Exhaustgases

The fix is going to be under 2K if you do what I say and if you can't change the parts find someone that can. Repaint matching is a joke, you then have 2 different types of paint on the car and they weather very differently. And if they use water paint and the base is not properly dried you get nice little pimples in a good freeze. Same goes for a paint air system with wet air. I have not seen a blend yet that I can not tell its been a repaint panel blend. And such crap does not belong on any year of luxury car or collector car. Only way to paint is have a well known auto painter strip and repaint like the factory did. And that can run into the 20K region cost wise. The easy thing to do is find the correct color car you can get the whole car for less than having some body shop mess around. And like I say you then have a whole bunch of spare parts. Body parts, interior parts, engine and transmission parts and the list goes on. If you plan on keeping the car it is the most cost effective way to go. And best to have the same options and year as the car you have, then you have a spare ecu, and all the other modules. Glass and what ever. Or you use what parts you need and then you got time to find replacements for the donor car then you have 2 of them, if you buy the donor cheap enough then sell it or the parts. If you did insurance on this they will just total it then you have a salvage title, you will not sell the car with a salvage title.

What you need to do is find the correct paint code color parts at a wrecking yard. Or just find the correct color car on craigslist for the 700 and you will have lots of parts. Maybe even sell some. Do not install the wrong color and have it painted it never looks good.

That year can have the ecu capacitor issues, the 48 is sub throttle position sensor for trac, he must have scan tooled it. And yeah if O2 sensors have not been replaced do that. And before taking to the Lexus dealer. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

What does "out oil in it" mean? Do you mean there is no oil in it? If the crankshaft will not turn then likely is seized up from no oil. Or you broke a timing belt and that did it. What year is it? Is it an LS400 or a ?

Either the switch is stuck or that clock spring wire is shorting out ? It is all likely in the steering column. Disconnect the battery before working on it, and let it sit for awhile too, don't want to set off the airbag. You can start by unplugging the connector and checking continuity. You need a schematic.

Wow $125 is almost doing if for free, and that really proves they are idiots. Yeah I'm trying to be funny. I guess you are in some other country because no one here would do that job for that price. Still the starter that's going in should have been looked at real good to make sure its going to last. Usually if the solenoid contacts are getting bad you can still rapidly flick the key to start and back and have it catch or more appropriately make contact and start. Also you will hear the solenoid clicking just no starter motor running.

The mechanic does not know the difference between an immobilized starter solenoid and the other active solenoids under the hood, there are lots of them. Just look in the solenoid and fuse box, there is one for efi, fuel pump etc. the immobilizer is just for the starter and nothing else. So yes there will be sound under the hood if its working. And number 2 you just proved what an idiot (sorry) you have doing the work on that car, I hope he is working for free, because a used starter install is just plane stupid. Where the bearings changed or checked in it? Where the brushes changed or checked? How about the solenoid contactor ? 55 bucks ? for 100 you would have a rebuilt one. That whole project is a total waste of time and money. You could have got a better deal at a lexus dealer shop.

On a gen 1 the security system will make the starter not work. And is fixed by just locking the doors with the key and then unlocking. It happened to a friend one time and she thought the starter went out. No alarms or nothing, just no starter. A starter will give you a month or more warning.

Personally I'd much rather engine parts damaged. Body and paint is the most difficult to get right.

This is the forum for LS400 not GS300, so we may not know exactly whats happening. If you stripped the threads that are the connections for the fuse, then very likely the connection is not very good so the current is not flowing through the fuse. Are the striped threads into metal or plastic? If plastic you may be able to use an epoxy to fill the stripped threaded hole and let it cure then redrill the hole and of course the hole needs to be smaller than the threads sticking out on the side of the screw. Most screws that fit into plastic are a self threading type of screw. Oh and most importantly always disconnect the battery before doing any electrical stuff other than changing lights and small fuses. If its the bolt in type fuses you should disconnect the battery so you don't short the connection with a wrench or tool. If there are sparks you could be messing something else up that is electronic.

Lots of work for a possible security system problem. I don't know the newer than Gen 1 stuff that well. And wow they sure didn't improve getting the starter out in the newer cars same old stuff in the way at the fire wall.

Keep us all posted on how it goes with this project.

jamesm182, thank you I wasn't even thinking transmission loading it. If the torque converter clutch was stuck on for some reason as soon as you put it in gear it would load it down and stop it. Good thought you had. It would kind of jerk after the shift into gear before stopping the engine. I wish people would report back, and not just post a problem and never show up again.

At the right wrecking yard maybe 300 max. At a body shop about 5000.

Looks like just replace the damaged parts type of deal. I would find the correct paint code, I would not do a repaint. Most all repaint is garbage. I work with a guy that had some slight damage on a door fixed on a Mercedes, they blended the front fender and other areas, to me its a mess, and he's not happy with all the nibs, I can't wait till it sees a nice hard freeze maybe it will blister then, good old no stick to the primer and non dried water borne crap paint. He should have found a good paintless dent repair person like I said to do.

I don't think its a deal where another engine is needed. Unless you have 400,000 miles on it. A broke timing belt is the likely culprit. The new one was likely a bad installation job or ? Your key to this whole deal is what you said. That is was running great then all the sudden it won't. You really need someone else to check it out. California is full of car nuts you shouldn't have a problem finding some one to look at it. It takes less than a half hour to check the timing belt.

Did you try turning the hub when the caliper was off? It could be wheel bearings on the way out too.

If the structure is not damaged, (so we need under the hood pictures) what I would do if it was mine is look for same paint code parts at wrecking yards or where ever, and replace the ruined parts. Wrecking yards usually have a system where they can check nation wide for parts.

I've read things about the oil control valve for the VVT that can cause problems like I think the miss fires. I don't know if that year is susceptible to the ecu capacitor problems. White exhaust smoke can be unburnt gas or coolant. If it wasn't for the coolant disappearing then I'd suspect the ecu. Do what Billy says, if you have a leaking head gasket the mechanics need to pressurize the cooling system, and with the spark plugs out look for a leak. Also anything around the intake manifold that carries coolant to warm up the device like the idle air control on the old cars can be a source of coolant ingestion if damaged in some way, and on older cars that could be corrosion eating a hole where it should not be.

And if you get the information please post it here for everyone else. If you don't have a manual your choices are, go to the dealer and ask to look at one, or go to the Toyota TIS site and down load the information, the cost is low for a few days of access.

One thing that can cause it is a wire or connection that is only touching and making contact when the engine is not moving, putting in gear causes engine to move, and then connection is lost. Also when the transmission is shifted to a gear position the selector switch tells the Ecu that its been shifted to a gear. There could be something that shorts out when being shifted, or something in the ecu that instead of idling up the engine it cuts if off. I think trying another known good ecu would be my first thing to try. Then checking out the shift selector switch, then looking for and important wire in the harness or even a loose connector. That is easy to do you can just try moving wires a bit when the engine is running and see if it shuts off or does something funny when doing that. Another test would be to jack up the rear wheels so there is very little torque moving the engine and see if that stops the problem.

I haven't had to play with door locks and latches yet, I have fixed the trunk lock though. I think the worse thing to ever have to deal with on these cars would be the hood latch or cable breaking. A failed trunk latch would be the 2nd worse thing then the doors. Keep us posted on what the fix is.

Since the oil pan itself is so dark we can not see the color or condition of the fluid. The pan would need to be lighter or even a glass jar. Having a screw in there is not good, I think it goes in the corner on the side opposite the solenoids and into the separator plate, look for the empty hole. It would go straight up. Yeah suppose to be magnets. And I personally would not use that fluid. Toyota T-IV only. Yeah any fluid will work, but what are the friction modifiers in it? There is no one size fits all Automatic Transmission fluid, some people think so. Now if you rebuilt the transmission with aftermarket friction materials and cleaned torque converter, and from day one used that stuff then yeah maybe okay. But still Toyota did the valve body calibrations for a certain transmission fluid additive package and friction modifiers. Before I would use a non approved fluid I'd get in writing from the fluid manufacture to warrant the transmission since they think its okay. They will never ever take the blame for transmission damage. And that is why you would never take a new car to Jiffy lube to void the warranty with improper trans fluid. I know you said its a 90.

If it had the air suspension along with the other options like power head rest and driver memory, and also under 100K miles and there were no door issues that someone would be scratching paint and what ever else to fix, and body and paint were perfect all glass original. I'd give 6K for it. Oh and since you already have a car that plows off speed bumps (ride height), please keep this one original, as its money in your pocket, other wise a total lost of the breed and of investment.

9.3 liters for every Km that sounds pretty bad to me. It was written as 9.3 liters / km , that is 9.3 per km.......... ????? And even then for us mpg people all that is jibberish you know. mpg = miles per gallon or m/g