91L3xus

Probably because it's a genuine OEM "replacement" of the original battery, just as the best replacement for a timing belt for a Toyota would be a timing belt bought from the dealer/ parts distributor. I checked the Optima site, but they didn't have an application for my car. If they had a 198_-1991 Camry battery, would that work?

I have been considering buying a new battery for my car, because to me it looks like it has been recharged in the past and would feel much more confident with a fresh battery. When I got a major tune up a few weeks back, the shop tested the battery to be around 55%, then guestimated another 6-12 months on the battery depending on conditions. I've noticed things like the dash lights dimming when applying the brakes and turn signal, and also the RPM's dropping when I turn the headlights on (which is most likely an alernator problem). In the SC forum, I was reading on how getting a new battery fixed the sloppy sound of the stock stereo system. Would my stereo potentially gain some of its sound quality back if I got a new battery? I am really sick of putting money into this car, and am not willing to spend money (without currently having a job) just to get my speakers to work better. Although it would be a nice side effect along with easier starts, faster power windows, etc. and what not. And if a new battery is the best bet, which have you had good history with? I have an Interstate in my 4Runner which has worked very well for almost 2 years now.

Hell... I don't even use an air filter. Toys R Me said I shouldn't have to, unless I live in a really dusty area. I know it's not necessarily good at all for my engine, nor does anyone have to follow anyone else's advice but their own, but it makes a bad-!Removed! growl at full throttle that even impressed my friend who drives a heavily modded S4. :whistles:

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here! I'm thankful for: Family Friends A good education Lexuses/LOC Girls A good home Girls :D

Alright thanks. I'm gonna wait until I get the inspection/checkup done at the Lexus dealer in mid December, and have them tighten up any loose ends.

Oh, I just drive a ES250 with only PWR selectable, and can't turn my traction control off since I dont't have any...lol. But yeah, I do usually select gears myself and can feel the greater pull. On a side note, if I were to take out the VSC fuse in my 2002 4Runner, would I disable it completely? Or would I get a CEL or some crap like that.

OK, so there's a problem with the acceleration from a stop, or at low speeds? The decision whether to use 4 or D would make a difference when accelerating from 100 MPH, and if in 4 the revs would be higher creating quicker acceleration than if it was in D and the car had to downshift from 5th. Is that right? It's most likely not the problem trying to be solved at hand, but he did say that he wasn't going as fast (racing the Camry part) as he used to in an older LS.

DoubleA, what kind of Alpine system do you have in your 250? Is it one that takes up the whole stock stereo or just the radio part? (if you have the single CD in dash) And how much did it cost you? Thanks.

I've been looking into Falkens also for replacements of the Aquatreads ( <_< ) which I just never got around to replacing. From what I just read they seem to be a good and cheap buy, and I like the look of the tread too. Maybe your car handled better because it's so light, especailly compared to a 4x4 Blazer. More weight in motion = more intertia = harder to stop.

With the CEL, you said you went to a gas station after buying the car from the dealer? I think something as little as not tightening the gas cap all the way can set off the CEL.

What I meant to say was that if the car was in "4", you would be driving in the equivalent of overdrive off (O/D Off as it appears on the dashboard). Having said this, I see that he never put the car in D: Isn't he going to top out sooner (aka lower speed) if he's driving in only "4" and not using that last gear ratio?

He might've had the gated shifter clicked over into the 4 position instead of the D? On the LS with the gated shifter the 4 is equivalent to O/D Off of other Toyota/Lexus models. I don't know if he had it in PWR or TRAC Off, but don't see how a system that controls initial wheelspin would affect the top speed of a car, negatively or positively.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=23967 That's Toysrme's thread which helped me decide on which to get and he told me the parts I would need to get the most out of the engine for the least amount of money. Although I was offered a fully paid for $30,000 car from my parents if I can get 2 quarters of straight A's...lol.

Here's a pic of my battery hold down. Ignore the build up and the "anti theft" green knob...turned out to be more of an anti start device. Lol. Welcome to the forums, there's more and more ES250 owners here, which is cool since I read one of Army's posts which said only 15,000 were brought to the US or something like that. Stick around if you want to put in more power in your car, I'm getting turboe'd in the next few months. B)

All cars (Toyota/Lexus at least) do this to help the car warm up and come to ideal operating temperature quicker. Even if it is 100* outside and you haven't started your car since the previous day, it will still idle higher at startup than normal. Check the Temperature gauge on the dashboard to tell you when the car is up to the right temperature. Probably more noticable becuase it's a 4 cylinder which would be thrashier and more suited to revving at high RPM's than the V6 would. Back to my Ethics paper that is due in 8 1/2 hours...lol.

Alexandria Bay... I remember that sign. Made a visit up there to some odd hotel by a marina haha. Was a nice place, and we rented a boat for a day with my parents.

Cold starts usually do that since it keeps the car in gear longer to warm up the engine. My car does it a lot, but I just loosened the kickback cable some and it helped lessen the jolt.

I am not very sure of the history of the engine, other than it had been "completely" overhauled by the previous owner at his expense (Lexus dealer manager), but still do not know what was actually done during the process. I do know that my oil hasn't been changed since before I got it (along with the overhaul I guess), and myabe it needs to be changed so that's why its reading low. When I tested the oil, one time was right after it had been on a drive, and the other time it was cold. Both readings were below the L. Checking the valve covers... does that require taking parts of the engine off?

131,885 miles on the car as of today, no leaks under the car, on the driveway or any other visible place. I can't really tell the difference when I have oil in it or not, only can tell what the dipstick tells me.

I've had to add a quart of oil every month or so. It's not being burnt and I'm not getting any lights on the dash or anything, but I checked my dipstick and it was below the L after only 5 weeks. It;s not being burnt through the exhaust, and I can't smell it. Any ideas? Thanks.

Flying leap, if you're successful with this could you let me know what you use for parts and other mounting instructions? I have an ES250 also and am hoping to get a little more out of it than it makes now. Thanks. Can I PM you and we'll talk? B)

Ive heard to go with the VVT-i models. 2000+ ES's I think.

Try www.taprecycling.net They have a lot of good parts there, or check out the local salvage yard IF IT'S REALLY IMPORTANT THAT YOU GET THE PARTS SOON. :whistles:

ES300's had 3vz-fe's? Or maybe not. If you want my 2vz-fe, car and all let me know. Lol...

I just started noticing that whenever I: turn on my turn signal, my dash lights (speedometer, tach, gear selection light) will dim, as well as the backlighting of the other gauges. The radio and HVAC and clock is fine, but the other lights dim and it's very annoying. I know this is a 14 year old car, but I'm hoping there's some way to fix it. Also, when I am in Park and turn my lights on, the engine revs drop. When I turn them off, the revs go back up. What's the deal with that? And I've started to notice a metallic burb when I accelerate at slow speeds and let off the gas peda. From what I've searched, it could be transmission mounts or motor mounts.