Robert Young

I would guess that your two black wires on the original sensor are for the heater and the white wires on the new sensor are for the heater (which shows the same color coding that Bosch sensors use). You can check this by noting the voltage on the wires without a sensor connected, one of the black wires will probably show something approaching battery voltage. The heater wires do not have defined polarity. According to the paperwork that came with a Bosch generic sensor I used, the original sensor appears to have what they call a Type B color code. If true, the blue original wire attaches to the black wire of the new sensor and the white original wire attaches to the grey wire of the new sensor.

I may not be a lot of help directly, but clearly the shop you used was clearly not competent. There are several methods to connect either XM or Sirius radios. Lexus makes a Sirius kit for the 2004 (and probably through 2006) LS 430, but that may not help you. Installation manual attached.LS430_Sirius_Radio_Installation.pdf There are a lot of installation options using material (generally on the accessories list) from: http://www.myradiostore.com/ I'm sure that Sirius (as well as XM) want you to use something called "SureConnect" that comes with the newer radios. The method is designed to be cheap and universal, to make that work on a glass antenna (which I assume the 2001 has) is a bit cumbersome, with parrelel lines essentially taped to the rear window to transfer a local FM signal from the Sirius unit to the radio in the car. With other types of antenna, it is almost as bad. With a fixed mast, you can clamp a coil over the antenna root to transfer the signal. Where the supplied technology won't work is with a retractable antenna. What you probably want is something like the "FM Direct" adapter from the folks above, they may also have something specifically for Sirius. They also include a list of other bits and pieces required to make the system work in specific cars when looking at there options.

Log on to the Lexus web site and register as an owner. You can find the factory manuals there in electronic form, as well as the option sheet the last time I looked. A sheet for the 2006 is attached.Lexus_Personalized_Settings.pdf

I put the factory XM kit from Sewell into my 2006 LS 430, but did not install the factory antenna on the trunk as they specify since I hate that location for anything permanent. The 2006 factory kit is an early Pioneer XM radio design, which uses an antenna that is actually dual (two antennas and low noise amps in the single housing). This antenna design is actually better, the later single lead XM antennas have lower gain for the terrestrial repeaters. My problems with the factory Pioneer antenna are that the magnet is not very strong (hence the reason they glue it on the trunk for the factory installation) and that the leads are not long enough for some other mounting options. I initially tried to use two of the single lead newer antennas, but that does not work as the low noise amps in the antenna must be differerent for satellite vs terrestrial repeater. Do not use one of the newer antennas with the Terk (or other) splitter to yield the satellite and terrestrial repeater connections, the signal loss due to the passive splitter makes the performance VERY poor. See the attached link for various XM parts at reasonable prices: http://www.myradiostore.com/ In paticular, for the antenna I'm using, see part # MRS Catalog No: 225-9763 for $19.99, specs are: The XMAC219/ MS1 is designed for use with the Delphi SKYFi/ SKYFi2 dual lead car cradle. Now you can replace your original SKYFi car antenna. With both Satellite (gold fakra) and Terrestrial (green fakra) SMB connectors, this antenna receives the best of both worlds. Features: Magnetically mounts to your vehicle 20' Cable Satellite and Terrestrial leads Specifications: 3.25" L x 2.10" W x 1.5" H This replacement dual antenna works very well with the LS 430 factory system, I can't hear any difference in the signal quality compared to the factory antenna. The 20' leads are long enough that I normally keep it on the interior shelf near the rear window when in town (almost all major cities have repeaters that make this location OK). The interior shelf location also works fine when driving north outside cities, as the direction to the satellite is then through the rear window. When I'm driving south for a significant distance, when the roof would block the signal path from the satellite, I simply place the antenna on the outside edge of the trunk lid using its much stonger magnet (compared with the factory Pioneer antenna) for a stable mount.

Check your battery, if you had to replace the alternator you may have killed the battery. If so, the alternator may be delivering full charge all the time and putting extra load on the engine, so loss of mpg. If you can get a current probe on the line to the battery, you should see high rate charge for a short time (no more than a few minutes) after starting the car. Alternative, take the battery to Autozone, the ones in So. Cal. typically have a bettery tester that you can use with hope that you will buy from them. If you need a new battery, I highly recommend the Optima type spiral wound design, its a bit more money but worth it.

Short answer is yes, worth fixing it before you spend $$ for another alignment.

I had the same question, but thought I'd also mention that the Version 6 DVD apparently (and probably this Version 7 DVD as well) will eliminate the lockout workarounds. Please see discussion established in some of the other threads if the lockout workarounds are important to you.

Not on the Lexus site that I've found. I put the full manual together using the full version of Adobe Acrobat without problem. The manual section is about 10 Meg and the Nav is about 3 Meg, so too big to pass the attachment restriction on this site.

According to Sewell Lexus, they cut a replacement full key bsed on Vin number so it should work. I understand that a special diagnostic tool that the dealers have is required to "mate" a new key with the car. Since you obviously didn't get the two normal keys Lexus supplies with a new LS 430, the dealer can also delete the keys you don't have from the cars memory at the same time.

Toyota in general must be going to this "new" design (really it is an older design, similar to what I've had on old Alfa Romeos). This new for Toyota design is also on the new Tundra pickup (at least on the new 5.7L engine).

For what it's worth, Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF claims to be compatible with the Toyota Type IV spec. It is fully synthetic and available at Pep Boys, etc. for around $5 per qt. You can download the product data sheet from: Castrol

I've just been working with Ox sensors on our Volvo, so these comments apply to Bosch sensors in a Bosch engine management system. However, some of my observations may be useful. The 4 wire sensors contain a heater (two of the wires, generally the same color because it doesn't matter how they are connected) and I believe a couple of ohms is probably about right, the Bosch sensor was 2.7 ohms cold. I purchased a PC based OBD code / sensor reader from http://www.autoenginuity.com/products.html and have been very happy with it, but check their site for any specific comments on Lexus compatibility. Note, the company also "sells" on eBay at a discount and if purchasing get the USB version for ease of use with a laptop. With the OBD code / sensor reader, it actually collects and will plot a time history of the Ox sensor(s) and the impact they have on mixture control. I found that the second sensor on our Volvo had an output of zero volts (in-line engine with a single exhaust, 4 wire Ox sensors located pre and pst catalytic converter). I thought that this meant that the sensor had simply died and I replaced it, but the new sensor still showed zero volts at the OBD interface. I then started running harnes and found that the Ox sensor itself is probably operated using a current source from the engine control computer, with the difference in voltage between the two sensor lines the actual control signal. This is likely the reason that there is no apparent resistance on the sensor wires, the Bosch sensor didn't show any either. In my case, the replace sensor showed good readings at the connectors, with a difference voltage of roughly 0.8 V (within the expected range). This meant that in my case the sensor interface with the engine control computer was working, as was the sensor itself (my orginal sensor was probably OK as well). What I think happened is that a differential amplifier inside the engine control computer has "crapped out" (background, I'm an electrical engineer by schooling from many years ago). I certainly hope your story doesn't end like this, because a new engine control computer from Volvo is $1250 and I'm looking for a used one. Fortunately, the car still runs fine but it might fail its next SMOG test in two years.

Thanks to those above that continue to work this. Its on all the forums that the Generation 5 of the nav system (2006 IS, 2007 model year LS and others) apparently have no override beyond cutting / splicing the wires (at least I haven't seen anything on the forums). I didn't know that the yearly map update might also lock that out for those of us with the Generation 4 nav system (2005-2006 LS). We puchased our LS 430 in early 2006, so it came with the 2005 map data (Ver 5.1) and the override works. I wasn't planning to purchase the 2006 Ver 6.1 upgrade, but now it appears that any future upgrades should be treated with caution. It might be pssible for someone with the 2006 Ver 6.1 software to find a 2005 Ver 5.1 dvd and get the override function at the loss of some new development map data. I've seen references to making a copy of the nav dvd on various computer hardware sets, with some discussion that specific dvd burner software and specific brands of discs work and that others may not (not surprising with anything that Microsoft touches!).

If your system cycles the AC clutch based on a pressure switch, that might be defective. For the LS 430, the AC pressure sensor feeds into the AC control assembly (computer), so it is not directly linked into the circuit that operates the AC compressor clutch like lesser cars (our old Ford Taurus comes to mind). I'd look into the Lexus /Toyota site: http://techinfo.toyota.com/ for the appropriate repair instructions for your car, I think they still charge $10 to download all you want over 24 hours. You may want to put a pressure guage at the low pressure side and see if it indicates that the compressor should be off. In a normal system for the LS 430 the low pressure side should be 0.15 to 0.25 MPa (approx. 22 - 37 psi) and the high pressure side should be 1.37 to 1.57 MPa (approx. 202 - 231 psi).

Several sites discuss that the original flex (typically rubber covered) hoses for an R-12 system will leak more than hoses specifically designed for R-134a, so you may want to replace those along with the conversion. The shop doing the conversion can probably make or acquire appropriate hoses for you. If the shop can't pull a vacuum during the conversion, you will know there is a significant leak that also needs to be fixed. The alternative to replacing the hoses is to purchase a few additional cans of R-134a and a refill kit, before individual use of R-134a is also banned (California is talking about that).

From some earlier chain (I've not done this, but I am thinking about it): According to Darrel at lexus-parts.com, Sport Suspension for the 2005 LS has the following parts: 48812-50130 rear stabilizer bar 48818-50020 rear stabilizer bushing With a Vernier caliper, measured the stock bar at 13mm and the Sport bar at 14mm.

I don't know what happened to the attachment. It wouldn't work even after I cut the file down, thinking it was too large. The manual section you want is #33, I'll try "cut & paste" here. PARKING BRAKE − PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM 33−3 ADJUSTMENT 1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL 2. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE (SEE PAGE 33−29) - below 3. INSTALL REAR WHEEL Torque: 103 NVm (1,050 kgfVcm, 76 ftVlbf) 4. INSPECT PARKING BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL (a) Strongly step on the parking brake pedal. (B) Release the parking brake. © Slowly depress the parking brake pedal all the way once more and count the number of notches. Parking brake pedal travel: 6 to 8 notches at 300 N (31 kgf, 67.5 lbf) 5. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL (a) Remove the instrument cluster finish panel end. (B) Remove the instrument cluster finish panel center lower. © Remove the instrument panel under cover sub−assy No.1. (d) Remove the coin box assy. (e) Remove the outer mirror switch assy. (f) Remove the instrument panel safety pad sub−assy No.1. (g) Remove the instrument panel under cover sub−assy No.2. (h) Depress the parking brake pedal 5 notches to make room for the procedure, and loosen the lock nut. (i) Release the parking brake pedal to the original position. Turn the parking brake wire adjusting nut No.1 until the parking brake pedal travel is correct. (j) Using a spanner or equivalent to hold the parking brake adjusting nut, tighten the lock nut. Torque: 6.0 NVm (61 kgfVcm, 53 in.Vlbf) (k) Count the number of clicks after depressing and releasing the parking brake pedal 3 or 4 times. (l) Check whether the parking brake drags or not. If the parking brake drags, adjust the shoe clearance. (m) When operating the parking brake pedal, check that the parking brake pedal indicator light comes on at the first notch. If not, adjust the parking brake switch installation position. (n) Install the instrument panel under cover sub−assy No.2. (o) Install the instrument panel safety pad sub−assy No.1. (p) Install the outer mirror switch assy. (q) Install the coin box assy. ® Install the instrument panel under cover sub−assy No.1. (s) Install the instrument cluster finish panel center lower. (t) Install the instrument cluster finish panel end. 21. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE (a) Remove the hole plug - picture shows its on the front of the disc. (B) Turn the shoe adjuster and expand the shoes until the disc locks. © Return the shoe adjuster 7 notches. - Note: Picture in Section 32 shows use of a standard rear drum brake adjust "spoon" tool (d) Install the hole plug.

See attached, this is from the Toyota / Lexus Technical Website: http://techinfo.toyota.com/ which is the best source and a great value (approx. $10 for 24 hrs of downloading). The unfortunate side of the site is that the information is in 1000's of little .pdf files, which I "patched" together with Adobe Acrobat. I would recommend always checking the site before doing anything really complicated, in case the procedures have been updated.

If replacing the Lexus parts doesn't fix the problem, take a serious look at anything from the throttle body to the heads that might be leaking air (gasket failure, etc.). The emissions system will add fuel to ANY air leak in an attempt to keep the Ox sensor readings in balance and give you a high idle speed. Ford is notorious for this type of problem, normally created by a failed Nippon Denso valve that is used by their computer to adjust idle speed.

I found this on one of the dealer sites, where they sell the XM radio kit. What @$#% is the antenna on the trunk lid, enough to turn me off! LS430_XM_Radio_Installation.pdf

The original question didn't discuss the driving conditions, but I've seen 12 MPG when driving in rush hour traffic in West LA in the 2006 LS 430. In reality, that was probably not bad when you consider if you're not moving that the mileage is ZERO and traffic in West LA spends a lot of time not moving! In my normal commute, fairly short in fairly heavy rush hour traffic, I get 14 to 15 MPG. On the open road it is a much better story, I just drove from Reno to LA (all Interstate and almost all 80+) and saw 29 MPG, note that the trip is NOT flat as you go over Donner Pass and the Grapevine. The LS 430 is the best highway mileage car I've owned as well as having a reasonably large engine, I'm impressed.

HankJ Hope someone got back to you before this, but the answer is simple. Check out the web site: techinfo.toyota.com You have to register, but for a reasonable amount of money ($10 ro so) you can get access for 24 hours and download the maintenance manuals, etc.

See attached HID_Lamp_Replacement.pdf

For those that don't have a nav system to attached the camera output into, you can go a total standalone route at Pep Boys for about $150. You get a tiny screen that you have to mount somewhere, but its better than nothing for things like vans, trucks, etc. We have the nav on the LS 430 and the camera is a really nice feature.

See attached if you want to use the factory system, I've seen some of the dealers selling the Sirius receiver. LS430_Sirius_Radio_Installation.pdf