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pachocco1

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Everything posted by pachocco1

  1. I have it. fogli1.pdf headl3.pdf
  2. All props do go to you. I did take the sugguestion from from your web site to go the TIS route. It took me about 3 hours but I was very determined and full of coffee. : ) My total download was about 150 mb. I downloaded the repair manual, wiring manual, collision manual, the transmission tear-down manual, all TSB's, and assorted technical training for mechanics. I have a 2000 Toyota Celica. Funny thing with that is on the Boards that I frequent for that car, they already have the whole manual already embedded in threads for all to access. newcelica.org Now if Gold memebership offer access to something like that I would be very enticed. I wonder what that site license would cost. At any rate... nc211-you are very welcome. LexLS-props to for a web site that offeres a great utility of lexus data. LOC-the best source and common ground for experiential information.
  3. You can have access to all the same documents and more on the TIS web page. It is ... "The Technical Information System or TIS is your service support source for all Toyota produced vehicles marketed in the United States. TIS includes all of the vital information you'll need to effectively service most 1990 and later Toyota products." For ten dollars, you can download your entire Lexus manual for use. To me, it makes a no difference whether my manual is digital or paper. The cost is really the time it takes for you to download the the set. It has to be done section by section and organized as you go. http://techinfo.toyota.com/index.html comp.em123.pdf inst.sa94.pdf remo.pr3.pdf
  4. Have fun with your repairs. comp.pdf reas.pdf remo.pdf remo_shock.pdf repl.pdf
  5. I figure that you don’t have a manual. Here is some pertinent information. ← comp.pdf insp.pdf cip0420p.pdf
  6. All I can say is read the fine print. Some company warranties have a loose (in my opinion) definition of the word 'warranty'. It may include per incident deductibles, pre-repair approvals for the mechanic and the repair itself, and other various time consuming or cost hidden exclusions.
  7. I am betting on the swaybar (stabilzer) bushing also! You can shoot it with some silicone lubricant. It should go away immediately but will return with some time. The bushings are cheap and easy to replace. stabiliz.pdf
  8. I hope this helps better than the link I gave. Also, did you try to get the code yourself? What did you get? howtotro.pdf diagnosi.pdf diagnost.pdf matrixch.pdf iscvalve.pdf
  9. http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/ you'll need a paper clip.
  10. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...wtopic=4886&hl= http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...wtopic=5320&hl= http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...wtopic=6230&hl= Here are my posts. You can replace the diffy mounts and the sub-frame cushions in the back. I tested the differential mounts by wedging a block of wood between the differential and the under carriage of the car. Went for a test drive and low and behold my noise / vibration was reduced significantly.
  11. Here is a copy of a TSB for wireless keys and fobs. lel00396.pdf
  12. The bearing and other related components can be replaced. The hub would need to be damaged in order to require replacement. It holds the bearing and is a very strong load carrying part. I strongly doubt it needs to be replaced. Attached is from the repair manual for your reading. frontaxl.pdf
  13. Thanks for the heads up. Turns out however, I contacted Iron Toad for the bushing and was told that they do not offer that product. They only sell the whole rod. (to me anyways) I assumed that latintxn54 was getting them from there but was mistaken. So..latintxn54 who is your supplier for the strut rod bushing?
  14. I need some help, guys. I'm going to re-bush my upper control arms(90LX400) this week. I planned on downloading manuals from the toy/lex support page, but they are not Mac/apple compatible. I can read/write adobe files: Apparently it's the site itself that will not tolerate Macs. Question #1 is: does anyone have the PDF's relating to upper a-arm R&R, Lower arm R&R, and Strut replacement? Question #2 is: Has anyone R&R'ed the balljoints in Upper A-arm? I don't know if I need them yet, but it's likely I do. If you can help, email attachments or links to: jadecuir@comcast.net Thanks, John ← If you did not get there already. Here they are: lowerbal.pdf frontsho.pdf uppersus.pdf strutbar.pdf lowerarm.pdf
  15. Hey cool find for a supplier for the bushings. I would rather take the savings on just the bushings. The part is steel and like the knuckle bushings are the only part that actually shows wear. The added cost is in the time it takes to press in and out of the strut rod. I am due for a replacement too and this would do very nicely. I don’t have a press but am going to try and rig one up with a vise and a small jack. Thanks for the tip.
  16. I don't have the same year but from what I understand the code should be stated in your owners manual.
  17. This is what I have for 91. Could be the same. rearaxle.pdf
  18. For certain it is an error. Get this looked at as soon as possible. If you are a DIYer, I have attached the resolution to whatever trouble code you have. You can get you trouble code byfollowing the instructions on this link. trouble code circuiti.pdf
  19. booster or a bypass for remote start.
  20. Here is the how-to. coolings.pdf
  21. I don't think the headliner will need to be removed. To remove the visor, remove the screw cover by hand. It may require a little manipulation. Once removed you will then reveal the visor mounting plate with 2 phillips head screws. Remove screws and carefully pull down visor. The vaniity wires and connector will then be exposed. Disconnect the vanity light connector. I would use the shim idea mentioned by silvermate or what ever is applicable for the repair of your part. If that fails...start calling your local junk yards or other salvage resources.
  22. From your previous post: im trying to find the fuse box that holds the fuse to the auxiliary lights @ your feet in a 1991 ls400. i dont think its the box by the battery under the hood or the box by the brake pedal in the car. is there another fuse box? please disreguard this. i just can't figure out why the lights @ your feet and the light in the ignition stopped working. they were working, the bulbs are not dead, i cant find a blown fuse, they just stopped working. The diagram I posted previosly showed that Junction box 2 contains the 10amp DOME fuse. It is responsible (see attachment) for the Illumination system (ie door, vanity, ignition, dome, glovebox, trunk & map light. If any of those are working, then your fuse should be ok. It is located under the hood and to the right side of the engine compartment. Attached are more specifics about interior lighting system. interior.pdf
  23. Here is what I found for the 97. Does anyone have anything different for the 97? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Key blanks: Ilco / Silca TOY40BT4 Replacement key blanks can be ordered through any Lexus dealer. Programming replacement keys - 1997 LS400 only. 1. Enter the car and close all doors. Simultaneously depress and release both the brake and accelerator pedals. 2. Within 5 seconds, insert the working pre-programmed key into the ignition and cycle the ignition from the "off" position to the "on" position 5 times. Leave the ignition in the "on" position. 3. Within 15 seconds, open and close the driver’s side door one time. 4. Within 20 seconds, open and close the driver’s side door 5 more times. 5. Within 20 seconds, remove the working key from the ignition. 6. Within 10 seconds, insert the newly cut transponder key into the ignition, and turn the ignition to the "on" position. 7. Leave the new key in the ignition for at least 60 seconds. 8. After 60 seconds the programming should be complete. 9. If you are programming additional keys, insert the next key within 10 seconds of removing the last, and turn the ignition to the "on" position. Once again, leave the key in the “on” position for at least 60 seconds. 10. Start the vehicle to verify that programming has been successful.
  24. Does somebody have the key programming procedures from the 97 LS400 shop manual? I found a lot of loose instructions but I have had some problems. Also, I am trying confirm the that there is a difference in transponders between the 97's, 98-00's, & 01-05's. Thanks in advance.
  25. I was thinking about this as an option. The other would be to replace all the air struts with standard struts. If anyone has done this, I would like to know how it affected the ride? I don't want to lose the beautiful ride I get (normally) in this car. What sort of shocks are appropriate for the car? ← OEM's are alright for me.
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