and the roundness of the tires if vibration is persistant. A road-force wheel balancer is ideal for this purpose. Of course a four wheel alignment isn't a bad idea either. During the alignment, any worn parts in the steering or suspension can be identified. These parts could have to do with the pulling you describe, particularly if the car does not track straight without the brakes being applied. When all is well, the car should track straight and be able to be brought to a stop in a fairly straight line without even holding onto the steering wheel. This effect can vary somewhat depending on the road surface of course.

You left 2 hours and 55 minutes pass before you started complaining about nobody answering your post. Relax. This is not your answer only forum. Nevertheless, I will tell you where it is. ECU.pdf

There is a TSB on the sunroof motor of certain cars depending on the VIN. The dealer may be right. Check your VIN against those in the attached .pdf. The motor MSRP is $521.30 USD and available for $443.11 USD here. Alternatively, you may find a used motor bearing the updated production date indicated in the TSB. The motor can usually be accessed by removing the interior light roof console. The replacement must be installed in the same operational position as the original. i.e. If the roof is closed when the motor is removed the replacement motor must be run to the closed position before attaching it to the roof assembly. The shaft may or may not be keyed as to allow the motor only to be installed in this correct position. Sunroof_TSB.pdf

Auto Direct Save has them for $89.00 each with free shipping, pick D2R from the dropdown box. I don't have experience with them, but the site seems legit. Look around the net, lots of places have them.

The part number for the lamp from lexus is 90981-20001 @ $318.21 List EACH. Keep in mind that this is a brand name bulb, not some cheap aftermarket replacement. Keep in mind, not all aftermarket lamps are equal, such is demonstrated in the difference in price. Generally, lifespan is shorter on cheaper bulbs as well. If you want to go cheap, make sure you get two of the same bulbs. The $40.00 bulb will definately be a different brightness and color (no matter which K temp you choose) than the used original. If you look a little furthur, you will find that the OEM Lexus bulbs have a color temperature of 4300K, which is white as compared to the cheap replacements which are more blue. The color gets more blue as the K temperature gets higher. Also the light output in lumens decreases as the color gets more blue. The reason Lexus and some other manufactures use a lower color temperature is that the human eye is less sensative to blue light than white, which contains a more even mixture of all colors. But the reality is, consumers want more blue. Blue is cheaper and offshore manufacturers thrive on cheap. Good brands of lamps are Sylvania Osram and Philips. Philips can be found for about a third of the Lexus price. Even if you choose to use a better bulb, you will probably need to do both due to differences in color and intensity from aging. Replacement is fairly straightforward. Make sure the light switch is off and the keys are out of the ignition. There is some high voltage present when starting the lamps, wouldn't want to fry yourself. Remove the back lamp housing cover, it twists off. Remove the socket and release the bulb from the locking mechanism. Some have a wire retainer and some have a rotating nut. Be careful not to touch the glass portion of the new bulb. If you do, clean it with alcohol and let it dry before reinstalling.

Must be starter month. So many topics about them lately... The GS3xx starter is cake compared to the GS4xx. A very long extension "24-36" and a (16mm?) socket with a built-in swivel and it comes out and goes in like any other. The trick is to access the top bolt with the extension from the drivers side of the transmission. I used the longest extensions I had so that I could approach the bolt head from almost the extreme tail end of the transmission. The longer the extension, the straighter you can aim for the bolt head. You may find it helpful to remove the bolt securing the upper end of the transmission dipstick bracket before you begin. The dipstick tube can then be moved out of your way.

It's just the way it goes. Depending on what position the solenoid and armature stops in, the last time the car was started, it may or may not work on subsequent attempts. For instance, when you get the click-click no-start. The old-mechanic's trick is to lightly tap on the starter with a hammer. It works more times than you can imagine. The explaination is simple: If the parts inside the starter come to rest in a worn position, the starter will not work on the next attempt. By tapping the starter, the internal parts move ever so slightly past the worn spot and voilla! ...starts right up. Heat and cold can also affect the position of the internal parts and the clearances between them.

Check your climate control unit for codes. See the link below. Look here at this previous thread. Your problem may have a different cause than that in the indicated thread, but you can perform the diagnostic procedure and perhaps get an idea of what's causing your problem.

Save yourself a lot of trouble. Buy a remanufactured starter at any auto parts store. The instructions for changing are the same. Gaskets on the throttle body and intake manifold should be replaced and all fasteners must be torqued properly. The gaskets are available from Lexus.

The pins to which you refer can be found here if you want to mail order. There is not necessarily a Toyota equiv. Hey, where's all the parts guys in the forum? The oil plug gasket is aluminum core between fiber. Plain aluminum or fiber will work as well. It is 1/2" in the English world or M12 (metric) internal diameter everywhere else. Toyota should have one to fit. Just measure it. The above online dealer would have the correct Lexus gaskets as well, but I didn't find them on their site. You'd have to call them. They might even be nice and provide the part numbers! They have been good to me in the past. White lithium grease would be ok on the sunroof rails IMHO, but be sure to clean off the crud if you can. Clear silicone lube on a rag works nicely.

Ah yes, there is a fan and clutch in the '93. (My service data was wrong again.) There is also an electric fan in the front. The clutch on the engine fan is a possible cause to your problem. Make sure you don't have a coolant flow problem, check the heat set on hi with the car warmed up. If the heat coming from the vents is not hot-hot, expect a flow problem. I.E. water pump, air in the system, blockage. You never did exactly say under what conditions the problem of overheating occurs, at what outside temperatures, or during what kind of driving, etc. This info would be helpful. If in fact the clutch was your only problem, the car should not overheat while driving 55MPH on a cool day, at least until you stop for instance. When the car is moving, the natural flow of air over the radiator would cool it. You see why it is important to know exactly how, when, and where your problem occurs.

Uh, correct me if I'm wrong but I don't seem to remember the '93 GS as having a mechanical fan; hence no fan clutch. The electric fan should be kicking in with the AC engaged and some time after when the engine has reached 190 - 207 deg. F. If the fan isn't working, check the temperature sensor and the fan relays. If the coolant isn't flowing, one radiator hose will be much colder than the other one. If this is the case, it's either the thermostat or the water pump. The system may boil over with the radiator cap removed as it is a closed, pressurized system. When the system is closed, the increased pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. When the system is open, the boiling point is reduced and the coolant expands. Therefore, it can expand to the point where is overflows the system.

The KYB GR-2 seem to work well for me. They are a little stiffer than stock, but not much. Fronts are $86.00/ea and the rears are $96.00/ea at Tirerack. I feel that the roll was reduced dramatically when I added the TRD anti-roll bars both front and rear. The TRD Sportivo anti-roll bars (sway bars) set me back about $300.00. They were well worth it in my opinion. Of course, there are many other types at various prices. I found them on Ebay.

I feel you will be wasting your time. Everything should be dissassembled, cleaned, serviced and lubricated as necessary. Also consider what SK has recommended.

Lexii have CV joints but they are in the rear. Have the front brakes serviced. This includes cleaning and lubricating the calipers, surfacing the rotors if the have a rusty edge or scoring and/or replacing the pads including the anti-rattle shims, spring clips and wire springs that mechanics seem to always neglect. If every part is not to Lexus spec, and present, I have found all types of noises to be the case. The clicking is often caused by missing clips, shims, or springs. It is caused by the pads moving in the caliper when changing direction. The grinding can be several things most likely a buildup of rust and brake crud on the rotor edge surfaces or calipers.

As was replied in your other post on exactly this topic, look on Ebay. There are lots of them there. Tip. If nobody replied to your post from 4 days ago, posting the same thing again will not likely improve your odds of a response.

What makes you say that all Lexus dealers were supposed to align their pricing?