UCF3

there's usually a connection for XM and iPOD in the back of new OEM Radios. Aftermarket XMs may have another display.

I did mine through the dealer about three years ago. Labour rates have gone up since then, so I'd get a price quote.

Are you adding Gold where it doesn't belong? ;) :)

It's most likely the head unit. It might be out. I had the same problem with the LS, and I had to replace the entire unit. It cost me $350 w/labour.

Are you using any of the High-mileage Oils or are you using Mobil 1 5w30? If you're not using the High-mileage stuff, I would recommend using Slick 50 or having the block rebuilt if needed. It is possible the TP Sensor is defective, but in most cases I've come across the Check Engine light appears. Are there any Error codes on display? It's also possible the EGR might be on it's way out.

I'm kind of curious about what you guys think about tuner-parts and performance upgrades for the LS430s. If you bought a 04-05 LS would you upgrade the suspension, brakes, HP and Torque and so on or would you keep the cars' as is?

It sounds like the cable might need to be replaced, soon. I'd clean the contact points on both the bulbs and connectors first. If you're not successful, depress the brake pedal, and dangle the bulbs and cable. The idea is to force it blow out due to bad connection and going over bumps at high speeds. Work your way up the cables to connection points(clean) until you reach the fuse and ECU. It took me a while to find the problem on my SC, but now my Indicator doesn't come on. Good luck

It flashes whenever something is wrong with the circuit. It's likely not to flash since you have a failed evaporator, not a break in the circuit. THat's why kamiveone light is flashing. You should consider replacing the evaporator.

Well, you could always get the DOT Legal ones. If you live in the LA area, Clearcorners.com can make you a good DOT legal/True HID System. It's not cheap.

Yeah, he's too new. -------- ElSupremo: I'll send Pioneersuby a message on your behalf to visit this thread.

I can get them through my source @ Lexus. It may not be cheap, but they're OEM. Are you sure it's the Wheel Sensors and not something else? UCF3LOC@netscape.net ---------------------- Are there any Aftermarket Wheel sensors?

I'm also experiencing the same problem with my 94 LS. I'm still not sure what's causing the problem, but I'm leaning towards a hesitation in Air Flow. Either the ECU can't compute the increase in air when we press the throttle, or the air-fuel ratio has changed.

BlueViol: <_< Have you dealt with VFTbushes before? Any idea how much the repair kit costs? ---- The cheapest New OEMs I'm coming across costs about $800-900 for the pair. :cries: If anybody comes across another cheaper solution, my ears are wide open.

Eddiem Writes: "I'M NEW AT THIS SO THIS MAY BE A DUMB QUESTION BUT SHOULD I EXPECT A MORE FIRM RIDE FROM THE 17 IN VS THE 16 IN WHEELS? AND IF SO WHY IS LEXUS MOVING TOWARD THE LARGER WHEELS?" Eddiem: Please do not click on the Report to Moderator feature, unless you want one of us to look at something. Also, please comment without the Caps Lock on. Thanks ----------- You should expect a firmer ride using 17" rims and tires. In my opinion, the manufacturers are switching to the larger diametre wheel and tire combos because, the wheels look better, and better ride quality on good roads(Less pott-holes). If you live in a city where there is a lot of construction and the weather has destroyed the roads, i'd stick with your 16s. Less likely you'll damage your rim and tire.

Arsvivendi Writes: "Thanks for Quick response. I just wonder changing timimg belt and water pump for $1200 is reasonable cost from factory dealer? or I should check with local service shop for lower cost." It would be a better idea for you to check out other Toyota Specialists around town. I've come across specialists charging $600-800 for this service. I would definitely buy genuine Toyota/Lexus parts though. By the way, please visit the Visitors and New Members Forum for instructions on how to reply to Threads. Thanks' UCF3

If you're interested to getting information for your car, then paying Alldatadiy.com is a good investment. You're not a shop, so looking up information on other vehicles isn't worth your time.

and now im lost by your reply for example, im lookng at this car http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_...lor=&cardist=18 it has the gold badges, i want silver im wondering if there are any places that sell the silver emblems and im wondering if its possible to remove the emblems and install new ones successfully I'd be more concerned with the condition of the vehicle than the gold trim. Besides Gold on a black car is kind of nice. There are couple of places you could look for the Chrome trim. 1) I can get a kit for you. (If you're interested in that, Private message me, i'll get a price quote) 2) Mike at Lextasy can get you some as well. http://www.lextasy.com/chrome_lexus_emblems_1349_prd1.htm

Yes the SC3s timing belt is a Non-Interference engine. I can't really tell how long your timing belt will last. I would suggest checking the records of the car. See how long until the next service. You can also inspect the belt yourself; look at the marking on the belt (gone or still exists; date on it), coarseness of the belt, dress it if necessary,a nd so on. I would also check out the other drive belts. They're likely to break before the timing belt.

I'm a little lost. What does buying the SC3/4 have to do with gold Emblems? When you buy your car and you see gold trim on it, just replace them with silver or black emerald.

Interesting :)

High 10's? <_< I thought the Stock Supra TT was running mid to Low 13s?

I replaced my OEM Shocks for Tokicos. Right now my ride is very floaty, and I hit my head on the roof a couple of times. I miss my OEM shocks. :cries:

Welcome to the club. Here's my questions to you. Was your car ever in an accident, and is one of the beams(driver's side light) is blown?

VB: Sorry man, I have to disagree, 10W won't worsen your fuel economy in any way. I'm running 10W on my SC, and the only difference I can really see, is the oil returns to the pan slower than on my LS. VMF's recommendation of switching to 10W isn't a really bad one. THe thicker Viscosity will keep your engine parts lubed longer, but it's really not needed if your engine isn't leaking anywhere. I believe Mobil 1 should be offering a High-Mileage Synthetic blend very soon, if not already. I'd recommend that, but not absolutely necessary. Now I change my oil every 6k, and as the company I work for recommends don't keep your oil sitting in the pan for more than 5 months(Idle/not-driven). It will become thick and gritty, and it may cause the engine to stall.

well, luckily he won't have to worry about the car breaking down anytime soon. ;) So why is your next car going to be a Mazda? Why not an Infiniti or an Acura, or even an American Auto? --------------- Yeah those FX's are really nice, but I'd still preffer the GCPE w/6speed. Such a supurb automoble.