1990LS400

Thanks, Billy. Gread minds think alike - velcro was the first thing I thought of but I will spend the $68.38 Sewell wants for a new center visor if I can't figure out how to fix mine. Can you tell what keeps your sun visor in the up position? I would have thought I would remember since I've flipped these little visors up and down hundreds of times over 22 years. I don't remember there being any resistance when I pulled the center visor down but I do seem to remember that they sort of snapped up into the recess in the roof - it's one of those things I just took for granted and didn't pay any attention to.

Does a bear $#!+ in the woods? Your post reminds me of the 60 Minutes segment a few years ago about the sale of the late Andy Rooney's RX300. The car changed hands over and over before it was finally sold again by a used car dealer at a price that vastly exceeded what Rooney got for it. The Toyota/Lexus V6 engine of this error had known slugging issues but the vehicles affected were mostly ones that did not have proper maintenance. We have essentially the same V6 engine in our 98 Camry, which we bought new, and we have not had the sludge issue in its 125,000 miles. But our Camry has had an oil change every 5,000 miles and nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic oil has ever been used. If the engine checks out by your mechanic, it might be fine. A recommendation I have seen numerous times is that the value covers should be removed to check for sludge. And of course do a compression test. A leak-down test wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Starting in the last week, the center sun visor will no longer stay in the up/closed position. I can't tell if there was originally a spring that held it up, friction from some missing fitting or something else. I even surmised that the rectangular "bump" in the panel above the visor might have had a magnet above it that held the visor in the up/closed position - but I find no trace of anything magnetic in the panel or metal inside the center sun visor. Whatever held the visor in the up position did it with enough force that the rectangular bump in the panel made an impression in the cloth of the visor. Would one (or more) of you fine gentlemen (or ladies) look at your center sun visor and see if you can identify what holds in the UP/closed position? And has anyone removed one of these things - either on purpose or by accident? I'm guessing it is held in place by friction fittings like much of the interior trim. I can't see any screws in the diagram at www.toyodiy.com Attached is a photo with an arrow pointing to the mystery "bump" and the diagram from www.toyodiy.com Thanks!

I don't think the indie Lexus shop I use has ever replaced brake shims on any of our cars. The one time I did a front brake job on my previous LS400, I bought an OEM pad kit that included shims and other stuff. I remember that the old shims looked fine and regretting paying so much more for the unneeded extra parts. I don't see how having the calipers pressing against the shims could wear them out but maybe someone else can enlighten us.

To me, $200 before tax for a front brake job on an LS400 that includes machining the rotors is incredibly reasonable and especially at a shop that specializes in Lexus and when the work is done by a former Lexus dealer mechanic. And the indie shop I use doesn't give me the kind of "B.S." I get at the Lexus dealer -- a Lexus dealer service writer told me about 25,000 miles ago that my front brake pads were so thin that they were dangerous. Yeah, right. I don't know if all indie mechanics have the equipment to machine rotors but this shop, which I have been using since about 1996, does. The shop is owned by the guy who was my favorite service writer at the local Lexus dealership in the early 1990's. The shop owner even hooked me up with the broker from whom I bought my 2000 LS400 in 2003 - in only two or three hours after I placed my "order" with very specific requirements on color, mileage and equipment ... easiest car purchase I ever made. From about 1993 to 1996 I used another indie Lexus specialty repair shop that was owned by a former Lexus dealer service manager and which was (the Lexus dealer people hated it) within sight of the Lexus dealership. $133 of this front brake job was labor and the rest of the $200 was parts and "shop supplies". Based on my measurements of the old brake pads after they were removed, they would have made it to the 150,000 service but a $55 brake wear sensor might have had to be replaced.

There are tools made just for doing this: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=car+trim+removal+tool&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=14504006850&ref=pd_sl_l28t3im3y_b I bought mine at a local auto parts store. I don't remember how much mine cost but it was cheap ... I've used it countless times.

Thanks, but I think that procedure only deals with linking the key to the door locks. Here is an example of the "pedal dance" process. www.locksmithcharley.com/toyota-obp-e-instructions.doc Yes, I think you are correct. When I now visualize the routine a Lexus dealer service writer did in 2003 to program new keys for me, the guy did flail around like a mad man with the pedals.

Yes, Randy, the front brake roters were machined during both brake jobs at the same indie Lexus repair shop and they again look like new. I just went out to the garage and measured the front rotor thickness - both are right at 28 mm. The specs listed in the repair manuals for this car say that 28 mm is what they were when new. Amazing! The minimum acceptable thickness for the front rotors according to the specs is 26 mm which I will certainly never get down to. My snow tires - Bridgestone Blizzak WS70 - went on a week ago today (11/19) and I'm toning down my tendency to blast around freeway cloverleafs. I suspect the Blizzaks have less rolling resistance that the Michelin MXV4's I been using Spring/Summer/Fall. The trip computer said 27.8 mpg after our 370 mile Thanksgiving trip in zero wind conditions which is the best I've observed under similar conditions in 8+ years with this car. I'm not really obsessive ( :whistles: ) but I've tracked every gallon of fuel I've put in cars for about 40 years

I suppose the key chip could be bad. What do you mean by "pedal dance"? I don't see anything in the attached document that involves pressing any of the pedals. The document covers the 1998-2000 GS300/400 and I am assuming it covers the 2000 GS300 since it covers my 2000 LS400. 1998 LS400 key programming.pdf

I had the front brake pads replaced today for the second time with 74,098 miles on them (odometer reading 145,391) and they were all still well over the minimum 1 mm replacement specification. The work was done, including resurfacing the rotors and using OEM pads, by my favorite indie Lexus repair shop. Total cost including tax was $217 - pretty good compared to what a Lexus dealer charges. OEM pads last a long time! I tried to take photos but the pads didn't cooperate. The inner pads wore faster than the outer pads. The lowest inner pad was at just less than 2 mm and the other inner pad was at about 3 mm. The two outer pads were at between 4 mm and 5 mm. Same as when they were replaced the first time, the front pads did not wear evenly. I had planned to drive the car until the "check brakes" warning came on but I was starting to get some noticable pulsating through the brake pedal. And the most worn pad looked thinner than it really was when I did a visual check last saturday when I mounted my snow tires. The factory installed front pads were replaced in March 2006 at 71,293 miles after the "check brakes" warning came on and also required a sensor replacement. This should be the last time I have the front pads replaced since the third front pad replacement will be necessary at about 220,000 miles and I plan to part with the car no later than 2015 when it will be at about 200,000 miles. The rear brake pads were replaced for the first time at 120,000 miles and should make it to 240,000 miles when it will be up to its next owner to replace them. Soooo many people replace brake pads on Lexus cars far earlier than needed - often because dealers and repair shops are looking for a quick buck. I'm getting a kick out of potentially driving a car to 200,000 miles with only two front brake pad and one rear brake pad replacement and no need to replace brake rotors. I never got more than about 25,000 miles out of front brake pads on the last Mercedes I owned and which I drove from new to 210,000 miles and it required a couple of sets of rotors too.

I have no idea but do you have a "Batteries Plus" or similar store nearby? I let them replace batteries in keys and remote fobs. They have the specialized tools (e.g. screwdrivers with tiny blades) needed and don't charge extra for the work. I think the last battery replacement I had Batteries Plus do on an old style Lexus key a few months ago cost around $5.

Get a new mechanic! It doesn't sound like the guy is equipped or has the knowledge to work on modern cars.

OK ... a calm "rant": I learned still again on Friday how erractic and silly the local Lexus dealer can be on pricing. Not many months ago, I priced a new battery since I intended to replace mine before winter - we've gotten the longest life from Toyota branded batteries. I was quoted $115 including installation, which, of course, is about a five minute job. The battery was the same part number as sold by a nearby Toyota dealer for $105 but is warrantied in a Lexus only if purchased from a Lexus dealer. When I stopped on Friday to have the new battery installed, I almost had the work done without checking the price again. New price: $157. New price including installation: $250 Needless to say, I laughed and left and will either buy a sub-$100 Everstart battery at Walmart or a Kirkland battery at Costco. ------- Here is the "official" word on LPS customization from the Lexus website: The Lexus Personalized Settings (LPS) can be programmed in two ways: For most models equipped with the available Navigation System, the driver can modify the settings themselves; for other models, including those without a Navigation System, programming is done by your Lexus dealer via a one-time, complimentary offer during the first 12 months from the date the vehicle is sold. Please see your Lexus dealer for more information.

Bad gas is rare but a possibility. Departing from "common wisdom" I sometimes run my tank down until the low fuel warning light comes on. My view is that I might as well get rid of as much of the crap in the fuel as quickly as possible. You might try running the fuel down until the low fuel light comes on and switching gas stations/brands for the next tank full. I know that the spark plug replacment interval for the 98 LS400 was 90,000 miles - is it the same for the 98 GS400? (The interval was increased to 120,000 for the 99 LS400 when iridium spark plugs were used.) Did you have the 90,000 mile service done per your maintenance booklet?

The following thread contains a rambling account of how to do it on a GS similar to yours: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6793&st=0&p=39498&hl=++headlights%20++adjust&fromsearch=1entry39498 And this thread contains a PDF on how to do it on a 98-05 GS but the idea is the same: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32415&st=0&p=209603&hl=++headlights%20++adjust&fromsearch=1entry209603 I found these and other threads on adjusting GS headlights by searching the GS forum for "+adjust +headlights". I don't know if using the plus sign is documented but that is how it works on many forums.

Nah ... who would want to read one of those: http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM53852U/pdf/08_Customizing_U.pdf

If only I could remember important stuff! Reasons I might remember the "barrier state" issue is that I worked for the Missouri State Highway Department during summer breaks from college ... and cousin Floyd was a civil engineer with the same Highway Department. Floyd, about to turn 94 years old, and I will likely discuss road construction for the upteenth time during our 400 mile Thanksgiving road trip. The Blizzak snow tires go on the LS today ... have to drive like the geezer I am until Spring. Happy Thanksgiving!

And they are probabliy all missing their end caps! (Kidding!) Perrycraft makes roof rails for the LX470 - I assume they include end caps but I don't know if they fit they same holes as your OEM rack. You could ask them: http://www.perrycraft.com/ The following website is a vendor and shows the price for Perrycraft roof rails for the LX470: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQLexusQQLX470QQPerrycraftQQRoof_RailsQQ19982007QQP56DSXX55B.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwidPCfd7v4 I wonder if the roof rails on the LX470 were installed at the port of entry. I don't see them in the regular parts list for the LX470 including the 2000. It has always seemed odd to me that importers install such an incredible number of features, including standard equipment, at the port of entry.

It was virtually a game during our frequent trips to Colorado for winter skiing over several decades to count the number of 4WD vs 2WD vehicles in the ditch. Duh! Stupid people supply soooo much entertainment (when they don't kill anyone)! And, yes, many states are trying to make up for revenue lost from cars that use less fuel and which result in less fuel tax. Paul, I assume you know that Iowa was one of the "barrier states" that had lower commercial truck weight limits than much of the country and that those lower limits resulted in less damage to roads. Under pressure from the trucking industry, the "barrier states" were forced by the Federal government to drop their realistic weight limits and adopt higher weight limits that resulted in vastly more road damage. Owners of commercial trucks pay only a tiny fraction in road taxes compared to the damage their vehicles do to roads. If commercial trucking companies paid the true cost of the damage their vehicles do, I suspect that far more freight would be shipped by rail. A quick Google found a document that references those "barrier states": http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/reports/tswstudy/Vol2-Chapter2.pdf You might guess that this is a pet peave of mine.

It looks like you have been looking for these parts for a long time. It might be time to look for another solution - seeing if you can find an aftermarket rack that could be adapted to fit or removing the rack and plugging the holes. I'm in the same boat with my 2000 LS400 - a few parts are no longer available. I forgot the U.S. requirement for supplying replacement parts - it is either six or seven years after a car's original sale date.

I've owned a 2000 LS400 Platinum for eight years and have never seen the "lizard leather" panels available separately. Have you consulted an upholstery repair shop? Some of these guys are like miracle workers. Or just have the panel replaced with regular leather - nobody is going to see it while your !Removed! is in the seat! :whistles:

The air bags are on the Sewell website. Using part numbers makes searching the Sewell site easier ... you can often get them from http://www.toyodiy.com/ The discounted price of the passenger side air bag is $1202.42 from Sewell. Do you really want to spend this much money on a 12 year old RX?

I'd recommend getting a second opinion on the coils and oxygen sensors. I have a hard time believing that any of the coils have failed and it's also unlikely that all the oxygen sensors have failed. Did you get a record of stored error codes? And moving to Maryland isn't going to make it more difficult to get repairs - the differences between a CA and MD Lexus is small. http://lexus.sewellparts.com has all your air bag parts but I don't see a "kit". Register with Sewell with a Lexus forum member name to get a healthy discount. There are likely other good online parts sellers but I like Sewell because they are particularly up-front with pricing and shipping charges.

If you mean the lamp unit just outboard of the headlight, the passenger side part number I found is 81611-60220. Google that number and you will find it. Maybe try Sewell Lexus website for parts - sign up with a car forum member name to get a discount. The following website is good for finding part numbers: http://www.toyodiy.com A $15 2-day subsciption to https://techinfo.toyota.com should allow you to download the complete repair manual for your vehicle.

Whoops! I must have double clicked.