Shadow

Of course nothing is scientific in these forums. Just wonder if anyone has pre and post emission data. Nothing's wrong with not having one. :) I believe we all are reasonably intelligent and can make our own decisions as to what to buy and not requesting anyone else to care. We need an open mind and more alternatives and this forum is a great medium to do that.

I employed good old school method once and that cracked my socket. I got a high power gun and larger hose now and haven't find a bold that I cannot crack open.

How much are you asking for in its current condition?

If more than 100X you might as well look for more than just a cracked pipe.

Would you mind share those search engines? I hope they aren't AutoTrader cause I haven't seen great deal lately.

Brave soul you are for contemplating buying one without seeing it or someone you trust seeing it. It's scarier than opening a box of chocolate if you know what I mean.

Try this: http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/howto_f...nel_removal.htm Thanks to Retrodrive.

I agree if, and only if, the behavior of aftermarket universal sensor is the same as OEM, that is, the voltage vs. O2 concentration curves are exactly the same. But are they? The ECU is calibrated to work with OEM sensors, so unless aftermarket sensors performs similar to that of OEM sensors throughout the designed range, the system won't perform optimally as designed. I have seen cars with driveability problems with no diagnostic code and the techs would have hell of a time troubleshooting until someone points out aftermarket O2 sensors were installed. Once replaced with OEM, driveability problems all but disappear. Just curious how aftermarket O2 works out for LS, seems like all are well so far.

I will gladly lead if you are willing to do the work.

No chirp in 91 OEM alarm.

It has been awhile since I last worked on LS alarm system but I recall there is a switch in the door lock/unlock mechanism to tell the alarm system that the lock has been unlocked by the key so the alarm would not get activated. Might look into that switch.

Yeah, there won't be accident reported on CarFax unless the accident is major. I have seen history of wrecked cars and no sign of wreck on CarFax which make me wonder...

Looked like you replaced with universal sensor. Did emission results change with universal sensor? Thanks for your inputs and excellent tutorials.

Post your emission results.

Does anyone use aftermarket pre-catalytic O2 sensors? If so, which brand and how do they perform relative to OEM in terms of gas mileage, emission results, etc...?

The press is not needed to remove/install the bearing. A few taps from the hammer is all that is needed.

Backup from what?

What year and mileage?

Toyota Supra turbo also has electronic fan in front of AC condenser to increase heat dissipating capacity of both AC condenser and radiator. LS has excellent radiator heat dissipating capacity when cooling and drivetrain systems are properly maintained and in good working order. In those that are not, even fully engaged fan clutch and electrical fans will not be sufficient to remove buildup heat from radiator, resulting in overheated engines.

:whistles: I believe mehullica is talking about the effect of EGR on "the combustion chamber temperature" and SKperformance is talking about the effect of EGR on intake air temperature. Higher intake air temperature does not necessarily mean higher combustion chamber temperature. In the case of EGR, recycling hot exhaust gas do indeed lower combustion chamber temperature (mehullica ) to reduce nitrous oxide emission. Search the net for more info. Here is one if your search ends in failure. http://www.misterfixit.com/egrvalve.htm

Did you replace with OEM or universal O2 sensors?

Not true! AC condenser sits in front of radiator. Heat given off by the condenser will decrease cooling efficiency of radiator. The net result is decrease cooling capacity of radiator which could result in engine overheating under certain conditions. Over notice signs to turn off AC when going uphill?

Since you have interference engine, you should turn the crankshaft by hand at least two revolutions in the same direction as when the engine runs to dectect any valve-piston collision problems after you replaced the belt.

Yes, I know exactly what you're talking about. You'll have to take the top covers off to see the cam marks. Normally, the timing belt should stay where it is if you carefully replace the hydraulic tensioner, but things can happen when there is tension on side of the belt and slack on the other. If I were you, I would turn the crankshaft by hand (using ratchet) clockwise (when viewed from front, which should be the same direction as the engine normal rotation) and stop at the point with least resistance then turn counter-clockwise just a tiny bit to elevate tension and the tension side of the belt before removing the tensioner. Perform my procedure at your own risks ofcourse. :D

Quite reasonal statement but it is not impossible to mess up the timing afterward. Be sure to check the camshafts and crankshaft timing marks before and after the replacement. If they are off marks, you will be in for a rude awakening.