jzz30

did you look for one thats for a supra? that might fit

never ever try to crank when you have excess fuel in the motor that could cause hydra lock and bend your rods take the time to pull out your plugs and clear the motor because what difference would it make it if your throttle was open or closed besides the computer telling the injectors to shoot more fuel? adding to the problem :(

its somewhere try do a search.

so your heads cracked huh? well if your looking for some good hoses OEM lexus hoses are best if your looking for more of a custom look then try samco they are high quality and strong and thy look kewl but they are ultra expensive did i mention they look cool?

it could be that drive shafts go out of balance or off center because of the bearing is worn and it doesnt spin true. did you guys know that the bolts that bolt the drive shafts to each ends have a specific weight?

the dealer does not sell the factory replacement but they sell that exact one. it works fine and $40 seems right the good thing about this is if and or when the bushing goes out its really easy to change.

i think thats normal.

hmmm.... how much?

go and see if someone sells a punch set at a tool company on line. if all fails i could just send you one for a couple bucks(for the aluminum) + shipping. or just send you the used one. do you have a puller ?

my bad yes you should ask before hand but i dont think the dealer needs to lie about anything.

i also agree about useing toyota coolant only but well most of the time its sunday and the dealer is closed and well i have had absolutely no problem with what i use.

im not quite getting your question but i dont think if you try pushing on the inner sleve that the outer sleve will come out.

personaly i use prsetone in all of my cars and i have had no problems with them 14 years and running( like my LS) its green and it works its EG base and thats what the manual calls for and my all aluminum radiator has lasted 10 years and could have lasted longer but old leaves that collected a the bottom traped moisture and started to corrode the aluminum so thats the only reason why i changed it. my opinion is use whatever based coolant the manufacture suggests and change it on the schedueled basis.

i looked at pics of one of our members cars with rims and asked his offset (which i thought looked perfect) he had a 37 offset up front and 44 in back he was also running 18 by9 and 18 by10 in the rear with 255/35/18 and 285/30/18 try a supra forum for the brakes

you should consider changing the water pump while the front is all appart. i am a bit surprised to see the seal go bad. rarely do these toyota seals go bad. i had a 86 cressida took appart the whole motor and all the seals looked like they were brand new besides the fact that they were a bit harder than the new ones. well thats just me.....

well you never know because one day my car started to pulsate really bad while braking and when i pulled out the bushing it could be separated by hand meaning broken! what the dealer does is probably puts it on the lift and gets a pry bar to try and lift the rear hub to see if there is play and if there is more than what the manual specifies then they tell you it needs to be changed. if your in doubt of the dealer ask them to show you the old bushing after they change it if its not worn you can do what ever you can to not pay. and if you dont change it because you dont think anything is wrong then this could lead to more severe problems, un even and accelerated tire wear pulling to one side...etc..

isnt jim walkers one specificaly for a broad range of temperatures that he had custom made? he reverse engineered the thing and had it made i read

umm... yes

sharp eye mejojo! yes thats correct. anything that is 33mm in diameter will work

if your car is about 10 years old then why not change them i just did on mine i posted the topic under "rear trailing arm bushings replaced" so take a look mine were totaly gone the center could be pushed out by hand

i will have some more on the install when my man AWJ in SC section has a bit of time to post in the workshop for me. my LS has 140k kickin miles and well i only noticed that the brake pulsation is gone and mybe its me but it seems smoother

i didnt take a chance with mine i had a whole rebuild done since new starters were not available so it cost me a bit over $100 to change out and well the bearings were totaly shot from the heat and the soliniods were gone

i just changed my rear trailing arm bushings on the rear hubs. take a look in the gallery on page 28and 29 ( i think) for pics. common symptoms of worn trailing arm bushing: actually i only know one, that is brake pulsation so bad that you can even feel it in your shifter. i will ask some one with more computer skills than me to post this all on the workshop tutorials with a full write up. so i will keep everyone posted! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS?page=28

no i hear just the labor and parts costs $1100 but i dont think towing is included :( and you cant see the starter without taking the intake off like the aluminum intake manifold that splits in to a "V" i changed it on a LS400 and my SC has not gone out yet so im preatty worried. so anyway if your doing it your self then you will have the most fun taking off the two nuts that hold the starter on that are right up against the fire wall.

ok everyone wrote too much for me to read because im feeling lazy so if my answer to bushings has already been written sorry the main bushings to change from my experience(changed every suspension component on my LS in the front) would be the front lower ball joints strut arm bushings, and swaybar bushings.