TWINTURBO619

no problem. that is the only way to fix that problem besides pulling out the chip. good luck.

i would keep my aristo quite as possible. leave the stock piping and go with the trd mufflers. that way, you only would have sound output and not have it run straight through the piping underneath you. what you do you think? it's a lex, lets keep it low pro but rip it out when someone calls you out. =)

why don't you try the trd exhaust. that give it a nice quiet sound but when it's ready to go, you'll have a beautful competition sound. best exhaust if heard for a toyota.

if you don't want to remove the chip, the only thing i can recommend is to readjust your throttle cable which will only take about 5 minutes. you can readjust it to the point of a normal take off again. good luck with the wifey. hey, it's a lexus, the power is just trying to come out =)

it's probably your airflow ratio. there's a little screw by your throttle body that will let you adjust the airflow ratio. turn it up a bit and this will start raising your idle. your car will start sucking more air and make you go a little bit faster. but i bet that's what the problem is. good luck

it's not so much the plywood that gives you the boom, it's the quality of the speaker plus the correct domensions of a box. it's much more feasable to use particle board instead of carrying all that extra weight in the back. i have two 10" w3 jl audio pro comp speakers and you can hear me from two blocks away in my supra. i put them in the trunk of my aristo, and didn't hear crap. the stock sub was hitting much harder than my own comp subs. so it's more dimensions of the box you are designing or using.

maybe the mechanic is trying to trick you into selling him your now "totalled" car. i would definately wait for the insurance guy to come and declare it totalled. then you can collect some cash and use on a down payment on another car. good luck

the alternator is an important part of your power system. you would highly recommend that you break down and purchase a new one instead of fixing the regulator. the regulator should regulate voltage and distribute it evenly accross the board when other units of your car demand for power. the more units that require power, the more volts your alternator has to shell out. but if the regulator is out of wack, then it's not going to distribute properly and that's when your battery lights comes in telling you that your power is being drained. so you should buy a new alternator and chuck that one. good luck

thanks for the compliment Dennis. you're right, it is a 93. if you're interested in any of the parts you see on my car, let me know what's up. i have a good connect up in japan, florida, and L.A. for stuff. depending on their load, i can probably get you some good deals. Well i hope all goes well with the servo. I haven't had that problem yet so when it arises, i know who to contact. Take care buddy.

sorry about that, don't mean to offend anyone. i have programs at work that only take caps. so when i type on this, i try not to forget to take off the caps but sometimes it's too late. so the caps is not intended and hopefully try not to forget in the future.

i know i'm late on this post and probably everyone already helped you out with this problem, but i couldn't help add that the radiator you got from radiators.com is actually a GS300/IS300 radiator because of the sensor. my car has that sensor but not too familiar with the sc300 setup. as for the boiling, you probably have a pinhole air leak which is hard too find... that or a fine crack somewhere. hope this helps any.

thanks for the compliment yo. i really appreciate it. well good luck with the waxing. buy some mcguires, it's really good for the paint and headlights. it's like less than ten bucks. but does wonders for your car.

B) Thanks bro. LL and TWINTURBO619 hit it on the nose though. Kinda makes me proud. I was looking at the ad earlier today. Seems like - for the price alone, the car might be a decent deal. I'd offer 9g's if it was in good shape. Dude can keep his turbo stuff. I'll handle that on my own. Dude does lots of talkin' and accomplishes little to sway me. SP big trim whistler and build up. My money has to go to other things now though. House and woman are tearin me up. Nice Aristo by the way. Is that yours TWINTURBO619? what's going on. i have an identical aristo to the one you see posted as my avtar and personal pix. except mine is the lexus emerald green. i have 19X9.5 10 fork tuning rims much like mrsyphers rims and i don't have that middle deck running across the front of the bumper. either than that, mine is identical. let me tell you, the girls jock the car and spoiler. i get a lot of compliments. as to the post, i like to add my two cents to the matter. like to give my knowledge out there and like to learn more. so if i'm ever wrong or have anyone have a dispute over some issues, let me know what's up. i'm the one who posted the all wheel drive aristo on the gs300 gallery. someone was saying that it never existed. but it's all good though, don't want to stomp on anyones parade, but would like to show proof and give them closure for their benefit you know? well take care guys and obviously who ever posted that sale on ebay sucks at advertising. happy turboing.

oh yeah, sorry about that, my supra had hex screw caps for the rails and up sorry about the CAPS key too. bad habit at work. i only type in caps. please don't take it to offense that i am yelling at the world because programs at my work require cap entry. sorry all.

hey mrsypher, that's right, the caps have a hex screw design don't they? forgot about that... hmph, well you're going to need to find an allen wrench that fits that or be lucky enough to have a screw driver set with a set of allen hex heads to unscrew those. i have to look at mine to make sure. thanks for reminding me.

UNDER THE HOOD, LOOK UNDER THE PASSENGER SIDE AND STRAIT AT YOUR MANIFOLD. FOLLOW THE PIPES UNTIL YOU SEE SOMETHING STICKING OUT OF IT WITH WIRES LEADING TO THE FRONT OF THE CAR. THAT'S YOUR O2 SENSOR.

IT SOUNDS LIKE A GREAT SETUP AND SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT THE TURBO PROBLEMS. FOR 125 AN HOUR, HE'S SMOKING SOME SERIOUS CRACK. TRY THIS. I HAVE READ YOUR POST ABOUT 3 TIMES TRYING TO THINK OF THE PROBLEM AND ALL I COULD THINK OF IS THAT YOUR ECU IS STILL STOCK AND ONCE YOU HIT A CERTAIN RPM, YOUR AIR/FUEL RATIO STARTS MIXING DIFFERENTLY WITH MPH AND GAS CONSUMPTION. SINCE YOUR 2JZGE WASN'T MEANT FOR TURBO, YOUR ECU ALSO WASN'T MADE TO READ A HIGH INDUCTION OF COMPRESSED AIR RUNNING THROUGH THE SENSORS, SO IT'S KINDA LOST AS WHAT TO DO WITH THE EXTRA AIR. YOU'RE JUST BLOWING OUT UN COMBUSTED AIR. SO YOU SHOULD TRY TO FIND AN ALTEZZA ECU THAT ACTUALLY HAS A 2JZGTE AND NOT THE TOP SECRET MOTOR WHICH IS THE 4 BANGER MR2 TURBO MOTOR. OR YOU CAN FIND A SUPRA TWINTURBO SUPRA ECU. I THINK THAT SHOULD FIX THE PROBLEM. WELL GOOD LUCK WITH THAT, BUT I'M NEARLY 100% SURE THAT THE ECU WILL BE YOUR PROBLEM.

well this setup looks identical to a twinturbo setup for the soarer/aristo/supra tt. the piping is the same. it's true the the bottom end is virtually identical with the exception of the compression ratio but what someone else had mentioned, you cannot bolt on this setup to the 2jzge head. the bolt patter is not the same. all you would need is to purchase a 2jzgte head and bolt it down with your ge bottom end. then you can slap on this kit. only thing is that you would have to reinforce your tranny by replacing the valves. that or you can slap on a 2jzgte tranny. that is a direct bolt on. then you would have to change out your computer to a supra ecu to read the fuel/air ratio correctly to put out the full potential of your motor. yada yada yada, you're going to end up spending some cash. and about the hp rating, you'll get about 320 hp out of the setup he's showing. you can get more, but probably ruin your engine at about 600 ponies. you don't want to do that.

hey what's going on, i don't have an sc but a gs with the same problem. when i bought my car, they were yellower than daisies. all i did was buy some mcguires car polish and applied them to the head light lenses and buffed them out. let me tell you, they came out nearly factory. really good stuff. haven't had a problem since. i've had my gs for three years and never gotten yellow again. you don't need to polish the inside, the outside will do just fine. about the fog lights. it should be only two bolts and one built in clip to take them out. shouldn't be too hard. look around in the front for a false cover, if not, then you gotta take off the splash guards at the bottom and take them off from inside the bumper. hopefully this will help you out. good luck

so when are we going to have a southern cali meet? i would be interested in one of those deals... let me know if that's a possible thing.

what's going on yo. welcome to the club, i don't have eibachs myself, but i had intrax on mine and when i dropped it, it was still the stock ride. no bumps or anything. the g1 gs has a really good susp. setup. i'm riding on 19X9.5 with a 1.5 lip. i'm going to drop my car again once i paint. don't worry about the gap between the tire and wheel well. you'll probably end up with a one-two finger gap which is real good. you don't want it to close to the tire and rub off the edges. well like i said, welcome to the club.

about your burnt smell. it's true that lexus does use a "special" tranny fluid that you can also buy at autozone. just tell them you want the tranny fluid for the supra. don't ask for the tranny fluid on the lexus because they'll just tell you to go to the dealer and since the supra has the identical drive train, you can just ask for that one. the only draw back is that lexus does put a special additive which you can only get there. either you can shell out a good amount for the whole tranny fluid change or spend like 10 bucks on fluids and go to lexus parts dept and ask them for the special additive. save your self a good amount of cash. good luck. oh yeah, btw, that's why i think your tranny fluid stinks. you don't have that special additive.

hey what's going on. sorry to hear about your engine and trans. well if you're going to run turbo on a stock engine and tranny, then the only thing you would have to build up is the tranny. the engine alone can take about 600-650 hp without any internals. that's a damn good engine toyota put together. as for the tranny, since it wasn't design to run that much hp, you would have to reinforce the valves inside. that or go with the toyota twinturbo tranny. it should be a direct bolt on to your gs. well hope this info is beneficial. good luck.

hey what's going on, i'm sorry to hear about the trunk. i don't think it's a cable. i actually think there's a servo motor that releases the latch when you hit that little button by your leg. if it was a cable, i think it would have been on the floor with a bigger lever and with a wider range when you pulled on it. it won't open probably because you burnt out the servo on the trunk unit. you can either take all the plastic trim off and check out the server by running some power to it. if it moves, then your button probably broke. either take out the housing where the button is held and clean off the contancts to see if that will get it working again, if not, then you'll know where the problem is. well good luck and again, my condolences to the trunk.

yeah, it's pretty expensive down here. when they told me that, i was like no, that's okay, i'll just take the spark plug change. but yeah, i'm all the way south in california, in the best city in the world... SuN dIeGo. but yeah, damn dealership. good thing is that our cars are super low maintenance.