lenore

Debris is unacceptable. I have been getting window tint from an independent that does the dealership cars, and his work is always perfect. He would re do the job if not done correctly. Tell the dealer it is time for a second chance and get them to do it right...

this site has the info under how to change a instrument light.... http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/index.html

YOu could probably get one on Ebay thru the recyclers...And it only takes about fifteen minutes to change. However your battery may be defunct.

Did you look in your owners manuals for the warranty info on the Emissions controls (including the Charcoal canistor) It may be covered but I am not sure. Some where I have heard it is covered for 7 years and 100k miles...

Toyota Type IV can be found at any Toyota dealership. Another substitute is AMsoil Transmission fluid.

My original did not have the wire mesh, The car was manufactured in September of 1998. But the replacement is a accordian inside the wire mesh.

I woud call them and tell them in no uncertain terms, politely of course that you the customer feel that this should be complimentary, as it only takes a few minutes and you were nice enough to give them business, especially since other dealerships and give these posts as reference do give that courtesy.

I hope you dont take us negatively, Yes many of us joined this forum for problems, but alas I have grown to enjoy this forum and the people in it. Every product out their has problems, and this forum gives us the ability to complain. I lost my transmission on my RX (yes first year model) but I love the car. I just am dissapointed with Lexus and their lack of support for my problem. But in the meantime I have learned and saved lots of dollars by the tips and maintenance procedures that people have shared. I invite you to continue with this forum as well as CLub Lexus which also has a great forum. The knowledge base learned here will save you a lot of time and money (which can be spent on nice dinners) as well as not being so ignorant when approaching your dealership service departments....They in many cases talk you down thinking you know nothing other than how to put gas in the car...Welcome aboard, continue, by the way my son has also bought the ES350 2007 and very much so loves his car. Hey if problems arise, you will hear them here first, and sometimes that annyoying little problem that you ignored will be shared with others for the benefit of everyone....Have a great day Tom

Actually the aftermarket flex coupling is a better design, has a wire mesh covering and has been in my car for 5 years with no problems. Do agree though check the dog bone engine mount, it is on top of the engine to the firewall.

You can get the struts from this outfit. You do not need the springs unless they are broken or damaged, most just replace the strut and upper mount http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptab...=&brand=all

That sounds like drive shaft problem. The joints are loose...When you turn the wheel right the right hand drive shaft is compressed and the left hand drive shaft is expanded, expecially if the bearing carriers are worn...Just wanted to tell you though that when I changed my left drive shaft it had some play when I rocked the wheel and held the inner most point next to the transaxle, but it did not fix the problem. By the way I got the Drive shaft from NAPA for under $100 with a lifetime guarantee..

Karl K nailed it, and for some reason the RX just has one of those strange quircks about the clock resetting....Many of us have been there and the Battery is the fix....Get one from Costco or Walmart your pick and you will be happy afterwards...

Your warranty says suspension bushings, I would call the Upper mounts part of the suspension bushings, but that is just me. there was an improvement in the upper mount to supposedly make them more reliable, I bought mine at NAPA auto parts and got a lifetime warranty on them with a AAA discount they cost around $60 apiece. Installation should not be any more than replaciing the Struts on your car ( I did it myself ) and any independent mechanic should be able to. As for any danger, well it could fail and cause the strut to become loose, but that would have to be extremely worn. Most of the time they just make noise when going over bumps. I would push the warranty first, and if not successful, then buy the things from NAPA and take them to your favorite mechanic....by the way you can buy them with and without the pivot bearing, for some reason they were cheaper with the bearing at NAPA.

probably the flex coupling coming down from the exhaust manifold to the front of the converter. The flex cracks and makes things kind of noisy. I suggest you go to a muffler shop. I did and they put in a new flex joint for around $100 total...which is a lot cheaper than the stealership would charge. if not the flex the spring loaded coupling in front of the catalytic converter that has a gasket that leaks, The gasket is spared and can be replaced.

No I have not resolved the problem, the car now has 145k miles and the sound is no louder and the vibration is still intermitant. Wish i had money to throw at it but things are a little tight right now. I suspect next will be suspension parts or the center bearing support going to the rear differential (AWD) I changed the left drive shaft up front but that was not it...Weird noise and vibration and changes with the weather, worse when it is cold....maybe rubber getting stiff????

Maybe you could take the nuts out and put bolts in with wing nuts facing upward. I dont know, because I dont have a rX330 but maybe that could be done.

or you can get a set of disk (high performance from here) for $192 a set http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...4294967024+6854

Thank you and please file a complaint the the NHTSA Board online. You will need your vin # on your car...It adds to the data base of failures of Transmissions on the RX300...Wish you could luck, but dont leap into the BMW before doing your homework...The German cars are not what they used to be...

If it is still acting up then the tranny shop did a bad job, if there is a warranty make them fix it. I had Lexus install a tranny and the first one was bad. Took 5 visits, but they finally replaced it again...problem fixed. Also you said tranny shop did they use Toyota Type IV fluid? If not Amsoil? No other fluid is proper....

Excessive HC results from ignition misfire or misfire do to excessively lean or rich air /fuel mixtures excessive CO results from rich air/fuel mixtures excessive NOx results from excessive combustion temperatures I would replace the pcv valve (probably less than $8) Have the MAF sensor cleaned Put a fuel cleaner like Techron in the tank and see if it cleans the injectors. clean the IACV (position sensor) All of this is on this site (info) Mine were CO2 15.0 at idle 14.8 at 2500 rpm HC 18 17 CO .01 .00 The bank 1 and 2 oxygen sensors would be last...

How many miles on it and did you get the car warmed up to normal before the test? My 99RX just passed with flying colors. I would make sure the oil is new, clean the MAF sensor, and other than that maybe the O2 sensors are bad...

see this location;;; they have all kinds of useful info including how to change plugs. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/index.html

time to ellevate this issue, talk to the general manager and drive a loaner of equivalent year and car and drive it for a week and see if it has the same issue, if so, then get a refund and move on... If they cant fix it than look at your lemon laws for your state.

sounds like the air control servo is not working. You could unhook the car battery for 10 minutes and reconnect and see if it fixes it, otherwise one of the servos is hung up...

might be the drain holes are clogged for the sunroof....I am assuming you might have a sun roof, otherwise, forget it.