GuyTelefunken

The actuator/latch/switch assembly is designed as a unit. If any part of it fails, different problems will occur. The best way and by far the easiest is to replace the unit when any failure occurs. Of course, this is also the most expensive way. It's not a difficult job and it doesn't require any special tools. I would wholeheartedly recommend using the Lexus part. If nothing else, it will be something you will do only once. That is until another door acts up. Please pardon my rant, but it seems frivolous to me to put a $5.00 part in the place of a $250.00 dollar part into a car that cost millions to engineer. While it is technically possible to piggyback a cheap actuator to simulate the function of the door lock motor, it is technically challenging. Lexus does not employ solid rods to connect the manual door lock switch to the latch. They use bowden cables similar to bicycle brake cables. There is a small solid rod linking the external cylinder with the latch but it is in a tight location inside the upper corner of the door. There isn't much room to add parts there.

After servicing thousands of cars over the last 30 plus years, I have never heard of replacing the refrigerant in a car for the purpose of preventative maintenance. I can recall just how may vehicles have come into my shop with A/C problems attributed to not changing it. Zero. I learn something new every day.

It's a tight squeeze but if you can get your hand down there, the sockets turn 1/4 turn and pull out the back. The recommended bulb is a European type W5W but a standard 194 works just fine.

As I am enjoying this thread, I come to a question. How do you adjust the idle speed on a car that has no means of adjustment? The idle speed on the vehicle in question is directly controlled by the ECU through modulation of the throttle plate. There is no "idle screw" or even an idle control valve. So how then, is the idle speed adjusted?

I would have to politely disagree with the comment about "protecting the motor." There just isn't any evidence of that being the reason this is done. It should be common knowledge to anyone familiar with emissions and such that the increased idle is merely for purposes of heating the cats. Neither of these things, a choke or starting an engine and maintaining a faster than normally desired idle has anything to do with protecting the engine.

My '98 has almost 120,000 miles on it and there is no wander of any kind. I had three German cars before the Lexus and I have found that the Lexus is the only one that will track perfectly down the highway even you take your hands off of the wheel. I would suggest that you get the suspension/steering system/tires, etc. checked out. There may be worn parts that need attention. For instance, at one time or another in the past I have replaced the following: A. Shocks, all four. B. Front Tierod Ends C. Front Lower Ball Joints Personally, I still get a sense of satisfaction of just how solid and lacking of play my steering still is after almost 10 years. The solidity may be felt as numbness by some people. It certainly is not the same as a BMW while going through the twisties. Note: There is no such thing as a steering pretensioner.

It is not legal to splice, makeshift, or modify any airbag wiring or connector in any vehicle in the USA or elsewhere. If ever you were going to do something right, one of the most important safety systems in a vehicle, the SRS system, is a good place to start. Furthermore, modifying the wiring can change the resistance of the circuit. This in turn, can cause problems with the airbag self-check and the airbag lamp may come on. Remember, whenever the lamp is on, the airbags will not deploy. Good advice would be to get the proper, prewired airbag/clockspring and whatever else you need to put your car back together properly; no wiring necessary. This is not the place to save a buck. If you ever have the occasion to meet your airbag face-to-face, as I have, you'll be damn glad it works when you need it most.

This is normal. Increased cold RPM helps heat the catalytic converters faster and improve emissions. Millions of cars do this every day.

This is does as a Lexus Personalized Setting. It can only be done at a Lexus dealer with a Lexus scantool. I have attached a list of available settings for the GS. GS_LPS.pdf

Generally, you can't safely just "replace" a deployed airbag. Often, other parts need to be replaced as well. For instance, the spiral cable or "clock spring" as it is sometimes called is required to be replaced after a deployment. Many people disregard this requirement, but is is noted in the service data from Lexus and virtually every other automobile manufacturer. As well, whichever sensor or combination of sensors caused the deployment may also need to be replaced. You will likely find that even after replacement, you might have the airbag light on. This will require a scantool to find what other parts need attention. As far as the wiring colors not matching: If the colors, number of, or positions of the wires in the connector on the replacement bag do not match the original, it is likely not the correct airbag. Although it is possible that the replacement (if it was sourced from Lexus) may have different colors but should be a direct, correct replacement. Perhaps you could give us more information on your situation?

Hoy Fox Toyota Lexus It's not cheap. $354.81, and this site sells at the same price that I get as a dealer! I'd start looking at the junk yards.

The door open/closed switch is part of the door latch, inside the door. Check to see if the switches for the lock and window operate on the door. If they do not, I would go to checking fuses for the door control module. Each door has such a module. The fuses concerned are located in the passenger side footwell, under the dash. P RR Door 20A & P FR Door 20A If the fuses are good and the buttons function on the door there are two possibilities. The door latch switch has failed and you need a new latch. This is a common part. My 1998 has had 3 of the 4 replaced thus far. Otherwise, you may have damaged the door control module, but it is less likely. A simple disconnection of the main battery for a few minutes may reset it.

I recommend a new shop. It is not normal for things to happen like this; especially in Lexus land. Also, it is rare to find multiple leaks in multiple places in any A/C system. It sounds like person working on your vehicle may be fishing for the answer that he does not have. At the very least, complain to the service manager if you have not already done so.

How about the valve cover gasket?

Is it possible that you happened to get a defective battery?

The battery in the key has nothing to do with starting the car. The battery only operates the keyless entry functions. Also, changing the battery in the car will not de-program the keys.

If all other functions work properly, there are two likely possibilities; the latch in the door or the computer in the door. If the power lock switches inside the car work the driver's door properly, it rules out the latch and lock motor. If the interior switches nor the the keyfob can operate the driver's door, I would suspect the locking motor in the latch. Someone in the forum might offer more concise help if you give details about what exactly works and what does not.

I would recommend you have your lower ball joints checked. Often as they wear, they can add a weighted feeling to the steering. They are also likely to cause a loud, metallic scraping sound. While you have it on a lift, it would be a good time to check the rest of the suspension as well.

The link to the .pdf has been corrected. Bank_1_Sensor_2_Location.pdf

The flashing A/C light most likely indicates a problem with your A/C compressor and/or A/C system. It is possible that a problem with the compressor can cause a problem with the power steering, particularly if the compressor is causing the belt to drag. The reverse is also possible. The power steering pump can cause the problem with the compressor.

Search these forums. This top has been covered at least 1,000 times. The suggestion below will not work. You cannot program any new keys without an already working master key, regardless of where you get them. Your options are to replace the ECU and obtain new keys or to remove your ECU, send it to some (possible fly-by-night) company, and have it reprogrammed to accept new keys, which usually are available from the same place. You will find much info. on your options by looking around this forum. Youngjay84 Naw juss online and find a place that sell the keys and give your vin number it will be way less than going to the lexus dealer cause they have out standing prices

Just a side note, the keys are not cut with a laser. They are cut using a milling machine. They can also be ordered directly from Lexus, already cut.

Did you have the "A/C Gurgling" taken care of? If so, what was done?

Open the hood and check the nuts that attach the wiper arms to the linkage below. Spring pressure from the blades pushing up on the arms can make it look like the arm nuts are tight, even if they aren't. Check them.

There are airbags in the sides of the front seats. Standard equipment. http://www.edmunds.com/used/1999/lexus/gs3...519/safety.html