eatingupblacktop

I think 1990LS has a point about the bulb failure indicator lighting up. Rather than disconnecting or removing the bulbs, if you're concerned with the aesthetics, just block cyclops with some black cover stock over the red lens (between the lens and the glass. Easy way out.

I disagree... The 2001 LS430 has DBW, E-throttle. With DBW the engine ECU can be programmed to react entirely differently (slower rate of torque rise..??) to gas pedal depressions in normal vs "pwr". Pedal to the metal, WOT, may not be ACTUALLY WOT in normal mode. Think about buying a car with a smallish I4 engine primarily for FE and then driving it aggressively. If you wish to drive aggressively then a higher HP V6 will be a better choice and will yeild better gas mileage. Think of your V8 in the "normal" mode as having been detuned, derated down to the equivalent of a V6, in order to improve FE. Now when you drive in "PWR" mode you're simply switching to the V8 which is clearly more appropreate, FE wise, for your personal driving style. There is no engine I know of that has a flat output. You can see these power and torque curves of any engine on a dyno. That's basically the reasoning behind the cvt...to keep the engine in the optimum part of the curve. As far as hard acceleration, I agree, loading an engine beyond it's designed capabilities will yield less efficiency than comparable acceleration with an engine designed for that load. DaveGS said he drives somewhat aggressively, which to my mind, given the longer hold on each gear and longer duration in the power band could explain his better mileage.

If you drop and clean the debris out of the sump pan first then a power flush afterwards will do not harm and is probably a better choice than "piece-mealing" the ATF change out/over. In principle sounds ok, but depending on the service history, there could be caked on crap elsewhere in the system that becomes dislodged with a power flush and winds up clogging some of the smaller passageways. Better safe than sorry. I do agree that doing multiple changes to achieve complete replentishment is not most expedient. For me the tutorial has it right on the money.

Jcrome's exactly right. When a tranny is shifting it's similar to idling waiting for the lights to change. You get 0 mpg, although shifting is a lot quicker of course. So the less shifting your tranny does the more mileage you get. One more reason for locking out the o/d when driving in the city. Another reason you're getting better mileage might be that you're spending more time in the engine's optimum revving range. Every engine has a range where it gets optimum fuel efficiency just as peak horsepower and torque have their power bands.

The LF-A roadster's not too shabby.

What a difference a few years make. My cotm or even coty (car of the year) nomination is the FURAI (sound of the wind): .......matte finish too.

what do i have to replace the heater circuit ? If the heater is burned out, Lexus will charge you 1.5 hrs per side plus parts to replace. You could try to find a repair shop to recoil the heaters for less.

Chances are you have an open heater circuit....meaning you will have to replace.

Power flushes create too much pressure and can cause problems. Here's a link to the safe way to flush your tranny just so you will know what's involved: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transflush.html You're right about doing changes often. You will eventually have mostly fresh fluid. If the fluid is dirty as the shop told you, you should clean or replace the filter as well. If you're not a diy, then I would change the tranny fluid at a Toyota dealer and save some bucks. The fluid you want to use is Toyota Type IV ATF.

Be carefull with those hoses. They get brittle with age and can crack or break easily. Also keep an eye on your level over the next while.....and I would check if there's any blue smoke coming out the exhaust after starting the car.

Look good to me. Why do want to get rid of them?

OEM for me....no issues, no guessing, no time wasted.

1990LS Ya beat me to it. Lots of good info. It's right at the top of this page. "Common Issues And A Ls400 Buying Guide"

If you're impressed with the exterior, and you mention aesthetics of the interior, I don't think you'll be happy with anything other than an oem replacement. If the car is running well I would replace just the bottom cover. I'm sure you could find one at a wreckers relatively inexpensive and imo it would be worth it. Check out the "Buy & Sell" forum or ebay.

Load test both your battery and alt. Also check grounds. Even though you replaced it, sounds like your alternator.

Check out the "Club Events & Meetings" forum. There quite often is a dent guy at these meetings where you get a deal by being a member.

ya, right....in my years of doing UOA, that is not the normal in sports cars to motorcycles.. Doing UOA is one thing. Doing inspections after teardowns is another. The analysis of one doesn't necessarily imply the results for the other.

I think the description that best fits the ideal ride would be "supple" ....maintaining optimum road contact for full control and handling capabilities yet offering maximum isolation from jarring bumps and potholes. My 91 is not overly stiff in the front or floaty at the rear. Feels equally balanced at both ends and bumps are pretty much absorbed without transmission to the interior. Smoothest car I've ever owned. Maybe you've got stiff aftermarket shocks up front?

Before you start buying replacements, make sure the part is defective. Cheapest first........as cardona says, make sure the battery terminals and connectors are clean and tight. Next check the tension on your serpentine belt. Then, check the ground on your alternator. After load testing the battery and alt, you're ready to buy what you need.

If you're in Brandon, sounds like you should have a truck. Winters must be killer. Just test drove an 03' 4runner with the 4.7L. Nice truck but the ride is truck. All of them come with the factory hitch. Tough and capable for sure, especially in the winter. Problem is, I'm used to the LS ride, so I'm going to check out the Highlander and compare. Would like to replace my winter Volvo with an AWD and start skiing again.

I'll go with NC on this one. Top grade fluids. Extreme schedule. No problems. No worries. Besides, the more often the changes, the more you get to check everything out and maybe spot something small before it gets big. Nothing beats knowing what needs attention.

90LS is exactly right. If your car is bouncy or doesn't settle down quickly after a rise or bump in the road, you need new shocks. If it's a control issue, check the rest of the suspension.

Check your thermostat.

Basically, in the city you want to minimize the tranny hunting which causes unnecessary wear and impinges on smooth operation. While cruising at highway speeds, O/D gives you better gas mileage, less noise and less wear. Also be carefull of overheating the tranny when engine braking in mountainous country down long grades. As far as towing goes, I've never seen an LS tow anything.

In any frontal impact, the front absorbs more of the impact then any other part of the car, so check for hidden damage at the front first. If there's none then most likely the rest of the car is ok. I'd still take a look underneath the front. If no contact was made with the fans or rad and the car was running well before, then I would compare the cost of repair with what you could buy for that same amount. From the pics I'd say chances are, you'll be better off with the repair. At least you know the car.