eatingupblacktop

Another tip....if you get the sensor code, before replacing them check out that the grounds are secure and making solid contact with clean metal.

As I suggested to IS430dude, for more reading and dialogue check out: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=44543

Everything you need to know and probably more: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=44543 Enjoy!

It's your low engine oil level warning light. Check your level. From what the manual says, it is designed to indicate extremely low level not just slightly low. It's ok for the light to flicker at idle and quick stops occaisionally as long as it goes out on acceleration.

Ecu uses the sensor reading to adjust mixture. I would also check the ISC. The valve could need cleaning. Another check would be for an intake leak say between the air flow meter and the cylinders. If you have a bad slope in the fuel curve near idle from erratic air flow, the ecu would search to correct mix errors. Going from overly rich and starting to stumble/stall to overly lean and upping the revs. Rough idle.

One suggestion, when replacing the caliper, check for amount of pads left and make sure the rotors are clean of any deposits. Also the heat you were describing has most likely boiled some of the brake fluid...I would replace the fluid as well.

I've already posted this in the 460 forum, but I should have posted it here. Anyone ever tried this parking technique? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it9SltLFnTM&NR=1 Here's another:

You don't need the 460's feature when you can park like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it9SltLFnTM&NR=1 Or like this:

It's kind of a "catch 22". I remember buying some equipment one time from someone I didn't like. He was the Canadian distributor for the brand I wanted and I didn't want to go to the States for the purchase because of warranty considerations. Eventually finished the deal with his sales manager, otherwise I was ready to walk away. Nevertheless, his service department was top notch.....another reason to hold my nose and sign the deal. Did you do a full inspection before purchase, ie - fender liners, rims, or did you notice these later? The steering knuckle is a little more serious. How did the car pass a safety if you're being told not to drive the car on the highway? When you say: you give them an out because you don't specify your expectation. "As best as possible" can be interpreted by them as meaning "not possible" within their expertise. Putting it in writing is always a good idea. But writing it so there is no misunderstanding or room for interpretation is better.When you find something you've been looking for or something that not much else can substitute, you wind up putting up with oversights but it does make you check things twice and a little closer. It sounds like the service mgr could be a good one. Easy to consider the dealership incompetent or careless. Depends on what his explanations were. It doesn't give you much confidence though does it? One thing to consider once your present dealer gives it a final service, would be to take the car to another dealer for a complete inspection. Better still, since your in Canada, call the APA. They can refer you to an approved garage that does only inspections - no repairs. They will give you a complete written report on every part of your car for about $125. Nothing overlooked. Last poiint: stay cool and calm and you'll get more co-operation. It sounds like that's what you did anyway since the mgr was apologetic and is willing to remedy things at their cost. Trust should be earned and not assumed. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Do a load test on the battery and check connections.

I agree with dj. Check your front o2 sensors and their grounding. Make sure the ground is connected to clean not corroded metal. If they're going, you may not be getting any codes for them yet from the ecu because they're flying under the radar and the ecm is compensating.

Everyone loves a bargain. Problem is, as you found out, it's not a bargain when you're stuck with something you can't use and can't return.

Find a product that has fillers, notice I said product not wax. I would personally remove the scrathes with OC or OHC and then proceed with a wax/sealant. Yeah, good point. It also depends on how deep the scratches go. For better protection against stone chips (which is probably what created your scratches), instead of using a wax, I would put on a clear coat with a flex agent. And Smooth1 is right about the Detailiing forum.

I checked your photos again as I could not believe it didn't come with the CD. Someone here will know how to connect up an ipod, which is probably a better bet. Me too! Haven't seen a unit like yours, without the cd. If you want to keep it authentic (you sound like a future collector), I would say just swap it. Probably have to do some wiring unless it's already there. There's got to be lots of them available. Ebay for sure. The "Buy & Sell" forum might have some or links to some.

LS temp guages tolerate a large range of temperatures before they move. Unless the coolant temp is outside that tolerance, they generally don't move significantly. If you're not getting much heat after the engine is warmed up and your gauge indicates in the bottom 1/3, I would check the coolant level and/or the thermostat.

A warm engine should idle at 650 rpm +/- 50. Rough idle could be coolant temp sensor, incorrect idle mix, Vibration could be out of balance wheels, loose wheel nuts, alignment, wheel bearings, loose/worn suspension components.....tie rods, control arms, ball joints. You should read some recent threads with discussions and suggestions for similar problems to yours. Here's one: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=43613

You can confirm a warped disc by applying the brakes.......you will feel a pulsation at lower speeds which tranlsates to a vibration at higher speeds because the frequency of the pulsation increases with speed. The more pressure you apply - the more pronounced the pulsation/vibratiion. Indicates a seizing caliper. Would have that serviced without delay. Don't compromise on your braking.

Do you have any service history on the car? What's the mileage on the car? What year is it? Has anything been replaced recently? Do you get this problem at any speed or just the range you mentioned? How does it idle? Is it smooth and what's the rpm? Any problems starting? Get the idea? We need more info from you. You need to help us in order for us to help you.

Check that the screws are connected to the housing.

You sure the smoke is coming out your exhaust? If it is, could be a gasket starting to go. If not, could be overflow burning off the manifold. Check your coolant level. Also, "full throttle" has a lot to do with mileage.

Did you not test drive before buying? Lexus has dialed in more road feel to upgrade their performance image, but I wouldn't call it harsh. I have a neighbour with one. Lovely ride. It's firmer than my LS400, but I've got the old suspensioin with over 200 k on it. I would suggest taking out a demo at the dealership over a route you find to be harsh in your car. Then immediately drive your car over the same route for comparison. If you find a substantial discrepancy, take out the service manager for the same comparison. It may be that your car was not prep'd properly before delivery. Just noticed SW made basically the same suggestions earlier in this thread. In any event, never hurts to repeat good advice.

Glad to help.

Park Avenue is definitely closer to an LS than an Impala. It's Buick's flagship model. Test drove one once........smooth ride. Heavy car....you can feel the weight in the handling. Surprising power though from the 3.8L for such a big car. Must be in the gearing. They also put out the Ultra which has more power from the supercharged version. Nice leather, quiet, but lousy switchgear like all GM's. If you buy one just don't use the window lifts a lot. If you're going to look at one, you may as well try the LaSabre as well. 90LS is right, it's GM's leading brand for quality.

Does it change at all when you select different air flow vents and are you getting full flow? If so, then then there's no serious obstruction that would cause the vibration. My guess would be either the fan housing is not secure or the bearings are shot.

That price is almost too low!