bartkat

Thank you for posting the ECU diagram. I have bought the lowering springs (front & rear) for my IS350. After I installed them, the "AFS OFF" indicator keeps flashing. Do you or anyone know why it does that??? Does it have to do something with the "front and rear height control sensor"? Thanks Not sure how the sensors are on the 2nd gen models, but on the IS300 it was common for the rear sensor arm to get knocked way out of whack when people changed springs and didn't know how or why the rear leveling link was supposed to look. However, that is most likely the problem. The front sensor rarely needs any adjustments. It's always the rear one.

It appears that the ECU is a subassembly of the headlight assembly. Headlight_assy.pdf

Perhaps more details of the accident would be helpful.

Try the search feature. There's been much discussion on this topic.

The blower is behind the glove compartment. If you take out the gove box and then the cabin filter you'll be looking at the fan. I think the motor is just a driect drive under the fan, but I don't know how to change it.

I've never been to Montreal, but I've driven I75 from Chattanooga to Northern Ohio and back a couple of times, I drive on county mountain roads weekly, and my car has no rattles. I'm only here trying to help you guys find the problems with your cars. You all can take my advice or not, but you'll just have to do what it takes to find and fix the problems, whether it be from the dealer, a DIY, or a helpful friend. When I got my IS300 back in 03, I found out it had a serious suspension noise. It was a used car with 13,000 miles. Lexus went over the suspension and said they tighened up parts in the front suspension. The car still had the noise so I started checking things out via the method I mentioned earlier. Within 30 minutes I had pinpointed the location of the noise, found it to be a loose sway bar mounting bracket, tightened that up, and drove the car rattle free for 2 more years until I purchased the IS350. Sometimes you just have to do it yourself.

How many miles on those cars?

Well ain't that just grand... Sure.. I just happen to have the time and jacks and hoist and other automotive tools laying around my garage to be able to do that myself. I'm just trying to give you the options. No need for a smarty pants reply. :chairshot: Depends on how many trips you want to make to the dealership, or how many times you want to drive around trying to figure it out. Mainly it depends on how much it bothers you and how badly you want to figure it out. That's not going to happen sitting in a rocking chair.

A bad tire?

I said ask the dealer so you'd get an idea of their price. You could probably do it for half that, but it gives you a number to start from. If half their price is too much, then you know. There is probably a whole memory seat/memory steering wheel computer that you'd need. Just my guess, but you can always find out. Or you could go to http://techinfo.lexus.com/ pay $10 for 24 hours of download access and get the electricals and the parts diagrams for both types of seats and see what's involved. You can download the entire tech maunual there, one PDF at a time.

Sure thing man. I had my dealer line mine up and it still didn't suit me. So I asked them to show me how. They gave me that set of instructions. I have mine just a little higher than the line on the directions, but nobody flashes me so I think it's ok.

If it only does this when taking off from a stop, it could be a delay in the pedal/throttle action. Not sure how to fix this on the 2nd gen IS, but the dealer should know.

As for supension noise, you can drive around over bumps and stuff all day long, and even if you reproduce the noise, it's almost impossible to pinpoint the actual location. You need to get the car up on jacks or a hoist and work the supension parts at each wheel to really find it. Most likely the dealer isn't going to go to that much trouble.

Maybe the tech just doesn't want to take the time to do it. It seems many of the IS cars come with the headlights aimed too low. If you follow the measuring and aiming instructions in the attached PDF, you may be pleasantly surprised. Headlight_aim.pdf

I don't think it's all that simple or practical to do. Of course you could ask a dealer's shop foreman and find out for sure.

That's the first thing to do at the first sign of any problem and it's the first step in the instructions, I believe.

You can adjust your own headlights.

Sometimes something metallic falls into the cig lighter socket and shorts it out. One guy found a dime in his. So be sure and check the fuse in the drivers kick panel first. Sometimes the whole lighter socket pulls up when the ligher is removed, and the wires underneath get unplugged. Here's a pic of how to pull up the shifter panel so you can see under the lighter. the chrome ring around your shifter is easy to remove, just stick a flat tool between the chrome ring and the plastic console and pry, I used a thin butter knife. the ring is connected and a part of the bottom of shelf, so the lighter and its components are attached- as well as the light components for the ashtray, this is the whole bottom shelf for the cubby. had to turn the car on and shift into d (while holding the brakes) to completely remove the ring/shelf assembly http://my.is/forums/f90/dissecting-interio...nt-pics-117217/

First thing you need is to check out that area real good. That's a really low price for a house in good shape with that square footage.

The engine tapping noise is the high pressure fuel pump for the direct injectors. All the IS350's do that. As for the suspension if you want to check it yourself put the car up on jack stands. Then one by one take your hydraulic jack and move each wheel up and down through its full travel. You may find that one of them is making the noise. When you find that one, you are there close enough to possibly pinpoint the location of the noise, and then fix it.

That works.

Lexol is liquid and won't leave residue or gum up. http://www.superiorcarcare.net/lx1212.html

I was actually going to post this same topic, but you beat me to it! I have the same problem in the same place (my interior is also black). Upon close examination, it doesn't look like the existing scuff marks can be cleaned or rubbed out. It appears that the plastic is actually damaged or slightly worn down. I've tried using Armor All and similar products, but the marks are still there. I'm only hoping that these products will help prevent future scuffs since there will be less friction when my foot drags against the door. bartkat, what exactly is Lexol? Is it substantially different from Armor All or is it a similar product? Is it only available at a Lexus dealership? I got a Lexol kit (not related to Lexus) based on recommendations from other owners. It has a leather cleaner, a leather conditioner, and a plastic/vinyl cleaner and conditioner. I like it because it doesn't add shine to surfaces and is supposed to be better for the materials than Armorall. I also use it on all the rubber seals under the hood, around the doors, and around the trunk every 6 months to keep them from drying out. Here's the kit I got. http://www.superiorcarcare.net/lx1212.html

IS models are made at two plants. You can tell which one by the VIN. Also your link didn't work for me.

They are really trying to sock it to you with their fuzzy math. Even if they sold the car at invoice plus transportation and real costs, they would still get the dealer holdback, so they still make a profit. There's no way you should be paying that. When I bought my IS350 the day of the model introduction, they didn't try to add in any of that stuff.