Exhaustgases

Year of car? What does the Title say? By 12/94 they are into the next model year. Your picture is too small to tell but it looks like a 95. Lights contact Tanin auto electronics.

I have not needed to deal with them yet, and if nothing is available, I'll either fix what I have or build some. I don't think any aftermarket parts are available. There are listed here for a cool 400 plus each side. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=797179&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&modelYear=1993&ukey_category=21754&ukey_trimLevel=19107

Wow, sorry to hear that, and sorry for your loss. There is awa Edit , I don't know what happened but the day I wrote all this the site just stopped working and I never finished it.. I think I was going to say, There is always hope, and it may not be the last time you ever do it. There is a chance of everlasting life. It is in the good book.

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=765402&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&modelYear=1993&ukey_category=21754&ukey_trimLevel=19107 Thank you I learned something new. I should probably study my books a bit more. I didn't realize that is was more than just a power steering line.

Last time I got trans fluid at local Toyota dealer it was 5.61 a quart if memory serves. Are you taking the pan off? I'm not sure if a solenoid is dedicated for reverse, if so look into that. Also selector switch.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/climateLCDscreen.html Tanin does sell the LCD to do this fix, as well as the lights and capacitors to do the ecu. I tackled this today and wasn't too bad of a project to do. It was a wrecking yard Control and I have not tried it yet. In my opinion if you need the climate control LCD fixed. It would be best to have tannin do it, they are very reasonable for that fix. I really don't see how they make a dime on that particular job as it doesn't happen real fast. The above link shows prying the case front hook areas, that is not really necessary you can use your fingers/nails and easily to it. I did remove all the guts it just made it easier to work on. Those plug looking things on the boards, I don't think they are gang plugs. So you have to leave all the wires connected except for the small one he noted in the tutorial that connects to the lcd board assembly.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html You need to do this read the code thing first and tell us what it says. There is also a connection port on the engine driver side up front of the intake plenum, in front of the egr stuff. You can use a bent paper clip to connect the proper terminals. You don't need a fat wire like in the picture.

Magda, don't give up on it. I've seen the pics of some of your work, your doing a great job. Even though its probably safe at the trunk hinge wire area, it is still best to disconnect the battery when fooling around the LS400 electrical stuff. You will be looking for a wire that is worn out from opening and closing the trunk lid. It could be obvious and it could be concealed with in the insulation of the wire too.

What is a quick check for that . Lights in the rear?

I wonder if its okay to unplug the IAC valve, to see if it does affect it. Does it do it when cold and hot?

I think its a small gear that wears out, since it is a little motor that runs it. The sensor must be okay since the trip odo works ok.

Yeah but what in the world removed and chipped that paint? Its not like when the door is opened that, that area hits something? I've seen way older cars that never have that.

I've seen ones that look flawless but have had various panels repainted, meaning some sort of damage. Sun roof = moon roof on Ls400. There is no PS cooler. There is a transmission cooler and its in lower tank of the radiator, and make sure the transmission in the car didn't make metal. If it did you need to clean out the lines and the cooler for the new trans. You say the engine has so many miles, how about the rest of the car? It would make me nervous that someone did an engine swap, and what did they mess up or forget in that process. If the body paint and interior is in super good condition I guess its worth it. Does the AC work? And like Landar says you really need to remove the pan on that existing transmission and check things. A used power steering pump may leak too, you should reseal it before installing it. There are o ring and shaft seal kits pretty cheap, I haven't done it yet but shouldn't be too difficult.

Wow the whole top edge of the door is messed up too. I wonder how they accomplished that? Also the moon roof is known for wind noise. Those seals are real bad. My 90's look new compared to that.

Here is what I would do. Go online or even to a transmission shop and get something in printing or writing about the total cost of repairs. Then go on craigslist in your area and print out how much a car like that is advertised for in good running condition. Unless it has super low miles the price is going to run about $2500. or less. Personally I would get the price down much more, unless the owner has a stack of receipts for service done. It may need much more than just a transmission. Suspensions on them go at about 130,000 miles or so, steering pump leakage problems and associated rack problems too. Does the AC work? If not if a shop was fixing it that could be some big bucks. To pay even 1000 for a nonruning car it would have to be spotless body wise, and interior too. What options does it have? Yeah us mechanic sorts can do things a bit cheaper but, its still time and materials, so its not really cheap unless its a fun thing for you to do on a Saturday night. Just make sure all the other stuff works. I'd offer 500 and see what happens. If its super good then go for it. I've been looking for one with no paint and body problems and so far have not found it. And lesson, he had it flushed, I bet they did not use Toyota fluid.

I mean no new holes any place, no hammering a panel to make something fit etc. You don't need a machine shop though it would be handy, to do a swap like that. A good abrasive cut off saw and welder and drill press is about it, and a grinder or so. Make brackets to use all existing holes and or mount points, use existing holes in firewall etc etc. Would you use a carburetor or an efi engine? You would likely have to go with a stand alone engine and transmission controller. Same deal if you are thinking manual transmission. Engineer it so no new holes or anything. And actually its fun and very challenging trying to figure out how to accomplish something like that. Planning the pedal mount and using a hydraulic type and plumbing through existing holes is how to do it. As far as a shifter same deal make the shifter fit the hole not the hole fit the shifter. It gives good skill set and saves a car or other vehicle trying to figure out how to do something by not ruining existing stuff. I guess the dealer and Lexus didn't do that though, with the phone installs at least on the early models they drilled holes under rear window deck to mount the transceiver box. I don't know what year they started doing the behind the tool box panel install. I would pull the wire harness and make your own for the swap. I don't know how abs would work, if you have trac you will not get it to work with out the engine controller interfaced to it.

I actually thought about it at one time too. If you do it just don't do anything to the Lexus body when doing it. Always keep the body in good shape to turn it back into a full fledged Lexus. Make the special adapters to fit the body and mount points. Not trying to make the body fit the new stuff. If done like that its a good tasteful swap that can be reversed at anytime. Keep the original stuff. Just be prepared to not having some things work if you do it. The electrics will be a mess figuring out.

And how did you clean the throttle body? Did you spray anything into the air meter? If so you likely ruined the air meter as there is no way to clean it, unless maybe take the unit apart, it is a sealed unit. I'm not sure where the intake air temp sensor is maybe a spray product would goof it up too. The egr maybe you did something wrong with it and why its throwing the code.

With codes like that very likely the ECU capacitor issue. Though you can have unrelated to the problem codes, but I don't think that many. Here is some study material for you, see if your problems are the same as listing in this thread. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Yeah that day may come when you wish you would have kept it.

Yes could be. And I'm surprised it started, usually leaving it on ignition will ruin something for the ignition system. Make sure all bat connections are good, and check the fuses too. 120 amp fusible link is for the alternator to.

With out some good test instruments its kind of a try this or that sort of thing. Heat related : Here are some could be's. Engine coolant temp sensor, Crank position sensor, igniter, coil, fuel pump resistor. And don't rule out the ECU capacitor issue.

If you have installed an aftermarket radio, I say keep this one because when the time comes you sell the car the new owner might want the original one.

Sounds like a pretty base model with cloth seats and no moon roof. And maybe a 500 dollar wonder too boot..This site is locking up and cant type in here too good

Yeah they could have done something different as far as clearance and that mess behind the manifold on the firewall. But I guess its way better than a new ford truck or Camaro.