Russ White

The passenger side HID Low Beam was not working. I decided I would remove it and if not obviously bad, install it in the driver's side to make sure the bulb was bad and not the ballast. I removed one bolt holding the fill spout for the windshield washer resivoir and then removed the fill spout. To gain a little more access I removed a push in clip holding a electrical cable bundle near the back of the lamp assembly. I then removed the cover over the back of the HID Low Beam by turning counter clockiwise when viewed from the rear. You will then see the shiny braided shield of the high voltage cable going to the back of the HID bulb. There are two clips that must be pushed down and out and then pulled out from between the black base of the bulb and the silver metal of the bulb socket. The clip assembly can then be rotated back clearing the bulb and socket for removal from the reflector. Work slowly and carefully so as not to break the bulb when you remove it from the reflector. Once removed, the bulb base must be pressed down into the socket and then rotated to free the bulb from the socket. Be sure to note exactly how the bulb was oriented in the socket so the replacement is installed in the same orientation. In my case, the bulb was obviously bad and I put the new one in and reversed the steps to finish the job. The bulbs are super expensive so be careful. I paid about $150 and was lucky to find one in stock at Advance Auto. Good Luck! Russ

Mark, I have a 2001 with 69K. I found out that the air/fuel sensors are very easily contaminated. I got a little engine degreaser near my front one and started getting the CEL and ABS trouble lights. The good news is, after several days of driving it must have burned itself clean. I just reset the trouble code by pulling the EFI fuse, waiting 30 seconds, and putting it back in ( engine off ). This low cost method may be worth a try. Since you know the code is sensor related I don't think there is much risk in giving it a try. Good luck. Russ

Guy and Gals, I eventually answered my own question... I was unable in a city the size of Knoxville TN to find anyone to cut the key besides the dealer. The one locksmith that said they could had their machine break the next day. They wanted $50 and I was going to pay that, but when that fell through I continue looking. Below I have listed two posibilities. The first is a private locksmith, and is the one I used to have may blank cut. They did a great job and the programming went without a hitch and my key works perfectly. They were good with email and even offered help with programming if needed, but thanks to this site, I had that covered. The second is a Lexus dealer and their replay came after I had already commited to Frank's Locksmith. It looks like their price is even better - so if I need another I may try them. I also accumulated several posting on the programming portion and combined them into a file. I anyone needs that I would be glad to email it to you. Russ, We can cut the key for you for $25.00. I can send it back to you priority mail plus insurance for $5.00. If you would like us to cut it, you can send it to: Frank's Locksmith 956 N. Cocoa Blvd. #1105 Cocoa, FL 32922 If you plan on sending it let me know so I can keep an eye out for it. Sincerely, Tami Calhoun Frank's Locksmith $10 for each key and $8.75 for shipping back to you. Should you have any further questions in the meantime, please feel free to contact me directly. Thank you for your time. With best regards, Darrel Diller Sewell Lexus of Dallas www.lexus-parts.com 6421 Lemmon Avenue Dallas, TX 75209 (866) 770-3099 ext: 2826 (214) 353-2826 (214) 350-5398 Fax ddiller@sewell.com Russ White

Hi, My 2001 with 67K had the same lights come on after I accidentally got some of the engine degreaser I was using on the front Oxygen sensor. I reset the codes a few times by pulling the fuse for the ECU's memory. After several drives the heat cleaned up the contaminated Oxygen sensor and I have had no problems or warning lights since. I doubt this is your situation, but at least you know all three lights can result from just one problem. Good luck. Russ

My idea would be to have the battery load tested. I suspect a defective or worn out battery. Good luck. Russ

wwest, Sounds like a nice improvement. Could you post a picture? Was the wiring necessary to make the dome light portion work when the door/s is opened already available at the old map light location? Thanks, Russ

Hi Tony, Thanks so much for your reply. That is exactly the information I needed. All new members are denied the privleges you mentioned until they have contributed some number of posts - I don't know the exact number. I was frustrated at the beginning too, but just keep chiming in with questions or answers and before long your status will change from new club member and you will be able to PM and email other members. Russ

Randy, I had not experienced your symptoms, but if I did I might suspect some component of the systems that determine fuel richness at starting. In general, when an engine is started "cold", the fuel must be enriched to compensate for the condensation of the fuel on the side of the induction chamber on the cylinder walls and head. If there was some problem in that area the fuel might be too lean in some cylindars and not fire properly, requiring you to make the starting adjustment you describe. It may be hard to locate as long as it remains intermittent. A good scan tool that could read the value of the temperature sensor used to tell the ECU how much extra fuel to add would be helpful. Does the problem seem any worse when the engine is very cold? I don't think a fule injector cleaner would hurt - I use Techron. I would not suspect the fuel filter as that normally would show up first under full flow condtions like a long pull on a steep mountain or under sustained heavy acceleration. This could be a tough one. Good luck! Russ

David, I took a look on my 2001. When the plastic hand nut is removed, the cross bar is released from the slider in the track. The slider is free to move anywhere you want in the track. I could not find any star shaped allen head bolts. I have noticed Lexus is fond of using torq fasteners so you might try sketching the bolt head and visiting Sears for tools. Sorry I could not be more help, Russ

mcfancy, Thanks for the info on the 04 RX330. Something has obviously changed as I was able to purchase black master key from Ebay, have it cut by a locksmith, and do all the programming myself for entry and starting from information previously posted on this site. So I guess for new car owners it's a trip to the dealer - is that correct? Russ

David, I don't think you have any problem. Mine runs about 1/2 all the time. If there were enough air in there to be a problem, the indication would be much higher. Any small trapped air will work its way out shortly. Just continue to watch the level in the overflow tank and keep it full. All should be okay. Have a Happy NewYear. Russ

For my 2001 RX300 - draining produced a little over 4 quarts. The level was measured according to the instruction in the shop manual after a 1/2 drive before the drain. As a reminder, with the engine running, set the emergency brake. With your foot on the brake, move the shift selector from park, to R, to N, to D, and finally to low. Then stopping at each selection, return to park. With the engine still running, measure the transmission fluid level. After I replaced the drained fluid with 4 quarts of type IV, the level was right on the upper notch of the hot range. BTW, the end of the transmission dip stick has a bend in it from the factory - I wonder why. Hope this helps. Russ

Don't know what you would consider a "fair price". But I used Park Place Lexus of Plano Texas and had the filter delivered to my door in Tennessee for $17.96. Use the following link if interested. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808 Russ

David, The block plug is shown on the shop manual engine diagram, but I was unable to locate it on the engine. It is certainly not nearly as accessible as the plug in the bottom of the radiator. That contributed to my decision to do the drain and fill rather than a flush with engine block drain. Russ

David, That was a good link with descriptions of the two basic procedures. A complete flush and drain using the petcock/s on the engine block and the method I used, just a drain and fill. I plan to do a drain and fill every year and think I can get the same result as the less frequent flush. I did my drain as fill as follows: With the coolant warm or cold, but not hot, remove the plastic lip pan that is below the radiator. Suck out the coolant from the resivoir ( I used a turkey baster dedicated to the shop). At the bottom of the radiator you will see a white plastic drain plug with a small spiget pointing down. Opening the plug slightly will let cooland drain out, but removing the plug will drain it much more quickly, but will be a bit messy. The radiator cap should be removed so air can replace the coolant that is draining out. Be sure to use Toyota's long life red coolant and distilled water to mix a 50/50 mixture. I mix mine in a graduated plastic orange juice container to keep track of both what I drained and what I put back in. After you have added all that will go in, go for a drive with the heater on. When the car cools, top up the resivoir if necessary. Continue to check the resivoir for the next few trips until it reaches a constant level. My coolant after 66,000 miles when drained looked just like new. Good luck. Russ