mikey00

There are a lot of places online to get a new key. Just google "Lexus key" or try ebay or toy-lex.com. I would recommend getting it cut from the place you purchase it. They can do this from your vin or key code. If you buy an un-cut key and try to have it cut locally some places refuse claiming some keys are made in China and can ruin their machine. This may be valid or maybe just a way to sell their own keys but it really doesn't matter. You will find aftermarket keys at toy-lex.com with a better warranty than Lexus OEM.

I know you said you had no problem programming the keys (just the remotes) but I just need to clarify. The key is just a dumb piece of cut metal with a plastic head that is cut to turn the ignition cylinder. All the smarts are in the remote electronics. So when you first program the key to start the car the remote electronics must be in it and it is the remote electronics that is actually getting programmed to allow the car to start. This must be completed and the key must be able to start the car before moving on to program the remotes. If it is not done then you can't enter program mode when you try to program the remotes. Next you move to the remote programming steps. You use the key that you just programmed to start the car with the electronics in place for all the steps in this process. I am not trying to say you are doing anything wrong but this is where others have had problems with the programming process.

From the 1999 RX service manual: When anti-theft system is set (armed), system locks all doors, flashes headlights and taillights, and sounds alarm if one of following conditions occur. See Fig. 1. * Any door (including back door) or engine hood is forcibly opened. * Battery cable is disconnected, and then reconnected. * System receives panic signal from remote keyless entry system. Canceling Anti-Theft System Setting (Alarm Sounding) When system is set (armed) and alarm is sounding, use one of following methods to cancel system setting: * Unlock left or right door with key. * Unlock doors using remote keyless entry system. * Insert key into ignition cylinder and turn to ON position. * Wait about one minute after alarm has sounded. After one minute, anti-theft system will automatically reset in about 2 seconds if all doors are closed.

Your not the first one to have an alarm issue after a battery disconnect. If you search over at Club Lexus you will get a lot of hits but no real solutions. My first thought would be to try another battery. Even if you just disconnect the RX battery and run jumper wires from another car for a test.

Unlimited mileage has always been part of the warranty even in the original letter sent out by Lexus in June 2002.

It's the bulb. Very common problem on RX. You will find directions here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...eferrerid=12681

I was sure I remembered reading at some time about a error in the 99 manual regarding remote programming. However, I just did a pretty extensive search and came up empty handed. So I will have to blame this on my memory. I do know that many have used the toy-lex instructions and they work and as long as they are the same as the manual, the manual must be correct. The only other long shot I can think of here is: I wonder if any one has done a door lock actuator repair on your RX and in doing so has disabled an input necessary for remote programming. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=41219

Or just go to Toyota and buy 4 non-lock lug nuts and have a tire shop remove the locks and throw them away. This will save you future problems with locks. Nobody steals stock RX wheels/tires anymore. There are a lot of easier more profitable items these days. Unless you really live in the wrong neighborhood, then nothing is safe.

I do remember reading that there is a mistake in the service manual key programming. Do a search here and over at the other lexus site. Or try comparing with directions here: http://www.toy-lex.com/

What is the source of thes directions? Are you sure they are the right ones for a RX300? Sorry, I don't have time to check right now but they do look different then I am used to seeing.

The clip you posted a pic of is the wear indicator. New factory pads come without one and is is nesessary to remove it from the old one and install on the new. New aftermarket pads usually come with the wear indicator built in. But that's not causing your brake light. Only problem is that when your pads reach the end of their life you won't hear a squeel. Also you won't find the fluid sensor built into the cap, it is part of the resovoir. I think your light may be caused by pushing the fluid back as code58 said. I would try bleeding the brakes and see if it gets rid of it. Also may be worth disconnecting the battery cable for a few minutes to try and reset it.

Sounds like it's set on "auto" and working as designed.

I created a new topic where I posted the link to a copy of the 99 RX300 repair manual that I found and put permanantly on my personal site for others to access but the topic has been deleted for some reason. The file is far too large to upload to the forum's server so I guess now I know why people continue to post topics asking where a copy of the 99 manual can be found. I had to click on many expired links until I found one that still worked and who knows how long it will remain working. Not sure why my post was deleted.:chairshot: Are you sure your post was deleted? Or did you just misplace it? If I click on the above link for the 2003 manual, your post with the link to your site is there.

Are you original owner? No. My wife bought it with about 50k on it. She bought it before we were married so I have to go on what she says. She said the Lexus rep told her the previous owner kept a meticulous service history. I will have to check the transmission tag to see if it matches the id on the door jam. I bet the trans was replaced or rebuild using the upgraded parts during the original owners period. The tag should still match if it was rebuilt. "Lexus rep" sounds like you mean the salesman, in which case all previous owners always kept meticulous service records. I am still waiting for the car salesman that tells me that the prevoius owner really didn't take care of this car

Are you original owner?

Thanks I'll give it a try. I changed the gas cap and check the hoses around the airbox. I did't notice any hoses disconnected. The code #'s are P0125, P01130 and P01135. I am going to try and check the hoses again and see if I see anyting. Troubleshoot the codes you have rather than wasting money on a gas cap and wasting time looking for the evap hose that often becomes disconnected behind the air box. If it were either of these you would have an evap type code like P0440, P441 and P0446.

You can get a whole new key cut for your car for $40 from toy-lex.com. Then all you have to do is put your electronics in. Very easy, no programming. Or just get a rubber key cover from thejacketstore.com. It will hold your broken case together and also prevent future breaks. That's what I did.

Are you sure you need a canister? It is a common occurrence that during an oil change someone opens the air box to check the air filter. When lifting the top of the air box it is very easy to disconnect the evap hose from the metal tube located behind and below the air box directly under the brake fluid container. This will give a evap type code with a CEL.

$97. at newlexusparts.com

IX is a performance series plug from NGK that will work fine in the RX. The thing to remember is that it is a 30,000 mile plug not the 120,000 mile NGK IFR6A11 or Denso SK20R11 that comes in the RX and is recommended in the owners manual. From the Denso website: "many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications" The Denso Iridium Power Plug is the equivalent of the NGK IX plug. Being that it is such a pain to change the RX plugs, I would use nothing but the NGKs or Densos recommended in the owner’s manual. The NGKs should be next to impossible to find being that NGK obseleted the IFR6A11 with no direct replacement. My RX came with the Densos and they looked new when I pulled them at 125K. I replaced them with the same.

Not sure about that. But are you sure you don't have the towing prep package? It was standard equipment in 2001 for AWD and possibly FWD.

Is the tranny a major problem? And if so how expensive is to replace it? I am thinking of buying a 1999 RX300 and for my budget, I can only get something over 100kms anyway. I don't want to start a discussion on transmission reliability, so just put "RX300 transmission failure" into any search engine such as google and prepare to be amazed. Or use the search function of this forum and search on "transmission failure". Then you can come to your own conculsion. As far as cost goes, I think $3400. is about the average rebuild price, which is what I paid. Lexus wanted $6,000. to install a rebuilt trans.

Swap the coil packs as already suggested to see if it is the packs or plugs. I can almost guarantee it is not the plugs. Plugs are due to be changed at 120K. But a lot of people run them well over 120K and they still look like new when changed. Mine came out at 130K looking like new. I have heard of a lot of people fixing the misfire problem with new coil packs but never one with bad plugs but there is always that possibility. Just trying to say that the odds are with the packs not the plugs.

The 01 already has 2 coolers. One is located in the fender well, visible through the louvers in the fender well liner. The other one is on the bottom of the radiator, a little more difficult to see but follow the trans fluid lines to see.

Sure sounds like a weak door lock actuator. When you press the lock button do you get any indication that the RX has received the signal (beep or parking light flash)? If so I wouldn't suspect the remote. Did you check all the doors to make sure they all fail to lock? Or is it just one? If you want to eliminate the static electricty possibility without going out and buying anything, just get a clothes dryer sheet (like Bounce) and fold it and put it in your pocket with the remote for a test. If it does turn out to be the actuator there is a long discussion on the repair here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...amp;hl=actuator