GuyTelefunken

No separate start injector. The PCM directly controls injector pulse width based on ambient & coolant temperature and intake air density & temperature.

After the caliper and pads are out of the way and you loosen the emergency brake pads inside the rotor hat, you insert two metric bolts in the threaded holes located 180 deg. apart in the face of the rotor. As you tighten the bolts evenly from side to side, it puts pressure on the hub behind the rotor. The rotor will pop right off. If the rotor is aftermarket, it may not have the holes. In that case, use the sledge on the back side of the rotor. After you whack a rotor with a hammer, it must be replaced. It is not recommended to reuse a rotor that has been subjected to such stress.

There is no code required for the radio.

The ability to program master keys without an existing key depends on the model year. This programming function was added to the Lexus computer for later model years.

This is going to require a computer to program the key(s). I would suggest that you call your dealer, order two master keys, make an appointment, and learn an expensive lesson in the process. Never go without a spare key. Depending on how good of a relationship you have with your dealer, be prepared to pay the towing cost to the dealer as well. I'm sorry if I sound harsh, but unfortunately you have few headache-free options. Since you'd have to consult the dealer to program the key(s) in any case, you might as well get them from the dealer. There is a chance they will be more sympathetic with the price if you do the whole deal through them. The dealer retail is not much more than the price online for what you need. You might want to get it towed to safe storage as quickly as possible since the assailant has your key and probably your address. The good news is, once the new keys are made, the old one will no longer start the car. Unfortunately, the physical part of the old key will still open the door. For the utmost safety, you should have all the locks changed if you cannot recover the old key. Consult your insurance company and ask if they will cover the costs.

Likely, you need a wheel speed sensor. You need to get the car on a computer and check the codes. The codes in the computer should lead you in the right direction.

See this post. If you take back the carpet in the driver's footwell, look under the white plastic air box above the transmission tunnel and see water, this is likely your problem. You would want to check the clear drain first. It's in the same area on the passenger's side.

That would have taught those bad boys in Japan a lesson.

Humm, you seem to be missing the green lamp condom on the transmission mode switch. It should be green like the rest of the switches. You have to carefully unroll the green cover from the old bulb and roll it onto the new one. It's kinda' like putting on a.....well, you know ;) Also, I wonder why you disassembled the heated seat switch to change the (On) indicator bulbs. They easily pull out from the bottom with a needle-nosed pliers. The shift gate lamp is not a standard #74, though you seem to have made it fit. It is in fact a proprietary Japanese bulb measuring .25mm less than a standard #74 in diameter. Usually, a #74 will not lock in properly in a Lexus socket because of the increased diameter. You will find the Lexus bulb tends to snap in a bit better than most #74's. Excellent write up by the way. We need more articles like this.

Replacing the door check, the part that keeps the door from opening too far may give you that like-new feeling. Mine was just worn out and the door swung very freely. Now that it has been replaced, it feels more like new.

It's the brake/shift interlock. It prevents shifting into gear without having your foot on the brake.

I would suggest that you get the car properly diagnosed by a competent mechanic. As you noted, the system is fairly complex and easily misunderstood. Lexus specifies a procedure to check components based on the specific code(s) found in the ECU. Unfortunately, diagnosing Evap issues is way beyond the expertise found at the typical Autozone.

The white smoke indicates coolant is entering the cylinders. This is likely due to a failed cylinder head gasket. This is expensive. A failed head gasket can cause the overheating you are experiencing as well. I would take it to a reputable shop and have them look at it.

Lexus brand rubber mats were never made for that generation of GS. They seem to have been made for every other model, but not that one. I tried for years to get them.

The battery is still a possibility. The CR1616 is not a popular battery and sometimes they sit too long on the shelf. They can be weak when you buy them. If you find an Eveready-brand battery and it's marked "Made In Japan," it's likely you're buying a good battery. I've used all kinds and some brands are just cheap junk.

What exactly is the problem. You have air coming from the selected vents but it is not hot or you have no air blowing at all? If the air is moving but is cold, check the level of your antifreeze first. There is a cold level and a hot level mark on the expansion tank where you fill it. Start the car (from a cold condition) and look in the expansion tank. If it looks empty or nearly empty, fill it up to the cold mark. I would use a 50/50 premixed green antifreeze (assuming you have green in your car already). If the level is ok, let us know and we'll go from there.

Since you didn't mention the year of your car, I'll go out on a limb here and guess it's a pre-1998 model. The wiper fuse is WIPER, 20A located in junction block #1, under the dash below the steering wheel.

Assuming you used a CR1616 battery and it is not upside down or dead, it should work.

The door courtesy lamp is connected to the door ECU in the door. Each door has it's own ECU. I would use a test lamp or meter and make sure there is power at the lamp socket with the door open before going further. Often the door switches in the latch stick/fail and cause no signal to be sent to the door ECU, therefore the lamp does not light. If you have a switch problem, the main ceiling interior lamp would likely not be working with the driver's door as well. The fuse for the driver's door ECU is D FR, 20A located in the engine room #1 fuse block.

The self diagnostics of the SRS ECM would turn off the light automatically if the fault was fixed. Apparently, the problem you thought you fixed was not. Additionally, the SRS ECM is different for a 2001 and a 1999. They are not compatible.

You're in limp home mode. It happens when the actual throttle position and the expected position do not agree. Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for about ten minutes. If that does not fix it, you'll have to hook up a scan tool and clear the codes as well as check that there are no recurring codes. If there are, you'll have to diagnose the cause from there.

The best way to approach it is to hook up a scantool and monitor the coolant temperature data. If the data suggests a smooth rise in temperature, the problem is likely in the cluster/gauge. If the data jumps up rapidly past the warm zone (approx. 180 deg. F, 80 deg. C) then the coolant temperature sensor is suspect, provided the thermostat is working properly. Just curious, which bulbs did you replace?

Get a socket and a universal. Attach them to several feet of extensions and approach the bolt from several feet to the rear of the transmission. The longer the extensions you use, the less angle there will be on the universal at the bolt head.

The most likely problem is that one or both of the wheel speed sensor wires was either damaged or not reconnected. Check the wiring on both sides. A better option for checking and clearing the codes would be a scantool. To view and clear codes without a scan tool, you must access the DLC1 connector. It is located in the junction box under the hood on the drivers side. See the attached files. Sorry about the sloppy way this post looks, there is currently a problem with attaching files. This post is best viewed with Mozilla Firefox.

Possible. It probably isn't worth the trouble to look though. They are fairly specialized yet inexpensive at the stealership.