SPORTcoupe300

Mikee: My amp is mounted behind the carpet stuff and is completely invisible from the trunk. I'll get a picture within the next few days, but just so you can picture it, if you open your trunk and look to the left, there is a spot where you are supposed to have a medical kit (most people don't have it). My amp sits snugly behind that. It's held down by 1 direct screw, 1 metal bracket piece(custom made), and 1 zip-tie. I know this doesn't sound too secure, but trust me, I've whipped this car around many times and the amp is solid. There is no need to touch any stock harnesses. The only thing you'll need to do is cut the wires coming to the stock 10" and get them to your amp. As for your mid issue, I've found that the sub now produces enough low to balance it all out and I'm happy with the way the system is now. So to answer your question: I have no idea whether the 4" are run by the amp or directly by the headunit. I'm pretty sure it's the amp though. Right now I have my Bass and Treble both turned to 75% and it sounds very nice. This system (I have Premium, not Nakimichi) is one of the best stock systems I have ever heard. It was a little weak in the bass department and I have taken care of that. Now I do not feel the need to do anything else to it.

Mikee: You're right about the higher resistance in the Rockford probably not doing any harm to the amp, but I didn't reccomend it for 2 reasons: 1) There is the remote possibility that the amp will not like such a high resistance 2) The speaker will produce less than half the sound the original did....so what's the point. I turned up the gain on my amp a bit today. I am SOOO impressed with the lows. Got a few rattles as it gets into the 50+ hZ but down low it sound damn beautiful. If I turn the gain up above about 70%, I get a weird whining noise in the speaker. No problem though.....the gain is at 50% now and it thumps good. Next step: Dynamat

Hmmmm....*runs up to the attic to check* . . . . . The stock 10" is a 1 Ohm so I wouldn't reccomend it. Just wait for your amp. If you think the sound will improve with just the sub, it won't. Because of the difference in resistance, it will probably sound even quieter.

The clutch has a much further throw than the brake, therefore a heel-toe from brake to clutch would be nearly impossible to do, and I really don't see how it would be used.

Isn't there a button somewhere? I think it's called "ECT" I have a 5 spd so I'm not much help.

SmartAzz: My amp receives the signal directly from the wires that used to power the stock 10" Other than that, the amp is absolutely independent of the rest of the stereo system. (Actually, the remote turn-on wire is also integrated but that I leave up to you. Some people like the amp to turn on with ignition, others with the radio. I prefer a separate switch so I can listen to the music while the car is off without killing the battery.) I think I wrote about this before, but I'm too lazy to look it up: I tried the Hi-Low converter and used RCA inputs for the amp. There was a lot of engine noise and a ground loop isolator didn't help. So then I tried wiring the wires that came to the old sub, right to the amp's high-level inputs and it sounds clean and clear.

:D

I was at almost 6000 RPM at 135MPH so I'm pretty sure the limit on top speed is the rev limiter. I do not advise speeds of over 95 though. Here in California, anything over 95 is considered Reckless Driving? I don't remember what they call it but basically, it's a BIG fine and 2 points with no option of driving school.

Hmm.....which link? If I posted the wrong link somewhere, my bad. My model is the RFZ3410 which was discontinued in 2003 with the arrival of their new lineup. They have a similar sub now (P110S4) which has a mounting depth of 5.2 inches but I can't guarantee perfect fit because my RFZ barely cleared the opening in the rear deck. I actually had to bend back the terminals on the sub to get it to go down. You can still find the RFZ3410s on eBay and prolly in few shops. (Should be discounted. If not, mention that they're discontinued and you should get a little discount.) Just make sure you get a 4 Ohm sub because that amp bridges to 300 watts @ 4 Ohms. When I got mine, they accidentally gave me the 8 Ohm sub and I didn't catch the mistake until I got home.

1996 Introduced OBD-II whch basically means more electronics. It's a thing of prefference. The SC300 guys get the 95 because they're easier to turbo than the 96 and I think it's best to get the newest car possible. That's all I know. :D

Hey Chicago, Glad all my writing has inspired someone. I would advise against the RFP4410 for 2 reasons: 1) Neither the RFP4410 or the RFZ3410 are designed for free-air, but the RFZ is closer suited for our setup. 2) The RFP4410 has a mounting depth of 5.75 inches while the RFZ3410 is 4.7 inches. (You'll be surprised at how much of a difference 1 inch can make ;) ) If you have and know how to use a multimiter, I'd be glad to get on the horn with you and walk you through it. On the other hand, if you don't know what a multimeter is, I'd reccomend you take it to a well acclaimed shop near you and have them do it. They shouldn't charge too much since the setup should be straight forward. Lemme know if I can help you with anything else. P.S. Either way you go, 10 gauge should be plenty. The amp sucks a maximum of 15 amps so larger gauge is not required.

Mikee: I'f you've seen the space underneath the sub, you must surely know that making something to fit there would be a big pain in the !Removed!. The rockford in my car has been working flawlessly for over 3 months now so I'm not quite sure where you get your info. Where did you get RFZ-2412 from anyways? Chicago: I'm not sure on the difference between those 2 models. The great thing about the 3410 is that it's got a mounting depth of just over 5.5 inches, allowing it to clear the gas tank. The new RF sub I linked to in the previous post also has a proper mounting depth, and should therefore work. EDIT: Just found a set of 2 3410 subs on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2468800642 You can buy the 2 and sell 1 to a fellow SC owner. :D Another:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39774 And Another:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39774 You get the picture. They're out there.

What offset should these rims be? I'm looking into running a staggered setup in the future, but have no idea what offsets I would need.

So are you looking at their ShockWave 9000s? Looks pretty cool. Wish I had the money. I'd definitely boost before I do any more suspension though. My Eibachs are doing just fine for now.

Boost is for cheaters! :P (god I wanna cheat!) I don't race unless I feel safe enough to do so. We'll take it off the boards though.

Sorry you post has been sitting here so long. Yes you have the options of replacing the 10" with a better 10" or going with the box-n-the-trunk. I went the replacement way and am very happy with my sound. Here are the parts: Sub Amp Good luck!

I prefer Rockford Fosgate because they are very reasonable on prices and make some good quality audio equipment.

Pyle screens are fine. I have a friend who's been running one for over a year with no issues. If you wanna see some REALLY cheap LCDs, check out Innovatek LCDs. Gotta tell you though: for the SC, I reccomend getting a DVD player that goes underneath the seat somewhere, and go with the screens that go in the sunvisors and headrests for the rear audience. The reason for this is that our sound system is complicated and would have to be completely redone if you take out the head unit. Good luck.

Hmmm......this is an Audio/Video Board. Try posting this in the appropriate board. Wish I was a Mod and was able to move it myself. Belt is easier to change with 2 people and a big wrench.

It's been done many many times and cost varies depending on how crazy you wanna go and how cheap you can get parts/labor. If you want a ballpark: engine+tranny+LSD+ecu+labor comes to about $8-10K

Haha....you have 3 subs. Now if I lose I'll really be embarrassed. :D Although you do have 1 full liter on me. I guess I'm relying more on my shifting. Anyways, 3 car races can get a bit difficult (dangerous) especially on Skyline (and that's the best local place I know for from-the-line racing) Maybe we'll take turns. I'm thinking late-night race since skyline is rarely empty long enough during the day. Lemme know what you think. If you wanna take this off the boards, my e-mail is nalan12@sanbrunocable.com

AJ: I'm sure you've already come across this place but I though I'd link it anyways: http://www.kiyoshis.com/performance/suspen...ver/index.shtml The stuff is called Canover and I've been told it's a good quality setup. I was on the phone with one of the guys over there and he said I'd be looking at $4000 installed. That's with 2 compressors, 4-way switching(if I remember correctly) A guy named Din from CL runs this setup.

That looks proper. Some nice jig-saw work. :D

I'm not gonna challenge what you've posted, but how about I challenge you to a little Skyline Blvd race. We'll go from the stoplight at Skyline and College up towards Westborough (I'm giving you the advantage by going uphill) PM me. :D

It would take all the fun out of doing it yourself.