lenore

I put the new sensors on last Sunday a week ago and no problems until tonight. Again, it has driven better than ever until I put it in reverse when I was coming home tonight. When I was backing up it started lunging a little. I got the sensors from a local parts store. Did that come back to bite me....? Sensors from a local parts store most likely come from the same manufacturer, so I wouldn't expect a problem with them. Maybe it's time to try a flush or a couple of drain and fills in succession to remove the "compatible"?? fluid. If I go the drain and fill route should I do one each day,every few days or every few weeks? Are there directions on this site for that? Here it is:http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220061

try here, I did and am very satisfied: http://www.tcodesoftware.com/carkeyshells.html

I have a 99 RX owned since new, used synthetic blend until 100k miles and have 154k miles presently. Use full synthetic Castrol Oil 0-30w now.. Mine uses no oil between changes (3k to 4K) Most japanese engines use little or no oil between changes. Either the rings werent seated properly or engine has bad valve stem seals. This can be hard to determine as the Catalytic converter is so hot it can burn the oil residue off for a long time before it fails....I would say the engines are sludged and the dealers are lying...

Sounds like a tranmission failure, unless the engine is running rough and the OD will not work if so.

wouldnt recommend it on a high mileage car. Do several drain and refills. within a short period of time... much safer.

That is crazy, The water pump should be fine well past 150k miles...No that is typical stealership. I would run away from that service department. They are looking for your walllet....

The planetary gear let loose in mine, I was two states away going across the salt flats in Utah. Be warned that the dealership is very expensive, I see you are on CLub Lexus also. I drove back to Salt lake city and Lexus tried a flush, no good, said it was OK to drive to California. Drove home on three gears with crappy gas mileage. I was at exactly 100k miles. Since I have added a external tranny filter and am considering moving the tranny cooler to the front of the car. I also am thinking to moving to AMSOIL synthetic fluid which might withstand the higher temps.

Yes it did have the first three gears, and yes I did take it to the dealership hoping that they would give me a break, but no, since I did the three tranny fluid changes myself (every 30k) they broke my wallet instead. (4300) . If you had the vehicle serviced at Lexus for its life, than go in and ask for a good will replacement, some have just payed labor and it ended up being around $1700 total. but if you didnt have the total Lexus service, than find a good reliable tranny shop... dont forget to fille a complaint with Lexus of AMerica and the NHTSB online. The numbers keep rising with the failures. I hope yours is not failed and has a bad solenoid or something. Does the engine run rough? Because if it does it will not go into fourth gear, just shooting from the dark.... Some have had bad knock sensors when this happens...Good luck

I just used these folks, worked great. http://www.tcodesoftware.com/carkeyshells.html

It indicates Shift Solenoid D, however, that is exactly how my transmission indicated when it failed...Drop the pan and see if you have excessive debris (metal filings) in the pan on the magnets. I hope you dont but the gears failed in mine causing contanmination in the valve body assembly which prevented the solenoid from actuating. Dont bother with a flush, I did and it did nothing. I hope it is just a solenoid failure, but I wouldnt bet on it. Good luck.

Read this: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220061

Well, my $262 actuator failed again only after 4 1/2 years. I bought a pair of lock actuators on ebay for $13.99 delivered to my house. Installed one today, I forgot how tight it was to replace the lock mechanism last time. My original actuator arm didnt have a hole, but a open slot. I had to drill a hole through the arm and used a paper clip to tie the actuator rod to that slot. the actuator solenoid motor is mounted like the picture in the earlier post, but position is important in that it can hit the window channel if positioned wrong. All said and done, it works, thanks for the great pictures. I have a spare solenoid for future failures...Cost less than $15. Here is an example of the actuators: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...p3756.m14.l1318

There is a huge amount of posts on tranny problems, Please note maintenance, maintenance , maintenance, every 15k miles a fluid drain and fill may help....Just my two cents from one that has been there and most vocal about the failures...

Corrosion on the spring in the coil pack to the plug would cause arcing and possible coil pack failure. Did you wash the engine with water recently? Moisture buildup in the plug hole could cause the corrosion...

here is the thread I have used, it does work, but the volume has to be turned up on my Sandisk E250, read the entire thread and learn... http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...ux+in+for+RX300

Try here: http://www.tcodesoftware.com/carkeyshells.html I will give feed back this week, I ordered mine Sunday, they were sent out and I am waiting for the mail...

Heck, knock out the bottle of bottled water everyday, and you break even...or those $4 coffees at your favorite shop, and wow you are really ahead....

could be the blower motor control relay..or the blower resistor (not dead sure it has this I am looking at a Haynes book)

Spark plugs at 60k???? Doesnt the 330 use iridium plugs like the RX300? They should be good for an easy 100k if they are iridium. As for the service, yea, its a rip...Do as above check a Toyota service cost.

If you want to see the wild side, go to a Ford Truck site: They are the most obnoxious bunch ever, If it isnt Motorcraft, Ford, etc. you are dead meat. Quite frankly the world is not a friendly place, from my years of experience I always treat folks correctly, but get over it and get some thick skin....Build a bridge and get over it....

Looks like to me you can replace the clutch seperatly, however if the shaft seal is leaking you will need a compressor. Probably best access is through the wheel well with the cover removed...

Try disconnecting the battery and wait 10 minutes and reconnect and then try the switch...try this. from another forum Got back from the dealer. It seems you have to hold down the sunroof button in and wait for the sunroof to do a complete cycle (open/close). Hope this information will help someone else in the future.

there is always a drain for the clock and the door ecu for monitoring the security and unlock features. If the car sits for extended periods (weeks) than the battery probably could go low...maybe a trickle solar charger would stop it, however the cigarette lighter is switched on the RX and probably the ES....

Here is Honda fuel cell article: http://world.honda.com/news/2008/4080113Ne...ion-Green-Cars/