mikey00

Were the Michelin tires you replaced Michelin Energy tires? I know Michelin makes fuel efficiency claims for these tires and I have read some good reviews from users. I remember a guy with a 2006 Highlander claiming 5+mpg when he changed to Michelin Energy.

The original post was about a RX300 and you have a RX330 which is slightly different. Anyway, you need the converter module which is located behind the driver's side rear seat somewhere. I can't tell you the exact spot, I have a RX300 which has it located in the cargo tray area. Check here for more info about RX330 converter module: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-second-...tion-block.html

Just to clarify, when you said you have the aux trans cooler you did mean the little radiator type one in the fender well, right? That is the one I believe is part of the towing prep package. There is another trans cooler which is part of the bottom of the radiator. Most people don't even know this one exists. I think it was standard equip. You can see it in the link I attached labeled "oil cooler". Anyway my RX had both coolers, the fluid was maintained, and it was driven primarialy by my wife on easy country road commutes and the trans still failed at 133K. My personal opinion is that they all have the planatary gear design flaw discovered by lenore and additional cooling and filtering don't really help. Back to topic, I did have problems with the light failure indicator 2 or 3 times with all lights working and was usually able to solve it by reseating the center brake light bulb. I think that connection is a little touchy, at least on mine anyway. 1999 RX 300 Radiator

Sorry to answer a question with a question but you did replace with the exact same size tire, right?

Did you even try the pinch protection adjustment? I am pretty sure that is going to fix it. Very easy to do, just a matter of holding down window switches. It's in your owner's manual.

Lenore, Interesting thought about the converter causing the problem. Definetly worth looking at if the bulbs don't fix it. Code58, The cooler was part of the towing prep package so it sounds like you have the converter. I realize you have a 99, but in 01 the towing prep was even added as standard equipment. Most likely they were trying to solve the trans problem with additional cooling. Being that when you add one it's just a matter of plugging it in, you should be able to just unplug it and everything should continue to work. The converter doesn't actually work until you add the 20amp tow fuse in the fuse box but I bet even without the fuse it is still connected to the rear lights and could potentially cause a problem.

You are on the RX forum. On the RX this would be the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). I am pretty sure the ES is the same. Here is the cleaning procedure: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=30723

It looks like in lemon's post above he snapped the head off the caliper bolt. They are 2 different bolts with 2 different purposes. One is long and thin and is part of the sliding pin system. Other is short and just holds caliper or caliper mounting plate (depending on which year) firmly in place.

This won't work unless you have the guts from a old key to load into the new one. The security chip is located in the guts part, not the key, so there is nothing to clone. Even if the chip was located in the key part the keys on ebay are not "clonable". To clone a key you first need a special clone able key and and key cloning equipment to do it. Instead of cloning, what is typically done on the RX is to buy another complete key and program the ECU in the RX to accept the key. Google RX300 key. Here is one of many sources for keys: www.toy-lex.com

First check the bulbs as Lenore suggested. Clean the connection and even shake the bulb a little looking for a loose filament. If this doesn't do it, start looking at the type of bulb. I seem to rembmber some aftermarket bulbs causing this problem, the long life ones in particular.

If you read between the lines on my post just before his you may come up with the same conculsion.

Sounds like it is just the pinch protection. There is a simple procedure in the owners manual to adjust it. As far as the antenna goes, clean up the mast real good with something like WD40. Usually this enough to get it working.

Jim's first post was about a 2000 RX. His specs agree with the specs I have in a 1999/2000 manual. It's been a while since I have done my 01 brakes but I seem to remember that the front caliper bolts hold the caliper on directly but the rear ones are part of the sliding pin system. This would account for the front to rear torque difference. I could be wrong here, You need to check when you have it apart. Just be careful and make sure you know the difference between caliper bolts and support plate bolts. Lenore, I am not sure where you got your specs from but they seem to agree with my 2003 manual. There was a design change in 2003 and I am not sure if these specs apply to 2000. I think this was the first year that the front caliper mounting bolt became part of the sliding pin system so the torque was lowered. And the front bracket was no longer part of the sliding pin system so its torque was raised. The PDFs Lemon posted are from a 2004 RX330 which had another brake design change with different specs.

Your talking where the converter block is located on the RX300. They are talking 05 RX330. Two different locations.

OBDII connector located by your left knee when sitting in driving position. Picture of actual connector is located in one of the posts above.

Great post carguy07, with accurate helpful facts. I think we can all learn a little, from a post like this, on how to be helpful to a new member trying to get help with his first post. Lets hope he came back to read your post. If he did, he most likely will have a success story to post.

I'm pretty sure Toyota stopped using Toyota Long Life Red, a 30,000 mile coolant, before 2004. Red is in my 2000 and 2001 RX 300 but they changed to pink sometime around 2003. Your Rx330 should have Toyota Super Long Life Pink which is good for 100k. The sticker you are reading under the hood leads me to believe you definitely have the Ultra Long Life Pink. As far as the trans goes I think you would be safe going with the lifetime recomendation as long as you check it regularly and monitor its condition. Earlier RX transmissions had a design problem which which cast some doubt on this "lifetime" claim. However, if it were me I would change it at 30k just to be safe. I am still a little gun shy from my 2001 trans failure. Let someone else prove the lifetime claim.

You most likely have the LED problem. Check this post from below: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=58865

I think Lenore's post above pretty much nets it out. I was hoping you were going to come up with one of the engine realted codes where the ECU prevents the tranny from shifting into OD. This is not the case you have a tranny problem. Check here for others that have had the same code and their resolution: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/search.php?searchid=3974430

Sorry about that. Try here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-second-...eplacement.html and here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-second-...the-rx400h.html

Here you go: http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/~rx300ho..._light_lamp.htm

From your post it sounds like before Aamco worked on your trans, they or someone else read the code and it pointed to a shift solenoid. After replacement the CEL is back on and trans won't shift into OD. Now they are telling you the ECU is not letting the trans shift into OD and to get the code read. This is reasonable for there are some engine related codes that do exactly this. My problem with this whole thing is if they read the first code that pointed to the solenoid, why can't read the code again and tell you what it is? Bottom line is you need to get the current code read. Maybe even reset it and read it again. You can buy a cheap scanner and do it yourself (Harbor Freight is one of many sources). Also most AutoZones will read it for free. Or find whatever sources are available locally. I would stay away from the dealer at this point unless you are looking for convenience and don't mind spending major $$. My bet is you are going to have some non-transmission related engine type code that needs to be repaired. Once repaired, the ECU will let the trans shift into OD. But until the current code is read you are shooting in the dark.

I have to agree with code58 here, it sounds like you may have a can of worms. A 2000 RX with 120K on it with trans shifting problems with clean fluid sounds unusual. The previous owner may have flushed the trans in an attempt to solve the issues. Or maybe it's a bad rebuilt trans. The result of both would be clean fluid in a malfunctioning trans. Is there any way for you to obtain the service history of this vehicle? You could pull the service history from Lexus, using your vin, which would at least show if Lexus performed service. If you see Lexus put a rebuilt trans in sometime before your purchase I would bet it's a bad rebuild. Of course this won't list any work done by independents. If it were me, I would first concentrate on the CEL. You need to get the codes read and report back here with them or have the cause fixed. Sometimes engine sensor codes affect the operation of the trans through the ECU. Many times engine problems are miss-diagnosed as trans problems because of this. Are you sure you are shifting into overdrive? With many CEL codes your ECU prevents the tranny from shifting into overdrive. Count your shift points. You should feel a 1st to 2nd shift somewhere around 20mph, a 2nd to 3rd somewhere around 35mph and finally a shift from 3rd to 4th(od) somewhere around 45mph. Or you may end up with a code indicating a trans prob such as speed sensor or shift solenoid. Once the CEL is fixed, if the trans problem is still there, I would do a trans drain and fill. I agree with the previous comments that draining clean fluid is a long shot but this assumes that you know what type of trans fluid is in there. The previous owner may have used some incompatible fluid, which could be causing the problem.

Look carefully, and if I am not mistaken, from a post some time ago about the same thing, there should be 2 small round plugs on the footrest. take those out and you should find 2 screws that will make it a little easier to get off when you pull on it. Don't pull too hard once the screws are out... if ya know what I mean! Thanks 58, I found the round plugs...briefly tried to get them out before going to work...man, those things are in tight. I tried a pair of alligator pliers, they would not budge. I'll work on it more this evening. If anybody has a trick for getting these plugs out, please tell me! They don't unscrew do they Ricco? Sure doesn't seem like they should be that hard to get out. Last night I mixed some liquid dish detergent 50-50 with water, took a q-tip and swabbed both plugs generously. This morning I tried again to get them out, no luck. They do rotate, but they don't unscrew. At every 180 degrees of rotation, they make an audible "click". I tried pulling them out at varying degrees of rotation, same results. I'm ready for a stick of C4 ! I bet the plugs themselves don't come out. Try turning them till they click then pull the footrest off.

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