khhoang

Hey Paul, FYI, next time get your check engine light code diagnosed for FREE at your local Autozone store. They will say they can only scan year 96+ vehicles but your 95ES (like mine) has the OBD2 port in the fuse box right beside the hood open lever. That would have saved you the dealerships $80fee <_< and also open up opportunities to check around for cheaper parts/labor prices (i.e. Toyota dealership).

Yes, Autozone will tell you that they can only scan 96+ vehicles but my Lexus is a 95 (OBD2 also) and it has the correct plug that they can scan it also. Your 94 might have the correct plugup too. Just tell them it's a 96 and have them try searching for the plugup (it's in the fuse box right beside the hood open lever in my 95). You have nothing to lose except a couple of minutes of their time. Most likely you have a faulty sensor somewhere (maybe an O2 sensor considering your car year). Else, you may have to pay for the diagnostic check (approx. $45-60 at an independant mech shop, an arm at the stealership). Post the code and any description back on the thread and someone here will tell you the possible problem areas. Good Luck!

that's interesting steviej.. mine does just the opposite.. drops like a rock to half tank then slowly drops to empty. go figure

I have a bad habit of breaking this rule :chairshot: But that will change now after reading this thread. Fillup before last my car drove 400 city miles mostly to and from work (that's from full tank to the point where the needle hits E but fuel light not coming on yet). Last fillup I drove 380 city miles. I use Chevron's 87octane (used to use 89octane) 90% of the times with no engine knocks. I'm sure my city traffic isn't as bad as the big city folks here but still I guess my car is doing well in mpg. :D What perplexes me is the fuel gauge reading in the cluster. After filling up with gas and driving only about 60miles, the needle drops to 3/4 tank. It seems to drop in this manner but not linearly until the needle reaches E. Considering I have a recently tuned-up 95ES, how accurate is this feul gauge?

A local Firestone tire center changed both of my front axles (new half shafts @ $74.99/ea) with labor cost @ $144. Total was $293.98. I had a torn left front axle boot and Lexus dealership wanted $267p&l to change that boot alone. I've heard that replacing a torn boot is too time consuming esp if they also have to decontaminate/clean the CV joints and if you're paying for labor that is where it's gonna hurt. Also, CV joints could already have suffered some damage. For older cars like my 95ES I went ahead and replaced both axles so they would wear evenly under normal driving conditions. Well, this reply is for your price comparison. If there is any comment on what I should have done differently, I would like to learn more about my car. Thanks and good luck!

The cel came on while I was driving the car home after picking it up from service. I checked the various small hoses around the intake and ERG to see and hear if any of them have gotten loose or leaking air. But they all seem normal. The tube that I mentioned that was duct taped is the actual intake tube. The accordian-looking rubber part nearest the intake manifold was the part that someone has duct taped. I do not know who has taped this but just saying I just now noticed it while checking the engine. <_< Last night with the engine idling in park I tried twisting, squeezing, pulling, pushing etc the intake tube to see if there is any effect on the idle or hear any leaks but none noticed. The idle is running fine and smooth. The car is definitely running better after the service (new spark plugs, fuel filter,&pcv vlave) but just this cel is annoying. SK is right.. they must remove the intake manifold to replace the rear VC gasket. The ERG is bolted onto the manifold. For my information, how much does a new factory intake tube cost? Obviously it is craked since it is taped up. I will let them install that new sensor to see if it solves the problem but will ask what credit I will get if it doesn't. It's an $80 little sensor which they're going to install for free. I believe what Army implied as a "common problem" is that if the mechanic didn't reinstall my hoses correctly the cel will come on. That's definitely an obvious problem. A motorvac system cleanup is on my things-to-do list, next to changing light bulbs on the AC control unit and changing motor mounts.

Hi again, can someone post the probable causes for the CEL P0401 EGR insufficient flow code? I have been reading posts for more information and similar problems wrt the EGR. The service shop who changed my VC gaskets seems confident that it is an EGR "air flow" (maybe a temperature) sensor that needs to be replaced. Anyways the part is on order and they will install it for me for free. They pointed out to me where it is and it seems easy to change. This will be done early next week and hopefully it will solve the P0401 problem. If not, I'm taking my bussiness elsewhere (maybe Toyota dealership). But in the meantime I want to check other possible areas. Also, I just noticed that the someone have duck taped the accordian-looking black air flow tube that comes from the MAF into the intake manifold. If this tube was leaking again or cracked at a different location, could this cause the P0401 code? Is duck-taping this tube a recommended fix? I have read in one of last years thread that this was suggested by one of the gurus here to remedy a P0402 EGR excessive air flow problem. Thanks, Khiem

Hi ALL, my first post/reply but I have been reading the forums all month for suggestions & enlightenment. Just last week I had my f&r valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, fuel filter and spark plugs changed all at one time (mainly bc of the leaking gaskets). Cost me $330 total at an outside mechanic shop. While driving home the check engine light came on. Took the car back to them and they say it has an EGR air flow sensor prroblem (didn't ask for the code).. $180 to fix it. I called Lexus dealership and they say I don't have that sensor in my 95 ES300. ??? Took the car to Autozone and they say it's the P0401 EGR Insufficient flow code. Autozone suggested I try cleaning the EGR valve first before installing a new one. My question is, could the mechanic shop who worked on my gaskets caused the EGR valve problem or is it a common problem after changing VC gaskets? Thanks for your replies.