sonyman

The sensor in the tank may be faulty. Check the resistance against the factory repair manual.

I doubt you're going to find a good 95+ for 4k, unless it has more miles on it than Paris Hilton. Also, unless you have a good deal of spare cash lying around, avoid an air suspension model. The ride may be very nice, but with high mileage and old age they tend to fail and are very expensive to repair. Common problems are leaky PS pumps, a broken egr pipe, leaky oil pans (usually just a weep at the seal), bad front lower ball joints, blacked-out climate control displays, worn carrier and caster arm bushings, and other niggly little problems such as worn trunk lift supports. Mechanically they are practically bulletproof as long as they have been well-maintained. With a budget like yours I would look for a '93 or a '94. 1993 models are 99% identical to 1994 models but may be slightly cheaper since they are 1 year older. Since you are in upstate NY definately look for a model with TRC (identifyable by a switch near the shifter and a throttle body linkage cover labeled "TRC") and invest in a good set of snow tires for the winter. Snow tires alone should carry you through the winter, but traction control is certainly a good thing to have. Models with TRC also have heated seats, although they may or may not work due to their age.

The only reason for the MIL to illuminate after disconnecting the battery would be if the fault reoccurs. If the new sensors fix the issue, disconnecting the battery should clear the code permanently.

It'd be easiest to just redo it. Otherwise, you can purchase some sort of extractor, but it'd probably exceed the cost of new fluids.

Wait on the timing belt at least until you return from the trip. Even with the vehicle's age, your mileage doesn't warrant a new belt just yet.

I don't know who told you to replace the distributor assembly but that's nonsense. No one does that as preventative maintenance. A "tune-up" includes plugs (NGK or Denso), wires (OEM), distributor caps and rotors (OEM preferrably for both). Use iridium or platinum plugs and leave them in along with the wires for 60k or 90k, as specified by the maintenance schedule. It's a good idea to change the wires when changing the plugs as the resistance goes up over time in the wires, and they may be damaged during removal to access the plugs. The distributor caps and rotors do get pitted and corroded over time so it's a good idea to change them at least every 90k, which I believe is the specified interval anyway. A lot of these components will continue operating beyond these intervals so they may have been neglected by the previous owner, so it would probably be a good idea to perform a tune-up per the above text. I changed everything in my own LS400 at around 78k miles simply due to their age, and did notice an improvement in performance even though nothing was worn too far out of spec.

Contact your local Lexus dealer. Chances are they use an independent contractor for gold plating that they can refer you to.

In order to update the navigation software it is necessary to purchase a new hard drive. I'm not sure what the newer systems use.

The GPS in the 1998-2000 LS400 uses a hard drive in the trunk.

If I were in your position, I'd just get a salvage unit. It will be cheaper and possibly fix your problem.

On UCF20 Series I LS400's, the Nakamichi and Pioneer systems use the same wiring harness. You'd need a new headunit, amplifier and subwoofer. You know that speaker cover behind your third brake light? A subwoofer lurks beneath. Dcfish can sell you newly refurbished units to do this conversion. I'd be doing it myself if I didn't need new tires (priorities, priorities :whistles: ).

Could you post pictures and tell me what parts you used to create your setup? I'm interested for my own LS400.

Have a technician inspect the transmission and engine mounts, the carrier bushings (leading arm bushings), and flexible couplings. Any of the above can create vibrations and other problems when out of spec.

Change all the fluids: Differential, transmission, brakes, coolant, engine oil, power steering fluid. Check the air filter and pcv valve. Basically just make sure all the maintenance is up to date, and if anything isn't, repair/replace it.

I had a similar situation with my previous car, a 1992 SC400. The inside rear-view mirror only worked when it was very hot inside the car, and when it cooled down, the LCD became dark again.

I have driven many different LS430's, both UCF30's and UCF31's, and none have moved the driver's seat back when the key is removed.

No LS400 weighs anywhere near 5000lbs ;) ^^^

I thought it might be a coil, but my mechanic says that typically, if a coil goes bad, it doesn't work. Period. Meaning, I'd be running on 4 cylinders. What's your take?

After driving the car some today, I have found that the mis is actually still present at higher speeds, but barely detectable. For all I know, it's the same way at lower speeds but too suttle to notice.

For a few months now, my LS400 has had a misfire between 45-60 MPH. Applying throttle pressure only makes it worse. It makes its presence known as subtle vibration. I changed the spark plugs, wires, caps and rotors and gained some power, but it didn't fix the problem. The last time I took my car in to the shop my mechanic told me it was a misfire, but he doesn't recall making this diagnosis and now doesn't seem to know the cause of the problem. Another reason why he thought it was a misfire is because one time I started the car and the engine was violently shaking for 20-30 seconds before it smoothed out. If it's not a misfire, then what is it, and what can I do to fix it?

It really depends where you take it, and what's needed. Your best bet is going to be to call a few places and ask. Depending on what's wrong with the cooling system, it may be a relatively cheap fix, or it could end up being very costly. For a diagnosis of the cooling system, an oil change, and a transmission service, I would expect to pay less than $100 at a private mechanic. Another cheap item to look at that I forgot to mention is the PCV valve. It's only a few dollars and is worth changing. This is an easy DIY. As for the engine code, pull it yourself, and let me know what it comes up as.

For coolant, you will need to have the system leak tested ASAP. Coolant is very bad for the environment so if it's simply leaking out that's a major no-no. If it's not leaking, then it's being ingested by the engine, most likely due to a faulty head gasket. Take it to a mechanic for a diagnosis if you can't see the leak. 50/50 is the rule if you buy Toyota long-life coolant. If you get super long-life, it's premixed, so pour just coolant into the engine. For the oil change, I would take it to a mechanic who is willing to let you watch him work. Since you've never done it before, I think it would be best to watch someone do it before you attempt it on your own. If you're looking for a dino oil, get Havoline 5W30. It has an excellent add-pack and is under $2 per quart. If you decide to go synthetic, get Mobil 1 EP 5W30, as it is also an excellent oil. Use an OEM Toyota filter. I would also change the transmission fluid with whatever it takes- either T-IV or Dexron III. Additionally, inspect the air filter and drive belt, and if they look worn, change them. More likely than not the oil change is not the cause of your CEL. Your care is OBDI so you can pull the code in your driveway. It's a simple process that involves jumping 2 pins in the diagnostic conector, but you'll have to search the forums for an exact answer.

What parts are available for a 1995 Lexus LS400, and at what prices? I'm looking for pretty much everything.

Both are fine. For synthetic I'd recommend Mobil 1. It puts out excellent wear numbers for Toyotas.

I wish everyone could have it as "easy" as you did nc211. I was unable to get Lexus to do anything for me, and am still needing to have my ECU changed. If it'd be at all possible, I'd like to see what it did for your LS so I could see what it could do to mine. Scott