GuyTelefunken

Good to hear all is well.

Fuel Rail/Injector R&R

Previous Post You need a new door latch assembly. It's about $250.00 plus labor.

Hello to the UK. The location of the relay is shown in the following file. It may be on the other side of the car given my service data is for US and Canadian left-hand drives. I've also included the testing instructions. Headlight Washer Relay Location Headlight Washer Relay Testing

I don't really clearly understand a lot of what you wrote nomatter how I read it. If the thermometer in your garage says 90 deg. F. what does the scantool indicate under air temperature? If it's close to the same, you're good. You say the instructions say 100 ohms @ 68 deg. F. I don't read the chart that way. I see +/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F. If your reading of "1.3" is actually 1.3K ohms (1300 ohms) it is ok.

Ok, I wrote the reply above. Strangely, the original post by Lex300GS dissappeared and my reply text was put in its place. Any mods out there that can retrieve the original message, it would be appreciated.

The part you are referring to, are you speaking of the motor for that price or the entire assembly? If you can get the motor (my supplier may have been incorrect?) I would still recommend against it, unless you are sure that it is all you need. By jamming the screwdriver in the throttle plate several things may have happened: The ECM disengaged the magnetic clutch the couples the throttle plate to the gear train and stopped the motor. The drive gear on the motor may have been damaged. In this case, a new motor will fix you if the gear is included with the new motor. Another gear in the geartrain may have been damaged. In this case, a motor will not help you. Replacing the motor alone is risky and somewhat expensive if there is other damage to the gears. This is why I suggested a used throttle body assembly. It would be wise to remove the motor first and check the gears condition. You should find the procedure in the pdf's. If you're not having any drivability concerns and no codes are recurring, you may in fact have no problem. You did mention "a loud whining noise." If this noise continues it is indicitive of either a stripped gear(s) or the motor itself. Good luck on whatever route you choose.

The throttle motor is not available as a service part. Look for a used one. I would suggest against just replacing the motor. It is possible that you damaged the clutch or gear(s) by what I have read. If you want to dissassemble it and try to see if there is anything fixable wrong with it, go for it. But remember, if not done right, the car will be dangerous if drivable at all. As far as the MAF, the easiest place you will find it is a Lexus dealer. I checked four places and none of them carry it. It's $190.40 MSRP from 98-00. From 01-05 it's $145.04.

Any OBDII compliant scantool should show the air temperature in the DATA section. The throttle plate motor is most likely not going to be available as a service part. Lexus would have you replace the entire throttle body. This of course comes at a cost in the $800.00 to $1,000.00 range MSRP. I would look for a used one if you need one. There are dirrerent part numbers based on the production date of the vehicle. MY1998 thru 1/98 22030-46120 $993.34 MSRP 2/98 thru MY2005 22030-46150 $857.11 MSRP *MY = Model Year I've attached the instructions for changing/servicing the throttle body. If you have any idle issues or have disturbed the throttle position sensor during installation, the instructions include how to calibrate it. This requires the OBD!! scantool as well. Throttle Body Instructions The program I am using is the Lexus Factory Service Manual. You can get IT on Ebay. Pay attention to what you are getting, they are virtually all knockoffs with some being better than others. If the loud whining noise is coming from the throttle motor, I'd say it's not a good sign.

p0110 p1128

Good for you! Necessity is the mother of invention.

The "A" pillar trim is MSRP $156.84. It is held to the body by clips. Pull it towards the center of the car to remove. It's easiest to start at the top. The bottom of the trim has a tab the extends below the edge of the dash. Therefore, you must release the top and tilt it out from behind the dash. Perhaps you could find a used one to replace your damaged one?

Did you bother to search these forums for your answer? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...408&hl=bulb

An easy job, when you have a lift. The only tool I would recommend is this/or similar ball joint seperator. The OTC 7503 is an ideal tool for seperating the upper ball joint from the knuckle below. Banging on the ball joint shaft or "pickle forking" is not how it's done. OTC 7503 Upper Control Arm Replacement Shock Absorber R&R Observe the correct torque for each fastener. I see you posted a few days ago about bushings in the upper arm. Any automotive machine shop can replace the bushings for a minimal fee; provided you take the arms and the new bushings to them. Whether or not you should replace the entire arm depends on where the worn parts are. The bushings nor the ball joints were meant to be replaced, according to Lexus. The entire arm is MSRP $453.27 for each side, with a new ball joint and bushings. If you consult your local machine shop, they may be able to press out both the bushings and ball joint and replace them for you at much less cost that that of two new arms. You can probably find the parts available aftermarket. You'll have to call or look around. It wouldn't hurt to have the alignment checked when you are done.

There is a condition called dieseling which used to be very common years ago. This condition manifests itself by the engine continuing to run or somewhat run after the key is turned to the off position. It can be caused by carbon or other deposits found in the throttle body or inside the actual cylinders. If there are deposits in the throttle body, they can cause the the throttle plate to not fully close when the engine is turned off. Air leaks by the plate for a moment after turning off the key and the engines continues to try to run on the gases still trapped in the cylinders. Deposits in the cylinders can remain hot after the key is turned off and cause the same condition. If you dissemble the throttle body and find a fair amount of contaminants, I would suggest cleaning it with carburetor cleaner. There is also a product called gum-out which is for this purpose. If upon reassembly your problem is gone, you're done. If you continue to have difficulties, I would suggest a trip to a qualified dealer to diagnose possible other causes. On your engine you must first remove the plastic cover and then the intake hose on the passenger's side. The throttle plate or butterfly as it is sometimes called is located fairly deep in the throttle body. More dissassembly may be necessary to clean it. It isn't extremely likely that this is the cause of your problem but it is possible.

You best go to church and thank god you are still under warranty. You have to remove the engine and transmission to get the upper oil pan off. Of course this involves removing and reinstalling a whole lot of things and draining and refilling all the fluids. Sounds like fun!!

Easiest way to see is put the old ones back in.

What part number did you use? Lexus specifies an NGK IFR6A-11 which has been replaced by the NGK IFR6T-11. If you did use the correct plugs, you may have possibly gotten a bad one. If you have a scantool available, you could go into the misfire counter and see if there is a problem with a particular cylinder. If there is a problem in multiple cylinders, it is likely that your engine just doesn't like those plugs. Can you tell which plug was installed before you replaced them? The other recommended part is the Denso SK20R11, replaced with the current Denso IK20.

The motor is the pump on the hydraulic brake booster assembly. If it goes, the whole assembly needs to be replaced. It's about $1,300.00 for the part and a few hours labor. After which, the brakes will need to be bled. Since the entire assembly will be empty, Lexus requires using their computer to open the internal valves in the assembly to be able to bleed it. Since you do not have access to a computer, this would be a problem. Your friend may want to think about trading that baby in before it brakes permanently.

I agree with those that have recommended that Lexus do the work. Horror stories, etc. about the Toyota dealerships. Air conditioning work is very precise, if you expect the results to be satisfactory. If the compressor has failed internally, the AC industry standard is to replace the parts initially suggested. The reasoning is that an internal failure of the compressor can cause debris to enter the system and lodge in the parts on the list. If Lexus does the work, they will guarantee it, and it should work. If Toyota does the work, make sure you get a guarantee the the system will work properly for a certain length of time. In my shop, we personally do not guarantee AC work because the customer usually doesn't want to pay to replace all the parts and do the job properly. Usually, they want the least expensive fix. If the system is contaminated, and the other parts are not replaced due to the customer not wanting to pay, it's not the shop's fault if the repair fails.

DTC is Diagnostic Trouble Code. Yes, you look at the blink pattern of the ABS light on the dash. The DLC1 (Diagnostic Link Connector) is under the hood on the driver's side. DLC1 Location Basically, remove the shorting pin inside the DLC1 connector box, connect the two terminals, turn the ignition to "on" not start, and write down the codes blinked out by the ABS light. After all the codes have been displayed, they will repeat.

I did consider that solution. I would have actually preferred to cut the groove in the rotor a little deeper. Unfortunately, I don't have the appropriate tooling for that. So, in keeping with my personal need to continue paving the road to perfection, I opted to have the original rotors cut to very near minumum thickness. They have been working well for >10K miles.

I believe tha all rotors will rust over time. The Brembos are a lot less money than the OEM, but iron is iron; provided it is machined acurately and finished well. I would stay with the regular smoothies if it was up to me. I've used all kinds on many cars and have yet to see a reason to slot, drill, or otherwise *BLEEP*ize a plain old rotor for "normal" applications. The only problem I have had with aftermarket rotors was on the rear. There is a groove on the backside of the rotor that fits around the plate surrounding the parking brake components. I've gotten aftermarket rotors (not Brembo) where the groove wasn't deep enough and rubbed on this plate.

Blower Motor Diagnostics According to the chart, page 3, if the voltage is not between 1 and 3 volts, the blower motor controller (relay) is suspect. It is possible that an internal failure of this part is causing the voltage to drop to 0.5 volts on the control input. Check the control line with the blower control relay disconnected. If it is between 1 and 3 volts, get ready for a $200.00 part. I'd look for used if I needed one. Blower Control Relay Replacement

From the services I have personally recieved at Lexus dealers, I almost cannot believe that this is how your dealer is treating you. I totally agree that if they caused this problem, it is their responsibility to correct it; and with an apology to you as well. If this necessitates that they replace the entire cooling system to get the part to fit, than so be it. Time to call coorporate; start rolling heads. 1-800-255-3987 Monday – Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m., PT. Saturday, 7:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m., PT Fax: 1-310-468-2992 Address: The Lexus Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 2991 – Mail Drop L201 Torrance, CA 90509-2991 Your situation is total bulls**t. It was the carelessness of someone at the dealership that lost your part and now they need to replace it. It's as simple as that. What if they had lost your key? What if it was your only key? Would they expect you to pay for new keys and the ECM that you would need to replace? If you get absolutely nowhere, here's a thought. If they have a similar car on their lot for sale, take it for a test drive. Drive it home to your garage.