teamer

I think it happens when you change the Tranny Fluid. I had the same problem and the only thing I can think of is that the new fluid has a much thicker viscosity and protection than the old one that the fluid pressures are higher and thus you will feel the downshifting more. The same thing happened when I flushed my new Mazda MPV van after 39,000 miles at the dealer. The car would slow down after I let off the gas - almost like the engine would drag - but I'm pretty sure its the new transmission fluid. Anyone else have this experience after flushing out the old with the new tranny fluid? Thanks, TEAMER

Steve, Can you please provide info for this VIN? VIN: 1Y1SK5284WZ412022 Thanks! Teamer

Blake, Sorry to hear about your accident. I'm sure you were thankful to be in a "crash cushion" (LS400). That LS saved your life! I'm sure glad to be driving around in mine knowing how well it protects in a crash. I know you mentioned that the engine is pretty much gone. Would you be able to remove the rear (after CAT) O2 sensors? I would be very interested in them. Please PM me or email me here: dtsang@halff com Let me know how much - I'll pay for them + shipping. Thanks! Teamer

I will need to change mine soon. I heard that using non-OEM O2 sensors (particularly "universal" ones) may ruin engine electronics if the amperage is not matched. I priced the OEM ones and they cost and un-believable $257 each! Yikes!!! I am very curious to know if you get any codes later down the line. Hopefully not. Please let us know how your car is doing as you build on the miles... Thanks!! TEAMER

Thomas, How much for your old O2 sensors? I am looking for all 4 (2 Main & 2 Minor). Wires & clips all intact - no wire cutting. Thanks! TEAMER Still have the car? Mywhite 93 was rear-ended Saturday and I may be attempting a rebuild with the insurance money. Would need tail light assemblies, rear bumper cover, rear bumper, trunk lid. PM sent

Hi, Since you are having the misfire problems after the plug, wires, cap (ignition) system replacement, I am more likely to believe that the wires were improperly installed. Generally, if plug wires are too close together, they will cause electro-magnetic interference with each other and will throw off your timing (hence, resulting in misfires, etc..) I wanna guess that the wire installation is the culprit. Which is why another member attached the pdf wiring diagram - it has to be exact as he says. Nonetheless, I would recommend taking your LS to another dealership that is more competent - although you would be paying more money(since it does require a bit of labor to get to the plugs). I am shocked that they messed it up - a Lexus dealership should not be making that mistake! I'm sure you paid alot of money having that work done and they should fix it at no additional cost! But, you would be taking another chance of an incompetent service. Hope you find out the solution soon, TEAMER

Hello, I have a 90 LS400 with 108k miles (engine and transmission are in great condition). I recently "flushed" out the tranny fluid (Toyota T-IV) on my 90LS using the "cooler line to radiator" method. After flushing, I tried driving it, but, as you know you have to slowly shift gears back & forth to allow the new fluid to work it's way internally. After a few tries, I was able to drive away and drove for about 10 miles. I checked the fluid levels a few days after and had to re-fill a little bit (til all fluids fully circulated through the transmission). Now, I noticed that when I start & drive the car (engine cold) sometimes the transmission would "slip" occasionally. When I say slip, I mean it would shift gears (rpms go up & down) when I am at a stop or rolling to a stop. After the car reaches normal operating temperatures, the problem goes away. But, I am concerned because it never did that before the tranny fluid change. The old tranny fluid was actually ok (clear red) before I changed it, but, I wanted to flush it out since I recently bought it and I have no service history regarding the fluid. Perhaps I may not have allowed the fluid to circulate enough before driving it 10 miles (causing damage to the internals)? Has anyone tried this or encountered similar problems? Maybe someone with transmission experience can chime in. Thanks! TEAMER

Jim, I used to live in Massachusetts - Newton/Boston - too bad, we could've swapped had I been there! The brand I have are Yokohamas, but, again, it doesn't matter what brand of tire - it was the alignment that caused the problem. If your car is not properly aligned, your tires (no matter how great they are) will wear un-evenly and eventually will give you that vibration at certain speeds. So even if your tires are re-balanced perfectly, if they are already worn un-evenly it won't change anything. Hope you find the cause of the problem soon - I know how annoying it is to hear that noise when driving-especially in a car that was designed to be quiet. Cheers! Teamer

Jim, I have the same problem you have and for me it was the tires. The tires, although you re-balanced them, maybe improperly worn - meaning you may have a slight alignment problem. If this is the case, you could not detect it with the naked eye just by looking at the tires. It might be slightly off than ideal and this could cause vibration problems at certain speeds (due to harmonic vibrations). I know you might not have spare tires available, but, as a test, I would replace all 4 wheels temporarily and drive it and see if there's a difference. This could save you the costly expense of replacing motor mounts, transmission mounts, driveline axles, etc. only to find out that it was just the tires... If you happen to know of another friend with an LS400 year 90-92, and he/she would allow you to swap tires, then this might be a cost effective test to troubleshoot. It would be a shame if spent money on parts that did not need to be replaced. Just my 2 cents... Hope you can find out the root of the problem...Good luck.... Teamer

larryp, Thanks for the response. I know that plug wires get worn from high heat and usage and results in higher resistance which does not give the full current to the plugs. Similarly, the distributor - cap and rotor wears out over time which also affects the current output. I've been told that the distributor (entire assembly-cap & rotor) should be replaced when you replace plug wires (every 100,000 to 150,000 miles). Since these are relatively low cost (especially on US domestic models), I think it is a good idea. However, I was shocked to find out that Lexus charges over $800 for the distributor when they normally sell for $50-$60. I know the old adage, " if it ain't broke, don't fix it" may apply for some things. However, I think in this case, it does affect your performance and if it keeps your engine running at peak conditions, then I think it's worth it.

Has anyone ever changed their Distributor, Cap & Rotor on their LS400? Mine has over 108k miles and since it has over 100k, I think it would be best to replace the Distributor Cap + Rotor along with the plug wires. I've seen posts about changing the wires+plugs, but, strangely I have not seen anyone talk about changing out their Distributor, Cap & Rotor. I was planning to buy OEM, but when I called the dealer, they told me it would cost over $800 just for the distributor alone. Aftermarket - prices are much more reasonable - but, I do not know how well these would work if they were aftermarket. Some brands I've seen are Bosch, Beck Arnley, etc.. Any experience with these? Thanks! TEAMER

Might also be your power steering pump (especially if it is leaking). My dad's 91 LS400 pump started going and it made the same sound at start up. After the pump was replaced, the sound went away.

Frustrating. I bought my 90 LS400 recently and noticed it too on mine. There is a way to adjust it. You have to take off the rubber plate on the car (not the filler door) surrounding the filler pipe. Once you get the rubber piece off, you should see two major bolts that hold the door hinge. Loosen the 2 bolts and you should be able to adjust the door. Not sure how it got off center, but, I know my car was repainted (perhaps due to an accident from previous owners) and the paint shop did not put it back on right. My guess.... Hope this helps...

LScott400, THANKS So Much! Really Appreciate it!! -TEAMER

Hello, I am about to change my oil pan gasket since it is already leaking. Talked to dealer, they say there is no gasket- you must use RTV sealant. Is this true? If so, does anyone know the torque specifications/ratings for each bolt? Thanks! TEAMER