sonyman

At the dealership they can hook the ECM up to a Lexus diagnostic computer through the OBD-II port and clear out any learned patterns. Just pulling fuses doesn't do it on the newer cars. Once they do that, the car will have an opportunity to properly learn from how you personally drive it. Press for them to do this for free, especially since I've watched a technician do it before and it only takes 5 minutes.

I myself was wondering about whether the 95-97 was a interference or non interference engine as it was my understanding prior to now that is was an interference engine. Anyone can be mistaken here, but that certainly does not mean that they're deliberately spreading misinformation. I agree with VMF that condemning and accusing someone of deliberately misleading others is totally uncalled for. If someone is wrong or another is correct, that can be easily established with a distillation of the facts. I've been on enough boards where there's a lot of rancor. What's nice about these boards is that everyone is cordial. I'd like to see it stay that way. I accused no one of being deliberate in their ways. I did, however, tell him to stop because he needs to substantiate his facts. If he had gone fact-finding, he would have come to a different conclusion. Interference vs non-interference is a very serious topic as it can easily cost a misinformed individual an engine. I'm sorry if I appear harsh or blunt, but that's just the way it goes.

That's not what chips usually do; that's what ebay scam fake chips do. A real chip or "piggyback" unit modifies the air/fuel ratio at various engine speeds overriding the factory ECM's air/fuel table. It doesn't just fake airflow measurements or air temperatures. The Unichip is a popular choice for the early 1UZ-FE engines, and it's probably adaptable for the 3UZ-FE as well.

Stop spreading BS! The 2UZ-FE is the 4.7 liter V8 found in the previous generation Tundra, the GX470, LX470, V8 4Runner, etc, etc... There are so many changes from the 1990-1994 to the 1995-1997 engine that it would take a whole thread just to go over them. One of the biggest changes was an increase in compression up to 10.4:1. Many, including myself, believe that this change made the 1995-1997 engine an interference design, regardless of what online sources say because pistons have hit valves in at least one case in a 1995-1997 engine when the belt has broken. Now I don't care if you say otherwise but please don't keep spreading misinformation because it's going to cost someone an engine. Again, please stop spreading misinformation. The 1998-2000 1UZ-FE is also an interference motor. The pistons may hit the valves, resulting in a catastrophic event leading to an engine rebuild or replacement! In short: 1990-1994 Non-interference 1995-2000 Interference!

I think the PRND12L indicators were lit during those times, but I will keep a close eye on them if the car decides to strand me again. <_< Even if they are lit, that doesn't rule out a faulty neutral safety switch. I had a bad one on my old car and the lights still lit up in the cluster.

There are lines that run to a small cooler mounted by the radiator. A fitting could be leaking. I personally think it's best to change your fluid at least every 15k, so I would have that done when they fix whatever is leaking. Definitely get that taken care of ASAP and top off the fluid in the mean time.

Why bother at all. I wouldn't bother replacing that piece of junk plus which I have often wondered what it might take to have it automatically off with each startup rather than on. I learned by be fairly religious in turning it off each and every time I start my 92 LS. Because you can get the computer for pocket change at a salvage yard....

Is your check engine light lit?

It takes 1-2 hours to do it yourself, or less if you've removed the glovebox before.

Start by checking ALL your fuses. And I mean ALL of them.

They're bull*BLEEP*.

Check your fuses first.

Your mechanic is a moron.

It pulls straight out, Just when you think it's going to break it will release. Bad advice. There are little hooks on the underside of it and if you move the cover a little or push on it to release them you should be able to lift it up with little resistance and access the bulb.

Aftermarket transmissions? www.lextreme.com Check the forums for everything you need to know.

Without the filter the "squirrel cage" blower vanes accumulate dust and dirt like you wouldn't believe. The factory filter may also have some anti-microbial chemical embedded tp prevent mold and mildew formation as do the inexpensive home furnace filters you can use to make new filters for your LS. thanks wwest. will do. i was just amazed at the increased force of the air after removing the dirty one. i hope it will still blow out hard after i install the new oem one. thanks for the input guys. It will. The filter media is not that restrictive when new.

Will do. Thanx OE spec plugs for that year are Denso platinum plugs. Replace them with either NGK or Denso plugs, platinum or iridium. NGK plugs are more readily available and cheaper, so that's what I would use. Platinum OE spec NGK: BKR6EP-11 Denso: PK20R11 Iridium (for longer life) NGK: IFR6T-11 <- I recommend this plug, and use it in my own LS400. It has the longest life of all plugs listed here. NGK: BKR6EIX-11 Denso: IK20

There are different versions of the A340E transmission designed for different cars. The UCF20 pre m/c has the A340E, but probably a slightly different A340E than that found on a Cressida or a Supra.

1990-1994 models use the A341E transmission. 1995-1997 models use the A340E transmission. If I'm not mistaken, an A341E should physically fit, but due to it's taller 1st gear, it will make the car even slower from a dig.

If the original part is a California ECM it will end in 5023x where x is 0 or 1. Replace it with 89661-50234. It's a known issue and that's the solution.

Thanks for the kind words. :) One more point of failure on the LS400 that I missed: The engine and transmission mounts have a tendency to fail. To check the motor mounts, put the car in Drive, and while on the brake, quickly tap the gas. Have someone looking under the hood when you do so. If the engine lifts up, or tries to, the motor mounts are shot. With the transmission mount, it will often create vibrations while driving when it needs replacement.

The battery is simply for the remote functions, and all data is stored in non-volitile memory. Meaning, changing the battery won't erase any settings or unpair the remote from the car.

Many of these problems may sound minor, but being a Lexus, all the parts are very expensive and so is the labor, so try to find on that is relatively sound. It's best to do the timing belt and waterpump together, but more likely than not, you won't encounter any issues with the water pump. 1990-1994 LS400's have a non-interference engine, so if anything breaks, or fails, there will be no engine damage. 1995+ is interference, so make absolutely sure the timing belt has been changed if the mileage is above 90k. A timing belt service costs anywhere from $600-$800, and changing the waterpump costs around an extra $200-$300. It's recommended to change the cam and crank seals at the same time since it's only an extra 0.5 hour labor. Make sure that the engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, brake fluid, coolant, and powersteering fluid have all been changed regularly. Make sure the transmission fluid is a cherry-red color, and the coolant is also red. If it is green, change it out although it's not a major issue. Toyota Long Life coolant is red in color. As for older and mint versus newer needing work, older definately wins. It is expensive to fix just about anything on these cars.

1) A leaky PS pump can be checked for by feeling around the pump for fluid leaking out. The most obvious sign is typically fluid loss, i.e., having to refil the fluid often but you won't have the luxury of time. 2) If the EGR pipe is broken the engine will often sound louder than it should. It may sound like the valves are out of adjustment or the injectors are noisy. This is far from definitive. Running something like Seafoam through the engine is slightly more foolproof, as you should see a small amount of white smoke from behind the engine if the pipe is cracked. Also, smelling exhaust gasses under the hood or in the car may also be a sign of an exhaust leak. 3) Typically when the oil pan leaks it's a small leak that is more cosmetic than a real problem. If the pan is only slightly leaky then the only way to see would be to look at the edges of the pan where in contacts the upper oil pan. If it is leaking, you should see oil around the edges. 4) Bad ball joints may show themselves as a clunk, but look for any strange suspension noises. Go over bumps, dips, and take turns quickly to look for excessive body roll, which could indicate worn anti-roll bar bushings. Also listen for creaking noises when going over speedbumps, which can be a sign of worn upper control arm bushings. 5) A blacked-out climate control LCD is obvious. Nothing more to say here. 6) Worn carrier bushings can create a clunk noise when quickly tapping the throttle from a standstill, or when shifting from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse. Worn caster arm bushings will create a clunk noise from the front end if you quickly hit the brakes (be firm) when moving at 5-15 mph. 7) If your lift supports are worn then the trunk and/or hood will be difficult to lift and may be reluctant to stay open. When the supports are new, after unlatching the trunk, a small pull on the lid should be enough to get it to go up to the rain position, or about 2/3 of the way up. The hood may not be quite as free-moving, but it should go up with little effort and stay up. Another item I forgot to mention that is common to '93-'94 models is bad cluster lighting and needles that refuse to move when cold. Check to make sure the needles light up, the backlighting works, and the needles move from the moment you start driving. (The tachometer from the moment the engine starts turning.) To check whether or not the heated seats work is also faitly straight-forward. Turn on the heat for one seat, and compare the temperature of it with the unheated seat after letting it warm up for about 5 minutes. It should be somewhat warmer. Repeat after allowing the previously heated seat to cool to room temperature.

If it has heated seats, then yes it will have TRC. Most of these problems are obvious from either a simple test drive or a poke around in the engine bay and beneath. I can go more in-depth later, after work, if you'd like.