justin97

ouch what the fawk hit u......

roads around here dont like lowered cars, i have bottomed out the struts so many time with this car, no rubing at all but i did use i think a 3/8 spacer in the rear only, i might lower it one day ;) maybe

I am almost certain that the IS WHeels will NOT fit an ES. The offset is TOO positive. The offset on an IS is about 50mm. You need 35-40mm on the ES model. Avalon, Camry or newer ES wheels will work no problem. watch what tires you get, it will rub the rear strut, a lil spacer and no rub i have 215/50 r 17.

yes ur in about the same climate.well wet wise.

are you takin the number of mile / by the number of gallons u put in the tank (not the tank size) u will never use 18.5 gallons out of your tank period. i saw a drop in mpg about 6 months before my o2 sensor poped up a c/e light i couldnt get over 23 mpg drving it the easist i could. around here i get approx 100 miles every quarter, lots of mountains and i drive alittle hard, i stil get about 21ish 22, on trips i i have hit 400+ mile and be no where near the low fuel light and got 30ish mpg

"..Which would you rather take..." Back when I was traveling I didn't mind if the car I rented was FWD unless it was during the winter months or severe weather. Apparently you choose comfort over safety, I rarely do that, at least not knowingly. But my question is...why do you consider the Camry to be more comfortable, especially in the "wet". "....i normally over accelerate in both...." Hmmm, a leadfoot, like me some of the time. You do realize, do you not, that wheelspin/slip due to "over-acceleration" in a FWD is virtually undetectable vs the relative ease with which it is detectable in a RWD vehicle? If wheelspin/slip develops in any RWD, and your "light-assed" RWD truck will be especially prone to this, the rear end will quite quickly start trying to pass the front. Whereas with FWD the driver must rely mostly on the "sound" of wheelspin/slip in order to "know" too much engine torque is being applied for the current roadbed traction level/capability. That's why a traction control system is so much more important with a FWD vehicle vs RWD. "...the car didnt spin it just revved up like it was, i know when the car spins, i have done that all to often also...." The above statement seems to imply that you're saying that the "car" didn't spin.... Well said, well taken. My POINT, exactly. PS: What, exactly, is the tread condition of those front tires..?? hell, if u lived around here you would get to drive in the rain more days than the dry. Camry hehe overpriced camry is what i call her. spinning in the front wheel drive, is easy to detect, you just have to be use to the way the car rides. i could tell u everytime the car is about to break traction, u can feel is in the steering wheel and throttle, kinda like if i am slowly pushing the pedal down i can tell when the car is going to down shift everytime. i was refering to that i think that is when the selonid crapped out cause it started to down shift and the kicked back up i guess in to first or something, i assoiated the free reving for spinning my two front tires are about a month old and have about 95% tread and about 5000 miles or so on them maybe. i hit a pot hole and put a knot on one so i replaced both. the rear are about a month older than the front. hell i use my lexus as my beater car.

oh really?! napa i got mine coming from lexus they only sell all four, it was 225 i think

Thanks, he is a smart one isn't he but there was only the o2 code

update.... well the code was po0135 bank 1 sensor 1, os i have an o2 going bad, but that doesnt help my pproblem well after some testing second will engauge if u drop it to "2" so i will work manually, so we have concluded that it was in fact the shift sleonid that is bad, but the only come in complete kits so at the tune of 225 + labor i can have my tranny fixed, and i am. if this info doent sound correct please comment.

"...cause it was raining...." Why would you switch from a nice solidly "planted", otherwise entirely predictable, RWD truck to a patently unsafe FWD car because it was raining? I guess I should give/cut you some slack, maybe you didn't want the to truck bed to fill with water... Personally I would have put a few hundred pounds of sand in my truck bed and MOTOR ON. Sounds as if you have little experience with FWD in the wet. The burning odor was most likely your own front tires slipping. Upgrade to one with VSC/Trac or give it back to your wife, she'll know how to drive it properly, non-aggressively in the wet. As a general rule FWD, or front biased AWD, vehicles do not "try" to change directions with driven wheelslip/spin due to engine torque, making it somewhat hard to quickly detect/discern an over torque condition resulting in wheespin/slip. RWD, or rear biased AWD vehicles on the other hand, are somewhat famous for sudden chances in direction in this same circumstance. For instance your RWD, "light" !Removed!-end, truck would be especially quick to exhibit skidding or over-stearing in this circumsatnce. Also remember that under-stearing is MUCH more common in FWD, or..., vehicles, whereas RWD, or..., are FAMOUSLY more likely to over-stear in the condition you encountered. PS: I have concluded that your car does not have traction control since you indicate a CEL but do not mention the Trac fault light whichn is ALWAYS illuminated with CEL. which would you rather take on a two hour drive a es300 or a reg cab tacoma, i have had the car since 01 i know how to drive it in the rain i normally over accelerate in both the truck and car. the truck likes to kick to the passingerside under over accelerating because of the trd lsd. and i will never own a car that has trac. or vsc. unless it can be turned off easliy, honestly i hate automatics.(but cant complain about a free car. the smell was not tires,it honeslty smell like clutch( i know that smell all to well also) that all of this is beside of the point. the car didnt spin it just revved up like it was, i know when thecar spin i have done that all to often also. tomarrow i am taking it to get the code read.

that is what i was thinking, are they external or internal.

well i decided to drive the car today instead of my truck cause it was raining. well about 1/2 hour in to it i pulled out at a red light, i wasnt giving it alot of gas but it held 1st till ~4500rpms and felt like it was spinning i was like damnit, i do remember a slight burning smellbut that could of been the old chevy in front of me. well later i got behind some slow people doing about 50 in a 65(rain had stopped and it was clearing up) i punched it and it just bounced off the rev limiter, um ok, so after some more driving it will no longer go into second and on my retrun trip the c/e light kicked on, so i need to see what code but have any clue why what or how my tranny droped or slipped or something to second, but the rest shift fine and it drives fine in the rest of the gears.

that is how i fubared my tranny................:chairshot: not like the vids,

I used to have a leak on the right side of the trunk area. I discovered that water was getting in around the outer plastic mounting hardware for the radio antenna. I put a new rubber O-ring around the antenna underneath the outer molding and tightened up the antenna mast. No more water in the trunk. Something else to check - there are moonroof drainage hoses that run from the roof area, down through the trunk area, and drain out through holes near the rear wheel wells. If the hoses are leaking or got pulled out of their exit holes in the wheel wells, they could leak water into the trunk. There is also a drainage hose attached to the radio antenna housing which drains out the bottom of the trunk below the antenna motor. Make sure it is not leaking water into the trunk. Also, check the condition of the thick rubber molding that runs around the lip of the trunk area which is there to prevent water from running into the trunk when it rains or after a wash. 97 have the antenna made into the back glass...my guess is the drain hose.

how did u do the mod did u snip a wire or add extensions to it? turn every thing back to stock and then see if it works, also make sure the switch is on.

my wife drive an 06 tc trhat is blask sand pearl, if dont wash and wax it correctly u can see swirl marks, after one day it looks dusty, and everyone know black shows scratches like crazy. have you ever heard the old saying if you cant get it right paint it white. cause white hides everything.

i put 5 1/2 quarts in all toyota 3.0/3.3 engines me too it says it is full then hell my 3rz take 5.5 quarts.

my friends silverado does..

i find the one in the dash to be touchy did u try the one under the console?

saw that car on hidplanet, nice retro also, i saw him street racing. mad props to him

i have single also. but my taco has 4 piston in the front.

i have a remote start that works great, tap the buttin twice while the car is running, pull the keys out and dont touch the brake. no key left in car and if someone would get in it would shut off at the touch of the brake. but after 15 min it shuts it self off i think. i know if u start it, it will wrun for 15 thn shut off, that is what i have it set at.

i also reccomend changing all four at the same time. i paid ~400 for labor and 4 monroe senatrac's if u just chage change the front and not the rear, when u hit a bump on at 70 the front absorbs and the rear bounces a litlle gives u a funny unstable feeling.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145544

just replaced the caliper due to it sticking, didnt fix it. it more of a poping noise when the car arctulates. i changed the fluid it was still mostly redish. well red tinted. kick down cable? yeah i think it does what way should i turn it.