SPORTcoupe300

If you take it to any place that installs alarms (avoid chains like Circuit CIty, Good Guys, etc.) they should be able to do it for about $50-100 Just print out the directions posted above and have them give you an estimate. Good luck. (Thanks AJ :D)

I went with the MagnaFlow 14829 on my SC3 and I'm happy. Here's a link to 2 short vids of an SC4 with the same mufflers: http://intellexual.net/movies/magnaflow2.5.mpg http://intellexual.net/movies/magnaflow-sc400.mpg

I'm running 245/40-18 tires on my 18x8 rims and they work just fine. I've nailed one curb at that angle where you cross your fingers and hope the tire didn't dismount and it held up fine. 235/40 should be perfect for a 7.5 inch width.

The guys at "Good Guys" are morons. How can you predict the size of the sub if you haven't even taken off the panel? The SCs came with stock 10 Pioneer Free-Air subs. Anyone who says otherwise can just grab a ruler and make themselfves look stupid.

Sounds interesting. $63 is definitely a deal. If you end up selling it, are you just gonn ahave the sub run off the stock amp? Replacing the sub without giving it a little more power is a waste of money and time in my opinion. The sound doesn't noticeably change unless you feed that thing some decent wattage.

Are you telling me you got that free of charge?

Converting cornering lights into fog lights This modification is specifically for the 1992-1994 SC coupes, which came with cornering lamps instead of foglamps. Foglamps were introduced on 1995 production cars. Since it is an installation procedure for a basic automotive relay, you can use the same instruction applied to other electrical circuits on the car (DRLs, extra foglights, etc). Please do note that the 92-94 cornering lamp assembly is different from the 95-96 and 97-00 fog lamp assemblies. Though the 92-94 looks a lot like the 95-96, you can not interchange them between bumpers because of subtle shape and dimensional differences. The 92-94 lamps run on 15w bulbs whereas the 95+ run on 55w H3 bulbs so the illumination on the road is not the same. The 95+ fog lights are brighter, but the beam pattern is a bit wider on the 92-94 conversion. First you'll need to buy a few items: a 4 or 5-pin 30-amp automotive relay, an inline fuse holder, a 30-amp fuse, about 20-ft 12-awg wire, a box of t-taps (5 is all you'll need if you don't mess up), roll of electrical tape, and good solid connectors: either use solder or buy male-female disconnects. All of this stuff is available at Radio Shack and should cost you no more than $10-15. Now you need to get to know the relay. A relay is essentially a mechanical switching device that is activated by a low voltage input to activate a high voltage switch. In this application, your low current trigger will be tapped off the parking lights. Your high current output will be the power supplied to the auxiliary lights by the battery via the relay. The relay itself should be a 1-inch black plastic cube with 5 spades on one face, and some sort of mounting tab on another. The 5 spades are labelled something like 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a (at least these are Bosch's labelling). - 30 is your input voltage for the switched device. - 87a is an open circuit (no power). - 87 is a closed circuit that supplies the high current to your auxiliary lights. - 85 and 86 can be interchangeable, but they are the low voltage leads from your parking lights. You can choose either headlights, city/parking lights, or sidemarker lights as your signal trigger. I used the city lights because they were easiest to access, the relay can be switched with an input signal as low as 150mV, and in case anything went wrong, no big deal. Hopefully everyone here already knows that every DC electrical device requires two connections: a postive (live) and negative (ground). The darker/colored wire is always live (yes black is a color) and the lighter/white is always the ground wire. (in AC it's slightly different). I believe on our cars, the live is an off-red and the ground is white. STEP 1 Basically, your first connection is going to be two t-taps off the both cornering lights' positive wires. Now connect the two t-taps you just made with two runs of 12-awg wire, and lead both wires back to the battery pan. Twist the two wires together into one single wire and connect them to the 87 spade. The 87a spade will have no connection because it is the open switch. STEP 2 Lexus uses a switched ground system which presents a problem because your cornering lights aren't always grounded. So to resolve this issue, go back to the cornering lights and t-tap both of the negative (ground) wires. Run two lengths of 12-awg wire from these t-taps---the same way you just did with the positive wire---to the negative post on the car battery. Your circuit is now properly grounded. STEP 3 Next send a wire from the battery's negative post to the 85 spade. STEP 4 Now make another t-tap off of the positive wire from your chosen signal trigger (in my case the city light), usually the closest one is the best. Once you've established this t-tap, run another piece of 12-awg wire from the t-tap to 86 spade. STEP 5 Last is to establish the big power! You will connect the battery's 12v positive post to the 30 spade. BUT before you do that, use that inline fuse holder you bought. It will be a black, plastic, well... "fuse holder", with a looped wire running from one end to the other. Cut the loop into two bare ends. Connect one end to the 12v positive battery post, and connect the other end to the 30 spade on the relay. You may need to splice or crimp extra wire to make the run to the 30 space. It is critical that the fuse holder is very close to the battery. Like less than 12-inches of wire between them both. Make sure you weren't eager and stuck a fuse in that fuse-holder yet, because that would create a live circuit. STEP 6 Right now the relay system is completely wired up, but there is no fuse in the holder. Therefore no current is running through it so it is still safe. At this point, you'll want to check all connections from and to the relay and once you've determined all is secured and well, insulate it! You want to make the relay water and weatherproof. I did so by wrapping the entire thing in 6 layers of electrical tape. Feel free to use more if you want. Then tuck or mount the relay somewhere safe (IE somwhere away from water exposure and engine heat). I put mine next to the battery pan which remains relatively dry and cool. STEP 7 Now you can insert the 30-amp fuse you bought and test out the relay circuit. Turn the light wand in your car to activate the parking lights. Your cornering lights should turn on as well. Courtesy of Rich @ http://www.intellexual.net

Three letters for you: H. I. D. :D

If you've got a multimeter (no self-installer should be without), your should check if the remote turn-on wire is still good. It's possible that it got fried at the factory amp, although not likely. Which amp did you end up buying? I found my RF 301S for $95 I bought for $130......grrrr.

Glad I could help. Usually when I'm convinced a fuse is blown but I don't know which one, I've found it helpful to take a laser pointer and shine it at each fuse. It illuminates much better than a flashlight and there is no need to pull all the fuses. Did you wire the amp yourself? If so, did you use the blue wire on the back of the head unit for the remote turn-on?

So was that fuse blown? There's a way to check if the amp works before sending it back. With the +12V and the GROUND connected to the amp, take a small piece of wire and bridge the +12V to the place for the remote turn-on. If the amp powers up than the amp is fine and it's your source for the remote that's fried.

That one I circled is a 7.5 Amp fuse titled "Rad No. 2" The one underneath the hood is "Rad No. 1" so I guess the one in the picture is your fuse. If have any more questions, feel free to get a hold of me. Contact info is in PM.

Not sure what you mean here. I used to compete with my Camaro and when I went from a 600 watt amp to a 1000 watt, my dB jumped by over 10. The SC doesn't need a system that pounds. It just needs somehting a little stronger than stock. I've achieved the balance where it sounds rich inside the car, and there's no noise outside the car. I'd love to have one of those eDs and a SoundStream amp but with my current financial situation, that's not an option. I'm thinking anything over 300 watts RMS would be too loud in the SC.

Very nice mikee. *bows* I'd would have loved to get one of the eDs, SoundStreams, or Image Dynamics. I even looked at the JL (even though I think JL is way overpriced). Only problem is that the 10IB4 was discontinued, and the others are just expensive and difficult to locate. When I make the money, I might go for the eD with a SOundStream amp.

Thanks for you input Theo. You're right, the best input to the amp should come in 4V RCA flavor, but we were talking about changing just the sub (stock head unit) I'm plenty happy with the mids and highs, but there wasn't enough bass for me. I don't want to put in an aftermarket HU because I like things looking stock. Like I said before, I tried the external converter (from high level speaker wire to low level RCA) and it performed miserably. I then figured out that RF's high inputs worked very well. If I wanted to make my stereo really nice, yes I'd swap out damn near everything, but I'm pretty happy with the rest and I'm pretty sure there are at least a few people in my shoes.

It was sold for $2900 Not a bad deal because it included 525cc injectors, Stock TT intercooler with piping, etc... It had everything needed for the install except for fuel management.

Airbags. The greatest thing is checking the previous buys of the guys that bid on this car. They're not like us, that's all I can say.

If they mean for you to power your amp by that tiny 20(ish) gauge wire, they're on crack. Those wires aren't meant to hold more than 5 amps. The average 300Watt amp draws almost 20amps. Run Separate power and connect the ground to the frame of the car. With the knowledge that the remote turn on can be any steady 12 volt source that is off when the car is off, you can get pretty creative. As I mentioned before, it's up to you how you want to wire the remote turn on. I usually get it from my ignition and put a separate manual switch on it. This way, I can flip the switch to turn off the amp if I want to listen to my radio while the car is off (key must still be on ignition). As for the inputs for the amp, if the amp is good quality such as the RF, using the High Level Input should be fine (Mine sounds great) I am strongly against that little harness.

If I had the $$$ for this I'd be picking it up with 0 hesitation: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...MEBWA%3AIT&rd=1 I'm seriously thinking about taking a loan out for this.

Thanks. I'm not sure what the limits are on the voltage the RF is designed to receive but for me, using the high level inputs worked much much better than the conversion to RCA. There was a lot more whine with the RCA converter, even after I added a ground loop isolator. The other annoying thisng with the RCA converter setup was that the amp would only pick up loud thumps in the low frequency range. So when I was playing music, the sub would only hit on the hardest notes (sounds terrible) I like when the sub is constantly doing something (enriching the music instead of hitting once every few seconds) The only noise/whine I get now is when I turn the gain(output volume) on the RF to over 70% but this is no problem since it produces enough juice at 50% gain.

These are the Magnaflow 14829s: (Click Here for Bigger Image)

Chicago: Check your PM Mikee: Where did you get that piece from? He's probably talking about an aftermarket head unit there. Anyways, here are the pics you asked for: Cover on Cover Removed Closeup of bracket Zip Tie If you want to see the pics in more detail, check my car in the "garage"

Mikee: I did run a separate 10 gauge cable for my amp. For the remote turn on there are infinitely many places you can hook it up. If you are gonna run a separate power wire (highly recommended), might as well run the remote turn-on alongside it. To find out where to place it, get a multimeter and check some places on the fusebox while the ignition is on and while it's off. The remote turn-on wire needs a 12Volt signal. As long as it's 12 volts, it doesn't matter where it comes from. For mine, I used one of those blue electrical taps to tap one of the wires coming to the stock amplifier, so my amp turns on when the stock amp turns on. One thing I like to do is put a switch on the remote turn-on wire in case I want to listen to the music while the car is off without draining the battery too much.

The "TC" is for Traction Control and I'm guessing the "E" has something to do with turning off. :D

Hey Mike, The ECU will re-learn within the next few days and you'll be back to normal.