pachocco1

http://www.lexls.com/lsgenerations.html great site btw.

Alright, Ill bite. A) Go to your local dealer. Give them your VIN and a good chunk of change. If you have alternate transportation and can wait a few days, try these: B) http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...D=91&ModelID=59 Sewell Lexus here in Dallas. Key(s) are cut for your car but need programming. Search elsewhere on the boards here for the how-to programming procedure or get done at your local dealer. C) Ebay. Buy a blank. Get it cut. Program if necessary. and others I am sure.

See attached. powersou.pdf

Test the battery before having it replaced...make sure you're not taking the shotgun approach. ← Good sugguestion. Had the battery tested before progressing any further. The handheld device at Autozone indicated a good battery. The cells appears to be full and ok. Upon further visual inspection however there was a good size buldge at the base of one side of the battery. I believed it to be suspect enough for me and just replaced the battery. My car carries my two year old and I don't take any risks of inconvenience with her. No dimming problems noted after replacement. HTH

I have the same problem. In my case, the battery needs replaced (It barely turns the car over) . I am replacing the battery in the morning. If it is not the root cause and the problem still exists, I will post again with other potential sources of the problem that I discover from my car. As a side note, the car is a 97 LS400. It replaced a 91 LS400 I totaled over the holidays.

My car is a total loss as you all expected. I plan on heeding all suggestions about the appraisal value and plan to negotiate a round or two. Thanks to all.

Thanks for asking. Looks like I am in a holding pattern until the Insurance Company determines fully and without question that there are no insurance options available to the other driver and/or owner. The driver provided a bad address and phone number. No contact will be available there. The Owner has a bad phone number and the address research is pending comparison with DMV records and the like. It is unknown if he has insurance but the car has current tags. In Texas, one must show proof on insurance for such a transaction. We will see. No matter what happens I am moving on and am very fortunate to have been in a very safe and resilient vehicle.

Thanks all for your input and concern. I appreciate your time and thoughts in this matter. Happy Holidays throughout.

The air bags did not deploy. This did concern me due to the partial frontal impact. The claims adjuster commented on that as well. I don't know where the sensors are for deployment but it must have been close.

I will certainly evaluate your suggestion. Being an avid buyer, I am familiar with the market for used & salvage parts. The return might be very good if the buy back price is reasonable enough. Oh, BTW FTN! Being a Navy veteran from the first Gulf war, I know the alter ego Navy. Thank you for your input.

I empathize with your situation. I don't have a lot of trust in repair shops to go to the fullest extent possible with some types of repairs. I am in favor if the totaling the vehicle because I am weary of drivability concerns after repair. I mean the car drove before the wreak drove like a dream. Anything less is not acceptable. Thank you for your input.

The car is a 1991with 135,000. The car would not turn so there may be some internal (minor or major) suspension issues. Nobody hurt. The other car was totaled for certain. This car is a tank and will likely by a newer one to replace it. Thank you for your comment and concern.

Red light runner tagged me Saturday night. I am awaiting police report details to determine my course of action. Until then, I am doing this opinion poll to determine what is more then likely to happen to the vehicle.

My situation is a leak at the EPR ( pressure regulator ). I have noticed a slight whine by the compressor and think that I am headed for the same failure. I will replace the compressor (New 600, Remanu 299+shipping, DIY refurb kit est~100), the pressure regulator (New 120) the drier/receiver (new 124) 3 lbs of R12 & Oil ( about 100 ) O ring kit (new 10) So overall I would say that price is great if they use a new compressor and do a good leak test and fill with freon. Now for a remanufactured part it gets to be a call that requires closer scrutiny. What are the labor rates and standard labor time for compressor removal. What else will they replace?(if anything?) Will hey let you buy the parts? Some shops won't or they wont warranty the same way. BTW, in 98 at Lexus of Austin Texas the did all of the above plus hoses for $2000.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/

1991LS400, Also in Dallas (North) is another LEXUS only shop. Check out this link for them. http://www.davenportmotorco.com/ It is a family owned business that I personally know for a fact is very successful. You might check them out for market stategies, business scope, and customer/supplier requirements. Good luck on your endeavor.

I am certain I have read an older topic here that has some related information and an attachment which contains the removal process and diagram from OEM manual. Try a search and see what comes up.

TSB's are at: http://www.clublexus.com/index.php/article/topiclist/15

it is a wedge...i think you have to use the wattage indicated in the owners manual for it. My 91 states 1.4 Watts. There wasn't a size indicated, so I used the closest one at the auto parts store with a wattage of 2. I used a set of needle nose to get it out.

I recently replaced the whole thing as well. Here is what I noticed. It appears my car (@125K) increased in efficiency more than anything. My gas mileage improved to the avg of 20-25 mpg of mixed driving from 15-20. Two of my plugs were very fouled looking. I really did not notice any performance increase. If cost is an issue, I would do the plugs and just physically examine the wires for corrosion, cracking, and the like. I was surprised that mine were in very good condition up removal. I believe you can run a test on them to ensure they are witin specs. From my 91 manual it states: INSPECT HIGH–TENSION CORD RESISTANCE Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance. Maximum resistance: 25 k per cord If the resistance is greater than maximum, replace the high– tension cord.

I have an indirect question. I want to put 2 inch receiver hitch on my 91. If you have a 2 inch receiver, where did you get it and how much approximately? I want to attach a bike rack to it. J

Do you feel a pulse at the brake pedal? or just at the steering wheel?

Craig, I completely understand your position. I have have traveled much of the same path as yourself. About the drive shaft balancing, was it sent out to any kind of special shop? Done in-house? What kind of balancing did they do? The reason why i ask is because I had the same issue with vibration not too long ago. It was (eventually) correctly diagnosed as a driveshaft out of balance. A remanufactured shaft was installed. The car still had the same problem. My mechanic was not pleased. He insisted on a brand new one and low and behold...it worked. After careful examination of the two shafts side by side revealed the discrepency. The remanu. shaft had one weight tack welded on one shaft (there are two) much like tires, static balancing is out is out of the question for these cars. A look at the new oem shaft revealed several weights of various sizes up and down both shafts. That difference, in my opinion, is really the brunt of it. The rest looked the same. I would investigate the shaft balancing done on your prior service. There is even high speed balancing for drive shafts. Go figure. Follow up on that, as it will cost you nothing but a bit of time.

That is a great point. I think all my troubles stem from the prior owner. She must have been a curb popping old fat lady. She never drove fast enough to notice any of the high-speed problems that I have dealt with. In all, I rather enjoy the challenge to keep up with the car. I still spend far less than a new car payment a month with much to spare to boot. In all, the savings from all my DIY work are staggering. All I can suggest is to find a friend who is passionate about cars. Make it a point to share conversation about your problems. You never know what you will find out. These cars are almost a hobby. It is almost a restoration project for me. Hang in there.

Cost- 700 newlexusparts.com plus markup if applicable Labor- 120 Could be done DIY but I do not have the time nor garage resources. My air suspension was replaced by the previous owner. When worked on the Lexus dealer noted that all mounts were collapsed and needed replacing. I wonder if that could have a part to play in it as well. I would sugguest replacing the differential mounts(3) first. They cost about 150 or less. Then if not satisfactory then the whole thing. My vibration started at 38 till 60 or so. Then the whole car would shake including the center console (very annoying as well). I used to get a very defined hum in the rear of the car at 40-45 till I got the diff mounts replaced. That sound went away once those were replaced but the vibration (although not as prominent) was still present. I will post a long term evaluation as well.