VMF

my dad is out of the country so i didnt even had a chanse to talk to him on the phone:(

i will check if there is a relay for that but i think it connects directly to ECU and AC ECM but i will make sure today when i will get home.

this is common problem with all the tape decks that have intelligence. they constantly check that the tape is moving in the tape in the both gears in the tape moving, if one of them is not moving they stop playing to prevent chewing the tape. there is no way around it unless you make that tape adapter has those gears interconnected.

1. if the leak is really slow then it means that there is air in the system and you should try to bleed the system and then leave the cap on the reservoir open overnight. it helps! 2. the thing with rebuild starters is that they are unpredictable and its a lot of work to change it. so its better to let this one die since by the sound u described its the clutch and gears, not the starter itself and the starter in autozone is just 1 piece, without the clutch. 3. do you have a button that says Hi, and LO? 5. i had this problem once and when ci checked plugs 2 of them were not working. actually it all depends on the way it is shaking, if it shakes and like hesitates to speed up then its a ignition problem, otherwise it might be a bad balance, but the thing with LS cars they usually have vibrations related to balance on the 65-80 mph. do the balance and have your mechanic check your ignition system. 6. timing belt is located right behind the accessory belt so you cant really distinguish which one is making noise, if you hear a whining noise at 800-1000 rpm it means that timing belt is making this noise. you can check the gallery to see where timing belt is located, i posted a few pix when i was changing my timing belt myself. water pump has a bearing as well and there is a chanse that it is going to fail and seize and it will fry the timing belt and you will have to tow your car to your mechanic and till cost you and take time. lexus recommends chaning timing belt every 90k while you can do it at 120k its no biggie. i would not recommend pushing it further since you are increasing the risk. if it was changed at 196k then you are save for another 40-50k but if you have whining noise you should be aware that one of the bearings either int the TB pulleys or in the water pump is going bad. 9 dont flush tranny but flush all other systems like engine coolant, power steering and brakes. check if the fluid in the brakes and power steering is dark and if it is then change it.

no, 1UZFE, green is bad and it shortens life of all the components that are in touch with it. aluminium engines and radiators are not compatible with ethylene glycol based coolants and it will lead to corrosion and deposit of chemicals inside the system so no green, red only!

wow thats a pretty big post! its nice to see a dedication and you described all the problems very well anyway welcome to the club. 1. the groaning also means that ure either low on the steering fluid or there is air in the system, if yuur rack is leaking slowly then you might live with it for a while and not spend 300$ for rebuilkd or 1300$ for a new rack and just do a bleeding procedure. 2. ppl on the forum told us that your starter might last you another year or 2 even with this sound so if it aint broken, dont fix it. 3. do you have air suspension? 4. at what rpm does this happen? 5. it means that u need a tuneup ASAP!!! andi mean ASAP it mean that one or 2 of ur cylinders either dont work or work very poorly and you need to change ur wires, spark plugs, rotors and rotor cups. 6.i never hear bout this problem but there is a strange logic written in the Ac/heater ECM so if it eventually gets cold everywhere ure all good since it means that ur AC is working perfectly. it might be a software bug just as well. 7. this means that your timing belt pulleys bearings are worn and you might need to change the timing belt and water pump soon. check with your local dealer if there any records of when this job was done if it was and what mileage the car had? what is ur current mileage? 8. he is right, i would recommend doing tune up/timing belt change (if requires) at the same time, it will save u some $. 9. yes, they are located right under that plastic cover which is called timing belt cover and to access them on the other side of the engine you have to remove the air intake assembly. please provide all the additional info for us then we will take more intelligent guesses of what is going on with ur car. since u just got the car i would recommend you to flush all ur systems and change all the oils inthe car.

DAMN!!! my dream job!!!! Wanda ur businness is soo cool, i'm in love with linux and servers as well, i built couple of servers as well and i'm puttin linux on them. very fun and interesting job:)

checked the connector and it seems to be ok, prolly will have to change the sensor.

i will check the sensor in 30 mins and i will let u guys know but it might be a faulty sensor as well , not just the connection itself.:( according to the manul if the sensor is open or short it should give me error code 14

i also think that it is the problem but then it should give me the error code number 14

hey ppl. got a strange problem on my ls, every time i turn the ignition on the condencer electric fan turns on. it is on even when the engine and AC is off with just the ignition on. also i have no error code from the ac sys. any ideas? i suspect that it might be the engine coolant temp sensor or cirtquit but then why am i not gettin the error code?

its the pump itself. get a rebuild one from autozone for 100$ and replace it urself. you will have to flush and bleed ur pps system after that but its pretty simple and straigh forward.

they are part of your suspension and when u hear cracking or metal noises while ure going over the speed bump or smth like it it means that its time to change em.

rack from the dealer is 1400$ while rebuild will cost u aruond 300$. rack and the hose and the pump are all diy jobs and will save u a lot of $. there are threads on the pump and rack replacement. btw rack is the one that actually turns the wheels:)

really strange, its either no spark or no fuel and both of em depend on ECU, was this the only time it happend?

why r they called perfomance? whats the diff between those and OEM? pricewise and qualitywise.

yeah, GS all the way!!!

yeah, UCF3 got a point, as to the MTEC bulbs they are not xenon, xenon kit would cost you around 400$ for dualbeam kit, MTEC is HID like but not real HIDs.

thats good to know man, but for the oil change you better search in the forum and if you will not be able to find anything for u start a new topic about oil change since this one was about the AC originally.

not really, you already have bumper to bumper warranty and this means that 99% of the parts are gonna be replaced under warranty. why pay more? this whole extended warranty thing is worth for the older cars that are out of manufacturer warranty but not for the brand new cars.

Hey Welcome to the club!!! any H4 bulb will fit but i wpould recommend MTEC brand since i used them and they lasted for a long time. you can get them for ebay around 20$ shipped. let me know if you will have trouble changing them.

there are 2 lower rubber radiator supports. go under the car and check if they are not stuck. there is nothing else that should be holding it.

yeah, i think it should be in the general discussions forum. i'm a Network+, Linux+, A+, Security+ and LPI linux certified network engineer with BS in computer sciense and currently working for city univercity of new york and studying for MBA in CUNY and MCSE and RHCE and also in search for a better job.

for the future reference NEVER and i repeat NEVER disconnect battery terminals while engine is working or you risking paying for new ECU and couple of ECMs. i dont think you have dead alternator, at least yet, signs of dead alternators are dimmed lights, non working radio and battery indicator will be constantly on.

no problem for me yet but i'm still switching to 10w instead of 5w-30 as to the oil life i think it does matter, with regular oil u have to change it every 6 month.