khhoang

Thanks for the carstereohelp.com link tho.. very helpful remove/install instructions with pics

are you planning to change the springs and strut mounts too? i'm planning a suspension upgrade myself mainly bc i'm still riding on the original and also i'm hearing the clunking sound in the rears (more noticeable in this colder weather). my ride is alittle rough over bumps but i'm not bouncing around. i agree, a worn Lexus suspension still rides rather decent on my 95.

There are many threads discussing the why or why nots of replacing a single torn CV boot vs replacing both front axles. Both are pretty much the same labor time. Replacing both axles ensures that both CV boots are also replaced and both sides wear and tear evenly under normal driving conditions after the service. I had both of my front axles replaced due to a torn boot for approx. $400p&l at Firestone. Lexus wanted approx. $300 to replace just that torn boot. Hope that helps.

mine holds securely also for REGULAR-sized cups or soda cans. I can see a problem if you're trying to fit odd shaped bottles or super-sized cups. I think most people are complaining that you cannot have both the cupholders and ashtray opened at the same time and have them conveniently functional which is my case since I have a radar detector.

The dogbone mount (aka strut torque mount) looks like what the name implies.. a dog bone. On my 95ES and probably the same for 92-96ES's, the dogbone is right beside the 3 top strut bolts on the passenger-side of the engine. Can't tell you where it is in other model yrs bc I don't know. I'm sure others can chime in and tell you where it is in the 99ES. As for the emergency brakes, it's just a suggestion. This may help: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ergency++brakes BTW, I edited my original post to include "jerky shift from Park to Drive/Reverse to Park" so not to confuse anyone with jerky shifting problems while driving.

My RPM is also alittle higher by couple 100s before and after waiting a minute or two probably due to the colder weather but it's nothing to alarm me. I've been having the jerky shift from Park to Drive/Reverse to Park for some time now and it's due to a torn dogbone mount (and that is due to a bad front motor mount). Waiting on parts to arrive to change those out. Check your dogbone mount. Also, using your emergency brakes may help the jerkiness. Hope that helps.

WOW , i'ld be too afraid to drive it esp with all the 18wheelers and school buses in my route to from work.

would you recommend changing the strut mounts also while they're at it with the struts and springs for a 95 ES with all original suspension parts?

have you tried changing the battery out of the key fob? do both master keys have difficulty remote locking/unlocking? sounds like a weak key fob battery. for my remote starter: once engine started, unlock doors with remote.. close door & put key in and turn to ON position.. then press on brake pedal.. then ur good togo. (has to be in that specific order)

timing belt/water pump ($500-$800p&l) oil leaks (depends where it's leaking) brakes/rotors shocks/struts ALL fluid conditions

I had my remote starter installed at Bestbuy and it's more to the tune of $150 (not $50 ur thinking) installation charge. I chose Bestbuy bc it's also lifetime warranty on labor as long you own the car and also you can take the car to any Bestbuy store if there are any problems. But you want to find a veteran experienced installer not some kid working there for the discounts. I've never had any engine problems using the remote starter for the few years I've had it. One advice against the remotes with all the cool little lcd graphics tho.. be prepared to have a spare AAA battery around. Nothing like being locked out of your car with a cartful of groceries due to a drained battery on your cool lcd remote..

Sorry for bringing up an old thread.. but What's recommended for lubing the (rear) sway bar endlinks? I'm having the annoying clunking noises described by TJB who made the thread and want to try the lubing before changing out parts (endlinks then struts&strut mounts). Thanks in advance.

post edited.. sure if you keep adding oil then of course you wont drive dry. but what if you dont keep adding oil and your engine goes dry or too low, would that cause mechanical failures in the engine? personally i would recommend solving the leak problem asap rather than adding a quart every week or so and dragging it out. i agree, you can drive around for months with an oil leak(s) but at a cost in the long run.

lol i agree.. i would think twice about going back to these people. find yourself a shop who knows what they're doing.. and saying!

me too (but 35% on mine, didnt feel like paying a ticket for lower%)

Hi, you should read my post on 2nd page in "Pinned: Tells Us About Your Car And Its Mods Or Problems" about parts and labor costs of FRONT & REAR Lexus vs. independent mech valve cover gaskets (yes, there is a rear VC gasket in the ES) and PCV valve (and while they're at it, fuel filter & spark plugs). To my knowledge, engine light will NOT come on for a clogged/failed PCV valve. A clogged PCV (a $7 part & DIY change) will cause the potential for oil leaks, i.e. thru VC gaskets, rear main seal, etc. Cosmetic-wise your engine will look very ugly due to the oil leak and sooner or later your driveway also. Good luck!

You Know You Are A 1st Time Lexus Owner When... you try cranking the car a couple times with no success, perplexly scratch your head, then realize the car is already idling..

how can we forget this one ArmyofOne ;) .. change your PCV valve if its still using the original. At 90K miles, it's overdue for a change.

Since you had your rear valve cover gasket replaced due to an oil leak, the oil leak you are now seeing may be just oil residue that wasn't cleaned off the lower areas of the engine after the valve cover gasket job. Are you actually seeing the leaking/dripping of oil under the car, i.e. seeing fresh oil drops on the ground/driveway? You can try an engine degreasing to clean off the area for better visual inspection. As mentioned, rear main seal is a suspect (Lexus quoted me est. $665p&l rear main seal) and its a huge job. I obviously had F&R valve cover gasket leaks on my 95ES and Lexus also said rear main seal leaked too but I only changed the valve cover gaskets and never the main seal. Oil leak problem solved!

Thanks Bob for the good info! and yes it is the front motor mount under the oil filter. I've been told by Lexus that both dogbone and frnt motor mounts need changing. Couple more questions if you dont mind, 1. was there anything on top of the engine, i.e. intake hose, other mounts, etc, that needs to be loosened or temporarily unattached to prevent any stress/breakage when the engine is jacked up high enough. 2.Does the dogbone mount stays off while changing the front mount or can it be changed at any time (I've read that the front motor mount may be suspect of constant torn dogbone mount). Looks like a DIY project.. Thanks again!

As mentioned, an aftermarket amp (esp 60Wx4) will most likely blow all your stock speakers when you pump up the volume. If I remember correctly but don't quote me on this, the stock amp in my 95ES only pushes 30W rms. You want loud crisp sound improvement in what frequencies, all around hi, mid, lows? I find my stock amp&speakers adequate&crisp in hi&mid but the lows(bass) were lacking. To remedy this, I installed a single 12in sub in sealed box with its own 1-2way amp (signal can be wired off rear 6x9 speakers if you're keeping the stock radio unit). If you want sound improvements all-around, then you're gonna have to upgrade 4 (most likely the 2 doors&2 rear) speakers with the aftermarket 4way amp and rewire everything.. as mentioned that can eat a $1000 hole in your pocket. Whatever you do, I highly recommend buying the extended warranty for the aftermarket speakers bc it will pay off itself the first time ur speakers blow ur fault or not. Also, consider purchasing somewhere, ie. Bestbuy/CircuitCity, that have free installations included. Goto a store's car audio setup like Bestbbuy and listen to what ur looking for.. car audio improvement is limitless (and depends how deep ur pocket is).

Hey Lex3486, are you still around in the forum? Can you update us on this thread about changing the front motor mount? Is this a DIY? If so, any advices in detail? If not, where you have it done and how much was labor? I'm in need to do this mount replacement and the dogbone (which i can do myself but need to do the front mount first). I found an eBay seller selling the dogbone($24) and front mount($44) for dirt cheap, brand new and all. Update us asap.. thanks!

1995 ES300 purchased on 8/1998 at Lexus dealership non-CPO w/ 47k miles (@$19.9K w/ 2 yrs extended warranty) _35% tint (local legal limit) on 6/99 @$140, K&N filter installed on ??/99 _CEL comes on&off on 9/99 at Lexus (code for shift solenoid-possibly going bad) @$65 diag check Advised to continue driving until CEL stays on consistently _Replaced starter on 11/00 DIY @$160 after core trade-in Autozone _New windshield on 4/02 @FREE insurance covered, deductible covered by windshield shop :D (something metal on the oncoming lane smacked the windshield while driving home from work ) _CEL again on 4/02 code P0770/P0773 at Lexus (replaced shift lock E transmission solenoid at Lexus) @$444 ($126solenoid&gasket+$32ATF fluid change+$252labor) _Bent antenna mast after drive-thru carwash on 10/02 @$104 ($58parts+$38labor) Didnt start reading LOC until 10/04 :chairshot: _Replaced timing belt,water pump,antifreeze,drive belts,&alternator belt on 8/03 at Lexus @$800 ($250parts+$525labor) 131K miles at time of change :whistles: _All-around new pads&rotors and both half-shaft front axles relpaced on 8/03 at Firestone @$861 ($500parts+$324labor) Lexus wanted $840p&l pads&rotors, $270p&l torn left frt axle boot _Installed Alpine CDA9811 MP3 head unit (tired of going to trunk to change cds & bulbs/LCD going out in radio unit) on 12/03, single 12in sub in bandpass box w/ Kenwood amp on 3/04 (rear 6x9s were weak in bass), 2-way Polk Momo 6.5 door speakers (Xmas gift), 2-way FM remote start alarm system (will coexist w/ factory alarm) on 10/03 _CEL again on 3/04 (P1035 O2 Bank1Sensor1) at Lexus @$280 ($146part+$121labor) Next time www.sparkplugs.com $90 DIY! Asked them to check sources of oil leaks after seeing minor droplets on driveway (gave est. $555 F&R valve cover gaskets, $665 rear main seal - DECLINED) After inspection they also gave me a list of maintenance jobs to be considered. _Due to oil leak changed F&R valve cover gaskets and also fuel filter, PCV valve, spark plugs(OEM platinums) at independent mech shop on 10/04 @$340 ($92parts+$236labor) Read above what Lexus wanted.. No more leaks, rear main seal never leaked!! avg 300 miles/12gal refill Chevron 93octane as of 12/04 _CEL again after valve cover gasket job while driving car home <_< code P0401 (insufficient EGR flow) Replaced EGR air flow/temp sensor @$180part free labor by same mech shop Problem solved!! (See thread) _Oil changed every 4-5kmiles w/ Castro Syntec before valve cover gasket job.. now back to dino Valvaline MaxLife after job. Switched to Mobil 1 synthetic every 6-7kmiles on 11/04 (Toyota oem oil filter) _Installed cabin air filter DIY 10/04 @$45 www.lexus-parts.com (new info $35 www.sparkplugs.com) _Added SSilverstars (formerly used CoolBLues) & front strut bar on 11/04 DIY _Transmission service (pan dropped,filter cleaned,fluid changed) @$60p&l on 12/04 _Changed dogbone&front motor mounts (completed on 12/04 @$150parts) no more hard shifting/clunking R-N-D _Motorvac/fuel inj & throttle body cleaning (completed on 12/04 @$85) _Replaced bulbs in hvac (completed Lextech.org on 1/05) _New struts/springs all around (KYB struts&mounts/Eibach Prokit & 4wheel alignment on 1/05 @ $260labor) _XenonDepot HID kit installed DIY 4/05 _Wet-sanded my yellowed headlights on 5/05 (1500grit sandpaper, 3M rubbing compound, Meguiars PlastX then wax). Meguiars PlastX will offer a temporary 3-4weeks solution if done alone. _CEL on 8/09 (P1031 O2 Bank1Sensor1) Denso 234-4622 $51.60 shipped & also changed dogbone torque engine mount again ($35 local Advance Autoparts) - both DIY install. OD = ~235,000 mi _2nd timing belt, water pump, cam and crankshaft seals replaced @$580p&l Paul's Automotive on 9/6/2011 Alternator replaced @$133part after core exchange and $80labor Paul's Automotive on 9/6/2011 Mileage of car @~267,000 THINGS TO DO: _Replace sway bar bushings _Transmission fluid drain&fill _Antifreeze flush/drain&fill (12/05) _Power steering & brake fluids siphon&refill

Southern AL guy here where cost of living is low.. they changed my timing belt, water pump, alternator belt, vane pump belt,&anitfreeze at my one and only one Lexus dealership Total cost = approx $800 ($250parts+$525labor). IMO, your estimate for timing belt change is reasonable. This was done in 8/03 on my 95ES300 w/ 131k miles at the time. :whistles: :) Yes, i could have got it done cheaper but i dont know any independent mechanic to trust them with this job.

yes, there's an OBD2 port inside that fuse box i mentioned. Autozone checked my code there. i also have an 95ES. just mention your car is 96+ (theyre not aware that 94&95ES's are OBD2 compliant and has the port also) and have them look for the port there.