91L3xus

What was damaged? From the pic you show, I don't see how there's $5,000 worth of damage done. My guess is a new hood, front right headlight assembly, front right fender, grille, front fascia, radiator? Unless the deer thwacked the winshield.

Damn... Would LS400 center caps fit? They're the same style "saw" wheel, 15" too I believe.

1991 ES250 chrome rims (4), or 4 alloy center caps.

Looking for replacements. Anyone know their sizes? Thanks.

Off center? Come, come.... And for those interested in how to glue things in place, you may like to check here. ← Oopsie. Blame it on the bad angle (and the 20/75 vision...) Looks much better from that angle.

The picture's a fake? You can tell that the chrome strip is hanging over the left rear light, even more so than over the right rear light. Or maybe it wasn't applied on the center? It also casts a shadow on the liscense plate indent, but not on the plate itself.

ECT= ElectronicallyControlledTransmission When you push the PWR button, the shift points change. (Transmission downshifts more frequently when accelerating, when floored, the RPM at which the gears change is extended, maybe 200-400 RPM later in the range) Supposedly to be used mostly for towing, but yes it does use more gas too.

I had this problem, which I noticed right after picking the car up from the guy selling it- I just like to poke around, ended up checking the spare tire and all of the trunk, and found 2 inches of dirty (most likely rusty) water sitting at the bottom of the spare tirre cutout. I took the spare out, and the lip of the rim sitting in water had started to rust and corrode, so it must've been in there for a while. I took out the plugs out and sprayed it out with a hose, took some towels and windex and cleaned the rest of it, making sure it was completely dry before I reinstalled anything. I've had the plugs out of thoe holes ever since, but no water had collected in the spare cut out. Now that I think about it, the water might just be draining out and not collecting, and I've never noticed it. <_< This is on a 1991 ES250, but I would think the idea is the same. Make sure you check all the rubber lining around the trunk opening. A common problem with my car was that the arms or hinges would somehow expand and cause the trunk lid to raise up above the body line, with a slant going from the bottom of the rear window to the rear of the car. The trunk hinges had been replaced right before I got the car, so maybe that was the remedy to my standing water in the spare cutout. Hope that helps. In the picture, I circled where the trunk lid is higher than the rest of the car; the same problem is starting to come back.

Has anything been filed or charged against the taxi company or the driver himself? I don't know if that had been mentioned, but if you were injured as seriously as you're stating, I would think the driver or the company must provide compensation for your loss of a car and personal injury. However, the most important thing is that you're still alive, I guess that takes priority over everything else...what good does a new car have if you're not around to drive it?

Stevie thanks for the reply. I have not been able to take a look under the car yet, but I was able to recreate the sound made on the ramp from the front left. I did this by exiting the same way as before, and got the same sound and feeling though the floorboard and steering wheel. I was not applying the brakes. Over this weekend I'll take the car to an empty lot and try to recreate the sound, but turning left instead of right. The sound (and pulsation) that I got from the brakes was from the rear, which was diagnosed as my rotors being slightly out of round, and if they were machined, they would barely be above the minimum thickness requirement. The mechanic said that I should not mess with the brakes, and get the 5-10,000 miles he estimated were left in them. (My rotors were not replaced, nor were the pads, just new brake fluid). My car gets inspected in December, so I'll update you then with the exact running operation of the car; I've seen the previous ones and they seemed to all check out fine. Suprising, since Virginia has strict inspection laws.

There aren't any expansion joints on this ramp, atl east visible ones I'm used to. It's completely smooth flat asphalt. But I do know that expansion joints cause my front wheels to skip when I'm driving into DC, especially over bridges.

OK, I know many members have been shunned in the past for not being extremely specific with the description of their noise or problem or whatever, so here goes: Today I was exiting the George Washington Parkway (the McLean exit, I'm sure no one here knows what it's like)- a ramp that starts off on flat ground, then goes uphill while bending to the right, until it does a complete 270* turn to get going on the road above. I entered this turn at around 30 MPH, what I normally hit it at, sometimes faster in my 4Runner, and about 1/3 the way up the ramp, I heard and felt a loud "Kathunk kathunk kathunk" coming from the left front of the car. It also caused my car to jolt for every "kathunk", which I think happened about 6 or 7 times. This noise and feeling really scared the crap out of me, and thought my front left wheel was about to fall out from under me. I'm not suspension or driveline savvy at all, but any help would be greatly appreciated, since I did just put $1200 in miscellaneous repairs into it, and this problem must've been encountered in the 3 days/50 miles they drove my car around. Thanks.

I get that whish noise from the rear of my car too. Hey what about 1991 leather?

Direct IP or something, I borrowed the CD from my friend and put in the ID #. I'm suprised it worked, since he was still registered for it when I installed it. I'll PM you to let you know when I'm playing.

GenerallyPlaysPoorly is my name. Lol... But I haven't played in about 3 months.

That's impressive work. Nice job.

Stay away from the Bridgestone Deulers. They were stock on my 2002 4Runner, and even when fresh (less than 5k on them) and 4WD, TCS and VSC, still managed to get in 2 accidents in the snow. They have a horribly shallow tread depth, and at 30k looked almost like racing semi-slicks. And I'm sure you know how the District handles clearing snow off the streets (it doesn't). I'd suggest Michilens, which are very grippy in the dry and wet, very good in the snow, and very good in the sand. Cross Terrain SUV.

Well, when coming to a stop, I tend to apply my brakes a little harder than at first. When I'm almost completely stopped, I get a combination of a squishy-like sound and what I can best describe as a metallic grunt. And after going to the mechanic, my "squeeksqueeksqueek" seems to have become more presistent as I gently apply my brakes. Any remedies for either of these problems? I can feel the rears grabbing in one specific spot more than the rest, my rear rotors are obviously out of round, and that's where I'm getting the metallic grunts from too. I get the squeeking from the front brakes. Oh, and maybe some of you have been waiting to see this... well here it is. The bill. Bumbumbum... :chairshot: :whistles:

Thanks all for the responses. Just picked up the car from the mechanic today, total: $1,288.60 :cries: Almost $700 was for the labor. Yes, I know. Ripped completely off. But this has obviously been a learning experience for me, now knowing that I can do some of this stuff myself, without being charged an obscene amount for labor. The car looks fine and runs well for me, except for the fact that my brakes still squeek like a SOB, which they charged me $72 just to take off the wheels, drive it around for 10 miles and check. Nothing other than that. All fluids were replaced, and the coolant is blue; before, I had just added in Prestone, since I had no coolant. Brake fluid is nice and clean, he saved some of the old fluid for me, and it looked like straight up mud. Power steering fluid is a nice clear red now. NGK spark plug wires were $191.00 (uugh), but are a nice blue that matches my air filter. Heh. They had to buy a $35 distributor cap from Lexus, since 2vz-fe's are apparently very picky when it comes to caps? Also, my winshield washer fluid went from a full tank of orange Rain-X solution to a greyish solution. Any way to drain the washer fluid tank? Army, thanks for the #. Once I get thorugh the next busy weeks at school and home, I'll try to give you a call and talk about the ES. As for the brakes, definately need to hold off on those. Although I would freaking love to get rid of the "squeek squeek squeek..." when applying the brakes, and the "kthump kthump kthump..." that I get right before the car comes to a stop. Any other input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback Toys. Believe me, I would LOVE to get rid of this car. But my dad isn't having it. Maybe this will knock some sense into him, dropping a buck twenty on a car worth little over $2,000. You have no idea how nice it would be to get back behind the wheel of my 850R, or even a mid 90's 850 T-5. I <3 turbos. :( I'll let my dad know how much I'm getting jipped on these parts, thanks for the heads up.

Update: Distributor cap I provided broke... I had a $15 part, they say their part is $35. The only part that's worked so far is the PCV valve, which I'm too much of a dumbass to install it myself. New set of spark plug wires will cost me $191.00. Took 45 minutes to remove only one of the rear bank spark plugs, so labor is what is !Removed! me over so far. About $240 worth of fluids, every fluid, with the exception of the oil has to be changed. Plugs were not $7 apiece, they were $13. er. Rear rotors beginning to warp, so out the door with those (can't afford new brakes all around anymore <_< ). $100 for rotors. New fuel filter for $50(?). Upper plenium caked with carbon build up. Cat converter rusted on the outside, not bad but will need changing soon (quoted me $300-400 for just a new one, no labor) I found one on eBay for $100+-. Am I getting majorly screwed here? The total tab has come up to $1200, at that rate, my car should run brand new. One thing that really got me was the mechanic noting "It's a worthy car to put this much money into, you know what I'm sayin'?" Hah. Probably would've gotten a better price at the dealer.

Wow those are so nice, I wish I had that much time and money on my hands, even though it is your job right? That's one hell of a job if you ask me. B)

Well I finally had enough time today to bring in the '91 to an independent shop, to get some tune up work done. I planned to: Install new spark plugs New distributor cap/rotor New PCV valve New Brembo cross drilled front rotors New Brembo solid rear rotors Achebono front and rear pads Most of that had been done by the time I got a call from the shop. However...I had been informed that 1. Brake, transmission, coolant and power steering fluids were all very very very dirty- the mechanic questioned wether this car had ever gotten any fluids changed. <_< 2. Rejected the Denso spark plugs I brough to have installed, only to replace them with $7 NGK double platium plugs, because next time I get them changed, it'll cost me $200 (labor for the engine work <_< ) ****ing rear bank plugs... 3. No fuel filter installed (WTF.) There goes my birthday money, hopefully since it was my dad's decision to get this car, he'll pay for it. Looking at $1000+ total for parts and labor...when the car is worth a little over $2,000...

Thanks for the help, links and feedback all. Friday is my birthday, so maybe I'll get some new rims along with a set of those Falken tires, LF, which I did some research on and went to the garage up a few miles from me, who said they were very reliable and had quite a bit of bite to them.

True that, the height of the side mirrors isn't the same, and plus they're connected to the actual door itself with that ugly black plastic spot where the mirror should be? Pfft, I don't think sooooooooo.