jzz30

you want just the turbo?

konichiwa~ taka desu!

you usually need a tuner to tune your ecu unless you have experience doing tuning. depending on the company the ecu does come with software and the laptop connections. i believe the japanese companies do not because you can only purchase those at an authorized dealer that installs and tunes in house but are on the cheaper side. you will just have to call up different shops and see what they do. price will range but dont be surprised with the price because some of the ecu's need to completely be wired up meaning the existing wires are cut and wired in to the new ecu. the ecu can run anywhere from $1200-5000 and install and tune will vary from shop to shop. maybe 20 hours work for install and another 10-20 hours for tune.

as far as i remember everything on the PS pump was right hand thread.

stand alone ecu's are completely tuneable computers. they can hook up to most any kind of engine and depending on the ecu have a wide range of tunability as far as fuel maps go. tuning is done with a lap top computer. some stand alones are HKS F-con-V pro, APEXi power FC, Autronic(australian and also what we use at our shop), Motec... . but there are also plug and play ecu's that AEM offer which require absolutely no wiring of any kind, just take your stock ecu off and plug in the AEM. expect to pay about 2 grand for a good one (like Autronic) and even more for Motec. the japanese brands need certified dealers to install and tune so there might be limited shops that do those.

i removed it from a gen1 SC400 and i just cut the wires and tucked them in and cut a board and painted it black to cover the hole

the only thing you can drop it into without much hassel is another 94 sc300, and possibly a any sc300 from 92-96 granted you dont use the harness from the motor.. anything else will be wiring, possibly custom mounts,driveshaft, and a whole mess of small things that will cost lots of money.

oh yea forgot to add. lucky you dont have a 400. cuz thats a real pain to even get to the starter...thats all....

oh ok totaly different situation. if you hear the click and there is no turning action going on then its definitely your starter. oh if you want to test it (but you really dont need to because its the starter) you can take appart the starter and clean the contacts and slap it all back together and guarantee it will fire up on the first crack. you can just buy the contacts. they are cheap.~10-20 bucks. or you can get it rebuilt for about a 100 bucks.

hmm i thought i changed every o-ring... did i miss something here?

yea its probably a contact problem in the switch. but its kind of like a start kill that only you know how to start^_^

there is a tutorial in our site also but its almost the same thing as lexls.com becasue i did it. :P

these questions about how long things last is well kind of trivial. pumps will go out eventually. but this question is kind of like how long does a heart pump blood? well i guess lots of things affect both. no real answer.

:whistles: well i guess if its lower you could loose some carbon fiber :D :P

C-west wing! looking sharp man! but the drop is in immidiate need! looks like you can go offroading:)

oh if you need picture guidence of the LCA replacement i did a tutorial in the tutorial section with pics!

if there are no leaks which you would see after the car has cooled if its the water pump. try do a flush. if you havent changed coolant in a couple of years it could be that the corrosion inhibiting properties of the coolant has been used up and it is starting to corode and um wait ... you live in hawaii too... i had a problem with minor overheating in my previa van(92) like 3 years ago. i couldnt figure it out untill i looked at the radiator which simply needed to be replaced because the fins on the radiator had simply corroded off because of the salt air. be prepared to pay about 400 bucks. or give me a call. i can get it cheaper for you because i have an account if you want OEM. anyway take a look at your radiator. usually towards the bottom, leafs and dirt collect and you have a small garden ^_^ and moisture really gets to the aluminum.

you know what i use if there is a bolt i cant man handle lol. i just get a jack to do the work with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar.

thanks thats the one! valmos...^_^

well with the car warmed up see if your radiator cap is hot or not, if its not that would probably mean that your thermostat is stuck.

yea just pulling stuff out of my A$$....3 days till math final!! :o

i think daizen makes and another but i forgot the name.

the rack itself? oh yea it also helps to check inner tierods for play

newer car + target car and parts automaically=....carry the one.. integrate and take the derivative....put the civiic in the garage! ( sorry math finals are coming up) ^_^

try check your rack mounts /bushings. mine were gone and the car would really go where the road demanded